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Athens ancient theater hosts final festival season before closing for three-year restoration
Athens ancient theater hosts final festival season before closing for three-year restoration

Mint

timea day ago

  • Entertainment
  • Mint

Athens ancient theater hosts final festival season before closing for three-year restoration

ATHENS, Greece (AP) — For visitors to Athens, the ancient Odeon of Herod Atticus is the must-see theater at the foot of the Acropolis. Artists revere it for the majestic stage where legends have performed. And for the Greek capital's residents it is the touchstone of their summer cultural calendar. The Odeon of Herod Atticus recently opened the 70th season of the annual Athens Epidaurus Festival, a cherished annual tradition for many Greeks. But this edition marks the last before the theater that's more than 18 centuries old shuts down for maintenance and restoration work that is expected to last at least three years. While theater and dance grace its stage, music is its cornerstone. Renowned artists who have performed here include Luciano Pavarotti, Frank Sinatra, Coldplay, and Greece's own Maria Callas. Its closure will be a profound loss for spectators who have long enjoyed first-class performances under the stars in one of the world's most iconic open-air theaters. 'When (people) think of the Athens cultural scene, everyone thinks of the festival and Herodion,' said Katerina Evangelatos, the festival's artistic director since 2019, calling the theater by its commonly used Greek name. 'It has become a synonym of the festival. It is the heart of the festival.' When the Greek National Opera opened this season's festival with Giacomo Puccini's opera Turandot, it erected temporary structures behind the Roman-era odeon's arched walls to expand available space for performers' dressing rooms. The permanent underground facilities weren't enough. The production also needed more space inside the venue to accommodate the scale of the production. To meet the opera's scenic and casting demands, a crew constructed a wooden, balcony-like platform to partially extend over the orchestra pit. This adaption allowed space for the large cast and complex staging, including the emblematic scene in which the emperor, Turandot's elderly father, is ceremonially rolled out in his towering throne to watch suitors attempt to solve his daughter's riddles — at the risk of execution. The scene requires significant simultaneous on-stage presence by multiple performers. Giorgos Koumendakis, the Greek National Opera's artistic director, describes the Herod Atticus Odeon as 'a strained, fatigued space' which still commands widespread veneration. 'People who are conscious, cultivated, educated — who understand what this space is, its historical significance, the importance of the festival, and the history of the Greek National Opera — respect it deeply and enter it almost reverently,' said Koumendakis. 'It's like entering a temple — a temple of art — and it truly has an impact. I can see it from the singers and the orchestra, too. When they come here, they genuinely want to give their all." During previous restoration and conservation projects, the Herod Atticus Odeon had surfaces cleaned, cracks filled with grout and new seating installed. This time, the scope of the work will depend on findings from the studies still underway. Culture Minister Lina Mendoni said that although the venue's closing date is certain, at the end of summer, its reopening is not. 'This will depend on the problems that the studies will reveal,' she said in an interview to Greek radio station Skai last month. 'What is certain is that at least three years will be needed.' The closure of the Herod Atticus means the Athens Epidaurus Festival will need to consider alternatives for the next few years. Evangelatos reflected on the festival's 70 years, noting that it began during Greece's turbulent postwar years of political division and economic hardship. 'It's a miracle of survival and artistic legacy,' she said. On the festival's opening night, the backstage area was abuzz with final preparations, with wigs styled, masks adjusted and costumes touched up. Soprano Lise Lindstrom, who starred as Turandot, took in the gravity of the setting. 'It's an absolutely magical atmosphere here. To be able to stand on the stage and look directly up and see the Acropolis is a little bit mind-blowing, I have to admit,' she said. 'And then also to look out and see all the people sitting there and just being so absorbed into the performance. It's very, very powerful and magical.' All eyes were on Lindstrom as she took center stage beneath the stars — marking the start of a final season before a long intermission.

Athens' ancient theater hosts final festival season before closing for three-year restoration
Athens' ancient theater hosts final festival season before closing for three-year restoration

San Francisco Chronicle​

timea day ago

  • Entertainment
  • San Francisco Chronicle​

Athens' ancient theater hosts final festival season before closing for three-year restoration

ATHENS, Greece (AP) — For visitors to Athens, the ancient Odeon of Herod Atticus is the must-see theater at the foot of the Acropolis. Artists revere it for the majestic stage where legends have performed. And for the Greek capital's residents it is the touchstone of their summer cultural calendar. The Odeon of Herod Atticus recently opened the 70th season of the annual Athens Epidaurus Festival, a cherished annual tradition for many Greeks. But this edition marks the last before the theater that's more than 18 centuries old shuts down for maintenance and restoration work that is expected to last at least three years. While theater and dance grace its stage, music is its cornerstone. Renowned artists who have performed here include Luciano Pavarotti, Frank Sinatra, Coldplay, and Greece's own Maria Callas. Its closure will be a profound loss for spectators who have long enjoyed first-class performances under the stars in one of the world's most iconic open-air theaters. 'When (people) think of the Athens cultural scene, everyone thinks of the festival and Herodion,' said Katerina Evangelatos, the festival's artistic director since 2019, calling the theater by its commonly used Greek name. 'It has become a synonym of the festival. It is the heart of the festival.' When the Greek National Opera opened this season's festival with Giacomo Puccini's opera Turandot, it erected temporary structures behind the Roman-era odeon's arched walls to expand available space for performers' dressing rooms. The permanent underground facilities weren't enough. The production also needed more space inside the venue to accommodate the scale of the production. This adaption allowed space for the large cast and complex staging, including the emblematic scene in which the emperor, Turandot's elderly father, is ceremonially rolled out in his towering throne to watch suitors attempt to solve his daughter's riddles — at the risk of execution. The scene requires significant simultaneous on-stage presence by multiple performers. 'It's like entering a temple' Giorgos Koumendakis, the Greek National Opera's artistic director, describes the Herod Atticus Odeon as 'a strained, fatigued space' which still commands widespread veneration. 'People who are conscious, cultivated, educated — who understand what this space is, its historical significance, the importance of the festival, and the history of the Greek National Opera — respect it deeply and enter it almost reverently,' said Koumendakis. 'It's like entering a temple — a temple of art — and it truly has an impact. I can see it from the singers and the orchestra, too. When they come here, they genuinely want to give their all." During previous restoration and conservation projects, the Herod Atticus Odeon had surfaces cleaned, cracks filled with grout and new seating installed. This time, the scope of the work will depend on findings from the studies still underway. Culture Minister Lina Mendoni said that although the venue's closing date is certain, at the end of summer, its reopening is not. 'This will depend on the problems that the studies will reveal,' she said in an interview to Greek radio station Skai last month. 'What is certain is that at least three years will be needed.' A long intermission The closure of the Herod Atticus means the Athens Epidaurus Festival will need to consider alternatives for the next few years. Evangelatos reflected on the festival's 70 years, noting that it began during Greece's turbulent postwar years of political division and economic hardship. 'It's a miracle of survival and artistic legacy,' she said. On the festival's opening night, the backstage area was abuzz with final preparations, with wigs styled, masks adjusted and costumes touched up. Soprano Lise Lindstrom, who starred as Turandot, took in the gravity of the setting. 'It's an absolutely magical atmosphere here. To be able to stand on the stage and look directly up and see the Acropolis is a little bit mind-blowing, I have to admit,' she said. 'And then also to look out and see all the people sitting there and just being so absorbed into the performance. It's very, very powerful and magical.'

Athens' ancient theater hosts final festival season before closing for three-year restoration
Athens' ancient theater hosts final festival season before closing for three-year restoration

Winnipeg Free Press

timea day ago

  • Entertainment
  • Winnipeg Free Press

Athens' ancient theater hosts final festival season before closing for three-year restoration

ATHENS, Greece (AP) — For visitors to Athens, the ancient Odeon of Herod Atticus is the must-see theater at the foot of the Acropolis. Artists revere it for the majestic stage where legends have performed. And for the Greek capital's residents it is the touchstone of their summer cultural calendar. The Odeon of Herod Atticus recently opened the 70th season of the annual Athens Epidaurus Festival, a cherished annual tradition for many Greeks. But this edition marks the last before the theater that's more than 18 centuries old shuts down for maintenance and restoration work that is expected to last at least three years. While theater and dance grace its stage, music is its cornerstone. Renowned artists who have performed here include Luciano Pavarotti, Frank Sinatra, Coldplay, and Greece's own Maria Callas. Its closure will be a profound loss for spectators who have long enjoyed first-class performances under the stars in one of the world's most iconic open-air theaters. 'When (people) think of the Athens cultural scene, everyone thinks of the festival and Herodion,' said Katerina Evangelatos, the festival's artistic director since 2019, calling the theater by its commonly used Greek name. 'It has become a synonym of the festival. It is the heart of the festival.' When the Greek National Opera opened this season's festival with Giacomo Puccini's opera Turandot, it erected temporary structures behind the Roman-era odeon's arched walls to expand available space for performers' dressing rooms. The permanent underground facilities weren't enough. The production also needed more space inside the venue to accommodate the scale of the production. To meet the opera's scenic and casting demands, a crew constructed a wooden, balcony-like platform to partially extend over the orchestra pit. This adaption allowed space for the large cast and complex staging, including the emblematic scene in which the emperor, Turandot's elderly father, is ceremonially rolled out in his towering throne to watch suitors attempt to solve his daughter's riddles — at the risk of execution. The scene requires significant simultaneous on-stage presence by multiple performers. 'It's like entering a temple' Giorgos Koumendakis, the Greek National Opera's artistic director, describes the Herod Atticus Odeon as 'a strained, fatigued space' which still commands widespread veneration. 'People who are conscious, cultivated, educated — who understand what this space is, its historical significance, the importance of the festival, and the history of the Greek National Opera — respect it deeply and enter it almost reverently,' said Koumendakis. 'It's like entering a temple — a temple of art — and it truly has an impact. I can see it from the singers and the orchestra, too. When they come here, they genuinely want to give their all.' During previous restoration and conservation projects, the Herod Atticus Odeon had surfaces cleaned, cracks filled with grout and new seating installed. This time, the scope of the work will depend on findings from the studies still underway. Culture Minister Lina Mendoni said that although the venue's closing date is certain, at the end of summer, its reopening is not. 'This will depend on the problems that the studies will reveal,' she said in an interview to Greek radio station Skai last month. 'What is certain is that at least three years will be needed.' A long intermission The closure of the Herod Atticus means the Athens Epidaurus Festival will need to consider alternatives for the next few years. Evangelatos reflected on the festival's 70 years, noting that it began during Greece's turbulent postwar years of political division and economic hardship. 'It's a miracle of survival and artistic legacy,' she said. On the festival's opening night, the backstage area was abuzz with final preparations, with wigs styled, masks adjusted and costumes touched up. Soprano Lise Lindstrom, who starred as Turandot, took in the gravity of the setting. 'It's an absolutely magical atmosphere here. To be able to stand on the stage and look directly up and see the Acropolis is a little bit mind-blowing, I have to admit,' she said. 'And then also to look out and see all the people sitting there and just being so absorbed into the performance. It's very, very powerful and magical.' All eyes were on Lindstrom as she took center stage beneath the stars — marking the start of a final season before a long intermission.

The 16 best things to do in Athens
The 16 best things to do in Athens

Telegraph

time28-01-2025

  • Telegraph

The 16 best things to do in Athens

With so much history crammed into one crowded, chaotic city, it's hard to know where to start sightseeing in Athens. If you're into antiquities, you could spend a week wandering among the ruins clustered around the Acropolis. But Athens is no historical theme park, and there are plenty of other things to do. Contemporary culture is everywhere, from the politically charged street art that's become the modern city's trademark to specialist museums, street markets, and open-air festivals that reflect the city's increasingly multicultural population. Athens wears its long history lightly — you'll even find locals sunbathing beside an ancient temple on one of the city's many golden beaches. For further When it opened a decade ago, the Acropolis Museum was controversial. Not only because it reinvigorated the campaign to return the Elgin Marbles, but also for its unabashedly modern architecture. Now this fantastically interactive museum is as much a part of the city's cultural landscape as the Acropolis itself. Start at the top floor Parthenon Gallery, where the temple frieze is brilliantly displayed, and work your way down. Insider tip: Explore the streets, courtyards and mansions where Athenians lived thousands of years ago at the ancient settlement excavated below the museum. Contact: Nearest metro: Acropolis Prices: £ Obviously, you can't visit Athens without visiting the Acropolis. No matter how many times you've paid homage to this wonder of the ancient world, the sheer majesty of the setting, artistry of the architecture, and palpable sense of humanity's quest for eternity will give you goosebumps. Just make sure you don't go at midday —all that dazzling white marble reflects the sun. Insider tip: Use the side entrance on Dionysiou Areopagitou street, rather than the main entrance below the Propylaea. The queue for tickets is shorter, and the gentle climb up to the temple takes you past the ancient amphitheatres of Dionysus and Herod Atticus. Contact: Nearest metro: Acropolis Prices: ££ Built on the site of an ancient arena, the horseshoe-shaped Panathenaic Stadium was paved entirely in marble by the wealthy Athenian benefactor, Herodes Atticus, in 140 AD. It has hosted everything from naked athletics to gladiators, the first modern Olympics, and even occasional rock concerts. For an unforgettable work-out, the running track inside the stadium is open to joggers from 7.30am to 9am. Insider tip: On the second Sunday in November, the stadium is the thrilling finishing line of the Athens Marathon. It's free to enter to cheer on the runners on that day. Contact: Nearest metro: 15-minute walk from Acropolis, Syntagma or Evangelismos Prices: £ Time travel through several centuries in a single day on Vasilissis Sofias Avenue, the Museum Mile of Athens. From Orthodox iconography at the Byzantine and Christian Museum to prehistoric sculpture juxtaposed with contemporary art at the Museum of Cycladic Art and 20th-century Greek painting and folk art at the Benaki Museum of Greek Culture, it's the perfect Athens first-timers' primer. Insider tip: Strolling through the sculpture gardens of the Byzantine and Christian Museum, it's easy to imagine how the peripatetic philosophy students, who wandered the hallowed grounds of Aristotle's Lyceum next door, were inspired by their surroundings. Contact: Nearest metro: Evangelismos or Syntagma Prices: £ Unlike Père Lachaise or Highgate, the First Cemetery of Athens is completely off the tourist radar. This serene, open-air sculpture garden is a who's who of Greece's good and great, their graves marked with extravagant mausolea or melancholy marble angels. The flower-lined paths are shaded with cypress and bitter orange trees, whose blossoms perfume the cemetery in spring. Insider tip: There's no map of the cemetery and the tombstones follow an arcane numbering system. If you're looking for a particular grave, check this helpful Contact: Nearest metro: 15-minute walk from Acropolis or Syggrou-Fix Prices: Free Many Greeks will tell you that the collection at the National Archaeological Museum is superior to that of the Acropolis Museum. The curation may be old-fashioned, but the richness of the exhibits is truly outstanding. You could spend days ogling the toned statues, delicate jewellery, and intriguing household items from antiquity in this neoclassical landmark. The enchanting sculpture garden is a secret oasis on the lower ground floor. Insider tip: If you're staying in Athens for more than a day or two, buy a three-day ticket that's also valid for the underrated Epigraphic Museum, Numismatic Museum and Byzantine and Christian Museum. Contact: Nearest metro: Omonia or Victoria Prices: £ It's hard to eat well in Plaka, the touristy old town of Athens. Ignore the taverna touts hawking frozen moussaka and sign up for a food tour with Culinary Backstreets. Their in-the-know guides know where to find the creamiest yogurt, juiciest souvlaki, and sweetest baklava. Along the way, they'll point out the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman traces evident in the local architecture and culture. Insider tip: Do not under any circumstances eat breakfast before you go; there's a lot to taste during this five and a half-hour walking tour. Contact: Nearest metro: Syntagma or Monastiraki Prices: ££ Every Athenian neighbourhood has its weekly laiki agora (people's market), a local ritual that's as much street theatre as a celebration of seasonal food. One of the liveliest markets is on Kallidromiou Street in Exarchia. On Saturday morning, locals of all ages and stripes pick through heaps of fragrant fruits and vegetables and bat away the cheeky banter of the stallholders. Insider tip: Pick up cheese and crackers from Ellinika Kaloudia (00 30 210 330 0384; kafenio (coffee shop). Address: Kallidromiou Street Nearest metro: 15-minute walk from Panepistimio or Omonia Prices: £ From May to October, Athenian life moves outdoors — including the cinemas. There are over 60 open-air movie theatres all over Athens: hidden on rooftops, squeezed between apartment buildings, in parks, even by the seaside. Some, like Cine Paris and Thision, even have the Acropolis as a backdrop. Insider tip: Venture beyond the city centre to Oasis (00 30 210 724 4015) in Pangrati or Zefyros (00 30 210 346 2677) in Petralona, two cult summer cinemas that screen vintage classics. Contact: Opening times: There are two screenings every night; the first starts around 9pm and the late show is at 11pm Prices: £ The clunkily named Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre is a masterclass in green design and public space. Surrounding the shiny national opera house and library, there's kayaking on the canal, bikes for hire, petanque and playgrounds, free concerts and festivals. Go at dusk to watch the sunset over the Athens Riviera from the Lighthouse, a glass-walled lookout perched on the green roof. Insider tip: If you want to explore more of coastal Athens, which has everything from Blue Flag bays to beach clubs, marinas, mineral lakes and ancient temples, sign up for an Contact: Nearest metro: None, but there is a free shuttle bus to and from Syntagma and Syggrou-Fix metro station several times a day Prices: Free (apart from performances at the Greek National Opera) The late shipping tycoon Basil and his wife Elise Goulandris were friends and benefactors of some of the greatest artists of the 20th century. Highlights of their formidable collection (estimated value: $3 billion) were periodically shown at their namesake museum on the island of Andros, until the works found a permanent home in Athens in 2019. The purpose-built B&E Goulandris Foundation Museum includes masterpieces by Picasso, Kandinsky, Miró, Pollock, Bacon, and pretty much every other 20th century artist you can name. The couple were also fans of the Impressionists and acquired many works by Van Gogh, Cezanne, Monet, and Degas. Another floor is devoted to Greek artists including Ghika, Tsarouchis, Moralis, and Tetsis – an excellent primer for those less familiar with Greece's modern art scene. Contact: Nearest metro: Evangelismos, then 10-15 min walk Prices: ££ Insider tip: The Goulandris The former brewery in which the National Museum of Contemporary Art (EMST) is housed stood empty for decades. It took almost as long for Greece's first proper contemporary art institution to get off the ground, but it has finally come into its own. The focus is on 21st century art from Greece, Southern Europe, and the Eastern Mediterranean, with socio-politically engaged group shows, solo exhibitions, and a lively programme of talks, screenings, and events. The donation of 140 large-scale installations from the D. Daskalopoulos Collection will add real clout to the museum's permanent collection. Contact: Nearest metro: Syggrou-Fix Prices: £ Insider tip: Hold onto your entrance ticket; you can use it for a second time if you return within one month. A brilliant revival of a derelict industrial zone, this seaside park is the perfect place to kill some time if you're waiting to catch a ferry from Piraeus. Abandoned for years, the former chemical fertiliser factory of Lipasmata has been transformed into a seaside park with cycle lanes, sports courts and playgrounds, a cute canteen and a tiny chapel beneath a giant water tower. The old silos and workers' quarters, the local brothel and slaughterhouse, are still empty and desolate — an evocative reminder of the Drapetsona district's ragged history. Insider tip: There are occasional outdoor concerts or screenings at the two amphitheatres. But the best thing to do is to simply stroll or jog along the 2-kilometre waterfront boulevard, watching the ships come and go as the sun sets over the islands on the horizon. Contact: Nearest metro: Piraeus Prices: Free There is a diehard community of winter swimmers in Athens, but you don't need to brace yourself to dive into the sea from May-October. Although locals do swim at the urban beaches of Faliro, Alimos, and Glyfada, for the clearest waters head further south to the moneyed coastal enclaves of Kavouri and Vouliagmeni. The small cove and smart restaurant at Zen Beach, or the sheltered sandy bay of Akti Vouliagmenis, where tanned locals flex their racquetball skills, are perfect spots to flop for a long day in the sun. Insider tip: For more of a beach club vibe and a good-looking crowd, hit up the sexy swimming pool at Ace Hotel and Swim Club, the hipster hotel chain's first, art-filled foray into Greek waters. Contact: Nearest metro: Elliniko, then bus or tram Prices: Some beaches in Athens are free, others charge an entry fee for a sunbed. Built as a place of worship to Poseidon, the god of the sea, earthquakes and horses, the fifth-century-BC Temple of Poseidon stands on the southernmost point of the Attica peninsula in Cape Sounion. Originally made up of 34 white marble Doric columns, 15 of which remain, it commands amazing views over the Aegean Sea, which are particularly spectacular at sunset. Insider tip: The coastal road from Athens to Sounio passes through the seaside suburbs of Glyfada, Vouliagmeni and Varkiza, and affords fine views over the Saronic Gulf – you could combine a day at the beach with an early-evening visit to Sounio. Contact: 00 30 229 203 9363 Opening times: Daily, 9am-sunset Price: £ Greece's most beautiful classical site, Delphi, was the home of the fabled Oracle which spoke its prophesies (with the help of trance-inducing leaves) through priestesses. Dating back beyond the eighth century BC, the hillside site, which is two-and-a-half hours from Athens, is scattered with ancient temples overlooking a gaping chasm, and is backed by Mt Parnassos. There's also an excellent museum displaying bronze and marble sculptures. Insider tip: On the road back to Athens is the mountain village of Arahova (about seven miles away). It's an upmarket winter resort and a great place to stop for a late lunch and shop for fluffy flokati rugs and locally produced formaela cheese. Opening times: Daily, 8am-8pm summer; 8am-3pm winter Price: ££ Despite having a spectacular coastline nearby, most wealthy Athenians prefer to escape to the islands in summer. The nearest islands, Aegina and Angistri, lie in the Argo-Saronic Gulf and can be done as a day trip. Both have lovely sand and pebble beaches, giving onto sparling clean sea, and plenty of tavernas serving locally caught fresh fish. The fastest way is with Insider tip: Ferries, hydrofoils and catamarans from Athens' port Piraeus to the islands get very busy on summer weekends, as do the islands themselves (booking in advance is recommended). To avoid the crowds, do this as a weekday trip. Contact: Opening times: Daily, 24 hours Price: ££-£££ Every attraction and activity in this curated list has been tried and tested by our destination expert, to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of budgets and styles, from world-class museums to family-friendly theme parks – to best suit every type of traveller. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest openings and provide up to date recommendations. Rachel Howard has lived in Athens on and off since she was six, but this chaotic, historic city still gives her a thrill. Favourite Athenian pastimes include: iced coffee overlooking sun-dappled ruins, fried whitebait by the seaside and late nights in squares that smell of jasmine and cigarettes.

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