13-06-2025
Wine with Leslie: Deep reds to savour from my Italian excursion
Last week, I extolled the joys of Abruzzo following a holiday there; and this week I'm talking about Puglia, where we took a short trip to explore the pretty city of Bari.
Unlike Abruzzo, we did see other tourists in Bari's old town, and it seems it is one of Italy's new cool destinations.
We ate well in Bari, with seafood to the fore of course, but also orecchiette pasta ragu; made with rich brascioli, thinly sliced beef rolled in a ball and held together with toothpicks, before being braised slowly in a rich tomato sauce.
I've frequently praised the wines of Puglia on this page, so it was wonderful to drink them in situ.
Naturally, we drank Primitivo di Manduria, the region's most famous DOC, with the brascioli mentioned above.
I failed to find the sweet dolce naturale version, which was elevated to DOCG in 2010. Hopefully next time.
Primitivo originates in Croatia (as Tribidrag) but is probably best known as Zinfandel from California.
The Pugliese version tends to be darker and richer due to climate variation (and different clones), while the Californian version is usually higher in alcohol, and has more sweet dried raspberry fruits.
Puglia has 28 DOC and 4 DOCG wines, but most of what you find on shelves in Ireland are IGT regional wines, often sold as varietals.
Be a little wary of appassimento dried grape versions, as some can have 8 or 10g of sugar: they will be tasty, but you may find them a little sweet.
Below I recommend a Nero di Troia from Northern Puglia, a Primitivo and Falanghina.
I would have recommended susumaniello rosé if I could find one but none seem to be available.
Also watch for Salice Salentino, made from Negroamaro and Malvasia nera; it has a dried-grape complexity that is also rather fascinating.
Maree D'Ione Nero di Troia Organic, Puglia, Italy, €14.95-15.95
Maree D'Ione Nero di Troia Organic, Puglia, Italy, €14.95-15.95
1601; Matsons; Vintry; Worldwide Wines; independent off-licences
Nero di Troia is only really found in northern Puglia, and this is one of the best I've tasted.
The grape can sometimes be tannic and darkly fruity, but this version has a lovely floral lightness of touch.
Ripe plum and cherry fruit flavours, with some spice and dark plums on the centre palate and rounded dark fruits.
Vigneti del Salento Primitivo 'I Muri', Puglia, Italy, €14.95-15.95
Vigneti del Salento Primitivo 'I Muri', Puglia, Italy, €14.95-15.95
JJ O'Driscoll; World Wide Wines; Baggot St Wines; Vintry; Martins; Lilac; McHughs;
Owned by the Fantini group, the grapes are from the communes of Sava and Manduria (the latter being the most famous region for Primitivo).
Ripe blackberry and plum aromas, juicy darker fruits on the palate, including dark cherry and baked plums, savoury and ripe.
Also watch for its sister wine, Luccarelli Primitivo.
Feudi San Gregorio, 'Falanghina del Sannio', Campania, Italy, €20
Feudi San Gregorio, 'Falanghina del Sannio', Campania, Italy, €20
Matsons; Martins; Blackrock Cellar; independents
Falanghina is found in Puglia, Molise (the small region between Abruzzo and Puglia) and most famously in Campania (sadly I couldn't find a Pugliese version to recommend).
This is weighty and fragrant, with apricot-kernel and lemon and lime blossom aromas.
On the palate there is pleasing texture and mouth-filling richness, cut by minerality, spice hints and a dried-lemon character.
MEAD OF THE WEEK
Kinsale Wildflower Irish Mead, 12% ABV, 70cl €45
Kinsale Wildflower Irish Mead, 12% ABV, 70cl €45
Celtic Whiskey Shop;
This fascinating new mead is aged in Irish oak barrels from Midleton Distillery - it's a 'Miskey' if you will. There are two other versions, a 'black forest' and a 'wild forest'; all three are gorgeous.
Made from West Cork honey, this has floral butterscotch and vanilla aromas, a layered palate with lychee and honey notes, a background of Midleton whiskey, and a sweet nutty complexity. Wonderful.
