5 days ago
This Island Getaway Is So Idyllic, Some Would Prefer To Keep It Secret
Welcome to the roads less traveled, the stoplight-free streets where residents routinely wave to friends, neighbors and visitors alike. Its rolling pastoral landscape looks like something out of a painting and while the vibe is super chill, there's also some world-class culinary options on Lopez. Here's what you shouldn't miss if you go to the 'friendly isle" in the San Juans off the coast of Washington state.
Lopez is a beautiful destination in the San Juan Islands off the coast of Washington state. Visitors ... More love to hike and bike in this scenic spot, which also is home to some world-class culinary options.
Visitors making the trek to this island are typically looking to unplug. Even the official San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau website sets the chill tone: 'You won't find rental cars or public transportation, stoplights, mopeds, a movie theater or a shopping mall.'
It goes on to sing the praises of the opportunities to explore and experience natural beauty on beaches and rocky trails. For the last four years, my husband and I have been volunteering as camp hosts at Spencer Spit State Park, a sweet gig that allows us to park our 23-foot motorhome in the campground for a month while doing some low-lift chores.
In the very beginning, when we couldn't believe our good fortune at landing in such a gorgeous spot, we wrote that we'd found our version of paradise. A couple of locals showed up at our campsite telling us to pipe down, this treasure was too good to share. Completely get that sentiment, but what about the businesses depending on visitors? Yeah, well.
Lopez Island in Washington state is home to a lively farm stand culture.
Yes, you should hit the popular Saturday Farmers Market during the summer season. Or, you can use the farm stand map as a way to explore the island, stopping to get honey and flowers on the south end, pick up exquisite goat cheese at Sunnyfield Farms before grabbing a loaf at Barn Owl Bakery.
If you're prepping a DIY feast, there's also excellent seasonal produce and locally raised lamb, pork and beef at Horse Drawn Farm. Roadside booths offering eggs – and yarn at one – might make you wish you'd bought that 'I brake for farm stands' bumper sticker.
Fill out the picnic fixings or cookout list at Village Market, a welcoming retailer that doubles as a community hub. Yes, those banners hanging in the produce department feature portraits of the class of 2025. And, you bet, you can buy a set of sheets there if an extra guest shows up on the porch of your vacation digs.
Blossom Grocery, just down the block, also manages to stock an impressive lineup of natural food, bulk items, Northwest-centric craft beer – my husband is a big fan of Astoria, Ore., based Buoy – as well as various organic pantry staples under the Cadia label. (Love that company's mission to support independently owned grocers.)
On your way to hike Iceberg Point or take a cold plunge into Watmough Bay, stop at the Southend Market & Cafe for a cup of coffee and a pastry. (Barn Owl regularly delivers there.)
Roadside stands — and coolers — offering local eggs are prevalent on Lopez in the San Juan Islands ... More off the coast of Washington state.
Derek Eisel sells produce from Watmough Bay Farm at the Saturday Market in the Village on Lopez ... More Island. He's also a musician and author.
In the Village, there are a handful of dining options including several popular food trucks serving pizza, tacos and, new this summer season, Texas-style barbecue. The fragrant smoke from the various meats cooking low-and-slow is a signal that David's BBQ is legit. Try the brisket with the tomato-based sauce that's got a touch of sweet and heat.
Fine Mess Bakery offers an assortment of beautiful pastries and, on weekends, excellent bread, while Isabel's Espresso has coffee lovers covered. Lopez Island Creamery is only open weekends, but the cute scoop shop is well worth a visit. There's also a taproom, a juice bar and apothecary.
My favorite spot, hands down, is the Setsunai Noodle Bar, where chef Josh Ratza has earned a well-deserved reputation for his house-made ramen and spectacular soba. This week, Ratza announced on Instagram that he's relocating to a larger place, saying so long to the tiny space he and his crew have made work the last eight years. Soon, Setsunai Noodle Bar at The Galley will launch across from scenic Fisherman's Bay. Hooray!
The new spot is just down the road from The Islander Resort and Marina, home of the bar and grill with one of the prettiest views on Lopez from its bayside deck.
Chef Josh Ratza at Setsunai on Lopez Island has built a loyal fan base with his rich, complex ramen ... More and house-made noodles. The Noodle Bar is moving mid-June 2025 to a larger space.
Some make Lopez a day trip destination, as the handful of accommodations tend to get booked out during the busy summer season. If you're looking to camp, in addition to Spencer Spit, there's Odlin county park, which also has a boat launch and fantastic sunsets.
Reservations on the Washington state ferries is essential for the trip out to the San Juan Islands, but on the way back to the mainland, it's a first-come, first-served lineup kind of situation. Your best bet is to download the department of transportation app, which offers real-time tracking options.
