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Tatler Asia
6 days ago
- General
- Tatler Asia
The Great Debate: pineapples on pizza and how a fruit sparked a culinary civil war
Above AI-generated image of Clemens Wilmenrod's Toast Hawaii (Photo: Gemini) Of course, like all good origin stories, this Hawaiian pizza is highly contested. Food historians have unearthed evidence suggesting Panopoulos may not have been the sole pioneer. In Germany, TV cook Clemens Wilmenrod popularised the Toast Hawaii, an open-faced sandwich topped with ham, cheese, and pineapple, in 1955, seven years before Panopoulos'. Even the use of the moniker Hawaiian pizza was subjected to debate, where a Hawaiian pizza was discovered in Portland, Oregon, as early as 1957, albeit the pie excluded ham. While Panopoulos's name may be the most recognisable, the existence of these precursors suggests the world was, perhaps unconsciously, preparing itself for an impending sweet and savoury revolution. The science behind the scandal and why it works (or not) Above AI-generated image of a scientist examining a Hawaiian pizza under the microscope (Photo: Gemini) One should peek into the microscope to understand why adding pineapples to pizza generates such visceral reactions. The tropical fruit's distinctive character is derived from a complex combination of flavour compounds: citric acid providing tartness, fruity esters contributing sweetness, vanillin lending vanilla notes, and even eugenol, which lends that inimitable clove-like warmth to taste. When these compounds meet pizza's usual suspects, the flavour contrast is reinforced. Think acid cutting through the richness of melted cheese, sweetness countering the savouriness of tomato sauce and salty ham, and when properly caramelised by the fierce oven heat, introducing the complex Maillard element into every bite. In case you missed it: Beyond the Dough's Eddie Murakami on what makes their viral Tokyo-Neapolitan pizzas unique Above Diego Vitagliano is the chef-owner of 10 Diego Vitagliano in Naples, Italy (Photo: Alessandra Farinelli) Above Antonio Miscellaneo is the Italian chef-owner of pizzerias La Bottega Enoteca and Casa Vostra in Singapore (Photo: Casa Vostra) The real war, however, isn't fought in laboratories but in the arena of cultural identity; tradition versus innovation. For Italian pizza purists, pineapple represents nothing short of a culinary abomination. 'From a classic Italian point of view, pineapple, ham and tomato are a big no, not just on pizza, but also as an isolated combination,' asserts Antonio Miscellaneo, the Italian chef-owner of pizzerias La Bottega Enoteca and Casa Vostra in Singapore. 'In Italy, we would not adulterate the taste of tomato as we prefer flavours to remain pure and simple. On top of that, I don't enjoy fruit on pizza, as I find sweet elements out of place—unless, of course, if it's a dessert pizza.' Diego Vitagliano, the chef-owner of 10 Diego Vitagliano in Naples, Italy, and the world's number one Pizzaiolo chef (conferred by 50 Top Pizza World 2023), echoes this sentiment: 'We think about wild garlic, cheeses from the Lattari Mountains, or San Marzano tomatoes, long before we think about pineapples. I take inspiration from local ingredients to honour local producers and support the regional economy. By only using ingredients from Campania, I could express my identity and sense of belonging.' The fusion frontline of pizza provocateurs Above Mirko Febbrile is the chef-owner of Somma, a progressive Italian fine-dining restaurant in Singapore (Photo: Somma) Conversely, the Hawaiian pizza embodies everything exhilarating about culinary fusion. It represents the experimental spirit that drives gastronomy forward, the willingness to challenge convention, and the recognition that tradition, whilst venerable, need not be immutable. 'Sure, pineapples on pizza is not traditional, but neither was the Margherita in 1889. Taste evolves. Cultures collide. That's how cuisine moves forward,' declares Mirko Febbrile, chef-owner of Somma, a progressive Italian fine-dining restaurant in Singapore. 'I'm not here to gatekeep what people enjoy. I respect what it represents: freedom to taste, to question, to create. Differences are what make food (and life) interesting. So I say bring it on, let them eat pineapple. Just make sure the dough's fermented right.' In case you missed it: An Italian chef's food guide to Sicily, Italy Above Vincenzo Capuano is the chef-owner of Pizzeria Vincenzo Capuano along Mohamed Sultan Road (Photo: Pizzeria Vincenzo Capuano) Singapore's great migration of international pizza superstars ensues as May brings in the anticipated likes of 2022's World Champion of 'Contemporary Pizza' Vincenzo Capuano, who debuts Pizzeria Vincenzo Capuano along Mohamed Sultan Road; and Tsubasa Tamaki's Tokyo-Neapolitan style pizza joint Pizza Studio Tamaki (PST) in Tanjong Pagar. We check in with both pizza stars. While Capuano has gained TikTok fame for his contemporary Neapolitan pizzas, which experiment with longer fermentations, lighter doughs, and creative toppings, he remains anchored in Naples tradition. 'Other than those with tourist-oriented menus, you won't find pineapples on pizza in classic Neapolitan pizzerias,' shares Capuano. 'I wouldn't put pineapple on a Neapolitan pizza, but I'm not against experimentation. Pizza is a universal language, and everyone has the right to express it in their own way. As long as it's done with passion and respect for the product, I'm open to new ideas.' Above Tsubasa Tamaki is the chef-owner of Tokyo-Neapolitan style pizza joint PST in Tanjong Pagar (Photo: Pizza Studio Tamaki) Above Eddie Murakami is the Japanese pizzaiolo behind popular pizzeria Beyond the Dough along Arab Street (Photo: Beyond the Dough) On the flipside, Tamaki champions pineapples on pizza with vim and vigour. The Okinawa-born chef is crafting a pineapple pizza for his June monthly special, utilising Okinawan pineapples known for their 'strong sweetness and balanced acidity, where some have a peach-like aroma, while others are bred to be easy to eat with little to no core'. While the new creation is only available at PST's Okinawan branch, Tamaki suggests pairing pineapple with spicy sausage or seasonal green chilli peppers for those keen. Echoing Tamaki's sentiment is former apprentice Eddie Murakami, a Japanese pizzaolo behind the popular Beyond the Dough along Arab Street. As a fan of sweet and savoury combinations, which make up the backbone of countless beloved dishes in Southeast Asia, Murakami hones in on his time spent in the United States, where he had fond memories of enjoying Hawaiian pizza regularly. 'It is such an appealing contrast,' he confesses. 'Pineapples on pizza tend to divide opinions, but that's why it makes it interesting.' Will there ever be a democratic verdict? Above The pineapple pizza phenomenon unites all in a passionate yet benign discourse () Perhaps the pith of the pineapple pizza phenomenon isn't all that divisive. It is a dish that humbles acclaimed chefs, street food vendors, and foodies to the same level of passionate yet benign discourse, reminding us that taste, ultimately, remains subjective. So, whether you're team pineapple or resolutely opposed, this contentious debate will likely continue stirring up controversy as long as it may. And in a world where we can all agree on so little, my discord wouldn't be about fruit on pizza, but perhaps whether I should ask for extra cheese.
Straits Times
17-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Straits Times
Attention, carb lovers: Two new artisanal pizza brands land in Singapore
SINGAPORE – Call this the Republic of Pizza. How else to explain how a tiny city can boast top pizza brands such as L'antica Pizzeria Da Michele from Italy, Roberta's and Osteria Mozza from the United States and Fortuna from Australia? Add to them home-grown ones such as La Bottega Enoteca, Wild Child Pizzette, Beyond The Dough, Bad Habits Provision, Puffy Bois and Chooby Pizza. Two new brands are muscling in. Vincenzo Capuano from Naples, Italy, opens its first restaurant in Asia at Robertson Quay on May 17; and Pizza Studio Tamaki from Tokyo, Japan, opens its first Singapore outpost in Tanjong Pagar on June 10. Both tick all the artisanal pizza boxes: special blends of flour, long-fermented dough, Italian pizza ovens, and Italian tomatoes and cheeses. Their founders are hell-bent on world domination. On one side is pizzaiolo Vincenzo Capuano, 35, born and raised in Naples, and who followed in his father's and grandfather's footsteps. He already has more than 30 restaurants, and is using Singapore as a base to open in the Philippines, India, Thailand and other parts of Asia. 'My dream is to open in Tokyo because I have a big fan base there,' he says , adding that he goes to the Japanese capital regularly to teach pizza professionals and amateurs . On the other side is Tsubasa Tamaki, 45, from Okinawa. His first trip to Italy was in 2023, when he went there for an award ceremony. His Pizza Studio Tamaki (PST) was No. 88 on that year's list, put out by online pizza guide 50 Top Pizza. He says: ' Pizza is from Italy, it is not Japanese food. But I want to take my pizza from Tokyo to the world. When I was 26, I wanted to be like Colonel Sanders. I had the same idea, but instead of KFC everywhere in the world, it's pizza.' Coming up are PST restaurants in the US, China, the Philippines and Indonesia. He has found partners in these countries with which to open the stores. He also wants to open in Australia, Dubai, Spain, France and the United Kingdom. Existing players are not taking any of this lying down. Roberta's, that famous Brooklyn pizza brand that opened at Marina Bay Sands in 2022, opened a new 103-seat restaurant at Mandai Wildlife East on April 30. Later in May, R Slice, offering pizza for takeaway, will open at Paragon mall. The brand will also open another restaurant this year. Fortuna is bringing in Neapolitan pizzaiolo Diego Vitagliano, 40, for a collaboration from May 28 to 30. The chef, who was last in Singapore in 2024 for a collaboration with La Bottega Enoteca, runs three Diego Vitagliano Pizzeria restaurants in Italy. It was No. 1 on the 50 Top Pizza World ranking in 2023, and No. 2 on the 2024 list. Pizza lovers, time to renew that gym membership. Napoli in bocca What: Vincenzo Capuano Singapore (opens on May 17) Where: 01-12 The Pier@Robertson, 80 Mohamed Sultan Road Open: Noon to 3pm, 6 to 11pm (Mondays to Fridays); 11am to 3pm, 6 to 11pm (Saturdays and Sundays) Info: Call 6016-8152 or go to A pair of gold scissors is at every table at Vincenzo Capuano Singapore. Diners use it to cut into the pizza. PHOTO: VINCENZO CAPUANO On every table at Vincenzo Capuano Singapore will be a pair of gold scissors. Diners use it to cut into the crust of the Neapolitan pizzas on the table. There is more to the self-serve gambit . Chef Vincenzo Capuano, 35, wants diners to see for themselves how special his dough is. He wants them to take in the large pockets of air in the cornicione or the puffy rim of the pizza, feel how light the slice of pizza is and , when they devour it, note how cloud-like the crust is. The pizzaiolo, born and raised in Naples, followed in his father's and grandfather's footsteps. He started helping out in the family's pizzeria at age seven, he says, picking basil leaves and slicing mozzarella. Asked if he was using knives at that age, he says with a shrug: 'Naples.' His dough is a refined version of the family pizza dough, made with Nuvola Super, a special blend of flour he developed with Mulino Caputo, a flour producer from Naples. Nuvola is Italian for cloud, and he has developed a technique for achieving that airy crust. It comes from a pre-ferment, a mix of flour, water and yeast that sits for 24 hours before being used, and an almost soupy dough with 80 per cent hydration. That ferments for 36 hours before it is used . Pizzaiolo Vincenzo Capuano drizzles olive oil over his Provola e Pepe pizza after it comes out of the oven. With him is chef Marco Puglisi, 50, the pizzaiolo for the Singapore restaurant. ST PHOTO: LIM YAOHUI The pizzas go into a gas-powered oven from Moretti Forni that goes up to 480 deg C, and cooks the pizza in about 120 seconds. All of this is to bring to diners 'Napoli in bocca' or Naples in the mouth. He says: 'My pizza is very light. Normal pizza, after 10 minutes, it becomes hard. In Italy, when the pizza comes, people stop talking. But with the pre-ferment, you can take your time. It is perfect for delivery. ' His Neapolitan pizzas are priced between $28 and $32. Options include Provola e Pepe ($28), topped with smoked provolone, pepper, hand-crushed tomatoes, roasted cherry tomatoes, basil and extra virgin olive oil; Don Vincenzo ($30), its crust stuffed with ricotta cheese, and the pie topped with yellow cherry tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, pecorino flakes, pepper, crumbled almonds and basil; and Bellaria ($32), topped with Datterino tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, Parma ham, and pesto. From May 21, they will also be available on GrabFood. Chef Capuano left Italy at the age of 19 and headed to New York City, where he worked as a pizzaiolo at the Flatiron Building for a branch of Eataly, the chain of Italian food halls. 'I learnt how difficult it is to make Neapolitan pizza overseas,' he says. 'It gave me the will to study and improve my recipe.' Unlike his father and grandfather, who made dough by feel, he has set protocols to make sure his pies are consistent. He opened his first pizzeria in Naples in 2017. Calling himself a part of the 'social media generation', he gained a following of pizza makers and fans on TikTok, Instagram, Facebook and YouTube. During Covid-19, when pizzerias closed and people were sequestered at home, he started posting videos, teaching people how to make pizza. He became a star , with new followers beyond the pizza realm . Today, he says, his videos get 60 million views a month. He has 900,000 followers on TikTok, 800,000 on Instagram, 550,000 on Facebook and 500,000 on YouTube. The brand, with 29 restaurants in Italy, was ranked 12th in the 50 Top World Artisan Pizza Chains list for 2024, given by 50 Top Pizza, an online guide. Since 2020, he has been opening restaurants overseas to bring the taste of Naples to people . He now has one in the Netherlands, three in Germany and three in Kosovo. Restaurants in Dubai and Spain will follow. The Singapore outpost, his first in Asia, is his 37th restaurant. The 150-seat restaurant, with tables indoors and out, is a franchised restaurant. The master franchise holder is Aurum, an F&B holdings and investment company which runs restaurants such as Burma Social in Tras Street and Gotti Italiano in Amoy Street. With them, he hopes to expand into the rest of Asia. He says his first visit to Singapore was in late 2023, 'to explore the city and its culinary culture'. 'I believe Singapore is the perfect bridge between East and West , a city open to innovation, but with great respect for tradition, just like my pizza ,' he says. 'I was fascinated. The multiculturalism, the order, the energy.' The chef says he 'studied the market deeply'. 'I saw a growing interest in artisanal , high-quality pizza, but felt that an authentic Neapolitan contemporary pizza experience was still missing,' he adds. He is looking at opening two to three more restaurants here , if people take to his pizza . Given that there are so many artisanal pizza brands in Singapore, why does he think he will succeed here? 'Because it's not just food; it's emotion , tradition and innovation in every bite,' he says. 'And the people of Singapore value quality and true stories.' Tokyo style What: Pizza Studio Tamaki Singapore (opens on June 10) Where: 38 Tanjong Pagar Road Open: 11am to 3pm, 5 to 11pm (Mondays to Fridays), 11am to 3pm, 5pm to midnight (Saturdays and Sundays) Info: @ (Instagram) At Pizza Studio Tamaki Singapore, the Stefano Ferrara oven is fired with oak, beech and cherry wood. ST PHOTO: LIM YAOHUI If fate had twisted in a different direction, people might be watching Tsubasa Tamaki on TV or in the movies. The 45-year-old became a pizzaiolo instead, developing a style of pizza that is all Tokyo – a light crust with a moderately puffy rim, and pies topped with seasonal ingredients, many of which are sourced from Japan. Originally from Okinawa, Tamaki went to Tokyo at age 20. His cousin was an actor there, and he wanted to break into show business too. To support himself, he had a slew of part-time jobs – as a plumber, delivery man, bento box cook and delivery man, tuna salesman – and he worked at Italian restaurants, including a pizzeria. 'I had so many jobs,' he says through a translator. 'The pizza restaurant was where I had the most fun.' At the time, he says, there were just two artisanal pizza brands – Savoy and Seirinkan. Chef Tamaki says: 'It was a niche market. To be a top chef in Tokyo is impossible. So, why not do pizza? It was easier to get into the market.' Both those brands were established by pizzaiolo Susumu Kakinuma. Chef Tamaki has called his mentor 'the prime minister of pizza'. By age 26, he had stopped trying to get into show business and was working at Savoy. It was there that he developed his style. He says: 'At Savoy, there were 15 chefs. Everybody was so competitive, coming up with ideas to see whose was good enough so they could be in front of the oven. 'At the time, one person could eat only one pizza. I wanted them to eat two or three. So, I came up with a dough that is not so heavy.' After five years at Savoy, he went on to open Pizza Strada in 2011 with investors. They parted ways because their visions were not aligned. In 2017, he opened Pizza Studio Tamaki (PST) in Higashiazabu, followed by another in 2019 in Roppongi. He also has a restaurant in Okinawa, which opened in 2024. There is a space in Azabudai, Tokyo, which produces frozen pizza. In January 2025, he opened a restaurant in Bangkok that has become a hit, serving 150 to 200 customers a day. In August, a PST will open in Niseko, Hokkaido. The Singapore restaurant takes the space vacated by Tippling Club, and will have 60 seats indoors and 12 outdoors. His pizza dough is made with a special blend of flour, using Canadian and American wheat, that a Japanese mill makes for him. He says he had tried using Japanese wheat, but with earthquakes and other natural disasters there, the supply cannot be consistent. PST's pizza dough has a brown hue, from the bran left on the wheat grains. ST PHOTO: LIM YAOHUI Those supple balls of dough are a little brown because he keeps some of the bran on the grain for nutrition. There is a 30-hour fermentation time before they are transformed into pizzas. These cook for 70 seconds in a Stefano Ferrara oven, which goes up to 500 deg C. It is wood-fired, powered by oak, cherry and beech. The special touch here is that pizzaiolo Ryosuke Tanahara, 29, who trained under chef Tamaki for three years, throws some Okinawan salt on the floor of the oven before sliding the pie in, to season the crust. The pies are priced from $22 for Marinara, topped with tomato sauce, garlic, oregano and basil, to $42 for Special Bianca, topped with burrata, buffalo mozzarella and mascarpone cheese and truffle oil. Other signatures include Bismarck ($32), topped with mozzarella, mushrooms, pork sausage, pecorino romano cheese and a Japanese egg. The chef's favourite is Arrabbiata ($29), topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, nduja sauce, garlic, parsley and black pepper. 'It's spicy,' he says. 'And there's no arrabbiata pizza beyond PST.' Mr Paulus Tejalaksana, 45, whose J.A.P Dining concepts partnered chef Tamaki to open PST in Singapore, says he had the pizzas for the first time in 2024. 'It's unlike any pizza I'd ever had,' he says. 'I just talked to him until he said okay.' He adds that it is difficult to find good locations in Singapore, so there might be, at most, two more PSTs here. His company also runs Okinawan steak house Yappari Steak. Aside from breaking in the pizza oven, chef Tamaki has been eating his way through Singapore on this first trip here, and says he enjoys chicken rice, Hokkien mee and prawn noodles, which he calls ebi soba. 'Good food, good weather, similar to Okinawa,' he says. Tan Hsueh Yun is senior food correspondent at The Straits Times. She covers all aspects of the food and beverage scene in Singapore. Join ST's Telegram channel and get the latest breaking news delivered to you.
