Latest news with #LeMousso
Calgary Herald
3 days ago
- Entertainment
- Calgary Herald
Chorney-Booth: Seeing stars! Canada's Michelin options expand with new guide for Quebec
Article content Two weeks ago, I found myself sitting in the back room of a restaurant in Quebec City as chefs Daniel and Raphael Vézina popped a bottle of champagne for a jubilant toast. Just the day before, their restaurant, Laurie Raphael, founded in 1991 by Daniel and named after his two children who took over the business several years ago, was awarded a Michelin star in the famed restaurant guide's inaugural assessment of the province of Quebec. After putting decades of work into their food and hospitality, the father-son team were feeling justifiably validated. Article content Article content Article content Article content Of course, not every restaurateur in the province was as chuffed. Quebec – the third region in Canada to receive a Michelin Guide after the Greater Toronto Area and the city of Vancouver – saw nine of its restaurants receive Michelin stars. Five restaurants in Quebec City, including Laurie Raphael, made the cut alongside only three in Montreal, and a lone spot in Rimouski. Three restaurants in the province also earned the prestigious green star, awarded for sustainability practices. Article content The May 15 announcement created a wave of shock amongst Montreal restaurant insiders. The city is widely regarded as one of the best food destinations in North America, and many were expecting it to match or even outshine the 16 starred restaurants in Toronto or the 10 in Vancouver. Article content Article content 'Today was a tough day,' chef Antonin Mousseau-Rivard admitted the evening of the announcement after dinner service at his excellent but star-free Le Mousso. 'But I'm feeling better now,' he added, surveying a sold-out room of satisfied customers having just feasted on his deeply imaginative, multi-course tasting menu. Article content The general chatter online and on the street seems to be that while the Michelin inspectors – a small army of anonymous critics – appreciated the fine dining-style restaurants in Quebec City, they just didn't 'get' the more casual bon vivant energy of Montreal's best restaurants. Which is not to say Montreal came out of its first Michelin experience empty-handed: most of its best restaurants were recognized on Michelin's 'recommended' list (just one step below a star), and the city also received a good share of Bib Gourmand awards, Michelin's cheap and cheerful designation.
Condé Nast Traveler
23-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Condé Nast Traveler
Le Mousso — Restaurant Review
What's the big picture? There is only one dinner seating per evening from Thursday through Saturday, so there was already an air of anticipation upon walking into the restaurant. Diners were excited and ready for a chance to dine at one of 30 coveted seats within the restaurant inside Montreal's vibey and artsy neighborhood, The Village. Upon arrival, you are greeted with a warm smile by a passing server who is quick to offer a welcome drink, which this evening was made of vermouth from Ontario. The interiors are noticeably minimalist, with streamlined wooden tables and shelving, and a prominent art piece by famed Quebecois painter Jean-Paul Mousseau, the chef's grandfather. What's the crowd like? The evening's diners seemed primed for a show. They were relaxed with a welcome drink and conversing animatedly with one another. Still, it's a splurge to dine here, and everyone appeared to be here with intention and purpose. What should we be drinking? Le Mousso has its own sommelier, who excitedly talks about her pairings, which varied from domestic selections to those from Europe and South America. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. Chef Antonin Mousseau-Rivard comes from a family of artists and creatives, and his culinary background includes helming the restaurant inside Montreal contemporary art museum, and all this background shows up on the plate. Servers pop out of the open kitchen in unison in a choreographed performance, delivering each course that has been beautifully arranged on the plate, and perhaps later enhanced by a sauce poured by the server. Before each course, the sommelier and chef each take turns standing on a makeshift stage to describe their contribution to the course—all in French, with English spoken at individual tables as needed—and the intention behind it. There's a progression of proteins (clams, arctic char, lobster, beef, scallops, lamb) that all have a personal story to their creation. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? The service team had anticipation down pat. When they saw me half-heartedly drinking my cocktail, they took it upon themselves to create a special drink for me. Timing was choreographed to perfection, with little wait time in between meals. Each course came out like a well-rehearsed performance. What's the real-real on why we're coming here? Le Mousso is for the gourmand—someone who appreciates quality—thoughtful dining with a little bit of theatrics and explanation of each dish.
