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Extra.ie
4 days ago
- Extra.ie
The Weekend Run with Liam Gaskin — A coastal run in the 'Sunny South East' and Honda's huge biking milestone
For me, my bike runs are more about the journey and less about the destination, and this week's run is no exception. I set myself a goal of getting from Wicklow Town to Wexford Town without touching a motorway or a dual carriageway. Just outside Wicklow Town on the coast road from Wicklow to Arklow, the first thing I saw was a clear road ahead. It didn't last forever, but it was far more tranquil than other roads I could have taken. The clear coast road just outside Wicklow Town, on the way to Arklow — a biker's dream. Pic: Supplied The next thing I saw was a large tower on the coast, which turned out to be the old Wicklow Head lighthouse, which dates back to 1781. However, it is now a holiday accommodation managed by the Irish Landmark Trust. Their website states that it has two double bedrooms, a sitting room, a fully fitted kitchen, and all modern conveniences. You can even bring the little ones with you, as it provides a cot or a crib. Towels, linens, etc, are all supplied. At my age, the deal breaker for me was the kitchen, which is 109 steps up at the top of the Lighthouse. I bet the views are amazing. You can enjoy this little bit of history for €800 for two nights. The old lighthouse might be old, but thanks to renovations, you can stay here for a couple of nights if you fancy it! Pic: Supplied Onwards I rode past Blainroe to Brittas Bay, which I have mentioned before. I also passed the European Golf Club, which was previously owned by a great guy, Pat Ruddy, and his family. It is reported to have been sold recently for €35 million. Pat designed and built this course himself and is, by profession, a great golf course designer. The European is considered to be one of the best and most challenging links courses in the world. Tiger Woods played here on several occasions before competing in the Open at St Andrews. About five kilometres further on, I came across a stretch of road that would appear to have been built using large rectangular slabs of concrete joined by a sliver of tarmacadam, which seemed bizarre. Needless to say, it is a very bumpy stretch for motorcycles. I passed through Arklow, before weaving and dodging my way onto the R772 for Gorey. Now, this great stretch of road was once the main route from Dublin to everywhere in the 'Sunny South East'. What will take an hour to travel on the M11 now would have taken anything up to two hours then, and yet we did it with a car full of kids asking: 'Are we there yet? ' I bypassed Gorey and arrived in Courtown, where everyone from Dublin was legally bound to visit every summer. It's a rite of passage that every Dub visits Courtown, Co. Wexford at least once in their life! Pic: Supplied When my kids were a lot younger, I had a mobile home in Killmuckridge, just down the coast road from Courtown, where my then better half and the kids spent most of the summer. I'd pop down every weekend to assume responsibility for entertaining the kids whilst the Mrs enjoyed a well-earned break from family duties. I have great memories of entertaining my young family in Courtown on a wet and miserable weekend in the sunny southeast. Our favourite spot was Pirates Cove — a small, mainly indoor activity park. This place has everything to take a bored child's mind off the rain for at least two hours. Adventure Golf, Bumper Boats, Bubble Rollers, Jeeps, Pirates Splat Shooting, Pirates Express Train, Bowling and on and on. You can check it all out here — take note, you may need it someday! Pirates Cove is a lifesaver on rainy days if you have a car full of screaming kids. Pic: Supplied Enough nostalgia — next stop, Ballygarrett on the R742 for a spot of crab fishing at Cahore Beach. Now, all you need to catch a sand bucket full of tiny crabs is a net with a long handle on it — again, great entertainment for the Kids. Along the R742 are some lovely little towns and villages, which in the summer heave with holidaymakers from all over Ireland. Killmuckridge, Blackwater, and Curracloe are all joined by one of the best motorcycle roads in Ireland, and it bobs, ducks and weaves its way to Wexford Town. I didn't quite make it to Wexford Town as the rain came in and I opted to head home. My last stop, however, was at the most famous beach in Ireland, as the well-known beer ad says: 'Probably'. Curracloe Beach is the homeplace of the unforgettable D-Day invasion scenes in Spielberg's Saving Private Ryan. Pic: Supplied Curracloe Beach is where Steven Spielberg shot the D-Day invasion scenes for the film Saving Private Ryan. The scene involved approximately 1,500 people, including 400 crew members, 1,000 FCA members, 500 Irish Army soldiers, and dozens of extras. In the summer, this beach is as good, if not better, than any other golden-sanded beach in Ireland. One of the few remaining thatched cottages in Ireland today. Very well kept as well! Pic: Supplied As I departed Curracloe, I came across this thatched cottage, a rare sight in Ireland these days. I didn't quite make it to Wexford Town, but I did, however, avoid getting on any motorway or dual carriageway, and I loved every minute of driving on these secondary roads. They are the best roads for bike rides and weekend getaways. The road surfaces are impeccably maintained, there are great little towns to stop off in, there is little to no traffic, and it's rare to find a straight stretch that lasts more than 500 yards—biker heaven. Click this link to the Detecht map for the second leg of this run. Remember, when you open the map, enlarge it to see the details. Or to put it another way, Honda has produced over half a billion motorcycles. For most of us, owning a Honda, particularly a Honda 50, was a rite of passage. Pic: Honda Since its founding in 1948, Honda has developed and manufactured 500 million motorbikes, all based on its belief that 'the purpose of technology is to make people's lives easier'. For most of us, owning a Honda, particularly a Honda 50, was a rite of passage. I remember it well, the excitement and freedom my Honda 50 gave me was beyond description. Owning safety clothing was unheard of at the time. My denim flayers and surplus army jacket, with, of course, a great helmet, were all the protection I needed. Over the years, I owned a Goldwing, a Deauville and a Magnum V4. All of which were brilliant in their own way and, unbelievably, rarely gave me trouble. Honda built their first factory outside of Japan in Belgium in 1963. This would have been to cater for the growing demand for their bikes in Europe. Now they are truly a global brand with manufacturing units in 23 countries. I've always had a soft spot for Honda, and it's not just because of their bikes! Pic: Honda I have a big soft spot for Honda, not just because of the bikes I owned, but because when I was in my early 20s, I handled their advertising account in Ireland. Reg Armstrong was the distributor at the time, and the bikes would arrive in Ireland fully assembled. However, to create jobs during one of Ireland's many recessions, the Government offered significant tax incentives for production projects in Ireland, so everything changed. The bikes came disassembled in crates, and they were then reassembled in Reg's factory near Ringsend. Thus, production took place, jobs were created, and the company benefited from excellent tax relief. Honda began mass production of motorcycles at its first overseas production facility in Belgium in 1963, and since then, has expanded its production globally, adhering to its fundamental principle of 'producing locally where there is demand'. Honda exceeded their 20-million-unit target in 2018… is it any wonder why? Pic: Honda As a result, Honda achieved its 100 million-unit milestone in 1997, its 200 million-unit milestone in 2008, and its 300 million-unit milestone in 2014. In 2018, Honda's annual production exceeded 20 million units for the first time in its history, and global cumulative output reached 40 million units in 2019. Although the annual production of all motorcycles temporarily declined due to COVID-19 in 2020, demand has steadily recovered worldwide to pre-pandemic levels. Currently, Honda has 37 manufacturing units in 23 countries and a dealer network of 30,000. Pic: Honda In addition to petrol-driven models, Honda began producing electric-powered two-wheelers in 2024, presumably to support its goal of achieving carbon neutrality across all products and corporate activities by 2050. They have begun launching new models to meet the global demand for electric-powered vehicles. Currently, Honda has 37 manufacturing units in 23 countries and a dealer network of 30,000. Here is the history of Honda's most iconic models that have been produced to date. Pic: Supplied All I can say is a massive congratulations to Honda and thanks for all the bikes. For those looking for a bit of nostalgia, here's a link to a video Honda has produced to celebrate 25YM HONDA GL1800 GOLD WING & GOLD WING TOUR. Here is a link to Honda's 500,000,000 production celebration video for anyone interested. My first impression of the KTM 890 SMT was that it was very sleek and stylish, but didn't strike me as a tourer. KTM delivers power that is smooth and precise, no matter where you're taking it. Pic: KTM Once on the road, it felt light, responsive and powerful. If KTM took a shot of espresso and went on a Euro trip, the result would be the KTM 890 SMT. It's a great blend of supermoto and touring sensibility. Whether you're carving through a Spanish mountain pass or just dusting off your morning commute, the KTM delivers power which is smooth and precise. The gearbox is so smooth, I found myself glancing at the 5-inch screen to see if it had engaged. I'm not a huge fan of cruise control, but I liked it on the 890. I had visions of myself cruising along, with not a worry in the world, on my way to the Bikefest in Killarney this weekend. Let's return to the 5-inch TFT dashboard for a moment. The KTM 890 SMT is compatible with the KTM Connect app, which can be downloaded to a smartphone and then synced to the bike. From the app, you can follow turn-by-turn navigational guidance, make and take calls, listen to music, view the owner's manual, and more. Now that's what I call smart. KTM now features cornering ABS, allowing you to utilise full braking power in corners. Pic: KTM I understand that the new, improved MTC (Motorcycle Traction Control) offers superb grip. I didn't try it myself, but KTM has included cornering ABS, allowing you to use full braking power in corners. A very clever 6D-sensor monitors and evaluates the bike's dynamic state, and the ABS responds appropriately, ensuring safety and stability during braking. I thought this would be very handy if I encountered a sheep on a bend in Wicklow. As I headed towards Bray, I understood why this is a touring bike. The seat was really comfortable and it tooted along with ease. It passed my handling test in a small housing estate and on a couple of roundabouts as well, so thumbs up all round. It also comes with my favourite riding modes, Wet, Dry, and Fast, as standard. An optional Track Mode is also available in case you feel like taking it for a spin around Mondello. If you're planning on going touring, I would recommend KTM for your needs! Pic: KTM I couldn't help thinking this KTM is like a magnificent stallion; once you slide into the saddle and take control of it, you'll enjoy many years of exhilarating riding. I also say that because KTM is offering a 4-year warranty on this bike, which endorses their confidence that the 890 SMT is so advanced and superbly engineered that little to nothing will go wrong with it — I imagine the usual terms and conditions apply. I would recommend some KTM addons if you decide to go touring. A windshield spoiler would add greater protection from the wind on long runs. They also have a cool tank bag, heated grips and a Touratech top box. I like my comforts so that they would be on my list of must-haves. This model typically costs around €16,499, but you can currently purchase one for just over € 14,000. Pic: KTM In my opinion, the 890 SMT will provide you with all the thrill you want, along with the comfort you need. It's what KTM do! Charles at Two Wheels Motorcycles tells me that this stallion would usually cost around €16,599, but it's currently priced at €14,149 — you can use your savings to buy loads of extras! Executive chef at Anantara, at the five-star Marker Dublin Hotel, Gareth Mullins has delighted patrons of five-star hotels in Ireland and Australia for over 20 years. Throughout his career, Gareth has achieved extraordinary culinary success, including being appointed Head of Euro-Toques Ireland — a community of like-minded chefs, cooks, producers, and educators that celebrates the best of Ireland's food and drink. Gareth Mullins, executive chef at Anantara The Marker Dublin. Pic: Supplied Gareth is also well known for his tips and recipes on Pat Kenny's radio show – and, of course, is a keen biker. I have been on bikes since I was 17. I bought a Suzuki Katana 50CC; it was brand new and had a restrictor, so the maximum speed was 40 kilometres per hour. I let one of my friends take a go, and he drove it into a parked van, bending the forks. A set of new forks and I was back motoring in no time 17! My brother Paul always had bikes, so I loved them since I can remember. After the Suzuki, I bought a Vespa, which I loved, but I eventually got tired of pushing it because it was always breaking down, likely due to its Taffspeed exhaust. Too much power for the engine. My first real motorbike was a BMW GS 650, I had to do the test, but it's all good. Funny story: The speedometer cable snapped on my way to the test, so I had to guess my speed, but I still passed all the same! I did! I had been driving bikes for years before actually doing the test. I now ride a Harley Softtail FXSTD, it's a lovely bike. Before this, I had a Harley Sportster 1200, and I did a custom job on this bike. This was the bike that I have been on more ride-outs on. A couple of years back, I went with a few lads, including my brother Paul, all around Wicklow and Sally's Gap, a cracking place to ride motorcycles. The challenge I had was a cool peanut-sized petrol tank, which looks class but held hardly any juice. I spent most of the time looking for petrol stations, but that was half the craic, nothing better than spinning around with mates on big noisy bikes. I did hit some black ice on a winter's morning on a roundabout, broke a bone in my hand, but not too much damage to the bike, so it was all good. My wife does approve of me owning bikes, as I have had one for most of my adult life. They are a safe way to travel if ridden with caution and care. The challenge, which any biker will tell you, is that people take risks in cars. It's crazy how many people use their phones in cars; you have to be switched on and watch for their silly mistakes. Not yet, but it's definitely on my to-do list. I can see this happening now that my kids are getting a little older. Take all the available safety courses, and start with a bike that suits a beginner. Motorbikes need to be respected; learning how to ride correctly is an absolute non-negotiable Learn how to use your gears and clutch to slow the bike. Watch for gravel, especially if you're fond of your front brake. Take it handy and you will love bikes for your whole life. Finally, invest in a good lid and proper jacket, boots, and trousers. Don't buy cheap gear, as it could save your life. This Australian grandmother is riding across Europe for the next two months on an Indian Chief Vintage motorcycle. The Creative Cruiser (also known as Christine Fisher Keeble) is travelling across Ireland over the next fortnight. Pic: Supplied Her name is Christine Fisher Keeble, and she calls her bike Calamity. The weight of her Indian, fully loaded, is 500 kg. She is an artist, barber, and has even written some stage musicals that toured Australia. Her slogan is 'Adventure before Dementia' — now that I can buy into. Please take a look at this video to learn more about her. Christine was in Ireland last week and is hilarious. She tells it as it is and doesn't pull any punches. The biker was not impressed by how expensive Ireland is, however. The cost of fuel, food and particularly accommodation has shocked her. You can catch up on the latest instalment of her trip (Kilkenny – Cork – Rock of Cashel – Cahir Castle) here. Christine's fully loaded Indian… how does she ride it? Pic: supplied Christine met a group of French bikers on her run, which highlights the number of bikers, who are typically high-net-worth individuals, who come to Ireland on their bikes to tour. My great friend and riding buddy, Ger Colleran, and I did five days in Normandy last year, and we couldn't believe the number of European bikers coming to Ireland and returning home on the ferry. You can check out The Creative Cruiser here, and listen to the song that was written about her by clicking this link.


Times
14-05-2025
- Times
I've stayed in over 100 places in Ireland. These are my favourites
I didn't mean to move to Ireland. Originally the plan was to come over for a couple of months, live on a little island off the west coast, then move on. But those couple of months turned into a couple of years and, before I knew it, I'd spent almost two decades living in various parts of Ireland, from a village in the wild northwest to the middle of Dublin, where I'm now based. While it wasn't exactly a thought-out decision (few of mine are), there's something about Irish life that suits me. And no, I don't mean the tired old tropes about rowdy pubs and excessive drinking — you'll never catch me in Dublin's boozy Temple Bar quarter. It's the wide, open landscapes that I love, especially in the summer: the coastal hikes that end in a platter of oysters, the saunas next to freezing cold lakes and the countryside cottages where you can drink wine out on the patio with the coconutty smell of gorse flowers in the air. And there are plenty of places all around Ireland where I can do just that. The Irish Landmark Trust owns and preserves 33 properties on the island, from thatched cottages to fairytale towers, and they're usually my first port of call when I fancy a cosy, homely stay. Then there are the quirkier, cooler properties, like the lakeside cabins in Cavan that feel like an American summer camp, or a geodesic dome built halfway up a tree in the wilds of Connemara. And you can still get those same comfy vibes in a hotel by lounging on the fireside sofas in Ballynahinch Castle, or even opting for a stylish townhouse in Dublin. I have my favourite corners of the country too. Most people stick to the same area when they come to Ireland but while Kerry, Cork and Galway are beautiful, I'll always have a soft spot for the northwest — the wind-battered cliffs of Co Donegal, or the dark, mossy woodlands of Leitrim, where the trees are dripping with lichen (a sign of clean air). The scenery is every bit as stunning but you're not vying for space at lookout points or getting stuck behind coach tours at every turn. For the sake of this list I've included stays all over the island of Ireland. Here are some of my favourite spots to inspire your next trip. This article contains affiliate links that can earn us revenue Whenever I'm dreaming of a cosy escape, Cabu is at the top of my list. On a huge woodland estate on the banks of Lough Oughter, in the heart of the midlands, this spot has 28 one to three-bedroom cabins. They're spread throughout the forest, with some on stilts overlooking the treetops and others along the edge of the lake. Though they look a little ramshackle from the outside, inside it's all log-cabin chic, with Aztec rugs, deep squishy couches and wood-burning stoves. Up in the main lodge you can toast marshmallows and drink crémant by the fire pits or soak in the outdoor hot tubs. The lake is perfect for paddleboarding or summer swims Two nights' self-catering for two from £453 ( Fly or take the ferry to Dublin This subtly luxe two-bedroom cottage on the grounds of the historic Lissadell House is a dream. It's right on the beach — any closer to the sea and you'd get wet — and it's one of those places that fits the bill whatever the weather is doing. You can go for a long walk on the beach, take a soak in the huge rolltop bath or sit in the top-floor window seat and watch the wild Atlantic waves batter the sands. And the finishes befit the price tag: the kitchen is top of the line, a serious art collection lines the walls and there's antique furniture wherever you Three nights' self-catering for four from £1,299 ( Fly to Knock This is the kind of hotel that's as good in the blazing sun, when you can cycle to Roundstone for crab claws, as it is when it's tipping down, which gives you an excuse to cuddle up by the fire and play Scrabble. Wherever you find yourself, you're met with cracking views of the Connemara mountains through the arched windows, or the reflection of the 18th-century castle if you walk the riverside trail. Its new sauna is right on the lake, so you can alternate between sweating and swimming, and the breakfast — featuring a giant, hand-carved ham — is one of the best in the B&B doubles from £264 ( Fly to Knock A main road in Dublin's city centre, Camden Street is fairly hectic and noisy. But once the heavy door of this converted townhouse closes behind you, all that madness falls away (particularly as you're handed a free glass of bubbles at check-in). With seven rooms, Number 59 is more intimate guesthouse than hotel but it's one that is full of cool design touches such as pink walls, a massive velvet sofa in the bar and hessian rugs in the bedrooms. Bear in mind that the two rooms at the front of the building aren't as quiet — those listed windows can't compete with all the street noise. The Iveagh Gardens are just around the corner so nip there to lounge in the park or breathe in the smell of the rose B&B doubles from £108 ( Fly or take the ferry to Dublin Up on this jagged, cliff-lined peninsula in Donegal, Fanad Lighthouse pokes up from the lush green headland and stands guard over the sea — and while it's now automated, it's still an active lighthouse. Visitors pop in for tours throughout the day but, when the centre shuts up shop, it's the sole domain of those staying in the lighthouse keeper's cottages at its base. It's a perfect spot for peace and quiet. There's nothing to be seen for miles bar the herd of nearby Highland cows and seabirds flitting between the cliffs. Inside, things are lovely and cosy, with small stoves and battered Two nights' self-catering for two from £293 ( Fly to Londonderry or Belfast Ballymaloe is a hallowed name in the Irish food scene — the Allen family bought this country house in 1948, opened it as a restaurant in 1964 and have been running it as a hotel since 1967. And their nearby cookery school has become a springboard for many restaurateurs and chefs, which explains why the food is so damn good. The menu, like the aesthetic, leans towards the traditional (think roast beef and dessert trolleys) but it all works perfectly. There are 33 bedrooms, with floral wallpaper and padded headboards, and some have terraces overlooking the gardens. The nearby Ballycotton cliff walk is a great spot for a seaside B&B doubles from £285 ( Fly to Cork • 16 of the best family hotels in Ireland It can be tough to strike the perfect balance between traditional 'cottagecore' aesthetics and the modern touches you need to keep things practical. These converted townhouse cottages, which can be rented separately or together, have found that middle ground — there's exposed stone and wood-burning stoves but also Sage coffee machines, underfloor heating and wi-fi. And the soft touches are beautiful, with Irish linen, tweed throws and local ceramics. There are five cottages in total, spread around a communal courtyard garden, and they sleep between two and six people. As the name suggests, you're right in the village of Roundstone, with its charming harbour and excellent pubs such as O'Dowd's (great for seafood and Guinness).Details Two nights' self-catering for two from £360 ( Fly to Knock There are several accommodation options on the grounds of Mount Congreve, an 18th-century country house in Waterford with expansive (and seriously impressive) gardens. You could go for an off-grid one-bed bell tent, with Foxford blankets and a wood-burning stove, or the more swish eco cabins for two or four people, which have underfloor heating and a private hot tub. But the two-bedroom gate lodges have a unique charm, with a dark, gothic colour scheme, antique beds and velvet wingback armchairs. Whichever you opt for, you can make the most of the after-hours access to the historic gardens to explore without any other visitors Two nights' self-catering for two from £243 ( Fly or take the ferry to Dublin • 17 of the best luxury hotels in Ireland In my eyes, the best kind of country house hotel is one that feels as if it's barely changed in decades. I want well-worn armchairs, clusters of mismatching display plates on the walls and stacks of books by the fireplace (which is always kept burning, naturally). The 18th-century Rathmullan House fits that mould to a tee. The four separate lounges and library feel intimate enough that you may just get them to yourself, and the 31 bedrooms all have a cutesy, traditional feel. There's a direct pathway from the hotel down to the beach if you fancy a cold dip in Lough Swilly before warming your cockles in the hotel's heated B&B doubles from £168 ( Fly or take the ferry to Belfast While the main Georgian house is the private domain of the Fennell family, guests can book a stay in the property's converted stables. The owners, James and Joanna Fennell, lived in this stable yard when they were first married so it feels like a home, albeit one designed by people with impeccable taste. The studio apartment has huge windows and doors that flood the space with light, and the shelves are overflowing with books, some of which are the work of the photographer James. The larger property sleeps up to six and both have access to the courtyard garden, filled with lavender bushes and clay plant pots. It's less than an hour from Dublin, and Blessington Lake is a 30-minute drive One night's self-catering for two from £159 ( Fly or take the ferry to Dublin This geodesic dome is built into the treetops on a working farm. Waking up to the sound of birdsong, as the sun rises and gently illuminates the woodland, is like forest bathing for those who can't be bothered to go outside. There's also an architecturally impressive stilt house on the grounds, with a fire-heated outdoor bath and giant windows overlooking the wilds, and the lakeside sauna is a One night's room-only from £251 ( Fly to Knock On a vast farm perched on the clifftops in east Cork, this converted barn is filled to the brim with overstuffed bookshelves, armoires and kitchen shelves stacked with mismatching crockery. The spacious living room has a deep sofa and opens out to a courtyard, more often than not populated with the owner's dogs or rambling chickens. The kitchen comes fully equipped with decent cookery gear such as Le Creuset casserole dishes and proper knives. As well as the two-bedroom barn, there's a separate studio apartment and a coastal cabin, with great views over the cliffs from the floor-to-ceiling windows. There's a great farmers' market every Saturday in nearby Midleton, and you can pop into the Jameson distillery for a tour and a One night's self-catering for two from £150 ( Fly to Cork This new guesthouse has been years in the making and has strong rewilding principles at its core. The setting, in a former dairy farm just outside the bohemian village of Ballydehob in west Cork, is ideal for a complete break from reality. There are just three rooms in the guesthouse, formerly a farmhouse known for its céilís (dances), and in September they'll be launching snazzy new cabins. Until then you can snuggle under linen-clad duvets and make use of the sauna and cold plunges in the courtyard. This corner of the country is ridiculously beautiful — catch the ferry from Baltimore to Cape Clear, the Irish-speaking island that's the southernmost point in B&B doubles from £168 ( Fly to Cork You can't go wrong with any of the heritage properties run by the Irish Landmark Trust but this city centre hideaway brings a dose of countryside charm to the middle of Dublin. The 18th-century coachman's cottage is set above the working stables for the Irish police horses, and has a great view over the nearby Georgian townhouses and their fancy private gardens. The three double rooms have wood-panelled walls, super soft bedding and antique furniture, and there's a big rolltop bath too. The National Gallery of Ireland is just around the corner, as is the grand Merrion Square Two nights' self-catering for six from £788 ( Fly or take the ferry to Dublin Deep in the lush green mountains of the Iveragh peninsula in the southwest, this remote two-bedroom cottage may look like a traditional dwelling from the outside but those thick stone walls hide a thoughtfully preserved and chic interior. The whitewashed walls and exposed beams in the living room make for an inviting hangout but you'll probably want to spend most of your time in the main bedroom, where the giant picture window overlooks the lake below. Alternatively, the sunken bath has a glass roof, so you can lie back and do some stargazing — the cottage is in Ireland's first Dark Sky Reserve, after Four nights' self-catering for two from £1,195 ( Fly to Cork There's a bit of a French château feel to the five rooms in Mossie's B&B, with delicate toile florals on the walls, ornate wrought iron beds and antique sconces. The best rooms have great views out over the ocean, and one has a private balcony and claw-foot slipper bath to boot. The gorgeous Beara peninsula is on your doorstep, including the Healy Pass, one of the most scenic drives in Ireland. It also has a slick converted workshop in the garden if you prefer to go self-catering, with exposed brick walls, copper detailing and a handmade super-king bed overlooking the sycamore B&B doubles from £130 ( Fly to Cork With 16 lodges spaced out between ancient woodland on a 100-acre country estate, Drumhierny embraces the surrounding nature with giant glass-fronted cabins, from A-frame designs to more discreet lodges. Things are kept simple on the inside but the main selling point is the view out to the forest. The outdoor spa in the old walled garden is a dream: you can soak in baths full of seaweed or dip in the hot tubs, with towering oak trees and twittering birds for company. There's a lovely pub, Beirnes of Battlebridge, a ten-minute stroll away, and you can hike or bike on the canalside footpath right by the estate Two nights' self-catering for six from £502 ( Fly to Knock For a few years it felt like there were countless yurts popping up all around Ireland but Lough Mardal is one of the few that has stood the test of time. These plush skydome yurts are well spaced out so you feel as if you're in the middle of nowhere. They're placed on individual decks, which is great if the weather is on your side, but if it gets wild the wood-burners keep things nice and toasty, and the plush bed is piled high with blankets and a feathery duvet. You can make use of the kitchen in the communal lodge and its new lakeside sauna and swimming jetty is perfect for summer swims. Just beyond, the wildness of the Donegal coast is great for mountain One night's self-catering for two from £124 ( Fly to Knock These three cottages, on a gated patch of land a few minutes' walk from the pubs and craic of Westport town, vary between an old Irish style and a more Scandi vibe. The cart house, right on the edge of the river, is a one-bedroom where the water flows right by the windows and everything, from the linen bedsheets to the hessian carpets, is designed with comfort in mind. If there's a big gang of you, the main house is ideal, with an ample kitchen, comfy living room and seven en suite One night's self-catering for two from £126 ( Fly to Knock Set on a curved tail of land just north of Sligo town, Rosses Point packs a hell of a lot into a small village — a wide, white sand beach, excellent pubs and a cracking restaurant, the Driftwood. And right upstairs you'll find eight boutique bedrooms, the best with a rolltop bath by the window so you can soak in Voya scented bubbles as you look out over the sea. It also has a newly renovated studio apartment nearby, with floor-to-ceiling views of the water, just a two-minute walk from the beach and the popular waterfront Room-only doubles from £80 ( Fly to Knock An Irish Landmark property, this one-bedroom lodge is essentially a miniature castle, with its own turrets, battlements and spiral staircase. Inside, the medieval touches are softened with overstuffed armchairs, granny-chic rugs and a big rolltop bath, but if the weather is in any way nice there's also a rooftop terrace where you can eat your dinner. It's on the grounds of the 18th-century Glenarm Castle, with a gigantic walled garden and charming little tearoom, and you might even see the resident rescue hedgehogs snuffling around the Two nights' self-catering for two from £331 ( Fly or take the ferry to Belfast • Read our full guide to Northern Ireland I feel most glamping pods have had their day but the one-bedroom cabins at Enniskeen have a unique aesthetic, and are spaced well apart in the wild forests of Tollymore, about 45 minutes' drive from Belfast. Each has a USP — one is in an apple orchard right on the riverbanks, another regularly gets deer walking past the giant windows and the last has a brilliant view of the nearby mountains. A breakfast hamper is delivered each morning so you can tuck into organic sausage sandwiches and warm pastries in bed as you watch the morning light move over the countryside. Oh, and each has a private wood-fired hot B&B doubles from £288 ( Fly or take the ferry to Belfast This hotel looks a little bit like a villain's lair, the red-brick turrets rising up from a height overlooking Newcastle beach. But inside, the vibe is gothic hunting lodge, with dark floral wallpaper, giant fireplaces and mounted deer heads on the wall. The 180 restyled rooms keep that feel going, with panelled walls and tartan carpets, while the stylish restaurant JJ Farrall's is so good you won't need to leave the joint — think rich sticky game, local lamb with spring peas and triple-cooked chips. There's loads of excellent hiking in the nearby Mourne Mountains, and the beach is good for B&B doubles from £165 ( Fly or take the ferry to Belfast • 15 of the best things to do in Northern Ireland You can't get much cosier than a roaring fire, a dram of local whiskey and a low puddle of light from a gas lamp. And that's just what you get at Bushmills Inn, just a few minutes away from the whiskey distillery of the same name. In this historic inn the 41 rooms come with exposed beams, four-poster beds and huge baths, and there's a tiny hidden library and a cinema where movie nights are held on Thursdays. The restaurant specialises in comfort food like Guinness and onion soup, marrow beef burgers and sticky toffee pudding, all of which you'll be craving if you visit the blustery Giant's B&B doubles from £175 ( Fly or take the ferry to Belfast Every corner of this boutique hotel, from the cheeky wallpaper in the room dubbed the 'booboir' to the leopard-print chairs in the bar, is deliciously eccentric. The smallest rooms are compact but the suites, with oodles of room and huge rolltop baths, are a delight, and named after inspirational folk with a local connection, such as CS Lewis and the artist Helen Trevor. Touches such as record players and vinyl, medicine cabinets stuffed with antique jars and four-poster beds make for an elevated, fun and endlessly comfy stay. The surrounding Queen's Quarter, with top-notch restaurants and shops, is a great place to make your base in B&B doubles from £120 ( Fly or take the ferry to Belfast Have we missed any? Share your favourite Ireland stay in the comments