Latest news with #JorgeVallejo
Forbes
24-05-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Sustainable Resorts in Mexico: Inside Chablé Hotels
Five-star Chable Hotels combine Mexican design, architecture, art and cuisine, respecting and ... More honoring the environment and local culture. As interest in sustainable tourism continues to rise, more properties around the world are taking steps toward minimizing negative impacts on the environment, preserving local cultures, and benefitting the communities in which they operate their hotels and resorts. An exemplary leader in this trend is Chablé Hotels, a Mexican-owned, five-star company that operates sustainable resorts in the Yucatan peninsula. The hotels, one in the state of Yucatan and another in the Riviera Maya, aim to set a standard of sustainability without compromising luxury by encouraging guests to live in harmony with nature and honor the local cultures and traditions. An important aspect of the experience are the food and drink programs, which set them apart from other luxury resorts in the area. For starters, all Chablé Hotels' restaurants are led by award-winning chef Jorge Vallejo, the mastermind behind México City's Michelin-starred Quintonil, included in the 50 World's Best Restaurants lists since 2015. With Vallejo as corporate chef, the cuisine at both Chablé Yucatan and Chablé Maroma reflects Mexico's culinary heritage, using local ingredients and traditions while allowing each property's chefs the creativity to transform them into innovative preparations that are a feast for all senses. Housed in a former XIX Century sisal hacienda, Chable Yucatan is an oasis of tranquility steeped in ... More history. Chablé Yucatán opened in 2016, set within 750 acres just 25 minutes from the historic capital city of Mérida. Sustainably designed and built in a restored 19th-century sisal hacienda, it preserves the rich history of the area by using rescued materials from the buildings, reutilizing collapsed stones and consolidating other buildings, building casitas and villas with the least environmental impact possible, and reinterpreting roots and trunks of fallen trees as unique furniture and sculptures. The vibe at this incredible property is one of quiet seclusion and well-being. Mornings start with dozens of different bird songs, and white-tailed deer, considered sacred by the ancient Maya, roam free and forage around the property. The amazing spa is the first in the world to be built surrounding a cenote, one of the many natural water sources that dot the Yucatán Peninsula. Named the The Best Hotel in North America 2024 by 50 Best and awarded two Michelin Keys, the hotel supports local artisans, using their crafts to decorate the buildings and grounds. Women from the Maya town of Ich Muul embroidered the original textile collection found at the resort, rescuing designs and colors representing the land's history. In fact, Maya culture is the heart and soul of the property, which offers many activities for guests to learn and experience its beautiful traditions. That, of course, includes the cuisine. At the traditional Maya outdoor kitchen, local women cooks prepare simple meals and teach cooking ... More classes. Here, chefs create seasonal menus using ingredients grown organically in the traditional Maya raised gardens called k'anche'. Guests can tour the gardens with the resident horticulturists, which grow fruit, vegetables and herbs to use in the restaurants. At the melipona bee sanctuary, visitors can harvest and taste honey directly from the hives. Prior to collecting, a local shaman conducts a ceremony to honor and respect the bees. Perhaps the most heartwarming and educational experience at Chablé Yucatán is the Casita Maya, a replica of a traditional Maya house and outdoor kitchen, where Yucatec women cooks known as the tías - the aunts - teach simple and delicious regional dishes and introduce the local ingredients. From grinding heirloom corn to make the tortillas, to roasting meat and vegetables over a wood fire, these experiences are not only delicious, but also allow the women to transmit their knowledge and recipes, raising awareness about endemic ingredients and the importance of preserving the environment in which they grow. Afterwards, participants sit al fresco to enjoy their preparations surrounded by nature. Award-winning Ixi'im Restaurant has been recognized for its stunning modern Mexican cuisine that ... More honors the gastronomy of Yucatan. There are two restaurants within the property: laid-back, poolside Ki'ol and award-winning Ixi'im, both offering seasonal menus using fresh produce grown in the hotel's k'anche'. Executive chef Ernesto Flores leads the wider culinary offerings, while executive chef Luis Ronzón heads up Ixi'im, the recipient of a 50 Best Discovery award. Ki'ol serves breakfast and lunch, with a focus on fresh and healthy preparations as well as refreshing cocktails and fruit juices. Meaning corn in Yucatec Maya, Ixi'im is housed in the former factory of the hacienda, serving modern Mexican cuisine with a focus on local and traditional ingredients and celebrating the unique cuisine of the Yucatán. Ronzón's culinary path began under the mentorship of Mexico's beloved chef and food historian Yuri de Gortari and as an apprentice to René Redzepi at Noma, experiences that shaped his talent before leading him to Quintonil, where he worked alongside Vallejo. Now at Ixi'im, he uses modern techniques to showcase local ingredients, the smoky flavors of the pib, the traditional Maya underground oven, and the region's Lebanese heritage. The amazing food at Ixi'im changes seasonally, with six-course tasting menus and a la carte options ... More available. With 3,435 bottles and counting, the bar at Ixi'im boasts one of the world's most extensive and impressive private tequila collections which lines the restaurant walls. The collection includes a bottle of Brinde por México by José Cuervo from 1845, and one-of-a-kind pieces painted by famed Mexican muralist Rufino Tamayo. The bar itself boasts a great selection of agave spirits, served alone, as flights or in craft cocktails. Set in an independent building across the grassy field, the hotel's cozy Sikar Bar has an extensive menu featuring classic spirits from around the world and a curated collection of various Mexican distillates, offering lively mixology classes for cocktail enthusiasts. Chablé Maroma sits on a long strecht of perfectly secluded beach, surrounded by carefylly preserved ... More mangroves. Following the success of Chablé Yucatán, Chablé Maroma opened in September 2018 on Maroma Beach in the Riviera Maya, surrounded by mangroves and flanked by the Caribbean Sea in proximity to the world's second-largest coral reef. It's just 40 minutes from Cancun airport, but it truly feels like a million miles away. Here, serenity and wellness are key to the whole experience, offering privacy amid nature and a spa with treatments centered around Maya traditions and the sea, and bespoke wellness retreats tailored individually. Renowned interior designer Paulina Morán created spaces that showcase nature while feeling luxurious. Add an efficient and friendly staff that seems genuinely happy to be where they are, and its no wonder Chablé Maroma has received one Michelin Key and a mention in the 50 Best Discovery list. In tune with Chablé's commitment to sustainability and support for local communities and the environment, the hotel partners with Oceanus A.C., a renowned Mexican pioneer in coral reef restoration, to safeguard vital coral species in the reef. Together, they offer a beautiful activity in which guests learn about coral preservation and are invited to create a personalized coral seedling 'home' to contribute to ongoing restoration efforts. Chablé Maroma has three food and beverage outlets, each with a different menu and vibe. Chablé Maroma has three seaside food and beverage outlets, each with its own vibe and culinary focus, but all inspired in seasonality and using produce and herbs from the property's k'anche'. At poolside Kaban, flavors from Mexico's coastal regions take center stage. Try the regional breakfast of huevos motuleños — eggs sunny side up on fried tortilla with refried beans, red sauce green peas fried plantain, spiced sausage, turkey ham, sour cream and cotija cheese — and refresh yourself at lunchtime with a ceviche or aguachile. If you're looking for a laid-back dinner, a varied menu includes seafood, steaks and pastas. Of course, ice cold beer and tropical cocktails are in order. For a truly special dinner, however, Bu'ul is the perfect choice. Here, the contemporary cuisine of chef Carlos Navarrete is influenced by the culinary traditions of the Yucatan, complemented by a spectacular wine list. The Michelin Guide recommended Bu'ul 'for its sophisticated dishes featuring corn, beans, and chiles.' Bu'ul, after all, is the Maya word for bean. The seasonal menus are a collaboration between Navarrete and Vallejo, using fresh ingredients sourced from nearby farms and sustainable seafood. A six-course tasting menu is the way to go, but a la carte dishes are also available and worth a try. A dish of duck with mole and chochoyotes is an example of the signature dishes at Bu'ul. Bu'ul's wine list, curated by sommelier Michael González, was the regional winner for Most Original Wine List and Best Designed Wine List in The World's Best Wine Lists 2024. It features a fantastic range of Mexican and international wines, including rare vertical collections that make it one of the most recognized in the Riviera Maya. The wine cellar offers private tastings, which are not to be missed. González is a fountain of knowledge but also a great educator, explaining things in detail without being pretentious or condescending. The space is beautiful, to boot. Above Bu'ul is Raw Bar, a terrace cocktail bar with incredible views and the laid-back elegance that characterizes the property. The menu, as the name implies, includes seafood preparations by the Bu'ul culinary team, with craft cocktails, beer and wine available. If you fancy an informal dinner with a spectacular sunset, this is the place. Chefs bury the cochinita pibil in the morning and serve it at night with all the trimmings. If you like getting your hands dirty in the kitchen take a cooking class. You can learn to make your own roasted salsa using the traditional stone molcajete while sipping a refreshing cocktail, or book a more elaborate Yucatec cuisine class and learn to make regional classics. If liquid cuisine is more your beat, Raw Bar's mixologists also teach afternoon cocktail clases, just in time for happy hour. For a truly unique experience, be sure to ask about the pib ceremony. Weather permitting, chefs prepare cochinita pibil, perhaps the most iconic dish of the region, in an underground pit directly on the beach. They bury the seasoned pork loin in the morning and unearth it in the evening for dinner, serving it the traditional way with freshly made tortillas, salsas and pickled onions. This is not to be missed. Both of these properties are an incredible example of how luxury resorts can and should respect the people, the cultures and the environment of the places in which they are built. Going even further, Chablé Hotels actively participate and encourage the restoration of the ecosystems and preservation of the traditions that make Mexico, and the Yucatan Peninsula, so unique.
South China Morning Post
17-03-2025
- Entertainment
- South China Morning Post
Mexico City chef's ancestral food, from tamales to insect tacos, reduces diners to tears
Quintonil is not your typical Mexican restaurant. Advertisement Clients book tables months in advance to celebrate special occasions. The World's 50 Best Restaurants list ranked it the most acclaimed venue in Mexico in 2024 – and No. 7 worldwide. But once in a while something unexpected happens: food brings guests to tears. 'We have hosted people who have wept over a tamale,' says chef Jorge Vallejo, who founded Quintonil in Mexico City in March 2012. He intentionally chose traditional street food for the menu – insects and other pre-Hispanic delicacies included. Priced at 4,950 pesos (US$250) per person, it evokes the nostalgia of home and the history of the homeland. Chefs at Quintonil test sauces for the menu. The restaurant in Mexico City has two Michelin stars and came in at No. 7 on The World's 50 Best Restaurants list. Photo: AP The tamale – which translates from the indigenous Mexican language Nahuatl as 'wrapped' – is a Mesoamerican delicacy made of steamed corn dough. It can be filled with savoury or sweet ingredients – such as pork meat and pineapple – and topped with sauce. Advertisement Official records show that around 500 varieties of tamale can be found in Mexico. According to a publication of Samuel Villela, an ethnologist from Mexico's National School of Anthropology and History, Nahua communities used them for ritual purposes.
Yahoo
14-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Is there more to fine dining? For this Mexican chef, it's a path toward his country's roots
MEXICO CITY (AP) — Quintonil is not your typical Mexican restaurant. Clients book tables months in advance to celebrate special occasions. The World's 50 Best list ranked it as the most acclaimed venue in the country in 2024 — and No. 7 worldwide. But once in a while something unexpected happens: food brings guests to tears. 'We have hosted people who have wept over a tamale,' said chef Jorge Vallejo, who founded Quintonil in Mexico City in March 2012. He intentionally chose traditional street food for the menu — insects and other pre-Hispanic delicacies included. Priced at 4,950 pesos ($250 US) per person, it evokes the nostalgia of home and the history of the homeland. The tamale — which translates from the Nahuatl language as 'wrapped' — is a Mesoamerican delicacy made of steamed corn dough. It can be filled with savory or sweet ingredients — such as pork meat and pineapple — and topped with sauce. Official records show that around 500 varieties of tamales can be found in Mexico. And according to a publication of Samuel Villela, ethnologist from the National School of Anthropology and History, Nahua communities used them for ritual purposes. Most of Vallejo's clientele are foreigners attracted by the two Michelin stars awarded to Quintonil last year. Others are nationals who spent decades living abroad or Americans of Mexican descent in search of a taste from their ancestry. 'They come to visit their families and feel shaken by the flavors that remind them who they are,' the chef said. 'It's like coming back to their roots.' Providing that experience is what motivated him to open Quintonil 13 years ago. He first thought of his 11-table restaurant as a 'fonda,' as Mexicans call popular food venues offering homemade dishes. 'I didn't think I would own a restaurant like Quintonil nor did I aspire to that,' Vallejo said. 'What I've tried to do is to learn from Mexico and show the best of it.' He took his first job in a place resembling a fonda, where he and his mom used to have lunch. He then studied culinary arts. For a while, he worked on a cruise line, peeling crabs and coordinating the logistics to feed thousands of clients. Back in Mexico, he met his wife and business partner at Pujol, run by famed chef Enrique Olvera. They founded Quintonil a few years later and their mission has not changed: We'll tell our country's tales through food. 'We all have a life story,' Vallejo said. 'I try to interpret that and transform it into stories we can share at Quintonil.' Traveling is part of his routine. He meets with colleagues to exchange anecdotes and contacts, but also encounters local farmers and spends time in remote communities to understand how food and tradition intertwine. 'In Mexico, we have ecosystems and ingredients that don't exist anywhere else,' Vallejo said. 'And our recipes, our traditions, are deeply rooted in society.' His menu at Quintonil often incorporates insects, treasured since pre-Hispanic times. Ancient documents describe how the Mexica were once established in the Chapultepec Hill. Its name comes from 'chapulín,' a type of grasshopper that Mexicans currently enjoy from street vendors or at popular bars known as 'cantinas.' 'In Mexico City, we have 'escamoles' season,' Vallejo said, referring to an edible larvae the Aztec people ate. 'But in Oaxaca, we can find the 'chicatana' ants. In Tlaxcala, 'cocopaches' (a leaf-footed bug) and in Guerrero, they have insects of their own.' Alexandra Bretón, a food enthusiast who has visited Quintonil several times and reviews restaurants in her blog 'Chilangas Hambrientas,' feels that Vallejo's contribution to Mexican gastronomy is invaluable. 'He has elevated Mexican ingredients,' Bretón said. 'My memories of Quintonil are of dishes where herbs, insects and vegetables are taken seriously in dishes with great technique.' During her last visit in February, she tasted a delicious tamale filled with duck. Her second favorite was a taco, which can be found at thousands of food spots, but Vallejo somehow transforms into an experience. 'What we do here are not just beautiful plates,' said Geraldine Rodríguez, Quintonil's sous chef. 'We aim to nourish people, to show what Mexico is.' There was a time, she said, when fine dining was synonymous of foie gras and lobster. But Quintonil chose another path. 'We have an ancestral cuisine that comes from our grandmothers,' Rodríguez said. 'So we respect those recipes and add the chef's touch.' The taco experience highlighted by Bretón is among those efforts. Several ingredients — insects, for instance — are offered in plates for clients to wrap in tortillas. 'Through that interaction, that ritual that we Mexicans own, we watch clients wondering if they're grabbing the taco in a proper way,' Rodríguez said. 'But we always tell them we just want them to feel at home.' Working long shifts and aiming for perfection is not an easy task for the 60 people working at Quintonil. Rodríguez can spend up to four hours selecting a handful of sprouts to decorate a plate. Other near-invisible, almost ritualistic tasks are performed daily. One of them is brushing the 'milpa,' a textile that hangs from the terrace and was named after Mesoamerican fields where crops are grown. In the end it's all worth it, Rodríguez said, because Quintonil provides clients with moments that evoke special memories. She, too, has seen Vallejo's clients cry over food. One of them was her dad. It was his 50th birthday, she said, and while she was not an employee of Quintonil at the time, Vallejo greeted her warmly. The menu of the day included 'huauzontles," a green plant commonly cooked as a bun-shaped delicacy dipped in sauce. It also bears history, as Aztec communities ate it and used it to perform religious rites. Quintonil's recipe added stir-fry tomato and a local cheese. 'When he ate it, he started crying and said they reminded him of my grandma,' Rodríguez said. 'I had never seen my dad cry over a plate.' Vallejo has often expressed joy for the recognition that Quintonil has achieved. But in his view, a chef's true success is measured by what he make his clients feel. 'Mexican cuisine is a connection to the land, to the ingredients,' he said. 'It's a series of elements that produce not an emotion, but a feeling. And for me, there's nothing more amazing than provoking that.' ____ Associated Press religion coverage receives support through the AP's collaboration with The Conversation US, with funding from Lilly Endowment Inc. The AP is solely responsible for this content.
The Independent
14-03-2025
- Entertainment
- The Independent
Is there more to fine dining? For this Mexican chef, it's a path toward his country's roots
Quintonil is not your typical Mexican restaurant. Clients book tables months in advance to celebrate special occasions. The World's 50 Best list ranked it as the most acclaimed venue in the country in 2024 — and No. 7 worldwide. But once in a while something unexpected happens: food brings guests to tears. 'We have hosted people who have wept over a tamale,' said chef Jorge Vallejo, who founded Quintonil in Mexico City in March 2012. He intentionally chose traditional street food for the menu — insects and other pre-Hispanic delicacies included. Priced at 4,950 pesos ($250 US) per person, it evokes the nostalgia of home and the history of the homeland. The tamale — which translates from the Nahuatl language as 'wrapped' — is a Mesoamerican delicacy made of steamed corn dough. It can be filled with savory or sweet ingredients — such as pork meat and pineapple — and topped with sauce. Official records show that around 500 varieties of tamales can be found in Mexico. And according to a publication of Samuel Villela, ethnologist from the National School of Anthropology and History, Nahua communities used them for ritual purposes. Most of Vallejo's clientele are foreigners attracted by the two Michelin stars awarded to Quintonil last year. Others are nationals who spent decades living abroad or Americans of Mexican descent in search of a taste from their ancestry. 'They come to visit their families and feel shaken by the flavors that remind them who they are,' the chef said. 'It's like coming back to their roots.' Providing that experience is what motivated him to open Quintonil 13 years ago. He first thought of his 11-table restaurant as a 'fonda,' as Mexicans call popular food venues offering homemade dishes. 'I didn't think I would own a restaurant like Quintonil nor did I aspire to that,' Vallejo said. 'What I've tried to do is to learn from Mexico and show the best of it.' He took his first job in a place resembling a fonda, where he and his mom used to have lunch. He then studied culinary arts. For a while, he worked on a cruise line, peeling crabs and coordinating the logistics to feed thousands of clients. Back in Mexico, he met his wife and business partner at Pujol, run by famed chef Enrique Olvera. They founded Quintonil a few years later and their mission has not changed: We'll tell our country's tales through food. 'We all have a life story,' Vallejo said. 'I try to interpret that and transform it into stories we can share at Quintonil.' Traveling is part of his routine. He meets with colleagues to exchange anecdotes and contacts, but also encounters local farmers and spends time in remote communities to understand how food and tradition intertwine. 'In Mexico, we have ecosystems and ingredients that don't exist anywhere else,' Vallejo said. 'And our recipes, our traditions, are deeply rooted in society.' His menu at Quintonil often incorporates insects, treasured since pre-Hispanic times. Ancient documents describe how the Mexica were once established in the Chapultepec Hill. Its name comes from 'chapulín,' a type of grasshopper that Mexicans currently enjoy from street vendors or at popular bars known as 'cantinas.' 'In Mexico City, we have 'escamoles' season,' Vallejo said, referring to an edible larvae the Aztec people ate. 'But in Oaxaca, we can find the 'chicatana' ants. In Tlaxcala, 'cocopaches' (a leaf-footed bug) and in Guerrero, they have insects of their own.' Alexandra Bretón, a food enthusiast who has visited Quintonil several times and reviews restaurants in her blog 'Chilangas Hambrientas,' feels that Vallejo's contribution to Mexican gastronomy is invaluable. 'He has elevated Mexican ingredients,' Bretón said. 'My memories of Quintonil are of dishes where herbs, insects and vegetables are taken seriously in dishes with great technique.' During her last visit in February, she tasted a delicious tamale filled with duck. Her second favorite was a taco, which can be found at thousands of food spots, but Vallejo somehow transforms into an experience. 'What we do here are not just beautiful plates,' said Geraldine Rodríguez, Quintonil's sous chef. 'We aim to nourish people, to show what Mexico is.' There was a time, she said, when fine dining was synonymous of foie gras and lobster. But Quintonil chose another path. 'We have an ancestral cuisine that comes from our grandmothers,' Rodríguez said. 'So we respect those recipes and add the chef's touch.' The taco experience highlighted by Bretón is among those efforts. Several ingredients — insects, for instance — are offered in plates for clients to wrap in tortillas. 'Through that interaction, that ritual that we Mexicans own, we watch clients wondering if they're grabbing the taco in a proper way,' Rodríguez said. 'But we always tell them we just want them to feel at home.' Working long shifts and aiming for perfection is not an easy task for the 60 people working at Quintonil. Rodríguez can spend up to four hours selecting a handful of sprouts to decorate a plate. Other near-invisible, almost ritualistic tasks are performed daily. One of them is brushing the 'milpa,' a textile that hangs from the terrace and was named after Mesoamerican fields where crops are grown. In the end it's all worth it, Rodríguez said, because Quintonil provides clients with moments that evoke special memories. She, too, has seen Vallejo's clients cry over food. One of them was her dad. It was his 50th birthday, she said, and while she was not an employee of Quintonil at the time, Vallejo greeted her warmly. The menu of the day included 'huauzontles," a green plant commonly cooked as a bun-shaped delicacy dipped in sauce. It also bears history, as Aztec communities ate it and used it to perform religious rites. Quintonil's recipe added stir-fry tomato and a local cheese. 'When he ate it, he started crying and said they reminded him of my grandma,' Rodríguez said. 'I had never seen my dad cry over a plate.' Vallejo has often expressed joy for the recognition that Quintonil has achieved. But in his view, a chef's true success is measured by what he make his clients feel. 'Mexican cuisine is a connection to the land, to the ingredients,' he said. 'It's a series of elements that produce not an emotion, but a feeling. And for me, there's nothing more amazing than provoking that.' ____ Associated Press religion coverage receives support through the AP's collaboration with The Conversation US, with funding from Lilly Endowment Inc. The AP is solely responsible for this content.
Associated Press
14-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Associated Press
Is there more to fine dining? For this Mexican chef, it's a path toward his country's roots
MEXICO CITY (AP) — Quintonil is not your typical Mexican restaurant. Clients book tables months in advance to celebrate special occasions. The World's 50 Best list ranked it as the most acclaimed venue in the country in 2024 — and No. 7 worldwide. But once in a while something unexpected happens: food brings guests to tears. 'We have hosted people who have wept over a tamale,' said chef Jorge Vallejo, who founded Quintonil in Mexico City in March 2012. He intentionally chose traditional street food for the menu — insects and other pre-Hispanic delicacies included. Priced at 4,950 pesos ($250 US) per person, it evokes the nostalgia of home and the history of the homeland. The tamale — which translates from the Nahuatl language as 'wrapped' — is a Mesoamerican delicacy made of steamed corn dough. It can be filled with savory or sweet ingredients — such as pork meat and pineapple — and topped with sauce. Official records show that around 500 varieties of tamales can be found in Mexico. And according to a publication of Samuel Villela, ethnologist from the National School of Anthropology and History, Nahua communities used them for ritual purposes. Most of Vallejo's clientele are foreigners attracted by the two Michelin stars awarded to Quintonil last year. Others are nationals who spent decades living abroad or Americans of Mexican descent in search of a taste from their ancestry. 'They come to visit their families and feel shaken by the flavors that remind them who they are,' the chef said. 'It's like coming back to their roots.' Providing that experience is what motivated him to open Quintonil 13 years ago. He first thought of his 11-table restaurant as a 'fonda,' as Mexicans call popular food venues offering homemade dishes. 'I didn't think I would own a restaurant like Quintonil nor did I aspire to that,' Vallejo said. 'What I've tried to do is to learn from Mexico and show the best of it.' He took his first job in a place resembling a fonda, where he and his mom used to have lunch. He then studied culinary arts. For a while, he worked on a cruise line, peeling crabs and coordinating the logistics to feed thousands of clients. Back in Mexico, he met his wife and business partner at Pujol, run by famed chef Enrique Olvera. They founded Quintonil a few years later and their mission has not changed: We'll tell our country's tales through food. 'We all have a life story,' Vallejo said. 'I try to interpret that and transform it into stories we can share at Quintonil.' Traveling is part of his routine. He meets with colleagues to exchange anecdotes and contacts, but also encounters local farmers and spends time in remote communities to understand how food and tradition intertwine. 'In Mexico, we have ecosystems and ingredients that don't exist anywhere else,' Vallejo said. 'And our recipes, our traditions, are deeply rooted in society.' His menu at Quintonil often incorporates insects, treasured since pre-Hispanic times. Ancient documents describe how the Mexica were once established in the Chapultepec Hill. Its name comes from 'chapulín,' a type of grasshopper that Mexicans currently enjoy from street vendors or at popular bars known as 'cantinas.' 'In Mexico City, we have 'escamoles' season,' Vallejo said, referring to an edible larvae the Aztec people ate. 'But in Oaxaca, we can find the 'chicatana' ants. In Tlaxcala, 'cocopaches' (a leaf-footed bug) and in Guerrero, they have insects of their own.' Alexandra Bretón, a food enthusiast who has visited Quintonil several times and reviews restaurants in her blog 'Chilangas Hambrientas,' feels that Vallejo's contribution to Mexican gastronomy is invaluable. 'He has elevated Mexican ingredients,' Bretón said. 'My memories of Quintonil are of dishes where herbs, insects and vegetables are taken seriously in dishes with great technique.' During her last visit in February, she tasted a delicious tamale filled with duck. Her second favorite was a taco, which can be found at thousands of food spots, but Vallejo somehow transforms into an experience. 'What we do here are not just beautiful plates,' said Geraldine Rodríguez, Quintonil's sous chef. 'We aim to nourish people, to show what Mexico is.' There was a time, she said, when fine dining was synonymous of foie gras and lobster. But Quintonil chose another path. 'We have an ancestral cuisine that comes from our grandmothers,' Rodríguez said. 'So we respect those recipes and add the chef's touch.' The taco experience highlighted by Bretón is among those efforts. Several ingredients — insects, for instance — are offered in plates for clients to wrap in tortillas. 'Through that interaction, that ritual that we Mexicans own, we watch clients wondering if they're grabbing the taco in a proper way,' Rodríguez said. 'But we always tell them we just want them to feel at home.' Working long shifts and aiming for perfection is not an easy task for the 60 people working at Quintonil. Rodríguez can spend up to four hours selecting a handful of sprouts to decorate a plate. Other near-invisible, almost ritualistic tasks are performed daily. One of them is brushing the 'milpa,' a textile that hangs from the terrace and was named after Mesoamerican fields where crops are grown. In the end it's all worth it, Rodríguez said, because Quintonil provides clients with moments that evoke special memories. She, too, has seen Vallejo's clients cry over food. One of them was her dad. It was his 50th birthday, she said, and while she was not an employee of Quintonil at the time, Vallejo greeted her warmly. The menu of the day included 'huauzontles,' a green plant commonly cooked as a bun-shaped delicacy dipped in sauce. It also bears history, as Aztec communities ate it and used it to perform religious rites. Quintonil's recipe added stir-fry tomato and a local cheese. 'When he ate it, he started crying and said they reminded him of my grandma,' Rodríguez said. 'I had never seen my dad cry over a plate.' Vallejo has often expressed joy for the recognition that Quintonil has achieved. But in his view, a chef's true success is measured by what he make his clients feel. 'Mexican cuisine is a connection to the land, to the ingredients,' he said. 'It's a series of elements that produce not an emotion, but a feeling. And for me, there's nothing more amazing than provoking that.'
