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The National

Ken by Kamatsuda review: An authentic Japanese experience that's more than just expensive tasting menus

Dubai boasts a rich tapestry of diverse gastronomic styles, and the influence of East Asia threads through almost every menu in the city. But Ken by Kamatsuda is different. This isn't an international venue. This isn't safe, watered-down Japanese fare. This is an authentic ishoku dogen concept, with the focus on high-quality and healthy ingredients, that honours centuries of culinary heritage. Its interactive omakase tasting menus, costing up to Dh5,000 per person, have been the headline grabbers since the restaurant opened in March, and rightly so. But Ken by Kamatsuda offers far more than culinary excellence. If I were to sum it up in one word, it would be pride. From chef Ken himself to the desk staff, everyone there is intimately tuned in to the project. They are proud of the food, proud of the venue, proud of the gastronomic heritage and proud of Japan. Ken by Kamatsuda is on first floor of the Edition Hotel in Downtown Dubai with a minimalist interior and subtle lighting. On arrival, you are immediately struck by the meeting of old and new with decor that combines traditional Japanese themes and the modernity that Dubai is so famous for. Calligraphy by Japanese artist Bisen Aoyagi is on display alongside ikebana by floral artist Ryota Hagiwara. A grand piano dominates the centre of the restaurant, adding a sense of serenity through the gentle rhythm of the music. Indoor and outdoor seating is available, and the piece de resistance is the open kitchen. This adds to the restaurant's air of authenticity, with Chef Ken visibly leading his highly trained team. The kitchen is lined by a sushi counter, with stools for diners. It's here that my dining partner and I choose to sit so we can enjoy our food while observing the artisans at work. We go for the Gokan set menu (Dh2,500 per person), which loosely translates to 'the five senses' and showcases 13 dishes. First up is the luxury bowl, which combines Awa Wagyu steak and Hokkaido scallops with caviar and Japanese rice. It's as elegant, and extravagant, as it sounds and sets the tone for what's to come. Omar chawanmushi follows, which is lobster and blue crab in a bisque sauce. The shellfish is cooked for three hours and, with egg added, the end result is silky smooth and packed with flavour. Next, it's time for sushi, where chef Mark rhythmically showcases the omakase experience. It's perhaps here where the uniqueness of this restaurant becomes most apparent. It's not extravagant for extravagance's sake, it's the embodiment of a genuine love for food. Chef Mark takes particular pride in showing us the raw wasabi plant he is using and stresses that there is no need for us to add seasoning, because he has already done so with surgeon-like precision. Another highlight follows and it's a perfect moment for diners looking for an Instagram money shot. The Wagyu ice bowl is hand-carved in front of us by Chef Ken's team to showcase Wagyu beef served sashimi-style. Next comes the Unkai, which pays homage to Mount Fuji and its sea of clouds. It features Wagyu tataki served within a glass dome, which is slowly lifted by chef Mark to delicately release the smoke, and complemented by sweet apple and onion sauce which bring out the richness of the steak's fat. The cutlet sandwich follows. Arguably the most straightforward dish on the menu, its simplicity is what makes it so delightful. The Awa Wagyu tenderloin is dipped in garlic butter sauce and sandwiched between sweet brioche bread with aged yakiniku sauce. If I could eat this every day, I would. Premium Wagyu steak comes next - A5-grade beef with the highest marbling score of 12. It's grilled and finely cut, served with balsamic sauce and mashed potato. An artistic dish follows, with the Awa Wagyu yakisukiyaki reimagining sukiyaki by complementing sirloin steak with egg yolk sauce and a poached egg. This is prepared with candy floss and soy to give it a rich and sweet finish. Last but not least for the savoury dishes comes the Japanese pot rice. This combines salmon roe with Awa Wagyu, topped with seafood flown in from Japan. It is finished with a sauce made by simmering apples, leeks, lemons and garlic and aged for one week. This eclectic combination of flavours is a sophisticated conclusion to an exquisite selection of savoury plates. For dessert my dining partner and I are treated to coconut ice cream that's churned in front of us and then scooped over fruit compote. From our experience of Ken by Kamatsuda, there is no disappointing dish. However, it might not be ideal for vegan and vegetarian diners, as this is a restaurant that prides itself on premium meat and seafood. There are three tasting menus available. The Hajime/Wagyu selection costs Dh1,350 per person, the Gokan/Wagyu and seasonal fish course selection costs Dh2,500 per person, while the Maboroshi Wagyu beef, king crab and special sea urchin menu costs Dh5,000. While there is no a la carte menu, the standout dish for my dining partner and I is the Unkai. It has a bit of everything – delightful flavour, high-quality steak and it's served in a novel and beautiful way. Chef Ken Kamatsuda is the brains behind this remarkable restaurant, having perfected his craft at French restaurants in Azabu-Juban, Tokyo. He tells me his food philosophy is encapsulated by his appreciation for traditional Japanese art such as calligraphy, ikebana (flower arrangement) and kabuki performance, 'particularly in terms of aesthetics and course composition'. His favourite ingredient is, perhaps not surprisingly, Awa Wagyu. The award-winning Japanese beef is produced in only very limited quantities, even in Japan. 'We present it in a variety of preparations that highlight its characteristics – delicately pressed into nigiri sushi, grilled into a tender steak with assorted garnishes, served as our popular Wagyu cutlet sandwich, and in our signature sukiyaki,' he says. 'Each dish is designed to fully express the unique qualities of this exceptional ingredient.' Chef Ken is keen to stress that his philosophy is guided by the principle of ishoku dogen – the belief that food and medicine are rooted in the same source. 'I strive to bring out the natural power of each ingredient,' he says. 'My philosophy is to create dishes that engage all five senses – not only the taste, but also sizzling sound, attracting aroma, different textures and visual presentation,' he adds. 'I am also deeply particular about the tools we use. Each dish is carefully crafted using Sakai knives, which [have] over 600 years of tradition in Japan.' For vegans, he recommends the amela gari tomato and suggests the mushroom claypot rice is the most suitable dish for vegetarians. He describes the tenderloin steak, king crab and Wagyu shabu-shabu as the healthiest option at his restaurant. For seafood lovers, his top tips are the nodoguro nigiri, tuna otoro nigiri, sea urchin gunkan, or the king crab. The Awa Wagyu steak, Awa Wagyu cutlet sandwich and Awa Wagyu claypot rice are his go-to options for meat connoisseurs. As for dessert, it's the tableside coconut ice cream that gets the nod. Ken by Kamatsuda is at the Edition Hotel in Downtown Dubai. It is open daily from 6pm to 2am. You can book by calling 04 570 4316. This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant.