3 days ago
Maria Grazia Chiuri's Cruise 2026 For Dior Evokes A Ghostly Fantasy
Models in Dior "Les Fantomes du Cinema".
Dior may have been founded by Frenchman Christian Dior in 1946, but when Roman-born Maria Grazia Chiuri took the reins in 2016, she became the first female to lead the house in 70 years, bringing a feminist slant, Italian art, and its culture to the Maison. While she wasn't always lauded for either of these aspects, the money she made during her tenure has tripled profits totaling $9 billion. This is undeniable. Under her reign, the Dioriviera line and the J'Adore Dior slingback sandals launched; both sold like hotcakes. In what may be her swan song for the brand (the brand has yet to release a formal statement), Chiuri looked to her roots in Rome and with a concept that gestured towards the artistic director's new passion project.
The setting in the gardens of the Villa Albania Torloni, where the show took place, had a magical dreamscape mood, something referred to in show notes as "Bella confusion" (which reportedly was almost the name of Fellini's movie 8 ½.) Helping set the mood was the film "Les Fantomes du Cinema," which the designer created with filmmaker Matteo Gorrone. The film short involved models dressed in white with white wigs as exquisite apparitions, donning several different period costumes thanks to help from Tirelli Trappetti's costume shop as well as inspiration from Chiuri's deep dive into the Bal Blanc created by early 20th-century European and New York social doyenne with Mimì Pecci-Blunt. They pranced around the modern-day show prep, interacting amongst the scene unbeknownst to the live cast and crew. The set and film production was enchanting.
Models in Dior "Les Fantomes du Cinema" show.
The actual show, which introduced a combination of Haute Couture and Ready-to-Wear styles, takes cues from specific moments in cinema, theater, fashion, and art, a la Blunt's famous ball, complete with freedom implicit in wearing disguise.
Metaphorically, in a historical sense, the collection aimed to bridge fashion and costume into contemporary styles. Men's vests, often with lapels, are styled with full skirts with tailcoats. Military jacket styles trimmed are trimmed in black. Some dresses recall chasubles, aka the outermost liturgical vestment worn by clery to celebrate the Eucharist.
To break up the proliferation of white clothing, a pop of red and black velvet dresses appeared and paidhomage to the Fontana sisters, who dressed Anita Ekberg for the iconic film La Dolce Vita. The most refined design craft is a golden velvet dress.
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 23: Maria Grazia Chiuri attends "Heroes For Imagine" hosted by Kamel ... More Mennour benefit auction and dinner on September 23, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by)
Show notes describe the overall collection this way. "Like the dancers of a farandole, the show's elements exist together and separately. The creative vision revolves around white, which is expressed in many different materials, from the densest to the lightest. This is how Maria Grazia Chiuri reconstructs the characters, landscapes, stories, and mythology of her city, Rome, in her own unique way. A mindset that favors questioning, daydreaming, poetic intuition, and magical realism to define a new network of stellar affinities."
Chiuri just reopened the newly restored Teatro della Cometa in Rome, which she purchased in 2022. From the glowing press she received in Italy's "Il Sole 24 Ore," it sounds like Chiuri will finally have the creative freedom to work on projects to her liking and not those trying to reach a corporate sales level quota. Ostensibly, she will pass her days in her hometown unless she takes on another design role. No matter the case, her essence will always inhabit another landmark like the comedy theatre or Villa Torloni, but this one will be in Paris 30 Avenue Montaigne. Here, her famtone will join those such as John Galliano, Gianfranco Ferre, Yves Saint Laurent, and of course, Mr. Dior himself.
