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The Rise Of The LaBuBu And Friends: Why Bag Charms Are Taking Over Our Birkins

Sometimes your accessories need an extra oomph to stand out in a sea of competition. Chaotic customization is so hot right now. But the question is, is this more than just a passing fad? Spend a good amount of time on social media and you're likely to have come across a content creator whose bags are decorated with a chockfull of bag charms, or someone teaching you how to customise your old sneakers in new ways with beads, patches and laces. Welcome to the era of 'chaotic customisation'. The phrase – which was coined by trend forecasting company WGSN – encapsulates a reaction to how Gen Z shoppers have been actively finding new ways to customise their belongings. On TikTok, social media monitoring platform Traackr logged an increase of 438 per cent more mentions of the term ' bag charms ' in 2024 as compared to the year before. It also noted that there were 339 per cent more content creators talking about the idea of bag charms – from unboxing videos to how-to guides – to their millions of followers. 'I noticed a big spike in customers' interest in my charms back in March 2024, and since then, it's not waned,' says Sandra Williargo, the founder of KIKYO. The indie brand is very popular with Gen Z shoppers, with many flocking to snap up Sandra's handmade bag and shoe charms. Sandra reminisces how she first noticed the shift when she did one of her pop-up stores, and a limited run of bag charms sold comparatively faster than her once-loved necklaces and earrings, which were still available by the end of the pop-up. 'Customers are still constantly writing in to ask if we would restock our bag charms,' she laughs. The rise of chaotic customisation has also allowed many to get involved in the making of their own charms and accoutrements. There's a certain level of democracy that exists within this DIY-friendly movement, because you don't need expensive fabrics or sewing know-how to start making things. All you need to have are a handful of beads and a lot of creativity. 'I love customising my belongings because it's a powerful way of expressing myself, and it's a great conversation starter,' says Los Angeles-based content creator Connie Wi. Since late 2023, Connie has gone viral on TikTok multiple times for her tutorials on how to customise sneakers, often with the use of lace ribbons, ropes of pearls and even actual charms. 'In this fastmoving digital age, it's a meaningful way to slow down and breathe new life into pieces already in my wardrobe.' Over a conversation with us, Connie recounts that she's always been a fan of DIY. Her feed is a treasure trove on how her over 200,000-strong community of followers can also recreate Connie's nail art, jewellery stacks and her approach to personalising her pair of Adidas Sambas. 'The lockdown in 2020 motivated me to dive deeper into the world of DIY', she shares. 'With nothing to do, I turned to crafting as a way to boost my serotonin. I made bag charms, shoe charms, and press-on nails and documented my DIY projects on TikTok!' Connie is also joined by Singaporean fashion content creator Savina Chow. If you've followed Savina's content for a while, you'd know that she showcases different ways to incorporate bag charms into her outfits. Yet unlike Connie, whose style very much appeals to the younger generation with her penchant for uber-cute motifs and pastel colours, Savina has found a way to showcase the trend of chaotic customisation for an audience made up of more mature viewers. Savina tells us, 'In my opinion, this trend isn't targeted at just Gen Z-ers,' when asked if she feels that chaotic customisation is a trend that unwittingly leaves out certain groups of people due to their age. 'I think because I interact with my followers and am clear of their age group and profile, I know that they look to me to interpret these trends in a way that works for them.' And she does just that. Savina's take on the trend often feels more polished and elevated: less beads and pastels, and more luxe leathers and richer, deeper tones. On her social media feed, Savina can be seen toting her Birkin bags with an army of bag charms, keychains and tags. Even though it's a hot trend now, it's also not new. Since the dawn of time, humans have long sought to define their mark, to say 'I am here, this is me'. Ancient Romans had their names marked on the inside of the pottery that they made, while people in the Middle Ages often had their gifts personalised to the recipient as a sign of affluence and wealth. We've gone from customising our nails and handphone straps to customising our headphones and sneaker laces. In fact, the whole hype over bag charms came from the passing of Jane Birkin, whose namesake bag from Hermès first gave rise to the 'Birkin-fying your bag' movement that encouraged people to pile every bag charm they had onto their own Birkins. 'We've always been looking for new ways to customise things as an extension of self-identity and expressing our personality,' Savina reflects. 'It used to be notebooks when we were in school, or how we love to adorn our laptops with stickers, and still do. The only thing that's new about it is that it's now bag charms, but tomorrow, it could take on an entirely different medium. The intention still remains constant.' Savina also raises a good point: this isn't a trend that is fuelled by a specific look or item. Instead, it's all about the process that makes this trend resonate with far more people. The trend of leopard spots may only appeal to a few, but with chaotic customisation, it has a wider reach because of the way that it can look so different and unique based on who is doing it. There is a joyful nature and unbridled creativity that makes this act of customisation exciting to watch as it evolves from person to person. And it's likely not going anywhere, either. This S/S 25 season, chaotic customisation has already shown its effects. Bag charms are the clear go-to at Fendi and Stella McCartney, but why stop there, when you have glimmering Crocs embellished with hundreds of crystals from Simone Rocha, stickers all over a Coach bag and belts piled-on at Miu Miu? Quiet luxury be damned, this is the return of 'more is more.' 'I would go as far to say that the reason why us Gen Z-ers are in love with this is a direct generational response to the beige minimalism of the millennials,' declares Connie. 'We know that Gen Z are outspoken in challenging quiet luxury and minimalism, so it's no surprise that we've embraced full-on maximalism.' Savina agrees with Connie, and goes further to say that: 'fundamentally, it's in our human nature to want to express ourselves.' When discussing its staying power, she highlights that unlike other trends that include changing hemlines or new colours of the season, the act of personalisation will continue to prevail through time. 'Maybe it'll be different in the next cycle,' Savina says. 'Perhaps next time, it might be customising your perfume bottles or something else, but each generation will always have their own interpretation of the act of personalisation. That's what makes this trend feel so accessible right now – you're tapping into something that's bigger than you as much as you're showing the world who you are.' Imagery supplied. Lead Image: Large Andiamo Bag in Natural Light Wood, Dhs26,800; Summer 24 Odyssey Book Collection: A Collaborative Journey by Bottega Veneta and Matthieu Blazy, POA; Aviator Glasses, Dhs1,140, all Bottega Veneta. Glasses Case; Long Necklace in Grey Resin, POA, both Chanel. Triomphe Hair Cuff, Dhs1,950, Celine. Puzzle Fold Charm in Orange, Dhs1,350, Loewe; Brown Resin Bag Charm, Dhs830, Louis Vuitton; La Pausa Resin Brooch, Dhs1,100, Chanel; Tricolour Woven Leather Mule, Dhs990, Miu Miu, all available at The Luxury Closet. Passport Cover, Dhs1,370, Louis Vuitton. Lip Phone Case, Dhs130, Rhode. Lightening Connector Earpods, Dhs80, Apple. 'I Love Rich Boys' Badge; Miu Miu Strings, both Stylist's own