Latest news with #JoséPizarro
The Independent
27-05-2025
- The Independent
Why the Galician city of Santiago de Compostela is worthy of a food pilgrimage
Light plumes of steam gently billow from the oval silver tray the waiter presents to our table, accompanied by a salty aroma. Compared with the enthusiasm that greeted our previous dishes – cockles drenched in buttery olive oil mopped up with bread, and mussels in orangey pernod sauce – its contents are now being met with slightly quizzical looks. We wait with bated breath for someone else to dig in first. And it's not because we're being polite. It's because the plate of percebes – goose barnacles – has us well and truly stumped. To the uninitiated (as I was mere minutes before), they're filter-feeding crustaceans harvested from rocks. From a quick glance, they appear totally prehistoric, with triangular silvery-grey shells at one end and cylindrical leathery stalks at the other, hiding the fleshy stem. Luckily, there's an expert on hand to help us with this Galician delicacy. I'm sitting next to the godfather of Spanish cooking: chef, author and owner of seven restaurants, José Pizarro, who is with us in the small but mighty historic city of Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain. 'Make sure the pointy bit is facing away from you, pinch the leathery stalk to tear it, then twist it and pull it off,' he quickly demonstrates. Pizarro bites the little bit of iridescent pinky meat that looks every so slightly gelatinous from the bottom piece he's still holding. After insisting on a few more demos in slower motion, we all follow suit. Once we get the hang of opening them, we're rewarded with the gloriously sweet meat that has a good dose of salinity, akin to the best bits of a langoustine or crab. The city of Santiago de Compostela is affectionately known as the end point of the holy El Camino de Santiago (The Way of Saint James) pilgrimage and is full of wonderful medieval, Renaissance and Baroque architecture. But instead of walking, I'm on an eating pilgrimage as Galicia is famed for its superior quality shellfish, particularly octopus, empanadas (a pastry filled with meat or fish) and crunchy moreish Galician bread, a type of sourdough with a spongy texture and slightly acidic flavour. 'It's deeply rooted in the land and sea – it's simple, honest, and ingredient-led,' explains José. 'It's different from other regions in Spain as it's so seafood-focused, but it still feels very homely and soulful.' We begin our food pilgrimage here at Abastos 2.0 restaurant run by Iago Pazos, one of the many chefs Pizarro unsurprisingly knows. ' You won't be able to stop eating the barnacles,' Pizarro warns, and he's right. Very quickly, we're all picking at them as if they were salted peanuts; it's the saltiness that has us repeatedly returning for another morsel of sweet goodness. ' They're very expensive to buy in the market – about £90-100 per kilo,' he explains. 'It's because they're so dangerous to harvest – people can sometimes die trying to get them.' It's here that I have another first: a Nordesiño. This gin-based spritz using local gin, Nordés, is made of one part gin, two parts albariño wine and four parts tonic, and served with a bay leaf, a slice of lemon peel and garnished with a skewer of three grapes. It's a breezy and refreshing citrus serve that we all agree will be replacing Aperol spritzes this summer. The gin's key ingredient is pomace (leftover pulp and skins) of the native albariño grapes, which is used in its base spirit, creating a floral and aromatic gin. It was founded by three friends who came up with the idea while eating pulpo (octopus), a very Galician dish. 'They decided to make it a tribute to Galicia using the most important plants and botanics here', explains our guide on our tour of Casa Nordés, just outside the city centre. 'Six of the botanics are from Galicia including bay, lemon verbena, peppermint, eucalyptus, sage and samphire, and five are from overseas – hibiscus, black tea, cardamon, ginger and juniper.' José says it's a great gin to go with seafood, 'especially things like oysters, scallops, and lightly cured fish'. Food and drinks aside (for a moment), a trip to Santiago wouldn't be complete without visiting the Catedral de Santiago de Compostela. The vast and intricate golden altar is particularly impressive, but it's the rooftop we head for. After climbing 140 steps, we walk across the cathedral's roof, home to an easy-to-navigate staircase, which feels like living out a Mary Poppins fireworks scene fantasy. The tour is entirely in Spanish, but the incredible views over the red rooftops are wonderful and there's no language barrier for that. From our lofty heights, we see the unusual sight of a hundred or so pilgrims who have joined hands in a huge circle singing joyously together in the Praza do Obradoiro square below. It's a spectacle even Joaquín, our enthusiastic Galician guide, hasn't seen before which feels a privilege to witness. Afterwards, and back on the food trail, we head to O Gato Negro (The Black Cat), a small relaxed tapas restaurant in The Old Town where Pizarro has managed to grab an outside table (it doesn't take bookings). He orders for us and out comes a huge centolla – a red king crab – for approval before cooking. When it arrives cooked, Pizarro shows off his chef skills and sloshes some of the godello white wine we're drinking into the shell to mix together with the meat, which we eat atop the crunchy Galician bread that's constantly topped up on our table. He also orders more of our new favourite dish, goose barnacles, along with pulpo a la Gallega (octopus in oil doused in sweet paprika), cockles with oil and lemon and empanadas. It's nothing short of a seafood feast. 'There's a real sense of purity and generosity in Galician cooking,' Pizarro explains. 'It's not overly complicated – it respects the product', a fact that's very clear from our dinner. With the city's cathedral ticked off, its next most-visited site is Mercado de Abastos, the food market. Considering the compact city is home to just 185,000 people, this huge market proves the city's other religion is most certainly food. But it's not just a tourist attraction – it's a proper market used by chefs (where many of them choose to have their restaurants) and a place for locals to both eat and buy produce. After a breakfast stop at A Cafe for yoghurt bowls and toasted sandwiches, another of Pizarro's favourite hangouts, we cross the road and head to the market. Inside, tall arched ceilings cover the eight corridors, selling everything from seafood to meats and cheeses, with counters adorning both sides and stall owners vying for attention. They're bookended by stalls packed with brightly coloured fruit and vegetables that look impossibly shiny, with almost comically sized peppers that are easily the size of my head. I feel like Charlie walking into Willy Wonka's chocolate factory. Glass counters are packed with countless different cheeses and cured meats, or many types of prawns, including the famous gambas rojas (red prawns), oyster shells bigger than my hand, razor clams and gigantic brown crabs. Hanging above us are whole jamón legs and strings of salami, leaving just enough room for the seller's face to be visible to sell their wares. Every inch of counter space is stacked with tins of Galician mussels in escabeche or more charcuterie flavoured with varying spice levels. In corridor five, it's lunch to-go, Galician style, where you can take your market purchases and have them cooked for you. 'From 1pm, it's totally packed in here', explains Joaquín. Friday and Saturdays are busiest, though the rain and chilly 10 degrees Celsius means we avoid the crowds. Pizarro darts between counters and corridors with purpose. On his list is sobrasada, cheese and butter, essentials for visiting guests. 'The butter's the best in the world here,' he tells me and instantly I wish I could take some home. 'I tried to buy three packs but they said they need to save it,' he says slightly forlorn. Before moving on, he spots some black pudding and adds it to the list. 'I'll have that for breakfast – it has pine nuts and raisins in it. I love it,' he gushes. He asks the woman behind the deli counter to show me a cross section of the black pudding, excitably. 'It's the first time I've seen it here,' he says. He beams after finding a huge veal chop for just €8 (£6.80). 'It's the quality of the produce that makes Galician food stand out: wild-caught seafood straight from the Atlantic, incredible beef from native Galician cattle, lush green vegetables and artisanal cheeses,' Pizarro says. Unable to take much of the market's fresh offering home with me, I resign myself to some travel-friendly options. A packet of ruby red sliced jamón, tarta de Santiago – a deliciously dense and moist almond cake (cleverly packaged in a plane-safe box) topped with an icing sugar stencilled cross – and a tin of fancy Bonilla a La Vista Patatas Fritas crisps. 'This is life, isn't it?' Pizarro says, clearly as pleased with his haul as I am with mine. Surrounded by some of the best fresh produce in this grand market, and after eating near my bodyweight in Galicia's best seafood, I feel like I've come to the centre of my own food pilgrimage, connecting to the city, its people and producers through the love, admiration and respect it has for its food culture. I couldn't agree more with him. Good food is life. Where to eat in Santiago de Compostela
Telegraph
18-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Telegraph
The dos and don'ts of having a posh picnic
The spring/summer social season gets underway this week as the Chelsea Flower Show kicks off in London. Following hot on its heels will be the Cartier Queen's Cup, Royal Ascot and Henley Royal Regatta, among many other wonderful outdoor events. And this week, at least, the rain is holding off! If you're going to any of these and hosting friends too, you may want to up your picnic game. But there's no need to go full silver service, which frankly looks a bit naff these days. Instead, a mix of traditional crockery and practical, easy-to-serve dishes is the order of the day. Here, chefs Skye Gyngell and José Pizarro, who are collaborating at the Chelsea Flower Show pop-up restaurant Spring Garden, share their tips on how to put together a posh picnic. Posh doesn't have to mean expensive or fussy 'A salad of cooked beans – perhaps cannellini or borlotti – with olive oil, lemon zest, a touch of garlic, and plenty of herbs like parsley or dill is wonderful,' says Skye. 'I lean towards ingredients that hold their shape and improve in flavour as they sit. 'Beetroot is another favourite: roasted, then dressed with red wine vinegar, a little honey, and tossed with walnuts or goat's cheese. Grains like farro or barley also make a lovely base, carrying the flavours of seasonal vegetables and fresh herbs beautifully. 'I always gravitate towards dishes that are vibrant and unfussy. Something like smoked trout with noodles and chilli sauce that is deeply flavoured yet light, or a salad of broad beans, peas, spinach, cucumber, feta and purple basil that brings freshness. And I can't resist a crunchy summer slaw, using the best of what's in season – kale, carrot, beetroot, sour cherries, almonds, and a splash of balsamic work beautifully. Skye also recommends her poached chicken salad: 'Poach a whole chicken with garlic and thyme until tender. Once cooled, shred the meat and layer it over crisp iceberg lettuce. Sweet carrot and celery can add crunch, while toasted almonds bring richness. Finish the salad with a scattering of fragrant lovage. A bright dressing of extra virgin olive oil, lemon, and a touch of salt ties everything together – add this right before serving.' José agrees: 'Of course, I'm Spanish, so I would have a big plate of Jamón Ibérico, cheese, empanadas. You can also have skewers with vegetables, escalivada, and marinated chicken thighs. Bring a whole salmon with plenty of herbs and tomato salads. Growing up, we would have a Russian salad with potatoes, peas and carrots. 'You can pre-prepare a gazpacho or salmorejo and have it in the freezer. Preserved lemons are easy to make and great for salads or with cheese, cold meats, because of their saltiness. 'I used to have Spanish tortilla {potato omelette} with my parents, who were farmers, in Spain [José is from Extremadura]. You can make that in advance. One dish that is quite sentimental is chicken escalope. I remember when I was small, sitting outside looking after the animals and eating it. My mum had made it with flour, egg and breadcrumbs. I adore that.' Do use shop-bought – as long as it's quality Skye says: 'Perello olives are a favourite of mine – they are bright, briny, and full of character. A bag of really good quality crisps and perhaps a beautiful aioli from your local deli can turn even the simplest picnic into something special. And I can't recommend fresh sourdough bread enough – at Heckfield Home Farm's produce sales, we offer freshly baked loaves.' José agrees: 'Bring some olives – maybe deep fried and stuffed with manchego. And good, unsliced bread. You can just tear it apart at the picnic. And a tin of anchovies.' Don't forget about the temperature of meats and cheeses Skye says: 'Having a good picnic really comes down to keeping things cool and properly wrapped. For meats, I always pack them in a well-insulated cooler with plenty of ice packs — especially if they're cured or cooked ahead. You want to keep them at a safe temperature, but also protect their flavour and texture. With cheese, I avoid wrapping it in plastic – beeswax wraps or parchment are much better, as they let it breathe. And I always transport cheese in a cool bag, but let it come to room temperature just before serving. That way it's not sweaty or soggy, just soft enough and tasting as it should.' José adds: 'One cheese that does travel well is Torta del Casar. It's hard outside, soft inside, and you can serve it with croutons or bread. It looks good and is indulgent.' Do use what's in your garden Skye says: 'I always encourage people to grow what feels joyful and manageable—it should be a pleasure, not a chore. Tender herbs are a great starting point: chervil, tarragon, dill, and marjoram bring such freshness to dishes. Soft salad leaves like rocket, mustard frills, and sorrel add beautiful peppery and citrus notes. Edible flowers are wonderful for both flavour and beauty—nasturtiums for their gentle spice, violas for a soft sweetness, and borage with its lovely cucumber taste. 'If you have the space, grow a few heritage tomatoes or courgettes. Their flavour, fresh from the garden, is incomparable. 'Most recently I've been noticing more people gravitating towards pickled and fermented elements that bring a bright, lively note to dishes, whether it's quick-pickled cucumbers or a little sauerkraut tucked into sandwiches.' José says: 'I have a small patio, growing lemon verbena. Put it in your salad, then mix with edible flowers. It's pretty, but I always say if you put something in the food, you need to think of colours, flavours and textures too. I like very peppery leaves like rocket and crunchy lettuce leaves like oreja de burro or donkey's ear.' Don't bring mayonnaise – or anything that wilts 'Make your own dressing,' says José. 'Bring a small bottle of extra virgin olive oil.' Skye agrees. 'Add something simple like lemon and a touch of mustard – and shake it in a jam jar upright before serving. 'I tend to avoid foods that wilt, melt, or spoil easily in the warmth. Anything overly creamy or rich may not travel well or feel appealing outdoors. I'd also steer clear of complicated dishes that require last-minute assembly or are fussy to eat. A picnic should be generous, simple, and relaxed.' Don't use paper plates or plastics where possible 'I always prefer to use proper plates and cutlery, even when dining outdoors,' says Skye. It not only minimises waste, which is so important, but it also elevates the whole experience.' 'Paper plates and plastic are a no-no,' says José. 'It's about proper glasses, cutlery, proper plates, even bamboo ones. 'A beautiful tablecloth and proper napkins make it even more special. You could also use something from your grandparents, an heirloom. Make it comfortable with chairs, cushions and a table. And if you can, bring a bunch of beautiful seasonal flowers.' Do think about sustainability when transporting food Skye says: 'I like to keep things simple and practical, but always with a touch of beauty. I tend to use sturdy baskets to transport everything – they prevent things from sliding around and look lovely when you arrive. For the food itself, I prefer reusable containers and waxed cloth wraps rather than foil or clingfilm wherever possible. They keep things fresh without too much waste. If a dish is particularly delicate, I'll sometimes nestle it into a tin or a ceramic dish with a lid.' José agrees. 'Always use glass containers for packing, as it is more sustainable. Use muslin for wrapping your bread. Clingfilm is a no-no for me. It's very important to make sure everything is sealed and don't pack anything when it is hot. Plus, make sure any pre-prepared dishes are defrosted.' Do amp up the drinks 'I love homemade cordials – elderflower or rhubarb and sweet cicely – with sparkling water,' says Skye. 'For something a little stronger, a well-chilled rosé or a simple white wine works beautifully outdoors.' José adds, like a true Spaniard: 'Cava or Sangria is always good. Don't go for an Aperol Spritz, it's too complicated. Cava is value for money and no Prosecco! It's too sweet.' Or there's always Pimm's, of course! And finally… Do think about wildlife and potential food thieves José says: 'Outside once with my partner Peter [Meades], we had made beautiful lamb cutlets. We went into the kitchen briefly and the seagulls bloody took all of them – and they were hot!' Do have a backup plan Skye says: 'Maybe it's my Australian upbringing, but I've always felt there's a certain temperature it needs to be for people to feel truly relaxed. So, don't hesitate to move things undercover if the weather turns. A picnic isn't meant to be a battle with the elements.' Don't forget dessert 'I like a lot of fruit,' says José. 'Strawberries, cherries, or roasted peaches with honey and lavender from the garden.' Skye adds: 'Or you can bring a lovely cake with seasonal jams.' Don't forget to enjoy it! 'Our senses are more alive when we're in nature, which allows us to be more present,' says Skye. 'I think that can make even the simplest food feel more delicious, more memorable.' José agrees. 'Picnics are about not being in a hurry, not being stressed. In Spain, we have some music too. I love jazz or flamenco when I'm setting everything up, maybe Paco de Lucia or Camarón de la Isla. It's all about being with the people you like and creating memories. Everything tastes better when it's sunny.' Open during RHS Chelsea Flower Show from May 20 to 24, Spring Garden is a collaboration between luxury London caterer AP&Co and celebrity chef Skye Gyngell, with renowned restaurateur José Pizarro joining the team for 2025. To book your tickets visit:
Times
03-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Times
How the Spanish do alfresco dining, by José Pizarro
A sunny bank holiday is on the cards but the Spanish chef and restaurateur José Pizarro is looking further ahead. 'I have already been thinking about what I will serve when I have friends in the garden this summer, in London but also at my house on the coast in Spain,' he says. As the chef responsible for introducing Brits to authentic, really Spanish food, and with six restaurants in the UK, Pizarro knows how to deliver crowd-pleasers, even if the English weather means he is more often than not doing so inside. So what are his golden rules for outdoor feasting? Don't try to show off 'It's the one thing I will never do: serve something cheffy,' Pizarro explains. 'When I am hosting a barbecue I don't want to see any stupid, fussy things. Hosting is about everyone having fun and that includes myself, so anything complicated is a no, no, no for me.' Serve white sangria as soon as guests arrive As he is Spanish, the answer is of course sangria — but Pizarro prefers white sangria made with cava over the traditional red sort made with wine. 'You make it exactly in the same way: fill a jug with fruits, although with white sangria I don't add lemon, I put in oranges instead, with stone fruits and strawberries,' he says. 'Add a bit of sugar and a splash of brandy to bring all the flavours together. With normal red wine sangria you'll add the wine at this point and then soda but I just leave it like this until I am ready to serve so it marinates. Then just before serving, I add a lot of ice and cava. It's absolutely delicious.' Anchovies make the best starter 'Anchovies are king,' Pizarro says. The best kind, he adds, are the Cantabrian Reserva Catalina: 'They are huge and meaty.' During the summer months his favourite way to serve anchovies is with grated tomatoes. 'Cut a tomato in half, grate it on to a big plate and add some extra virgin olive oil, a touch of lemon juice and some grated garlic. Put the anchovies on top and you have an absolutely stunning dish. I have that all the time in summer because the tomatoes then are so nice.' It's OK to buy some things in Not everything needs to be made from scratch. 'I always make sure I have bowls of olives and I am Spanish so I will always make sure that I have lots of jamon. My favourite thing to do, which I recently did, is to treat myself to a bowl of caviar, which I put on ice. I then cook a big bag of French fries and dip them in. It is stunning.' Seafood, seafood, seafood 'Prawns, mussels, grilled fish — they're always a winner for summer parties,' Pizarro says. For a simple prawn dish he makes a salad of fennel, lettuce and oranges, and serves it with a simple honey vinaigrette. 'I'll brush the prawns with a bit of oil and then barbecue them whole so that the head is still on. It goes perfectly with that salad.' Don't forget vegetables 'Aside from a rack of Iberico pork ribs and prawns, I will make sure that I have lots of gorgeous vegetables on my grill too — courgettes, tomatoes, aubergines,' he says. 'I will make a really nice escalivada from roast tomatoes, peppers, onions and aubergine. But if you're serving vegetables the best thing to do is to make a romesco sauce the night before to make them taste delicious.' To make a romesco sauce, heat the oven to 180C, then place three ripe peppers and three ripe tomatoes on a baking tray and drizzle with olive oil. When slightly charred, leave to cool. Blend with 100g toasted almonds and 100g hazelnuts until smooth. Season with salt and sherry vinegar. Have a dessert table It's good to keep the mains and starters straightforward but dessert is the time to shine. 'I love my tables of dessert and I love having a lot of things there,' Pizarro admits. Alongside bowls of cherries and platters of fresh strawberries is Pizarro's go-to summer dessert: roasted stone fruit. 'Roast some stone fruit like peaches. They smell like sunshine. Peel them and blanch them just a little bit to remove the skins, and remove the stone. One per person. Then put honey on top, a lot of orange juice and lavender. Roast in the oven for 15 minutes, baste and then roast for another five. When you put that on the table, everyone gets lost. It's so beautiful you just want to stay there with your friends, eating for another hour.' What should you ask guests to bring? There are no tactics, Pizarro says. 'Look, people usually arrive with a bottle of wine or, better, an extra virgin olive oil but I don't ask anyone. Tell them to come hungry and thirsty and then your job is to make sure you have plenty of everything — drinks, food and hopefully, if we are lucky, sunshine.'
Times
03-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Times
How the Spanish do alfresco dining, by José Pizarro
A sunny bank holiday is on the cards but the Spanish chef and restaurateur José Pizarro is looking further ahead. 'I have already been thinking about what I will serve when I have friends in the garden this summer, in London but also at my house on the coast in Spain,' he says. As the chef responsible for introducing Brits to authentic, really Spanish food, and with six restaurants in the UK, Pizarro knows how to deliver crowd-pleasers, even if the English weather means he is more often than not doing so inside. So what are his golden rules for outdoor feasting? 'It's the one thing I will never do: serve something cheffy,' Pizarro explains. 'When I am hosting a barbecue I don't want to
