Latest news with #KellySheridan
Yahoo
17-04-2025
- Science
- Yahoo
The Microfibre Consortium Examines Why Fibers Fragment
Natural fabrics fragment more fibers than their synthetic foils, a report by The Microfibre Consortium (TMC) found. The multi-stakeholder initiative has shared the first in-depth statistical analysis of its data portal to 'identify the material factors most likely to influence fiber fragmentation.' More from Sourcing Journal EXCLUSIVE: Can Fashion Finally Fix Its Microfiber Pollution Problem? Fiber Hub Research Center to Explore Microfibers' Eco Impact, Skeptics Aside Fiber Fragmentation Scale Measuring Microplastics Developed in Edinburgh The technical research report, titled 'Root Cause Analysis: Unravelling the Root Causes Behind Fiber Fragmentation in Textiles,' builds on an October update about the multi-stakeholder initiative's efforts to analyze consortium data and better understand the root causes of fiber fragmentation. To that end, the large-scale Root Cause Analysis (RCA) studied 1,000-plus TMC Test Method-trialed fabrics housed in The Microfibre Data Portal to glean insights on the pollution pathways contributing to initial laundering loss. The resulting, reportedly first-of-its-kind findings identified the material characteristics most likely to influence fiber fragmentation according to TMC's dataset. 'The publication of this report marks a significant milestone in the fashion and textile industry's efforts to address the challenge of fiber fragmentation,' said Kelly Sheridan, TMC's CEO. 'The research has been extensive and robust, which is only possible thanks to the collective data contributions of our signatories.' The key fabric characteristics identified as significant contributors to fiber fragmentation include composition, fabric structure, yarn type, dyeing and finishing. Composition-wise, fabrics made from natural fibers (like cotton and MMCFs) release more fiber fragments than their synthetic counterparts (like polyester and nylon). TMC attributed this finding to the 'higher hairiness and lower durability' of most natural materials compared to synthetics, which are often made from longer, more cohesive filament yarns. Structurally speaking: Woven fabrics generally exhibited lower fiber fragmentation than knitted fabrics, likely due to increased strength and tighter structure. Within knitted structures, warp-knitted structures were linked to decreased fiber fragmentation compared to weft-knitted structures. Higher fabric density (thread count or stitch density) was also associated with lower average fiber fragmentation. Fabrics made from filament yarns showed reduced fiber fragmentation compared to those made from staple yarns. Among staple yarn fabrics, increased staple length and higher yarn twist aligned with decreased average fiber fragmentation. Undyed fabrics were associated with higher fiber fragmentation rates than piece-dyed fabrics. Yarn-dyed fabrics were associated with less fiber fragmentation than piece-dyed fabrics as well. Lastly, the finishing stage was identified as a 'strong influencer' of fiber fragmentation. Chemically speaking, hydrophilic finishes had higher predicted fiber fragmentation, while hydrophobic finishes and some softening agents had lower fiber fragmentation. Laminated or bonded fabrics, too, showed lower fragmentation. Mechanically speaking, finishing techniques like brushing, compacting and tumbling were linked to increased fiber fragmentation. Alternatively, finishes processes designed to create smoother-feeling fabrics appeared linked to reduced fragmentation. Despite existing research, the report noted, gaps remain. Without standardized testing or detailed fabric specs, the TMC shared challenges in comparing studies and pinpointing causes of fiber shedding, making real-world solutions 'difficult' to employ. 'We're proud to lead this global effort, but the path forward depends on continued collaboration and the sustained support of companies that sign the Microfibre 2030 Commitment,' said Sheridan. 'With this data, we're closer than ever to meaningful solutions.' The multi-stakeholder initiative employed a 'rigorous methodological approach.' With research based on a large-scale global study involving the testing of over 1,000 diverse fabrics, the testing utilized data housed in The Microfibre Data Portal, which houses standardized test results and respective fabric specifications. TMC's methodology involved using its 'internationally-aligned' TMC Test Method. This method simulates domestic laundering conditions to measure fiber loss by weight from fabrics. The quantification of fiber loss is performed through gravimetric analysis. For each fabric, multiple specimens are tested before the data is averaged. TMC took a machine learning approach to analyze this dataset—primarily Random Forest (RF) modeling. This commonly used algorithm combines the output of multiple decision 'trees' to reach a single result, per IBM's definition. In turn, TMC could assess the effect of various fabric characteristics on fiber fragmentation. The RF model also helped identify patterns and relationships—and the relative importance of such variables—in predicting fiber shedding. Outside of machine learning, TMC tapped box and whisker plots to visually compare the average fiber fragment loss against data distribution across different groups. The data used, by the way, came from signatories of the Microfibre 2030 Commitment who submitted testing data and fabric technical specifications to the aforementioned portal—likely influencing why only 56 percent of the portal was analyzed. 'For the machine learning methods applied in this study, 634 of 1129 fabrics were analyzed, as only fabrics with complete data in the variables selected for analysis can be used for the statistical methods employed,' the report said. TMC said the study marks a 'pivotal step' in addressing fiber fragmentation at its root, and should, ultimately, equip the industry with 'data-driven insights' to design lower-shedding fabrics. With the RCA report now completed, TMC is moving into the next phase: filling those gaps. 'To build on this progress, continued research and collective learning are essential,' the report concluded. 'By fostering an open exchange of data and insights, we can drive meaningful advancements in textile design, development and manufacturing, ensuring that future mitigation solutions are both scientifically robust and widely applicable across the industry.'
Yahoo
30-01-2025
- Science
- Yahoo
Fiber Hub Research Center to Explore Microfibers' Eco Impact, Skeptics Aside
While we know (and have known) that microfibers are bad, we're still fine-tuning the parameters to grade just how bad. It's one of the reasons why the Microfibre Consortium (TMC) is leading research in North East England exploring textile microfiber's extent and environmental impact. In collaboration with Northumbria University, the multi-stakeholder initiative has unveiled the research hub housing that exploration, hoping to assist the next generation of designers and their future material—ideally non-shedding—innovations. More from Sourcing Journal When the Cure Turns to Poison: Renting Jeans Not So Green, French Researchers Find Fiber Fragmentation Scale Measuring Microplastics Developed in Edinburgh Achieving Socially Fair Decarbonization in Fashion Supply Chains 'Recent research has shown that the clothes we wear are shedding microfibers throughout their entire lifespan, from textile manufacture through to everyday wear,' the collaborators said in a statement. 'Even microfibers from fabrics considered 'natural,' such as cotton, can have a negative impact on the environment, as manufacturing processes introduce chemical dyes and finishes to the fabric so that it is no longer in its natural state.' The Fiber-fragmentation and Environmental Research (FiBER) Hub is on the business school's Newcastle campus. The collaboratively created center plans to expand on existing industry knowledge of microfibers by testing a myriad of materials in various environments to measure fiber loss and its subsequent environmental impact. 'The Fiber Hub features state-of-the-art equipment which will allow researchers to understand exactly what and how much fiber a fabric sheds at each stage of its lifespan,' Northumbria said. This will complement existing research primarily focused on microfibers shed during laundry. 'The Fiber Hub collaboration enables TMC to draw on the interdisciplinary skills and technical capabilities of Northumbria and the Impact+ team to expand our knowledge offering to our signatory community,' said Dr. Kelly Sheridan, CEO of TMC and associate professor at Northumbria. 'Through this collaboration, the TMC research team will provide direction to relevant research informed by industry needs, to go beyond what is possible today and create robust, wide ranging and comprehensive lifespan data on fiber fragmentation.' The hub was set up as part of the Impact+ Network, a multidisciplinary cohort launched in 2023—supported by brands like Asos and funded by UK government(ish) bodies like the UKRI—to challenge how the fashion and textile sector currently measures and assesses environmental impact. 'This strategic partnership reflects the core aim of the Impact+ Network by focusing on microfibers as an overlooked and unmeasured environmental pollutant,' said Northumbria's Dr. Alana James, principal investigator for the project. 'Interdisciplinary collaboration with design and environmental science will enable our research to reduce fiber shedding at the root cause, whilst implementing these insights directly within an industry setting.' Not everyone is convinced the consortium has the credibility to do such complementary work. In a report published by the Bremen Cotton Exchange the self-described raw material 'competence center' compiled microplastic research by analyst Veronica Bates Kassatly and statistician Dr. Terry Townsend to explore the effect of micro- and nanoplastics on human health. In doing so, the duo discovered a conflict of interest. 'The sources tapped by both the French and EU PEFs to evaluate microfiber impact are not scientific organizations, but entities created and funded by vested interests,' Bremen said in a statement. 'The conflicts of interest stemming from the involvement of stakeholders deeply tied to the production of plastic apparel undermine the scientific foundations of environmental legislation and impede the effective management of long-term environmental challenges.' For context, plastic microfibers are categorized differently than other microfibers, which must be made clear in life cycle assessments (LCAs) standard and the European Union's Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) method. Thus, non-NGOs should be excluded from making such designations for the potential of both scientific and political conflict; which is curious, per the paper, as the TMC is a private company limited by guarantee without share capital, per 2018 incorporation filings. 'Examination of recent filings shows that since inception, the company has averaged 4-6 employees and no fixed assets. TMC has neither the staff nor the facilities to be a research institute,' reads the report, which clarified that none of the opinions expressed are those of the authors or the financiers. It also goes on to say the TMC lacks credibility for not having published any peer-reviewed research of its own and calls attention to the consortium's signatories—specifically their tax brackets. 'On what grounds TMC is qualified to act as one of only two sources to inform the microfiber complement of what is intended to be an obligatory environmental footprint label applicable to all apparel and textiles sold in France is unclear and raises questions about scientific rigor,' the paper reads, suggesting the TMC work under the belief fiber issues are solved with fiber solutions, and chemistry issues are solved with chemistry solutions. 'If TMC is convinced that functionalizations pose a serious toxicity threat to which nobody is paying sufficient attention, we would agree.' Sheridan was quick to retort, introducing the Fiber Hub as an exhibit. '[Fiber Hub] brings multidisciplinary academics from forensic science, design, environmental sciences and big data, all under one roof, and will boost the evidence available to all partners who are involved in achieving the aims of The Microfibre 2030 Commitment,' she wrote in a statement penned earlier today. 'Overall, this suggests that neither the size of an organization, nor its legal set up, influence its ability to coordinate and direct scientific work.'
