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Business Times
23-05-2025
- Politics
- Business Times
The delight of being a tourist in Rome during the conclave
I'M originally from Chicago, and when I travel, that fact has historically prompted responses such as 'oh, like Michael Jordan?' or 'like Barack Obama?' But two weeks ago when I was in Rome, I got a new one. 'Chicago! Like our new pope,' a bartender said to me, stunned that for the first time an American – Robert Francis Prevost, now known as Pope Leo XIV – had become the head of the Catholic Church. I was visiting the Eternal City ahead of a voyage on the new La Dolce Vita Orient Express, an ultra-luxury train (more on that soon), but my trip had coincided with the start of the conclave, the process by which the Catholic Church's cardinals elect a new pope. Luckily, this was my fifth trip to Rome, so I wasn't in a rush to see all the sights; instead I could just take in the city during such a historic moment. Rome's Fiumicino Airport was packed with tourists, a mix of people who had longstanding plans to visit the city and those keen to be in Vatican City when a new pope was announced, a major event for the world's 1.4 billion Catholics. There were, of course, a few grumbles about the crowds and the restrictions on tourism. I did overhear a family upset that they couldn't visit the Sistine Chapel on their once-in-a-lifetime trip. I can understand disappointment, but it was a real read-the-room-type moment: sorry, the Sistine Chapel is busy making history! Still, the atmosphere in the city was electric, even if I wasn't one of the masses waiting for a glimpse of white smoke from a chimney atop the Sistine Chapel, the traditional sign that a new pope has received the necessary two-thirds majority (black smoke means a vote was taken, but no single candidate prevailed). At drinks on May 7 at a rooftop bar, I was eager to see if my vantage afforded me a view of the area around St Peter's. I couldn't quite see the smoke, but the glimpse of the basilica itself was exciting to me, knowing that there was likely voting going on at the time. People were throwing around names of cardinals like Pizzaballa or Parolin as if it was the National Basketball Association draft, eagerly anticipating who the next pope would be. A NEWSLETTER FOR YOU Friday, 2 pm Lifestyle Our picks of the latest dining, travel and leisure options to treat yourself. Sign Up Sign Up On the street, I stopped to speak with a priest from France who had come to Rome for a pilgrimage, but was pleased to be in town during such a historic moment. 'People keep asking me about the pope, but I am just a priest,' he said with a wry smile. 'It is, of course, in God's hands.' The most exciting moment for me came when the alert popped up on my phone that a pope had been chosen. I was in a room full of Italians and could hear about 20 different incredulous voices exclaim 'Americano?' as the news travelled around the room. Conclave or no concave, it was business as usual for many Romans. I asked a taxi driver taking me back to the airport how he felt about the crowds descending on the city. 'It's been so busy this year. There was the funeral for Pope Francis. Then, of course, it's the Jubilee year,' he said, referring to a major celebration the Catholic Church puts on every 25 years, and one of the reasons Rome made our list of Where to Go in 2025. 'There is always a reason to come here,' he added. BLOOMBERG
Forbes
18-04-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Inside Francis Ford Coppola's Villas, Luxury Wellness Resorts And More Travel News
. With the rise of wellness vacations, now is the time to start booking a summer getaway. These luxury beach resorts—in Antigua, Mexico and Greece—are designed to indulge the body, mind and soul. There, aren't you starting to breathe easier already? . La Dolce Vita Orient Express, the first Italian-built luxury train, rolled out of Rome's Ostiense Station earlier this month for its inaugural journey—a two-day trip to Tuscany's vineyards. The majority of the itineraries will depart from Rome and include stops in Milan, Florence, and Venice, as well as Sicily, via the world's only passenger rail ferry. The train has 12 carriages, with 31 cabins, including 18 suites. All cabins offer room service and the restaurant car serves lunch, dinner and afternoon tea. The bar car features live music, an aperitivo and antipasti buffet, after-dinner cocktails, and, of course, plenty of Italian wines. . Here's an offer that Godfather fans might not be able to refuse—six lavish villas on Belize owned by director Francis Ford Coppola have been added to Onefinestay's rental portfolio. Guests will have access to a private butler service, a chef and daily housekeeping. And a dedicated concierge is also available 24/7 to handle all activities and excursions, including watersports activities. . Even before the threat of a global trade war threatened to upend summer travel, airlines and hotel brands were already making significant changes to their loyalty programs—and usually not for the better. Both United and Delta altered the requirements for lounge access, while American and Hyatt announced changes to their reciprocal benefits. The good news? Hyatt remains transparent about its award chart. Here's what you need to know about big changes to popular travel loyalty programs. . While the rest of the world may be rethinking visiting the United States this summer, there are still plenty bargains to be found across the globe. A new report from the U.K.'s Post Office—a network of retail shops that has nothing to do with delivering mail—reveals the 15 most affordable places to travel this year. Algarve, Portugal is the most budget-friendly destination for 2025, while Cape Town, South Africa and Tokyo round out the top three.
Telegraph
15-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Telegraph
On board Europe's most luxurious new train, with tickets from £2,600
Is there a station exit in the world that can match the coup de théâtre of leaving Venice Santa Luca, with the Grand Canal and the Pantheon-modelled San Simeone Piccolo laid out before you? ' Venice never loses that magic of appearing as if for the first time,' as Freya Stark observed. We had arrived from Rome on La Dolce Vita Orient Express, Italy's first luxury train, intended to create the glamour and care-free spirit of the 1960s, as portrayed in Fellini's film, with its unforgettable images of Anita Ekberg cavorting in the Trevi Fountain and Marcello Mastroianni driving round the city in a Triumph TR3. Under a full moon we boarded deeply varnished launches to breeze down the Grand Canal to Palazzo Nani Bernardo, one of the few palaces still owned by the family who built it, in this case in the 1550s. A dark candlelit corridor from the landing stage led to glasses of champagne and a courtyard garden with Venice's tallest palm tree. Upstairs, dinner was served at a long table festooned with white flowers, while a harpist played in the window overlooking the canal. The itineraries on La Dolce Vita Orient Express combine the pleasures of scenic routes with quintessentially Italian off-train experiences that would be hard or impossible for a tourist to arrange. The train has been created by Italian luxury brand Arsenale in partnership with Orient Express, and the pampering begins before departure from Rome Ostiense station in the palatial reception area Arsenale has fashioned out of unused spaces. There's a modern twist to the Art Deco feel of the lounge areas and bar, and showers are provided for anyone coming straight from a plane or train via the complimentary transfer service. We all thought the train looked new, but it isn't. Instead, 1970s carriages have been completely rebuilt to the designs of a Milan studio to create 31 cabins, lounge and dining cars, and accommodation for the train's 35 staff. Cabins are masterpieces of compression, but sumo wrestlers wouldn't do well in the space between shower, washbasin and lavatory. Cleverly contrived storage has been created behind one of the opposing mirrored walls, giving an illusion of greater space. Deluxe cabins have a single chair and a sofa which converts into a small double bed but suites, larger by 60 per cent, have a fixed bed, sofa and two chairs. An ambitious programme of eight one- and two-night itineraries covering 14 Italian regions has been devised, most starting and ending in Rome and the most elaborate entailing a transfer of the train across the Straits of Messina on a privately chartered vessel to Sicily for visits to Taormina and Palermo. Some thought two nights was the right duration, others wanted longer, but all agreed that more time at our destinations would have been welcomed, and that will be reflected in tweaks to tours. As invariably happens on hotel trains, guests from half a dozen countries soon bonded in the lounge car, where the bar and piano were placed between an area of sinuous banquettes and seats arranged in twos and fours. The youngest in the surprisingly wide age range were a couple from South Korea, evidently on their honeymoon. Other passengers included an investor who had been successful enough to retire early and become a professional bridge player, and a couple from Delhi in the legal profession. Most of us matched the glad rags of the pianist, saxophonist and singer entertaining us after dinner. The near extinction of proper dining cars on so many national railways has increased the pleasure of eating in one, and we began lunch to views over a glittering bay to the island of Napoleon's first incarceration, Elba. Our creative and high-quality six-course tasting menu with paired wines was created by Heinz Beck, who runs Rome's only three-Michelin-star restaurant, and produced by one of his protégées, Walter Canzio. The train stops for four or five hours every night, and over breakfast it was evident that the world divides into those who can sleep on moving trains, and those who can't – however comfortable the bed. Italy had the wit to retain many of its cross-country railway lines, which often venture into its equivalent of la France profonde, so it was a pleasure to reach Siena by the single-line route from Montepescali through remote countryside. Between woods, an avenue of slender cypresses led to a characteristic Tuscan farmhouse with arcaded veranda on the upper level, surrounded by fields of artichokes, vines and apple orchards. On distant hilltops, a jumble of pale brown houses rising above wooded slopes recalled a turbulent past, when villages were safer on high ground. Another form of endemic rivalry was the subject of our visit by minibus to meet the winning jockey of last year's Palio at his stables and training fields just outside Siena. Remarkably self-effacing for the man who had become the city's hero until the next Palio, Carlo Sanna took us through the Byzantine rules that govern the world's oldest horse race and the highlight of the Siena calendar since 1283. So fierce is the rivalry between the contrada, neighbourhoods traceable back to medieval guilds, that he has to be protected against malfeasance by four bodyguards from the moment he is selected until he enters the bare-back race around the Campo. The three circuits took him just 75 seconds. Before lunch in the kind of unpretentious restaurant that Italy does so well, we had time to admire the jewel in the city's glorious Gothic cathedral, the Carrara marble pulpit sculpted in the 1260s by Giovanni Pisano, with its seven narrative panels of Christ's life and a cast of almost 400 figures. He also sculpted the statues encrusting the lavish façade, which still looks astonishingly crisp and unweathered. Because the train has to dovetail with passenger and freight trains or replenish water tanks, there are occasional longueurs in stations, but that is all part of slow travel. The train never exceeds 75mph, and – unlike on high-speed services – this lack of velocity makes it possible to actually admire the landscapes. As we headed back to Rome, morning mist was rising over the broad plain flanking the Tavere river. A long double avenue of umbrella pines shading a farm track spoke of the forethought of past generations. We skirted the lagoons enclosed by the peninsula of Monte Argentario, where the rackety life of Caravaggio came to an end in 1610, and as we approached Ostiense station, a large section of the Roman walls still stands beside the line. All this luxury and exclusive access comes with a steep price tag, of course: a single-night itinerary costs from £2,662 per person. But strong forward bookings suggest there is healthy demand for this sort of five-star experience, and I was told some celebrities have booked the whole train. Arsenale certainly expects it to continue – a second train will be finished later this year, intended for a Rome to Istanbul journey, among others, and it is building a train for Saudi Arabia with plans for others in Egypt, UAE and Uzbekistan. The sweet life is going global, for those who can afford it. Anthony Lambert was travelling as a guest of La Dolce Vita Orient Express on its Venice and Tuscany tour, which costs from £6,447pp. One-night itineraries start at £2,662pp, departing Rome Ostiense station on multiple dates. Prices includes private transfers from other stations, an airport or a hotel, all tours, meals and drinks.
Forbes
07-04-2025
- Forbes
Italy's New Luxury Train: La Dolce Vita Orient Express Debuts
A cabin on the new La Dolce Vita Orient Express in Italy. La Dolce Vita Orient Express, the first Italian-made luxury train, rolled out of Roma Ostiense Station on April 4, 2025, on an inaugural journey that took passengers on a two-day "Tastes of Tuscan Vineyards" trip to the town of Montalcino. As I discovered while working on my forthcoming book, National Geographic's 100 Train Journeys of a Lifetime: The World's Ultimate Rides (which will be published in October 2025), I've observed the growing demand for over-the-top train journeys that cater to small numbers of luxury travelers on trips through some of the world's most scenic locations, excursions that cater to slow travel, nostalgia, and an appetite for the golden days of rail travel. Lounge Carriage on the La Dolce Vita Orient Express. The itineraries have been designed to create exclusive travel experiences, ranging from north to south in Italy, providing glimpses of the Alps as well as the southern coastline. The majority of the journeys will depart from Rome and can include cities such as Milan, Florence, and Venice, as well as the island of Sicily, via the world's only passenger rail ferry. Some trains will travel within Sicily, leaving from Catania and Palermo. Two-night journeys include Rome, Venice, and Portofino, as well as Rome, Venice, and Siena. Themed journeys include Eternal Stones of Matera, The Truffle Route, and Rome to Sicily. The itineraries have been created in tandem with Orient Express' first hotels, which will also debut in 2025: the Orient Express La Minerva in Rome and the Orient Express Palazzo Donà Giovannelli in Venice. Cabin on board La Dolce Vita Orient Express. La Dolce Vita Orient Express has 12 carriages, with 31 cabins, including 18 suites, 12 deluxe cabins, and the signature La Dolce Vita Suite. The carriages were originally Z1 Italian model carriages, but they have been reimagined and rebuilt. The train is Italy's first private luxury rail fleet, with plans to have six such trains in the future. They all feature double beds, a sofa, armchairs, and a private bathroom. All cabins will offer room service, and the restaurant car will provide lunch, dinner, and afternoon tea. The Bar Car will feature live music, an aperitivo and antipasti buffet, after-dinner cocktails, and Italian wines. Chef Heinz Beck, based at the Rome Cavalieri, A Waldorf Astoria Hotel, holds three Michelin stars and oversees the dining program of La Dolce Vita, inspired by the regions it traverses. A new Orient Express Lounge at Roma Ostiense Station, created by artist-architect Hugo Toro, is where guests gather before the journey. Dining on board La Dolce Vita Orient Express. The train's design inspiration is La Dolce Vita, 'The Sweet Life,' a name bequeathed to an Italian attitude and lifestyle synonymous with the country's décor, art, and architecture of the 1960s. It was made famous by Federico Fellini's film of the same name. Dimorestudio, an architecture and design studio founded by Emiliano Salci and Britt Moran, undertook the design work, drawing inspiration from mid-century Italian design masters such as Giò Ponti, Nanda Vigo, Gae Aulenti, and Osvaldo Borsani. Expect playful geometric patterns and minimalist palettes. A La Dolce Vita Orient Express reservation includes the round-trip transfer to and from the train station, accommodation, the table d'hôte, beverages (such as selected wine and spirits, mineral water, soft drinks, tea, and coffee), onboard entertainment, exclusive experiences, as well as all applicable taxes. There are optional off-board experiences for a fee. Prices do not include insurance and gratuities. Fares start at $3,828 per person per night in a deluxe cabin, based on double occupancy. The Orient Express La Dolce Vita is a partnership between the French hotel group Accor and the Italian luxury hospitality group Arsenale S.P.A., with a railway partnership with Trenitalia—Gruppo Ferrovie dello Stato—and the Fondazione FS Italiane. Note that Orient Express is a different company from the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, which is owned by Belmond, a part of LVMH. Details can be found at La Dolce Vita Orient Express.
The Guardian
05-04-2025
- The Guardian
‘Eat, sleep and party': a taste of La Dolce Vita aboard Italy's Orient Express
A replica of the world-famous Orient Express made its debut journey from Rome on Friday, transporting well-heeled passengers into the heart of Tuscany's wine region. La Dolce Vita Orient Express, the first Italian-made luxury train, is aimed at reviving the glamour of the classic version as well as the romanticised notion of Italy's dolce vita, or 'sweet life', all the while promoting slow tourism. The train, the first of a fleet of six, is made up of 12 refurbished carriages that once chugged along Italian rail tracks in the 1960s and which have been decked out with 18 suites, 12 deluxe cabins, a bar, a lounge and a restaurant serving haute cuisine by the Michelin-starred chef Heinz Beck. A collaboration between Orient Express; Arsenale, an Italian hospitality company; and Italy's state railways, Ferrovie dello Stato, the maiden voyage, which involves an overnight route called 'tastes of Tuscan vineyards', left Rome's Ostiense station at about midday. Rather than having to mingle with longsuffering commuters, deal with any delays or make do with an espresso and a soggy sandwich from the station's bar, passengers began their experience in the opulent Dolce Vita lounge, strategically located on the station platform from where their train departed. The itinerary is one of eight that collectively cover 14 Italian regions, from Veneto and Liguria in the north to Basilicata and Sicily in the south. On Friday afternoon passengers travelled along the coast, passing the seaside towns of Santa Severa and Santa Marinella before gliding through the countryside of Tuscan, where by early evening they could sip locally made Brunello wine as part of the aperitivo. As an option, they could disembark and be taken to the hilltop town of Montalcino before returning to the Dolce Vita for their evening meal and entertainment. The train, which also passes through Florence and Pisa, completes its loop back to Rome on Saturday morning. 'You eat, you sleep, and you party on board,' said Paolo Barletta, who dreamed up the idea for an experience that combines slow tourism with Italy's landscape and its diverse regional cuisine. 'It's kind of like the experience of a cruise ship, but instead of being a boat cruise it's a rail cruise.' The first trip sold out, with 38 passengers partaking. Trips are also fully booked for the rest of April and most of May, with itineraries involving Venice, Portofino, Matera, the Unesco-listed town in Basilicata known for its ancient cave dwellings, and Sicily. On a trip scheduled in November, passengers can explore the Monferrato truffle region in Piedmont, while tasting said truffles and drinking barolo wine. The vast majority of those who have booked so far are Americans, followed by Europeans and visitors from the Middle East. Needless to say, a voyage on the Dolce Vita does not come cheap, with prices starting at €3,500 (£2,982). By comparison, a one-way trip from Rome to Pisa, on a standard Italian fast train will cost about €45 (£38), even cheaper if you book early. For those wanting to replicate the Dolce Vita feeling, the onboard bar sells half-bottles of prosecco for €12 (£10). Barletta said the Dolce Vita experience is not just the preserve of the super-rich. 'A lot of people are booking for the one-time experience,' he said. 'Perhaps they are retired and want to spend some of their retirement savings doing something special, or it is an anniversary or they are celebrating a wedding. It's not only about experiencing the train … people really want to see Italy, and in a slow, relaxed way. The Dolce Vita won't just take them to famous places like Venice, but also areas that are less well-known, for example Abruzzo.'
