22-05-2025
What it's like travelling through the Canadian Rockies on board a luxury train
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It's hard to choose a favourite moment when you're travelling on the Rocky Mountaineer train, but one unexpected pleasure on a recent journey came when I was standing on the train's open-air vestibule trying to get a closer look at a bald eagle perched on a nest at the edge of a lake somewhere between Vancouver and Kamloops, B.C.
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I was so focused on trying to video the beautiful scene that I didn't notice the tunnel up ahead. Most of the other passengers went inside when the train entered the long, dark tunnel, but I couldn't resist shouting at the top of my lungs just to hear the satisfying echo. I'm not sure if any other guests used the vestibule for tunnel shouting, but if they didn't do it, they missed out.
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There are many surprises on the Journey Through the Clouds Rockies Highlights itinerary with Rocky Mountaineer. While the two-day train journey from Vancouver to Jasper, Alberta is the unequivocal highlight of the six-day trip, there are wonderful experiences to enjoy at each of the stops along the way.
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We started the trip with a two-night stay at the Fairmont Waterfront hotel, a beautiful property with great views of the Vancouver waterfront and free West Coast Cruiser bicycles to help guests explore it. My husband and I geared up for the trip with a Flyover the Rockies experience with Flyover Vancouver and we also spent an afternoon on Granville Island. When we weren't exploring or relaxing in the rooftop pool, we enjoyed some fantastic dining experiences at the hotel's on-site restaurant, ARC including the Sip & Shuck experience that involves sipping cocktails and B.C. wine while learning how to shuck (and eat) fresh oysters.
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The train ride
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After two days of fun, we gathered in the lobby of the hotel for our bus transfer to the Rocky Mountaineer train station. There's something almost magical about train travel and Rocky Mountaineer has made an art form of it with incredible dining and personal attention — especially on the GoldLeaf service that we experienced. The train is equipped with comfortable seats and broad windows that offer fantastic views of incredible mountain scenery, including some waterfalls and other sites that are only accessible by rail. Knowledgeable cabin hosts announce points of interest along the way and provide information and facts about the history and wildlife.
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'No two days are the same,' admitted Wendy McMichael, a senior general manager who has worked for Rocky Mountaineer for 14 years and was onboard during our trip. 'I'm still like a kid when I hear a wildlife call. I'm plastered up to the window with everyone else.'
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A luxury train journey is a romantic trip and over the years, McMichael has seen several wedding proposals, marriages and vow renewal ceremonies. No matter which level of service you choose (SilverLeaf or GoldLeaf), the meals are wonderful and even though we weren't served dinner onboard, I wasn't very hungry when we stopped in Kamloops overnight.