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Scotsman
30-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Scotsman
Pianist Yeol Eum Son on tackling Beethoven with the SCO: 'He tells us a lot about determination'
Ahead of her performances of Beethoven's Third Piano Concerto in Edinburgh and Glasgow, Yeol Eum Son talks to David Kettle about the demands of international touring, the importance of building musical relationships, and why playing with the SCO is 'bliss' Sign up to our Arts and Culture newsletter Sign up Thank you for signing up! Did you know with a Digital Subscription to The Scotsman, you can get unlimited access to the website including our premium content, as well as benefiting from fewer ads, loyalty rewards and much more. Learn More Sorry, there seem to be some issues. Please try again later. Submitting... South Korean pianist Yeol Eum Son is fast becoming a familiar face in Scotland. She made her debut here – with Ravel's fiendish Left Hand Concerto – alongside the Iceland Symphony Orchestra back in early 2020, in one of the final concerts before Covid locked us all down. She returned to great acclaim at Fife's East Neuk Festival in 2023, and made her Edinburgh International Festival debut just a few weeks later. She's clearly getting to know the place well: 'I love the Scottish landscape – and how foggy it can be!' she laughs. Yeol Eum is forging her strongest relationship, however, with the Scottish Chamber Orchestra. She launched that partnership with Mozart in December 2022, and returns with more Mozart – a duo of contrasting piano concertos, Nos 21 and 24 – in October this year. 'They're such a tasteful band,' she says. 'Everything they do is so organic, stylish, vigorous yet embracing. The last time I played the Mozart Concerto with them, they played Dvořák's Symphony No. 7 in the second half – I was so impressed at how they sounded so completely but wonderfully different than they did in Mozart.' Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad As we approach the close of the current SCO season, however, Yeol Eum turns to Beethoven, and specifically his powerful Piano Concerto No. 3. She might be famed for her tender touch, her refinement and poetic elegance, but she's just as capable of fiery, muscular playing. 'Beethoven's music can be highly assertive and persistent,' she explains. 'He tells us a lot about determination.' Yeol Eum Son She draws parallels, however, between the two composers whose music she's (so far) performed with the SCO. 'Of course Beethoven admired Mozart so much, and the Third Concerto is known to be heavily influenced by Mozart's Concerto in the same key – No. 24 in C minor, K491.' Perhaps not coincidentally, that's one of the two Mozart concertos Yeol Eum has planned for her performance with the SCO later this year. All this talk of Mozart and Beethoven, however, might be doing Yeol Eum a disservice. She takes enormous pride in the breadth of her repertoire, and indeed in her championing of some unfairly overlooked musical figures – from Alkan to Lekeu and Galuppi, and particularly the fascinating Soviet jazz/classical crossover composer Nikolai Kapusin, to whose music she's devoted an entire CD. 'Yes, for me it's important to be eclectic in what I play, but only in the sense that I don't only eat Korean food all my life either. I simply love and want the diversity. But it's also true that I do learn a lot about one thing from another – I'd have a different perspective on Rachmaninov, for example, after playing Bach. And vice versa. Or I'd think differently about playing Chopin after working on a piece by a living composer. I love Mozart and Beethoven, but I need lots of control for them as I'm extremely exposed. I get much more nervous when I'm playing those composers on stage, too.' It's somewhat surprising to hear a musician actually admitting to nerves. But Yeol Eum a disarmingly straightforward, direct figure, and a performer who clearly thinks deeply about the music she plays – and, importantly, about her own relationship with it. Perhaps that honesty and serious-mindedness also contributed to another success in her earlier life – hugely popular monthly columns in one of South Korea's leading Sunday newspapers, which were later collected together into a best-selling book. She still loves writing as a counterpoint to playing, she says – after all, you can quickly change and improve something you've written, whereas a performance happens entirely in the moment. With all that journalistic expertise, however, let's turn the tables. What would she ask herself if she were in my position? 'Wow, that's an excellent question!' she laughs. And it elicits another disarmingly honest response. 'You know, generally speaking, as I'm a musician myself, I'm not that curious about musicians and their lives any more. There are many pianists and musicians that I adore with all my heart, but I don't particularly want to meet them or interview them. Instead, after listening to them playing, I'd love to point out a few places and ask why they play those sections as they do. So maybe I would do the same to myself.' Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad Considering that deep thinking, it's perhaps not surprising that Yeol Eum considers herself 'generally a shy person', though it's perhaps more eyebrow-raising that she continues: 'It sometimes takes me a while to create rapport in making music.' How does she manage to balance that with being constantly on the road – or, more accurately, in the air – and perpetually developing new relationships with ensembles and individual musicians around the world? Just this season, for example, she performs right across Europe, tours the USA and Canada, and has a number of recitals in South Korea too. 'I actually almost didn't realise, until quite recently, that this lifestyle is an unusual one,' she admits. 'I can't even say if I enjoy it or dislike it – I think I just accept it. You can always complain about your situation, but in the same way, you can always be happy too. Does that make sense?' Yeol Eum Son The answer to establishing rapport in an itinerant career, of course, is in return engagements – like those in her fast-developing relationship with the SCO. 'I don't think there are many musicians who wouldn't want to play with the SCO, since they're such a superb ensemble,' she smiles. But there are other factors, too. 'To be honest, since I'm travelling so much, just to be able to picture a city, an airport I already know, a venue whose acoustics I can remember, and an orchestra that sounds a particular way – all that already gives me a big comfort. The location, the venue, the audience, even the piano all play their part in me wanting to come back. And being in the Usher Hall or Glasgow City Halls together with the SCO is bliss.'


Telegraph
30-01-2025
- Telegraph
The 12 best things to do in Reykjavik
Despite its modest proportions, you won't ever be short of anything to do in Reykjavik. Alongside alluring natural sights – Tjörnin Lake, the pretty harbour, Mount Esja – the capital also offers museums and art galleries galore, plus some fascinating architecture (the soaring Hallgrimskirkja church being a case in point), and a unique blend of local community dynamics with a worldy cosmopolitanism. That's without mentioning the idiosyncratic shopping, abundant hot pools, and a year-round calendar foaming with concerts, events and festivals. For more Reykjavik's scenic central pond draws an impressive variety of birdlife, from Arctic terns and swans to greylag geese and mallard ducks. Strolling round Tjörnin Lake, which is fringed by cultural and municipal buildings, parks and residences, is a popular local pastime; just be sure to only feed the birds grains and seeds if possible, since bread isn't the best for their diets and also attracts aggressive seagulls. Insider's Tip: Pop into the nearby Contact: Price: Free It's impossible to miss Hallgrímskirkja, the city's main church; at 240-feet tall, it's by far the highest landmark in the city and its rocket-shaped exterior certainly makes it the most distinctive sight in town. It was designed by famed national architect Guðjón Samúelsson, who was inspired by the country's basalt rock formations. Admire the statue of national hero Leifur Eiríksson outside before exploring the rich interior, which includes an immense organ with over 5,000 pipes. Insider's Tip: Take the lift up to the church's tower for magnificent views over Reykjavik's colourful rooftops and out across the harbour and the sea. Note that the tower shuts half an hour before the usual closing time. Contact: Price: £ A swim in one of Reykjavik's geothermal pools is both a wonderful way to relax and — if you select the right spot — an excellent way to meet and mingle with the locals, who use the pools to socialise. One of the best is Vesturbæjarlaug, which can be reached via a pleasant 20-minute promenade walk from the city or by bus. It has four hot tubs, one cold bath, a large outdoor pool and a steam room. Insider's Tip: Be aware that Icelandic pools and changing areas are often mixed sex. If you don't have your swimming costume you can rent one from most places. Contact: Price: £ The Harpa Concert Hall has gone from being a costly controversy (it was built during the economic collapse) to one of the country's main sources of cultural pride. Home to the Iceland Symphony Orchestra, and the Reykjavík Big Band, its stunning facade, designed by Icelandic-Danish artist Olafur Eliasson to reflect Iceland's natural beauty, contains several visually stunning halls with outstanding acoustics, as well as an Icelandic design store, two restaurants, and more. Insider's Tip: Another option is to take one of the guided tours, which offer insights into the history, architecture, design and world-class acoustics of the building, as well as areas not normally open to the public. Contact: Price: £-££ Reykjavik's harbour area, once the lone preserve of ships and their captains and fishermen, still functions as a traditional harbour, complete with trawlers, whaling ships and other boats. But a recent regeneration project, starting with the Harpa Concert Hall development, has made it into a mini-district of its own, with cafés, restaurants and even museums to visit. Insider's Tip: Wandering aimlessly is pleasant enough, but specific activities to look out for include taking a whale- or puffin-watching trip from one of the harbour tour companies such as Contact: Price: £ Icelandic history has the advantage of a relatively straightforward and clear narrative while still containing plenty of drama. The permanent exhibition at Reykjavik's National Museum tells the entire story from settlement to the present-day, making great use of various archeological finds, as well as historic photos. Among the 2,000 objects are replicas of swords and drinking horns, plus an elaborately decorated 13th-century church door from Valþjófsstaðir. Insider's Tip : Grab a free smartphone audio guide to hear a lot of entertaining extra detail. Contact: Price: £ The Arbær Open Air Museum, part of the Reykjavík City Museum, was created to give an example of how rural Reykjavik life used to be just a few decades ago. Essentially a village a 15-minute drive outside of the capital, it was built around the remnants of a working farm and supplemented by buildings moved here from the city-centre, as well as some domestic animals and old machinery. Insider's Tip: Staff dress in period costume and offer workshops for traditional crafts such as spinning yarn, making candles and churning butter, making it an interesting visit for adults and children alike. Free guided tours take place daily at 1pm. Contact: Price: £ Þingvellir National Park, located around 30 miles outside of the city, is one of the most enticing natural sites in reasonable proximity to Reykjavik. It is most famously the site of Iceland's original Viking parliament (Assembly) but it's also a stunning natural park with easy to follow (mostly) wooden walkways guiding visitors past lakes, waterfalls, cliffs and occasional buildings such as the pretty Þingvellir church. Insider's Tip: If you're a water enthusiast, book a trip to the park's Contact: Price: £ The Reykjavik Art Museum is split between three different venues, the most alluring being Ásmundarsafn — a museum dedicated to the work and life of sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson. It's not as central as the other two locations (although it is still only a 30-minute walk from the city centre) but the reward is a unique piece of Mediterranean-style white domed architecture, which the artist designed himself, plus a selection of his works both inside and in the pleasant sculpture garden. Keen for more? The more central Hafnarhús part of the Reykjavík Art Museum, has six galleries with a mix of contemporary art (local and international) and a permanent collection of works from Iceland's most famous pop artist, Erró. Insider's Tip: To make the most of the trip, combine it with a walk to the nearby botanic garden, Contact: Price: £ Located just south of the city centre, atop the wooded Öskjuhlíð hill, sits a large glass domed building with a base constructed from converted cylindrical water tanks. Better known as Perlan ('the Pearl'), the building offers a permanent exhibition (called 'Wonders of Iceland') that gives a high-tech and enjoyably interactive overview of all the interconnected facets of Icelandic nature – from glaciers, volcanoes and ocean life to earthquakes, northern lights and bird life. Highlights include a 100-metre-long ice cave (the world's first) built from over 350 tons of snow, a planetarium where visitors can journey through space with captivating digital shows and a memorable northern lights display Insider's tip: There's also a café, restaurant, bar so you can make a day (or half a day) of it; be sure not to miss the fabulous city panoramas from the outside observation deck. Contact: Price: £ The Marshall House was built in 1948 in the Grandi area—an extension of the harbour district that has long been an important part of the local fishing industry. The house started life as a fish meal factory but along with the renovation of the entire area, it was transformed into a cultural centre in 2017. Characterised by large windows and a linear procession of beams and columns in twentieth-century industrial style (as well as an eye-catching concrete staircase), the space consists of four independently-operated art spaces: The Living Art Museum, a non-profit museum founded by artists in the 70s; Kling & Bang, an artist-run gallery space; Þula, a newer gallery focusing on emerging artists; and i8 Grandi, the second space of i8 Gallery, a long-standing contemporary art gallery founded in 1995—single artist shows here last a whole year. On the top floor of the building is the private studio of the award-winning eponymous Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson, whose designs were used in the Harpa Concert Hall, and many of his works can be seen on the ground floor of the Marshall House, where visitors can also grab a coffee or lunch at La Primavera restaurant. Website: Price: £-££ Probably one of the most unique museums in Iceland – if not on the planet – Reykjavik's 'penis museum' does pretty much what it says on the tin: offers a vast collection of phallic specimens belonging to the various types of mammal found throughout the country and beyond. Founded by historian Sigurður Hjartarson, and curated these days by his son, Hjörtur Gísli Sigurðsson, the museum was inspired by Hjartarson's childhood days, when he was given a pizzle (bull's penis) to play with. Having moved a few times in recent years, it now occupies a venue in the harbour area that showcases over 400 penises (and penile parts) from around 150 species along with hundreds of art pieces and cultural items. Recent additions include a plaster-cast of Jimi Hendrix from the late Cynthia Plaster Caster, 128 plaster casts from anonymous Icelandic men, and an eight-foot tall penis sculpture from Montreal. Insider's Tip: Although the museum is more scientific than wink-wink-nudge-nudge, the associated Phallic Café serves interestingly shaped waffles, 'cock-tails' and beers with names like Moby Dick and Big Cock Ale. Contact: Price: £ Every attraction and activity in this curated list has been tried and tested by our destination expert, to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of budgets and styles, from world-class museums to family-friendly theme parks – to best suit every type of traveller. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest openings and provide up to date recommendations. Paul has been an Icelandophile since writing his 2003 music-themed travelogue, 'waking up in Iceland'. He has travelled all over the country during his numerous visits since, and loves nothing more than a dip in a local hot pool and a waffle at the timeless Mokka cafe.