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Karoo farmstays in the Eastern Cape: Old stables, farm museums and railways
The Eastern Cape Karoo, arguably the unsung hero of all South African travel destinations, is famous for its country hospitality, its adventure options, and its historic old farmsteads full of stories and friendly faces.
Planning to visit the Eastern Cape Karoo? From your next honeymoon destination to farm wedding venues, Julienne du Toit shares her curated list of must-visit places in her homeland.
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Imagine building a two-storey mansion, complete with a sprung-floor ballroom, for you and your British officer friends on a farm in the vastness of the Eastern Cape Karoo.
Imagine surrounding the house with lovely gardens, tall poplars and cypresses, and adding elegant touches like little stone bridges over water furrows where water rushes down. Imagine stabling more than 200 thoroughbred brood mares on this farm to give birth to famous racehorses. That's the 120-year-old legacy of Henry Nourse, a Randlord, sportsman, soldier and renowned horse breeder.
Greatorex, for example, was the Champion Sire of South Africa from 1911 to 1914 and then again from 1917 to 1922. The body of this great stallion was buried somewhere on this farm.
In modern times, the new owners have had to reimagine its use.
The Dwarsvlei Farm mansion is a guest house, sheds have become wedding and event venues, and the old stables have been renovated into sleep-overs for sportsmen and women who run trails, ride their mountain bikes on challenging paths or prefer veld hiking across the farm. In June or July every year, Dwarsvlei hosts the fabulous Karoo Winter Wool Festival.
Facilities: The magnificent old house can sleep 12 people. Only one bedroom is en suite, and most of the others have access to their own bathroom, usually across the corridor. The Wi-Fi is strong, there is a pool, a spacious lounge and great fireplaces for winter. Wild Olive is a rustic off-grid mountain cottage with magnificent views that sleeps up to six people. You could also camp or stay in simple accommodation in the old stables. Bring your mountain bike if you have one, or just go for long rambles in the veld and the poplar grove.
Where: Dwarsvlei is about 15km south of Middelburg, Eastern Cape, on the N9. The entrance is well signposted.
Contact: WhatsApp Sarah van Lingen at 066 220 2218 or 082 466 7291; [email protected]
Tweefontein Guest House on Blaauwater Farm, Nieu-Bethesda
Blaauwater Farm is an Eastern Cape heritage farm owned by the Kingwill family and set like a gleaming jewel in the crown of the Lootsberg Valley on the way to Nieu-Bethesda.
In times gone by, the Graaff-Reinet–Middelburg rail line ran through this landscape. The old steam trains would chug and creak their way loudly up and over the summit of the Lootsberg Pass. The nearest rail stop is Blaauwater Siding, near an old Kingwill family graveyard.
In deep winter, the Lootsberg Pass, constructed by Andrew Geddes Bain in 1858, is often hidden deep in snowfall. However, once you make your way through, a couple of chilly nights spent snuggled into the comforts of Tweefontein Guest House would be just the ticket.
Restored in 2016, the exterior of the elegant farmhouse resembles a Karoo country mansion of a century ago. Inside, however, there's a careful blend of classic décor (period fireplace, high ceilings, gleaming yellowwood floors) and modern conveniences.
Early morning coffee is best taken on the front stoep, with livestock frontage in the foreground and the Wapadsberg Pass in the distance. You have your sundowners on the back stoep, as the Lootsberg's ironstone krantzes turn pink in the late afternoon. If it's windy or rainy, retire to the enclosed braai and entertainment room.
Facilities: The house can sleep nine, with four bedrooms and two bathrooms, two lounges (one with a fireplace) and DStv. The kitchen is beautifully equipped. There is a gas and electric stove, a dishwasher and even a washing machine.
Where: Roughly midway (about 50km) on the N9 between Middelburg and Graaff-Reinet is the sign for Tweefontein Guest House.
Contacts: Liesl Kingwill at 082 806 9015;
Ganora Guest Farm, Nieu-Bethesda
Ganora, which offers views of the iconic Compassberg peak, is one of the Karoo's premier farmstays. It also lies directly on the local 'fossil trail' — a rich band of ancient mudstone on the flanks of the Wilge River, which flows through the farm.
The farm museum is world class, displaying fossils, artefacts and potsherds. In an adjoining area (with a conveniently located pub), you can see old agricultural implements and tools.
Co-owner Hester Steynberg is a renowned country hostess. She can also show you unique rock paintings and a poignant piece of Anglo-Boer War history. A local guide who specialises in the many varieties of Karoo plants is available for veld walks.
There are various comfortable lodgings, most of them in previous farm outbuildings. Summertime guests are welcome to use the Ganora swimming pool. Ganora is a Dohne Merino sheep stud farm, and guests are welcome to watch activities like shearing, herding or feeding.
In February, Ganora traditionally stages its annual ram auction. If you should be staying over at that time, it's an experience not to be missed.
Facilities: There are 10 en suite rooms, elegantly furnished, of varying sizes. Then there is the Khoisan Cottage, which overlooks the farmstead, sleeps six and is better suited to self-catering. All have free Wi-Fi. Except for Khoisan Cottage, breakfast is included. Dinner is optional and charged separately.
Where: About 8km east of Nieu-Bethesda on the dirt road (the northernmost road).
Contacts: Call or WhatsApp Hester Steynburg at 082 698 0029; ; DM
