01-04-2025
Meiji says sayonara to bottled milk, a staple of Japan's bathhouses
Meiji Holdings ended sales of almost all of its glass bottled milk and coffee beverages on Monday, marking the end of a product long intertwined with Japan's sentō, or bathhouse, culture.
Starting Tuesday, the company switched to paper cartons, pointing to declining demand, environmental concerns, and supply issues after its glass bottle supplier shut down, sparking worries about long-term availability. The move affects the brand's four most iconic 180-milliliter bottled beverages, including Meiji Milk and Meiji Coffee.
Meiji Milk has been a staple for nearly a century, having been around since 1928. The glass-bottled version holds a special place in bathhouses, where drinking a bottle post-bath has been a ritual for generations. In fact, public bathhouses played a key role in popularizing bottled milk in Japan.
In the 1950s, when home refrigerators were a luxury, dairy companies struggled to expand home delivery due to spoilage concerns.
Bathhouses, which had built-in refrigeration, provided the perfect solution.
At Kosugiyu, a bathhouse in Tokyo's Koenji district, the connection between bottled milk and bath culture is undeniable. For 70 years, the bathhouse stocked Meiji's bottled milk, and, over several decades, even had the same delivery person handling their shipments.
Kosugiyu has created a tribute corner where patrons can share memories of drinking Meiji's bottled milk after a bath. |
Jessica Speed
Kosugiyu has created a tribute space for Meiji's bottled milk in response to its exit. It features a large blackboard and notes corner where patrons can share memories of drinking Meiji milk after a bath. Manager Hiroshi Hiramatsu hopes the initiative will encourage people to appreciate glass bottles and support their continued use.
'When we heard that Meiji was withdrawing from bottled milk, our first reaction was a deep sense of sadness,' Hiramatsu said. 'That's why we decided to organize this initiative — to share our gratitude for Meiji's bottled milk with our customers, who have also cherished it over the years.'
Meiji's decision reflects a broader industry trend.
Koiwai Dairy Products, a subsidiary of Kirin Holdings, ended bottled milk sales in 2021, while Morinaga Milk Industry followed suit in 2024. Megmilk Snow Brand is the only one among Japan's three major dairy producers — the other two being Meiji and Morinaga — that remains committed to glass-bottled milk.
In a statement last year, Megmilk emphasized the 'unique deliciousness and emotional value' of glass packaging, vowing to continue home delivery and vending machine sales.
While Meiji's exit is a blow to milk traditionalists, some smaller producers still remain committed to glass packaging.
Patrons' messages of love and nostalgia for Meiji's bottled milk are put up on a blackboard at Kosugiyu. |
Jessica Speed
Among them is Yamamura Milk, which supplies bottled milk to bathhouses and other outlets, including Kosugiyu. The company, based in the city of Ise, Mie Prefecture, produces 47 varieties of bottled dairy products, the largest selection in Japan.
'Milk tastes best when stored in glass,' said Takuya Yamamura, the 35-year-old son of the company's president and its head of public relations. 'We do offer paper cartons for convenience, but for the best flavor, glass is the ideal choice.'
Yamamura argues that glass enhances the milk-drinking experience. 'Milk should be enjoyed with all five senses. Glass keeps it colder, prevents external odors from seeping in, and allows for a more immersive aroma and taste experience compared to plastic bottles or paper cartons.'
Despite the logistical challenges of maintaining glass bottle production, Yamamura Milk has no plans to discontinue it. 'Glass is heavy and requires thorough cleaning, which makes it trickier than plastic or paper packaging,' Yamamura said. 'But as a manufacturer, our mission is to produce the most delicious product possible, even if the process is difficult.'
He acknowledged, however, the business realities behind Meiji's decision.
'For companies like Meiji, passing on the extra costs required for bottled milk to consumers isn't an option. If they drastically increased prices, many Japanese people wouldn't have access to milk. To keep it affordable, they had to adapt to rising costs and find sustainable business solutions,' he said.
'But they did their best to keep glass products on the shelves as long as they could,' he added. 'Nowadays, enjoying bottled milk has become more of a luxury experience.'
While Meiji's departure signals the end of an era, the outpouring of nostalgia from bathhouse patrons at Kosugiyu suggest that the tradition of post-bath bottled milk is far from forgotten.
'We have received many messages expressing regret of the decision,' said Yuko Nakamura, a spokesperson for Meiji. The numerous voices expressing regret over its discontinuation have reaffirmed to us just how beloved this product has been. We are deeply grateful for the many years of support.'
