23-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Condé Nast Traveler
Le Mousso — Restaurant Review
What's the big picture?
There is only one dinner seating per evening from Thursday through Saturday, so there was already an air of anticipation upon walking into the restaurant. Diners were excited and ready for a chance to dine at one of 30 coveted seats within the restaurant inside Montreal's vibey and artsy neighborhood, The Village. Upon arrival, you are greeted with a warm smile by a passing server who is quick to offer a welcome drink, which this evening was made of vermouth from Ontario. The interiors are noticeably minimalist, with streamlined wooden tables and shelving, and a prominent art piece by famed Quebecois painter Jean-Paul Mousseau, the chef's grandfather.
What's the crowd like?
The evening's diners seemed primed for a show. They were relaxed with a welcome drink and conversing animatedly with one another. Still, it's a splurge to dine here, and everyone appeared to be here with intention and purpose.
What should we be drinking?
Le Mousso has its own sommelier, who excitedly talks about her pairings, which varied from domestic selections to those from Europe and South America.
Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.
Chef Antonin Mousseau-Rivard comes from a family of artists and creatives, and his culinary background includes helming the restaurant inside Montreal contemporary art museum, and all this background shows up on the plate. Servers pop out of the open kitchen in unison in a choreographed performance, delivering each course that has been beautifully arranged on the plate, and perhaps later enhanced by a sauce poured by the server. Before each course, the sommelier and chef each take turns standing on a makeshift stage to describe their contribution to the course—all in French, with English spoken at individual tables as needed—and the intention behind it. There's a progression of proteins (clams, arctic char, lobster, beef, scallops, lamb) that all have a personal story to their creation.
And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?
The service team had anticipation down pat. When they saw me half-heartedly drinking my cocktail, they took it upon themselves to create a special drink for me. Timing was choreographed to perfection, with little wait time in between meals. Each course came out like a well-rehearsed performance.
What's the real-real on why we're coming here?
Le Mousso is for the gourmand—someone who appreciates quality—thoughtful dining with a little bit of theatrics and explanation of each dish.
