Latest news with #Ilincic
Yahoo
23-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Roksanda Fall 2025: Art and Craft
Roksanda Ilincic took to the skies once again, showing a collection filled with offbeat color combinations and oversized proportions on the 17th floor of Space House, the refurbished 1960s show venue in Covent Garden that has spectacular views — when it's not so cloudy. She drew inspiration from the late artist and sculptor Phyllida Barlow, who worked leftover, everyday materials such as cardboard, fabric, plywood and plaster into her large-scale works. In this age of sustainable fashion, and a make-do-and-mend mentality, especially among young people, Ilincic was spot on trend. More from WWD Penelope Tree Is Back on the Runway, and Will Walk for Fendi in Milan Stephen Jones Serves Up a Feast for the Senses for Fall 2025 London's Mayor Opens London Fashion Week Store The designer rooted around her studio and used leftover materials, mainly from her spring 2023 collection, to create the sculptural, abstract looks in the show's finale. Deadstock included melton wool (which she uses to line the inside collars of coats), paper, raffia, viscose and big, stiff squares of sponge. Skirts and tops fashioned from those floppy sponge panels seemed to float around the models' waists and necks, while ragged-edged fil coupe dresses, coats and tunic tops looked as if they were made from Silly String. Ilincic said she left those colorful fil coupe threads 'free and loose' so they could fall in all different ways and create different types of sculpture 'on their own.' The main collection had a similarly arty feel, with standout pieces including a sheer, floaty gown that was a patchwork of lavender, yellow and cornflower blue; and a lineup of lovely pink dresses, some of which were painted. Not all of the looks had such a light touch. Some of Ilincic's collaged creations were heavy-handed, including the dresses, headpieces and long belts made from layers of giant sequins that rustled as models walked. Oversize jackets with sheer black panels, and a fuzzy-backed coat, swamped the women wearing them, and looked almost comical at times. Those outsized proportions were more suited to the art — or sculpture — gallery, and will need a few tweaks before they hit the shop floor. Launch Gallery: Roksanda Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
The Independent
23-02-2025
- Entertainment
- The Independent
Roksanda brings sculptural silhouettes to London Fashion Week
Roksanda Illincic's autumn/winter 2025 collection brought sculptural silhouettes and tactile designs to the runway. The Serbian-born, London-based designer established her brand in 2005, rapidly becoming known for her bold, smart and sculptural approach to womenswear. Roksanda's client base include the Princess of Wales, Anne Hathaway and Cate Blanchett as her sophisticated, sleek yet vibrant designs are fit for royals and Hollywood A-listers alike. Ilincic's high end fans are an untimid class of women who do not necessarily need pointers to her inspiration. They are into her vibrant colour sense, revel in her extravagantly offbeat volumes and abstract drapes and appreciate the print-craft textures she wraps into her clothes. And her following will undoubtedly be thrilled with this latest collection. Inspired by the British sculptor Phyllida Barlow, the show closed with a monologue of Barlow stating: ' Space is malleable, it's a material, it's not just an empty vacuum.' The runway didn't stray far from Ilincic's creative roots, featuring stand-out colour blocking, modern cuts and sculptural silhouettes. Sharp lines were apparent alongside sumptuous heavy grey knits, oversized blazers and pinstriped wool capes. But it was not all long-lined neutrals. Roksanda's party wear stole the show with loose thread fringing, large disco sequins and vivid contrasting silks. Sustainability has always been at the core of Ilincic's design philosophy. This collection was inspired by Barlow's use of repurposing discarded items, which helped her explore fragility, impermanence and physicality, creating work that feels in constant motion. Ilincic evoked Barlow's own use of fabrications such as cardboard, tape and paint. Texture, colour and tactile experimentation took centre stage, featuring unconventional fabrics from fringe-spiked raffia to fil coupé tapestry and oversized sequins. Roksanda's signature dresses revealed their inner construction, while sharp, oversized tailoring was complemented by elegant organza panels that introduced a refined, feminine softness. In quintessential Roksanda style, there was a celebration of colour, delving into what lies beneath its surface, using dripping threads and cut outs. Constructed from negative spaces around the pattern pieces, dresses blurred the lines between sculpture and garment. With a sustained focus on space and form, there was no better venue than the Space House in central London, designed by architect Richard Seifert, this brutalist and minimal backdrop resonates with Roksanda's strong and sculptural design philosophy.
