Latest news with #Japow
Telegraph
23-03-2025
- Telegraph
Forget Innsbruck, for a truly unique city-ski break consider Otaru
'Kiroro is closed', said the bus driver crossing both arms in front of his face to create an 'X', a traditional Japanese gesture to indicate 'no'. Seeing the look of confusion on our faces, he continued, 'there is too much snow.' Too much snow is not a problem I encounter often when skiing, but then it's not every day that I ski in Hokkaido, one of the snowiest places on earth. My family and I had arrived in the small port city of Otaru a day earlier. Located on the western edge of Japan's northernmost island, the snow had been falling furiously for days, dumping close to half a metre of deep powder in 48 hours. Japan's Hokkaido has long topped the list of dream destinations for skiers. Its snow – light, powdery and plentiful – is said to be among the best in the world and skiers travel from across the globe to experience the legendary Japow (Japanese powder snow). Niseko is the most famous of more than 100 ski resorts on the island, but reports of overcrowding and viral videos of long lift queues didn't appeal. Plus, when travelling this far – at least 14 hours' flight time from the UK – it seemed a shame not to include some sightseeing along with our skiing. A new skiing culture City-ski breaks are on the rise; anecdotal evidence suggests that more and more skiers are keen to combine culture with carving tracks. One of the most popular European destinations for such a break is Innsbruck in Austria. Initiatives such as its SKI Plus CITY Pass – which gives access to the 12 surrounding ski resorts as well as 22 sights and attractions in the city – are incentivising visitors, including two thirds of British guests, to base themselves in the city during their winter break. At the other side of the world, roughly 25 miles and 30 minutes by train from Hokkaido's capital, Sapporo, Otaru is a unique alternative to its European counterpart. The city is surrounded by mountains on three sides with the Sea of Japan to the north. It was once the heart of Japan's herring industry and giant warehouses still stand alongside its picturesque canal. It was also the centre of Hokkaido's economy and, between the late 19th and early 20th centuries, 25 banks lined the city streets lending Otaru the nickname, the 'Wall Street of the North'. Today, the grand old bank buildings have been transformed into shops, restaurants and museums. We based ourselves at the OMO5 Otaru by Hoshino Resorts. Housed within the city's former Chamber of Commerce, it was the perfect choice catering to both keen skiers, with a boot room and complimentary ski waxing bar, and to curious tourists, with regular staff-led guided tours to some of the city's most popular spots. One morning, we joined guide Kasumi for a breakfast tour of the local seafood market where we feasted on gargantuan scallops and rice bowls packed with sea urchin, crab and octopus. Another day we joined a tour of Sakaimachi Street, Otaru's most famous thoroughfare where former mansions and warehouses now house shops showcasing the city's glass blowing and music box traditions, alongside a dozen patisseries selling slices of the rich, gooey cheesecake that Hokkaido is famous for. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Katja Gaskell I Writer (@globetotting) The Innsbruck of Japan When not encouraging you to explore the city's attractions, the OMO5's helpful staff also cater to stranded skiers and, after discovering that we would not be able to ski at Kiroro, the front desk recommended Asarigawa Onsen – the only one of six nearby ski resorts that was open despite the ongoing heavy snowfall. Located a short 20-minute taxi ride from the city centre, Asarigawa (or Asari for short) is a tiny resort with just four chairlifts, nine marked pistes and a top elevation of just 680m. The equipment rental shop stocks only one unrecognisable brand of boots and skis (top tip: make sure to bring all your own equipment when skiing in Hokkaido if you can), the lift tickets are paper-based, and the tiny two-seater chairlifts lack both safety bars and speed. And yet, our day at Asari delivered some of the best skiing of our entire time in Hokkaido. 'This,' my husband said with an enormous grin as we came to a stop at the end of our first run, 'is what we came to Japan for.' We spent the day floating through metres of freshly fallen snow, the powder reaching our knees as we ducked in and out of the trees. There was so much snow that, on one chairlift ride, my ski tip got caught in a snowdrift, whipping the ski off my boot and wedging it firmly in the deep snow. Fortunately, a friendly lift attendant came to my rescue. We stopped briefly at the only mountain resthouse, where a vending machine dispensed cans of hot chocolate and strong coffee which we drank while drying ourselves in front of the solitary oil heater. Later, we enjoyed steaming platefuls of katsu curry at the resort's restaurant before hitting the slopes again. The snow stopped briefly towards the end of the day and the clouds parted to reveal Otaru's neat city streets in the distance and the wild ocean waves beyond. Powder hunters Organised transport to Otaru's nearby ski resorts is minimal: a shuttle bus runs to and from Kiroro Ski Resort, the largest and most popular of the neighbouring ski areas, but, as we discovered, securing a seat can be tricky. Public transport options are not only limited but they double the travel time involved. An alternative – and a popular option with returning skiers using the amenities of the city – is to hire a car instead. Options include Toyota ( and Times Car Rental ( Eventually we made it to Kiroro, and spent a day skiing its groomed pistes. The heavy snowfall meant that many of the resort's 23 runs were closed, and earnest patrol staff chased down any would-be powder hunters who attempted to ski beyond the marked slopes. But despite the temporarily restricted ski area, we made the most of the largely empty runs and exceptionally light powder snow. Back in Otaru we spent our final night at a small izakaya, a cosy restaurant decorated with mementoes of the city's seafaring past: glass buoys and fishing nets hung suspended from the ceiling and giant scallop and clam shells littered the small wooden ship hull that separated the dining area from the kitchen. We dined on fresh sashimi, steamed crab and grilled Ezo deer meat before heading back to our hotel, leaving footsteps along the snowy streets and dreaming of the fresh powder tracks we would make tomorrow. Essentials Katja Gaskell and family were guests of OMO5 Otaru by Hoshino Resorts (0081 503134 8096; which offers rooms from 16,000 JPY (£83) per room per night (two sharing, room only). Fly from London Heathrow to Sapporo via Tokyo with British Airways ( from £978 return. Lift passes cost from £25 per day at Asari Ski Resort ( and from £25 during spring season and £40 during high season at Kiroro Ski Resort ( Find out more at
Japan Times
20-03-2025
- Business
- Japan Times
Myoko ski resort area feels trepidation as foreign money pours in
Three winters from now, Japan's snowy Myoko highlands will be home to a $1.4 billion mega-resort built by a Singaporean fund, with hotels charging some $1,350 a night. The project by Patience Capital Group (PCG) promises to create 1,000 jobs and spur winter tourism. But for many Myoko locals, foreign interest has become a double-edged sword, threatening overdevelopment, sky-high prices and the sweeping away of traditional culture. Even before news of PCG's interest, many inns, ski rental shops and restaurants in Akakura — one of five major ski resort towns in the Myoko region — had been snapped up by foreigners. But they're only interested in the snow, and once that melts, those businesses shut. The town, also once a bustling hot-spring destination, no longer has enough going on to attract many visitors during the rest of the year. "If you come to Akakura in summer, it's pitch dark at night," said Masafumi Nakajima, owner of local inn Furuya and head of the 200-year-old town's hot spring-inn tourism association. He estimates only 10 of about 80 inns in Akakura operate year-round. Located roughly 2.5 hours from Tokyo by train in Niigata Prefecture, Myoko, along with the more famed Japanese ski resorts of Niseko and Hakuba, is known for powder snow, dubbed "Japow." The resort areas are a huge part of Japan's tourism boom, also fueled by a weak yen, which saw inbound tourist numbers jump 17% in February, hitting a record high for that month. Nakajima said many foreign business owners in Akakura have refused to join the local tourism association. One consequence is a lot of broken rules on the part of businesses and tourists that range from not disposing of garbage properly, to overparking to late-night fireworks. "We have no idea who they are and what they're doing. They just come in December and disappear when spring comes," he said. Nakajima recently started approaching foreign businesses to offer lectures on the town's rules. A visitor snowboards at the Myoko Suginohara Ski Resort in Myoko, Niigata Prefecture, on March 5. | REUTERS Many locals fear Myoko could go the way of Niseko. The resort on the northern island of Hokkaido has become a world-renowned winter sports destination on the back of high-end foreign developments, but the surge in property prices brought higher taxes for locals choosing not to sell. Inflation there — from labor costs to a bowl of ramen — has gone through the roof, pricing locals and most domestic travelers out of the market. Hakuba, in the Japanese Alps, has followed a similar path, while one township in Myoko has already seen land prices jump as much as 9% last year. PCG's Tokyo-born founder, Ken Chan, said he's mindful of local fears about his project, which will span 350 hectares and two ski slopes. To attract visitors year-round, PCG wants to promote its two planned luxury hotels for business conferences and is considering discounts during non-peak times for local residents who want to ski or snowboard, he said. He also intends to host a meeting with residents in the coming months. Myoko City mayor Yoji Kido said he's cautiously optimistic about PCG's development plans but has heard few specifics. Kido has been fielding more enquiries from foreign investors, and conscious of local concerns, the city is considering new regulations for larger projects from the 2027 fiscal year. "It's going to be an unusually big development for our city," he said. "I can't deny that things aren't worry-free." Koji Miyashita, the owner of a half-century-old shop in Akakura that sells steamed buns filled with red bean paste, said he sometimes feels like he doesn't live in Japan as Westerners throng the town's streets. Development in Myoko should sustain the region's culture, he said, adding: "We don't want to be another Niseko."
Reuters
20-03-2025
- Business
- Reuters
In Japan's ski resort area of Myoko, trepidation as more foreign money pours in
MYOKO, Japan, March 20 (Reuters) - Three winters from now, Japan's snowy Myoko highlands will be home to a $1.4 billion mega-resort built by a Singaporean fund, with hotels charging some $1,350 a night. The project by Patience Capital Group (PCG) promises to create 1,000 jobs and spur winter tourism. But for many Myoko locals, foreign interest has become a double-edged sword, threatening overdevelopment, sky-high prices and the sweeping away of traditional culture. Even before news of PCG's interest, many inns, ski rental shops and restaurants in Akakura - one of five major ski resort towns in the Myoko region - had been snapped up by foreigners. But they're only interested in the snow and once that melts, those businesses shut. The town, also once a bustling hot-spring destination, no longer has enough going on to attract many visitors during the rest of the year. "If you come to Akakura in summer, it's pitch dark at night," said Masafumi Nakajima, owner of local inn Furuya and head of the 200-year-old town's hot spring-inn tourism association. He estimates only 10 of about 80 inns in Akakura operate year-round. Located roughly 2.5 hours from Tokyo by train in Niigata prefecture, Myoko, along with the more famed Japanese ski resorts of Niseko and Hakuba, is known for powder snow, dubbed "Japow". The resort areas are a huge part of Japan's tourism boom, also fuelled by a weak yen, which saw inbound tourist numbers jump 17% in February, hitting a record high for that month. Nakajima said many foreign business owners in Akakura have refused to join the local tourism association. One consequence is a lot of broken rules on the part of businesses and tourists that range from not disposing of garbage properly, to overparking to late-night fireworks. "We have no idea who they are and what they're doing. They just come in December and disappear when spring comes," he said. Nakajima recently started approaching foreign businesses to offer lectures on the town's rules. PRICED OUT Many locals fear Myoko could go the way of Niseko. The resort on the northern island of Hokkaido has become a world-renowned winter sports destination on the back of high-end foreign developments, but the surge in property prices brought higher taxes for locals choosing not to sell. Inflation there - from labour costs to a bowl of ramen - has gone through the roof, pricing locals and most domestic travellers out of the market. Hakuba, in the Japanese Alps, has followed a similar path, while one township in Myoko has already seen land prices jump as much as 9% last year. PCG's Tokyo-born founder, Ken Chan, said he's mindful of local fears about his project, which will span 350 hectares and two ski slopes. To attract visitors year-round, PCG wants to promote its two planned luxury hotels for business conferences and is considering discounts during non-peak times for local residents who want to ski or snowboard, he told Reuters. He also intends to host a meeting with residents in the coming months. Myoko City mayor Yoji Kido said he's cautiously optimistic about PCG's development plans but has heard few specifics. Kido has been fielding more enquiries from foreign investors and conscious of local concerns, the city is considering new regulations for larger projects from the 2027 fiscal year. "It's going to be an unusually big development for our city," he said. "I can't deny that things aren't worry-free." Koji Miyashita, the owner of a half-century-old shop in Akakura that sells steamed buns filled with red bean paste, said he sometimes feels like he doesn't live in Japan as Westerners throng the town's streets. Development in Myoko should sustain the region's culture, he said, adding: "We don't want to be another Niseko." ($1 = 149.4600 yen)
New York Times
11-02-2025
- New York Times
A First Timer's Guide to Skiing in Japan
Unlike the high jinks and vibrant après-ski scene that permeate the Alps and Rockies, Japan offers a meditative experience on its slopes. Skiing here is an almost reverent affair. 'It's not about lounging in the sun or partying between runs,' said Sari Levy, 46, who lives in Telluride, Colo., and just returned from her second ski trip to Japan. 'It's all about the snow and ski, ski, ski.' There's hardly been a better time to follow that directive. Japan is currently enjoying a banner ski season. The Hakuba Valley, the country's largest ski area, has already recorded an impressive 370 inches of powder, marking its snowiest season in over a decade. With resorts staying open well into April and possibly May, there's ample opportunity to carve fresh tracks. And what tracks! Japan is known for taking Western institutions — whether whiskey, jazz or 7-Eleven stores — and refining them into something of its own. Skiing is no exception. Introduced to Japan in 1911 by a major in the Austro-Hungarian army, Theodor von Lerch, on Mount Kanaya, skiing has become an integral part of the nation's outdoor culture, with more than 500 resorts on its mountainous islands. At the heart of Japan's ski experience is the snow itself: light, dry and delightfully abundant. This divine powder, known as 'Japow,' is the result of Siberian Arctic wind sweeping across the Sea of Japan, where it collects moisture before crashing into the towering ranges on Japan's northern islands. For most skiers, the fluffy, dry snow that seems to fall almost daily is the stuff of dreams. With the U.S. dollar currently strong, and lift tickets, hotels and meals often more affordable than at Western resorts, a ski trip to Japan can feel like a bargain. The price of an international flight is easily outweighed by the relatively low cost of access to endless powder and excellent facilities. 'It's actually cheaper for me to fly to Japan and go skiing there than to spend a week at a place like Aspen or Vail,' Ms. Levy said. The big choice is deciding among the resort areas on the two islands that dominate the ski scene: Hokkaido and Honshu. Hokkaido: Powder paradise with a Western touch For many skiers, Hokkaido, Japan's second-largest island, is the powder paradise. The island's resorts combine world-class terrain with modern hotels, international dining options and infrastructure reminiscent of Vail or Snowbird. Most visitors fly into Sapporo's New Chitose Airport, a major hub connected to Tokyo, Hong Kong, Bangkok and other Asian cities. Alternatively, the scenic overnight high-speed train ride from Tokyo is a uniquely Japanese way to travel to this winter wonderland. A three-hour bus ride from Sapporo and New Chitose Airport, Niseko United is a favorite among American skiers, particularly because it accepts the Ikon Pass. The resort is spread across four villages at the base of Mount Niseko Annupuri, with lifts and gondolas that carry skiers above the tree line. From there, adventurous souls can descend into wide bowls, long straightaways and exhilarating tree runs through dense pine forests. Niseko also offers off-the-beaten-path experiences, including a guided ski ascent and descent of Mount Yotei, the imposing 6,227-foot volcano that towers over the valley. All-mountain ski passes: 10,500 yen, or about $68, a day. Where to stay: Niseko Northern Resort An'nupuri, a funky midcentury-modern ski lodge, is a family-friendly option, with everything from laundry facilities, ski rentals and lockers to a minimart and an on-site onsen, or hot spring. The mountain's beginner slopes are next door. Doubles start at ¥12,600. Shiguchi exudes Zen-like minimalism and elegance in five luxuriously renovated traditional wood farmhouses nestled on a forested hill. Each can accommodate up to six people and comes with a private onsen. There's also a spa and a fine Japanese restaurant attached to the inn. Doubles, including breakfast, start at ¥180,000. Where to eat: The Barn by Odin offers fine Japanese fusion dining in a glassy modern version of a traditional Hokkaido barn. Tasting menu with wine pairing is ¥7,000. Afuri specializes in ramen and tavern food with homemade noodles and has an excellent bar and stunning views of Mount Yotei. Dinner with sake, ¥5,100. Perched above the vibrant city of Sapporo, Sapporo Teine offers a unique blend of urban experiences and world-class powder. Skiers and snowboarders can enjoy a more intimate alternative to Niseko, with north-facing slopes that catch snow directly off the Sea of Japan. The resort's varied terrain provides sweeping views of not only the sprawling city below but also the rugged coastline. Passes: ¥8,200 per day. Where to stay: JR Tower Hotel Nikko Sapporo is a luxurious modern hotel connected to the train station in the city center. Ask for a high floor for views of the city and mountains. Doubles start at ¥20,000 per night. Sapporo Stream Hotel, with a sleek, Scando-modernist vibe, opened last year in the entertainment district. Doubles start at ¥11,000 per night. Where to eat: Join the line of locals in Soup Curry Garaku, a revered rustic joint specializing in Sapporo's signature curry dish. Dinner with local draft beer runs about ¥1,100. Sapporo Beer Garden serves delicious local lamb dishes that you can drown with draft mugs of the famous local brew. Dinner with beer, ¥1,800; an all-you-can-eat-and-drink option goes for ¥5,280. Honshu: Gliding into Japanese culture Japan's main island blends skiing with cultural immersion. Resorts are often set in picturesque ancient villages, giving visitors the opportunity to mix sport with tourism. Honshu is more likely to have clear, blue skies — a reprieve from Hokkaido's perpetually stormy weather. Nozawa Onsen, one of Japan's oldest ski resorts, is a rare blend of old and new. The resort is as renowned for its dozen public onsens — some thought to date to the eighth century — as it is for its diverse terrain. Nozawa Onsen remains a charming village that has sidestepped the overcommercialization of many modern ski destinations. The village's narrow alleys, lined with shrines and temples, offer a glimpse of traditional Japan, where visitors still sleep on tatami mats and dine close to the floor. Skiers meander through these atmospheric streets, heading toward 19 lifts and gondolas that whisk them up Mount Kenashi. The mountain's name — meaning 'the bald' in Japanese — couldn't be more misleading, as its peak is blanketed in powder-dusted pines. On a snowy day, the scene resembles an ancient woodblock print, frozen in time. Though Nozawa Onsen's setting evokes a deep sense of tradition, its lifts and gondolas have been undergoing an extensive overhaul in recent years. The result is a resort that marries historical charm with modern facilities. Passes: ¥7,300 a day. Where to stay: Kiriya Ryokan is a family-friendly inn with excellent meals near the moving walkway to the lifts. Rooms start at ¥15,000 a night. Lodge Nagano is a simple budget lodge with an ideal location right next to the lifts. The starting price is ¥5,500 a night in a shared bunk room with breakfast included. Private doubles start at ¥14,000. Where to eat: Hamachozush is an old-school sushi restaurant with floor or bar seating. Dinner with sake is ¥5,800. Hakugin is a slope-side restaurant with hearty Japanese mountain food like miso ramen and tonkatsu pork cutlets. A meal with beer is ¥2,100. Farther north, Hakuba Valley, Japan's largest ski destination, owes much of its fame to the 1998 Winter Olympics. Just a two-hour ride from Tokyo via high-speed train, the valley draws skiers from around the globe, especially since its resorts accept the Epic Pass. Comprising 10 resorts under a single lift, Hakuba's vast and varied landscapes are streaked with over 200 runs that cater to all levels — from alpine slopes above the tree line to powdery trails winding through birch forests, and challenging mogul runs nestled in between. The scenery here is unusual, as the resort is walled in on all sides by a forested palisade of white-topped peaks. Passes: ¥9,700 a day. Where to stay: As its cozy alpine design suggests, Hotel Goryukan was built to serve skiers, with ski storage, laundry facilities, an inside-outside onsen and a prime location near the lifts. Doubles start at ¥44,000 a night. Hakuba Tokyu Hotel is a family-friendly ski hotel — room designs include a campground, a tree fort and a planetarium — in the heart of the valley with shuttles to the resorts. Doubles start at ¥25,000. Where to eat: Izakaya Hie is a popular log cabin restaurant serving traditional small-plate tavern dishes such as fried chicken skin, beef sashimi, fresh oysters and pickled vegetables. Dinner with beer is ¥2,400; reserve well in advance. Soba-Syubo Zen offers excellent soba and tempura in a cozy locale. Dinner with sake, ¥1,400. For skiers in search of isolated, often empty runs, Myoko Kogen is a respite from Japan's more commercialized resorts. Three hours by train from Tokyo, this relatively secret snowy Shangri-la is home to nine independent resorts surrounding 8,051-foot Mount Myoko. A longtime favorite among older Japanese skiers and snowboarders, Myoko retains an old-school charm, with timeworn lifts and a nostalgic bucket gondola. Myoko's steep runs and the valley's famed medicinal onsen combine exhilarating snow and serene relaxation — without the glitz. Passes: ¥7,200 per day. Where to stay: Akakura Kanko Hotel is a ski-in, ski-out 'grand hotel' built in 1937 and stylishly modernized in 2016. Doubles start at ¥15,500. Hotel Taiko has Western-style and Japanese rooms centered on a therapeutic hot spring and spa. Rates start at ¥31,000. Where to eat: Restaurant Shibata is a family-run institution where everything from crispy tofu to Wagyu beef is served. Dinner with beer, ¥1,500. Restaurant by A.I.R. specializes in innovative, plant-based, fixed-price meals around a communal table. An eight-course meal with wine pairing, ¥22,300. Although Blanche Takayama enjoys cult status among Japanese skiers, few Westerners know about it. Three hours from Tokyo by train and taxi, it's a ski-only resort — no snowboarding allowed (though that ban is tentatively scheduled to be lifted on March 17), much to the chagrin of ski purists. The resort provides an intimate atmosphere, with only five lifts. Gently sloping, powder-covered runs through dense forest offer a serene playground for those seeking solitude. Passes: ¥4,000 a day. Where to stay and eat: Shirakabako Ikedaike Hotel is an elegant resort six miles from Blanche Takayama. It straddles an enormous indoor-outdoor onsen and features an exquisite nightly Western and Japanese dinner buffet. Rates start at ¥27,000 a night, with breakfast. Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram and sign up for our Travel Dispatch newsletter to get expert tips on traveling smarter and inspiration for your next vacation. Dreaming up a future getaway or just armchair traveling? Check out our 52 Places to Go in 2025.
