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NZ Herald
23-04-2025
- NZ Herald
Exploring Iceland, the Faroe Islands and Norway by cruise ship
After time in Reykjavik, our departure port, the ship sails around Iceland, stopping at three small communities along the coast. The journey continues to the seldom-visited Faroe Islands and deep into Norway's most majestic fjords, following ancient Viking sailing routes that once connected these cultures. Onboard the Viking Saturn It's only fitting that our ship is named the Viking Saturn. Viking Ocean Cruises offers a luxury, adult-focused cruising experience emphasising destination immersion and cultural enrichment. Their attention to detail was evident when I landed at 6.30am at the Reykjavik airport. On many cruises, you must wait until the afternoon to board. But a Viking representative met us upon arrival and whisked us to a buffet breakfast at the lovely Harpa Concert Hall in Reykjavik. We boarded the ship just a few hours later. Viking's mid-sized vessels (typically accommodating about 930 passengers) can access small ports that larger ships cannot. All staterooms have a veranda, meaning every cabin has a private balcony. The ships have Scandinavian-inspired designs with clean lines, light wood, and abundant natural light. I'm pleased to find that the spacious restroom in my stateroom has a heated floor. I especially like the calm, peaceful atmosphere onboard. There are many quiet nooks to escape with a book and large windows everywhere to capture the outside views. There are no casinos onboard, and while there is daily entertainment, the emphasis is comfort and destination rather than flashy activities. Another highlight is the spa. Its thermal suite, which includes a snow grotto, sauna, and hydrotherapy pool, is accessible to all passengers. Ísafjörður, Iceland After leaving Reykjavik, we arrive at the small village of Ísafjörður. Once a Viking trading post, it has a long tradition of fishing. Today, it's home to one of the largest fisheries in Iceland. On board, guests receive one complimentary excursion each day, but if you struggle to choose from the long list of great options, you can always purchase more. My friends and I join the guided tour of Ísafjörður and Bolungarvík, the northernmost village in the Westfjords. We visit the Ósvör Museum, a fascinating replica of an old fishing outpost. Fisherman Johann Hannibalsson, dressed in traditional garb, tells us about life in the past. Akureyri, Iceland Our next stop is Akureyri. Founded by a Viking leader in the 9th century, this small town is just 100km from the Arctic Circle. The must-see attraction in this region is the spectacular Waterfall of the Gods at Godafoss. Standing next to its roaring falls and viewing it from above is a memorable experience. One bucket-list activity I want to experience is soaking in one of Iceland's many geothermal hot springs. We get the chance to visit Myvatn Nature Baths that afternoon. Soaking in the milky blue waters surrounded by lava rock, it's easy to relax and savour the experience. Seydisfjordur, Iceland Our day in the tiny village of Seydisfjordur turns out to be a favourite. This community of 750 welcomes us with an invitation to their Viking Festival at the community centre. They serve us tasty bites prepared by a top local chef. Then, two local musicians perform. Afterwards, we shop at the craft market, where a small sign reads: 'We have made everything here with our own hands. Nothing is mass-produced but instead made with care by us.' Torshavn, Faroe Islands After a day at sea, we arrive at the mysterious Faroe Islands, which might just be Europe's best-kept secret. A remote autonomous territory of Denmark, the Faroe Islands consist of 18 islands. We visit the scenic capital of Torshavn. The islands receive a lot of rain, and tall green grass covers the landscape, including the roofs of many sod-roof houses. The population of 53,650 mainly speaks Faroese, the island's unique North Germanic tongue. Though it's Sunday when we arrive, some shops are open for us. After some shopping, my friends and I take Viking's Scenic Vistas and Coastal Villages bus tour. The skies swirl with dramatic clouds, which only sharpen the green grasses and blue coastal waters. It's like driving through a postcard. Geiringer, Norway After another day at sea, we arrive at Norway's dramatic coast. As we sail into the stunning Geiringerfjord, we pass tiny villages dotting the hillside and so many waterfalls that it looks like the mountains have sprung leaks. Advertise with NZME. We stop at the port town of Geiringer, where we meet our guided tour. Our expert driver moves along the winding road, passing 11 hairpin turns, until we reach the famous Eagle's Bend viewpoint. At the top, I'm wowed by the view. Now I understand why Geiringerfjord has become a Unesco World Heritage Site. We continue on for more views of the green Flydal Valley to the high mountain Djupvatn Lake, offering one picturesque view after another. Flåm, Norway Sailing into the gorgeous Sognefjord, we arrive at the seaside village of Flåm. Our included bus tour takes us up into the hills above Aurlandsfjord, which has a reputation as one of the world's most scenic places. After seeing the narrow fjord, steep mountains, and waterfalls, I can understand why. Ålesund, Norway Norway isn't just about pretty sights. In Ålesund, my friend Pat and I sign up for an invigorating e-bike tour of Hessa Island, and our e-bikes are some of the lightest and best I've ever ridden. We follow our guide through the tidy streets of Ålesund, past stone buildings, quiet homes and stately churches to Hessa Island, where our guide regales us with Norway's WWII history as we ride along the coast. Bergen, Norway Our final port is the Norwegian town of Bergen. Founded in 1070 as a Viking settlement, it quickly became a centre for the Hanseatic League. Those times can still be seen in the Bryggen District along the wharf, which dates to 1360. Today, its brightly coloured wooden houses are listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site. Viking has arranged an excellent guide for our city tour. He shares historical and current insight on the region. Fun fact: Frozen pizza is one of the most popular local dishes in Norwegian homes. Sure enough, a peek in the grocer reveals a vast section of frozen pizza. Afterward, we stroll through shops and cafes in the Bryggen District. As I take one last look at Bergen's colourful Bryggen District before heading to the airport, I'm struck by how this voyage has woven together three distinct Nordic cultures. Following ancient Viking sea routes aboard the aptly named Viking Saturn has revealed these lands as explorers first saw them so long ago—from the water. Details
Telegraph
30-01-2025
- Telegraph
The 12 best things to do in Reykjavik
Despite its modest proportions, you won't ever be short of anything to do in Reykjavik. Alongside alluring natural sights – Tjörnin Lake, the pretty harbour, Mount Esja – the capital also offers museums and art galleries galore, plus some fascinating architecture (the soaring Hallgrimskirkja church being a case in point), and a unique blend of local community dynamics with a worldy cosmopolitanism. That's without mentioning the idiosyncratic shopping, abundant hot pools, and a year-round calendar foaming with concerts, events and festivals. For more Reykjavik's scenic central pond draws an impressive variety of birdlife, from Arctic terns and swans to greylag geese and mallard ducks. Strolling round Tjörnin Lake, which is fringed by cultural and municipal buildings, parks and residences, is a popular local pastime; just be sure to only feed the birds grains and seeds if possible, since bread isn't the best for their diets and also attracts aggressive seagulls. Insider's Tip: Pop into the nearby Contact: Price: Free It's impossible to miss Hallgrímskirkja, the city's main church; at 240-feet tall, it's by far the highest landmark in the city and its rocket-shaped exterior certainly makes it the most distinctive sight in town. It was designed by famed national architect Guðjón Samúelsson, who was inspired by the country's basalt rock formations. Admire the statue of national hero Leifur Eiríksson outside before exploring the rich interior, which includes an immense organ with over 5,000 pipes. Insider's Tip: Take the lift up to the church's tower for magnificent views over Reykjavik's colourful rooftops and out across the harbour and the sea. Note that the tower shuts half an hour before the usual closing time. Contact: Price: £ A swim in one of Reykjavik's geothermal pools is both a wonderful way to relax and — if you select the right spot — an excellent way to meet and mingle with the locals, who use the pools to socialise. One of the best is Vesturbæjarlaug, which can be reached via a pleasant 20-minute promenade walk from the city or by bus. It has four hot tubs, one cold bath, a large outdoor pool and a steam room. Insider's Tip: Be aware that Icelandic pools and changing areas are often mixed sex. If you don't have your swimming costume you can rent one from most places. Contact: Price: £ The Harpa Concert Hall has gone from being a costly controversy (it was built during the economic collapse) to one of the country's main sources of cultural pride. Home to the Iceland Symphony Orchestra, and the Reykjavík Big Band, its stunning facade, designed by Icelandic-Danish artist Olafur Eliasson to reflect Iceland's natural beauty, contains several visually stunning halls with outstanding acoustics, as well as an Icelandic design store, two restaurants, and more. Insider's Tip: Another option is to take one of the guided tours, which offer insights into the history, architecture, design and world-class acoustics of the building, as well as areas not normally open to the public. Contact: Price: £-££ Reykjavik's harbour area, once the lone preserve of ships and their captains and fishermen, still functions as a traditional harbour, complete with trawlers, whaling ships and other boats. But a recent regeneration project, starting with the Harpa Concert Hall development, has made it into a mini-district of its own, with cafés, restaurants and even museums to visit. Insider's Tip: Wandering aimlessly is pleasant enough, but specific activities to look out for include taking a whale- or puffin-watching trip from one of the harbour tour companies such as Contact: Price: £ Icelandic history has the advantage of a relatively straightforward and clear narrative while still containing plenty of drama. The permanent exhibition at Reykjavik's National Museum tells the entire story from settlement to the present-day, making great use of various archeological finds, as well as historic photos. Among the 2,000 objects are replicas of swords and drinking horns, plus an elaborately decorated 13th-century church door from Valþjófsstaðir. Insider's Tip : Grab a free smartphone audio guide to hear a lot of entertaining extra detail. Contact: Price: £ The Arbær Open Air Museum, part of the Reykjavík City Museum, was created to give an example of how rural Reykjavik life used to be just a few decades ago. Essentially a village a 15-minute drive outside of the capital, it was built around the remnants of a working farm and supplemented by buildings moved here from the city-centre, as well as some domestic animals and old machinery. Insider's Tip: Staff dress in period costume and offer workshops for traditional crafts such as spinning yarn, making candles and churning butter, making it an interesting visit for adults and children alike. Free guided tours take place daily at 1pm. Contact: Price: £ Þingvellir National Park, located around 30 miles outside of the city, is one of the most enticing natural sites in reasonable proximity to Reykjavik. It is most famously the site of Iceland's original Viking parliament (Assembly) but it's also a stunning natural park with easy to follow (mostly) wooden walkways guiding visitors past lakes, waterfalls, cliffs and occasional buildings such as the pretty Þingvellir church. Insider's Tip: If you're a water enthusiast, book a trip to the park's Contact: Price: £ The Reykjavik Art Museum is split between three different venues, the most alluring being Ásmundarsafn — a museum dedicated to the work and life of sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson. It's not as central as the other two locations (although it is still only a 30-minute walk from the city centre) but the reward is a unique piece of Mediterranean-style white domed architecture, which the artist designed himself, plus a selection of his works both inside and in the pleasant sculpture garden. Keen for more? The more central Hafnarhús part of the Reykjavík Art Museum, has six galleries with a mix of contemporary art (local and international) and a permanent collection of works from Iceland's most famous pop artist, Erró. Insider's Tip: To make the most of the trip, combine it with a walk to the nearby botanic garden, Contact: Price: £ Located just south of the city centre, atop the wooded Öskjuhlíð hill, sits a large glass domed building with a base constructed from converted cylindrical water tanks. Better known as Perlan ('the Pearl'), the building offers a permanent exhibition (called 'Wonders of Iceland') that gives a high-tech and enjoyably interactive overview of all the interconnected facets of Icelandic nature – from glaciers, volcanoes and ocean life to earthquakes, northern lights and bird life. Highlights include a 100-metre-long ice cave (the world's first) built from over 350 tons of snow, a planetarium where visitors can journey through space with captivating digital shows and a memorable northern lights display Insider's tip: There's also a café, restaurant, bar so you can make a day (or half a day) of it; be sure not to miss the fabulous city panoramas from the outside observation deck. Contact: Price: £ The Marshall House was built in 1948 in the Grandi area—an extension of the harbour district that has long been an important part of the local fishing industry. The house started life as a fish meal factory but along with the renovation of the entire area, it was transformed into a cultural centre in 2017. Characterised by large windows and a linear procession of beams and columns in twentieth-century industrial style (as well as an eye-catching concrete staircase), the space consists of four independently-operated art spaces: The Living Art Museum, a non-profit museum founded by artists in the 70s; Kling & Bang, an artist-run gallery space; Þula, a newer gallery focusing on emerging artists; and i8 Grandi, the second space of i8 Gallery, a long-standing contemporary art gallery founded in 1995—single artist shows here last a whole year. On the top floor of the building is the private studio of the award-winning eponymous Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson, whose designs were used in the Harpa Concert Hall, and many of his works can be seen on the ground floor of the Marshall House, where visitors can also grab a coffee or lunch at La Primavera restaurant. Website: Price: £-££ Probably one of the most unique museums in Iceland – if not on the planet – Reykjavik's 'penis museum' does pretty much what it says on the tin: offers a vast collection of phallic specimens belonging to the various types of mammal found throughout the country and beyond. Founded by historian Sigurður Hjartarson, and curated these days by his son, Hjörtur Gísli Sigurðsson, the museum was inspired by Hjartarson's childhood days, when he was given a pizzle (bull's penis) to play with. Having moved a few times in recent years, it now occupies a venue in the harbour area that showcases over 400 penises (and penile parts) from around 150 species along with hundreds of art pieces and cultural items. Recent additions include a plaster-cast of Jimi Hendrix from the late Cynthia Plaster Caster, 128 plaster casts from anonymous Icelandic men, and an eight-foot tall penis sculpture from Montreal. Insider's Tip: Although the museum is more scientific than wink-wink-nudge-nudge, the associated Phallic Café serves interestingly shaped waffles, 'cock-tails' and beers with names like Moby Dick and Big Cock Ale. Contact: Price: £ Every attraction and activity in this curated list has been tried and tested by our destination expert, to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of budgets and styles, from world-class museums to family-friendly theme parks – to best suit every type of traveller. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest openings and provide up to date recommendations. Paul has been an Icelandophile since writing his 2003 music-themed travelogue, 'waking up in Iceland'. He has travelled all over the country during his numerous visits since, and loves nothing more than a dip in a local hot pool and a waffle at the timeless Mokka cafe.
