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Eater
16-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Eater
One of New York's Essential Vegan Restaurants Is Closing
One of New York's biggest vegan chefs is closing her Brooklyn vegan comfort food restaurant this summer. Owner Isa Chandra Moskowitz will shutter Modern Love at 317 Union Avenue, near South First Street in Williamsburg, sometime in June, after eight years of service. Moskowitz tells Eater via email that she had to close Modern Love basically because the business model wasn't working, and she had 'to change our entire concept.' The pandemic shift to more deliveries and takeout business 'isn't sustainable for a sit-down restaurant,' she explains. While the restaurant does offer pickup and delivery orders (and, according to her, sales were good), 'it's impossible to absorb the cuts that third-party apps take.' At the same time, earlier in April, Moskowitz urged people to visit the restaurant so she could raise money to fix the air conditioning, opting not to go the GoFundMe route. This isn't the end for Modern Love, though — Moskowitz wants to relocate the restaurant with a different service model. She hasn't set a last date of service yet. Fellow vegan restaurants like Seasoned Vegan (which also closed in late April) and Toad Style flocked to the Instagram announcement post to share their love and condolences for the restaurant, known for its American vegan comfort food. Meanwhile, fans like singer and musician Ted Leo chimed in, writing that the restaurant is 'the best and we're here for whatever you do next, my friend.' The restaurant was known for its American vegan comfort food, which New York Magazine described as ' innovative, plant-based renderings of various hearty classics.' That includes dishes like the mushroom fried chick'n, truffled poutine, and the cashew cheddar macaroni. Brooklyn-native Moskowitz is one of New York's earlier vegan leaders. She hosted her own cooking show, Post Punk Kitchen , from 2003 to 2005; and wrote cookbooks like Vegan with a Vengeance (2005) and Veganomicon (2007). And actually, she first opened Modern Love in Omaha in 2013. Then she expanded into Brooklyn in 2016. The Nebraska location moved addresses in 2018 and ended up closing in late 2024. Sign up for our newsletter.
The Guardian
04-05-2025
- General
- The Guardian
How to make the perfect vegan caesar salad – recipe
If I've learned anything from almost 40 days of plant-based eating, it's that an homage doesn't have to be indistinguishable from the original to hit the same spot; it simply needs to sing equivalent notes to much the same tune. Those notes, in this case, are a green salad, a thick, umami-spiked dressing and savoury croutons, all tossed in a pitch-perfect combination of flavours (milky lettuce, salty fish, rich fat) and textures (crisp leaves, creamy dressing, crunchy toasted bread). So, while the recipe below isn't pretending to be an authentic classic caesar, consider it a very decent and, I hope, similarly pleasing cover version. The caesar is a simple salad, however much people like to complicate it with toppings and other nonsense (of which more later), which means it stands and falls on its dressing. Yes, we can and will argue about whether it's acceptable to deviate from the usual cos lettuce, but, really, the leaves are a mere vehicle to convey this rich, fiercely savoury substance from bowl to mouth; a fig leaf of fibre floating on a lake of 'good' fats. The problem here is that, in its original form, the dressing, which gets its substance from egg yolk and much of its flavour from salty little anchovies, is very much not vegan-friendly. My first task was to replace the egg yolk. I tried several bases: cashews, as recommended by Becky Hughes in the New York Times; almonds and silken tofu, as used by Isa Chandra Moskowitz and Terry Hope Romero in their book Veganomicon; Ashley Madden's tahini, from her Plant-Based Cookbook; and Ixta Belfrage's coconut yoghurt and Tom Hunt's aquafaba, both from the Guardian recipe archive. All work, but my testers and I aren't overly keen on the flavour of coconut here, and find the cashews a little sweet and grainy – soaking, we surmise, might have helped with the texture, or perhaps I might just need to invest in a more powerful blender (there seems to be a lot of blending involved in vegan cookery, I'm discovering). Silken tofu and tahini both work well, the former giving a lighter, creamier result that's more reminiscent of that other great American favourite, ranch dressing, and the latter blending in better than I anticipate, but the overall favourite is Hunt's aquafaba. This, for anyone new to Guardian food content, is the cooking water from tinned chickpeas (the cooking liquor of home-cooked ones is apparently less reliable, because the liquid can be less concentrated). Though some people find it has a slightly leguminous flavour, if you can taste it here you simply haven't added enough garlic. Once whizzed up with the same olive oil used in the classic caesar dressing, it has a surprisingly voluptuous richness that works a treat, especially with a few chickpeas thrown in to stabilise the emulsion, as suggested by J Kenji López-Alt on Serious Eats. The flavourings I find easier to pin down. In keeping with tradition, there will be garlic (I infuse the olive oil with it) and lemon juice, but instead of salty anchovies, I like the idea of Hughes and Veganomicon's caper brine. You could stick in some whole capers, too, as Hunt and Madden do, but I prefer the deeper, richer savouriness of Belfrage and Hughes' white miso paste (the lightest, sweetest variety, ideally). I prefer the miso to Hunt's vegan Worcestershire sauce, which, like Madden's cider vinegar and maple syrup combo, brings sweet-and-sour notes that I don't remember in the original. The same goes for the coconut sugar in Veganomicon's version and, much as I enjoy mustard (Madden uses dijon, Chandra Moskowitz and Hope Romero mustard powder), I don't think it has a place in a caesar dressing. To try to mimic a little of the maritime notes of the fish, I've crumbled in some of Hughes' roasted nori – my testers are divided as to whether the seaweed actually tastes anything like anchovies, or whether the effect is purely psychosomatic, but, because plant-based diets tend to be low in iodine, it feels like a good addition either way. I've also added some cheesy nutritional yeast, because, while the cheese goes on top of a traditional caesar salad, in this case it's useful to include another source of umami in the dressing itself. As usual, however, you may like to adjust to taste, adding more or less of any of the above as you fancy. As Madden writes: 'Kale caesar salads are popular for a good reason – they're incredible!' I first came across the idea in New York more than a decade ago and would echo her enthusiasm – the dressing clings to the frills of both her curly kale and Hughes' cavolo nero with far more enthusiasm than to even the most meticulously dried cos. But, having removed the eggs, anchovies and parmesan from the equation, I feel I at least ought to stick with the original lettuce. Should you be braver in the privacy of your own home, other suggestions include Belfrage's cucumber, Veganomicon's spinach or rocket and Hunt's wild sea kale, dulse and dandelion leaves (OK, I couldn't get hold of the sea kale in central London, but, Tom, I did raid the garden weeds for you and can confirm that well-rinsed dandelion leaves are deliciously bitter). Whatever you use, I'd recommend tearing or cutting it into bite-sized pieces, and drying it very well after washing, so the dressing coats it, rather than sliding off into a watery mess. You might also, as Belfrage does, fancy popping in some herbs – she suggests chives and basil, both of which pair beautifully with the other flavours here. Croutons are a must in a caesar salad – I like to keep them fairly simple and bite-sized. I bake them, but, as Hunt's recipe proves, they can be made successfully in a frying pan, too, which will use less energy, as would an air fryer. But you might like to get fancy and, like Belfrage, coat them in sesame seeds, maple syrup and chilli, or in Chandra Moskowitz and Hope Romero's roast garlic and lemon juice. Fried, air-fried or baked, make sure they're nice and crunchy, so leave the crusts on to help with that. Both Madden and Hughes top their salads with chickpeas – roasted until crisp in Hughes' case, fried in a smoky spice mix for Madden – while Hunt recommends walnuts. Your choice, but I don't think the salad needs either. But I do like it topped with a blizzard of parmesan, which is where Madden's 'cashew turmeric parmesan' comes in, made from blitzed nuts, sesame seeds, nutritional yeast and turmeric for colour. Sceptical as I am, I really enjoy it – it tastes more one-dimensionally, almost artificially 'cheesy' than actual parmesan, but with the creamy dressing and blandly crisp leaves as a foil, it works. That said, I've left out the sesame seeds in my copy-cat version, because I don't think they add anything to the experience. Heap it over the top, or replace with your favourite vegan parmesan alternative as you wish. If you want to bulk out the salad, top it with smoked tofu, seitan or similar, but I think it's pretty damn perfect as it is. Prep 15 min Cook 20 min Serves 2-4 as a side 1 thick slicecrusty bread (about 100g)Salt and black pepper1 large cos lettuce, or 2 little gems, washed and well dried For the dressing1 plump garlic clove 100ml olive oil 4 tbsp aquafaba (ie, the liquid from a tin of chickpeas)10 cooked chickpeas 6cm x 6cm piece dried nori, crumbled (optional)2 tbsp lemon juice 1 tbsp caper brine 2 tsp white miso paste 2 tbsp nutritional yeast For the cashew 'parmesan' (optional)35g unsalted cashews, plus a small handful extra to finish 2 tsp nutritional yeast ¼ tsp turmeric Scant ¼ tsp fine salt Crush the garlic into the oil and leave to infuse while you get on with everything else. Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6 and cut the bread, crusts and all, into crouton-sized chunks. Put these on a baking tray, drizzle over a little of the garlicky oil and sprinkle with salt. Toss the bread to coat, then bake for about 20 minutes, turning over once halfway, until golden all over. Meanwhile, put the aquafaba, chickpeas, nori, lemon juice, caper brine, miso and nutritional yeast in a container just wide enough to fit the head of a stick blender. Whizz until completely smooth, then, still whizzing, gradually trickle in the remaining garlic-infused oil, running it slowly down the side of the container, until you have a creamy dressing. Season to taste. In a mini chopper, pulse all the ingredients for the cashew 'parmesan', if making,until reduced to a rough powder; don't overdo it, though, or you'll end up with nut butter. Tear the lettuce into bite-sized pieces and put them in a large bowl. Add just over half the dressing and a good spoonful of the cashew mixture, if using, and toss to coat (add more dressing, if necessary). Transfer to a serving bowl or plates, then top with the croutons, a sprinkle of extra cashews and a good grind of black pepper. Serve with the rest of the dressing on the side, for people to add as they wish. Vegan caesar salad – assuming the very concept doesn't have you rushing for the anchovies and eggs, what's the secret to success? And, given how much fun this piece was to research, which other classic recipes would you like to see plant-based alternatives for?
New York Times
15-03-2025
- General
- New York Times
Eggs Are Scarce. These People Don't Miss Them.
It's an awful time for omelets in America. Because of rising bird flu rates, egg prices are soaring: Cartons of a dozen that were once under $2 throughout the country now cost $5.90 on average. In New York City, bodegas are selling loosies, three eggs for $2.99 a pop. The restaurant chain Waffle House has implemented an extra surcharge of 50 cents per egg. Some supermarket shelves are empty. What was once a staple has become a source of panic. But not for everyone. 'I invented not having eggs, so it's fine for me,' jokes the chef and cookbook author Isa Chandra Moskowitz, 52, who opened the vegan restaurant Modern Love in the Williamsburg section of Brooklyn in 2016. It's also fine for those who simply don't like eggs. They're not vegan or allergic, morally or biologically opposed. Their response is visceral — as the director Alfred Hitchcock, perhaps the world's most famous ovaphobe, once attempted to explain: 'That white round thing without any holes, and when you break it, inside there's that yellow thing, round, without any holes … brr! Have you ever seen anything more revolting than an egg yolk breaking and spilling its yellow liquid?' Guy Fieri, the 57-year-old television chef, has compared scrambled eggs both 'texturally and visually' to 'liquid chicken.' 'I hate them,' says Sandra Felix, 37, the chef de cuisine at Sqirl, in the Virgil Village neighborhood of Los Angeles, which opened in 2012 and soon became beloved for its egg-topped salads and rice bowls. 'The way the yolk is bright yellow, but the whites are transparent, but then it's completely liquid — it's all those things.' She's discussed it with her therapist. American eggs, long the domain of backyard hens, became easier to buy and store around the turn of the 20th century, the result of advances like artificial incubation and refrigeration. At the end of World War II, consumption was up to more than 400 eggs annually per person (it now hovers around 281) and, by the 1950s, cheap eggs had become a supermarket standby. But while eggs have been heavily researched — scientists recently discovered a process for making a perfectly boiled one (it takes 32 minutes) — there's little data on how many people hate them. 'As far as I know, no one's studied the psychology of eating eggs,' says Paul Rozin, 88, an emeritus professor at the University of Pennsylvania who researches disgust. If you ask around, though, the egg haters will eventually reveal themselves: The former food editor Denise Mickelsen, 48, began her tenure at Denver's 5280 magazine with the 2017 column 'True Story: I Hate Eggs.' Most people are 'mystified' and 'shocked' by her antipathy, she says, while others quietly confess to her that they feel the same. Sometimes food aversions have an inciting childhood incident, such as misery or vomiting, but often there's no traumatic history. The scent is one possible explanation: In certain preparations, eggs give off a sulfurous tang, which evokes 'a bodily odor' or a 'smell of digestion,' says Rachel Herz, 61, a neuroscientist at Brown University and the author of 'Why You Eat What You Eat: The Science Behind Our Relationship With Food' (2018). But a fresh raw egg should have no smell at all. The fundamental problem, experts propose, is the way it feels in the mouth. 'It's some combination of being an animal product and having a mucoid texture,' says Rozin. It doesn't help that there's irregularity between the yolk and the white — not only does each part taste and look different but they cook differently too. 'The emotion of disgust is really to keep us alive,' Herz says. 'One of the cues to contamination is irregular texture.' Egg haters generally don't hate them in every form. 'I eat mayonnaise, and I can eat a souffle, if it's not too eggy,' says Colman Andrews, 80, the egg-averse co-founder of the food magazine Saveur. (It's their inherent moisture, he says, that he 'just cannot handle.') Cynthia Christensen, 62, the New Jersey-based cook and recipe developer behind the blog But First We Brunch, has similar misgivings — 'it just can't be a wet egg.' To the extent she can explain it, she blames her upbringing: Every morning for 'at least a year' when she was around six, she says, her mother would have her suck back a raw egg straight from the shell for strength and stamina. No surprise, her older brother doesn't eat eggs either. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.
