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Vancouver Sun
10 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Vancouver Sun
Cook This: 3 ice cream recipes from Made By Marcus, Made By You, including mac and cheese
Our cookbook of the week is Made By Marcus, Made By You by Marcus Purtzki, the Calgary-based owner and operator of Made By Marcus, an ice cream shop with soon-to-be seven locations in Alberta. Jump to the recipes: mac and cheese , black cherry and anise , and Taber corn and blackberry . Marcus Purtzki's love of cookbooks inspired him to write his own. Growing up in Nanaimo, B.C., Thomas Keller's 1999 classic, The French Laundry Cookbook , started his collection. According to Purtzki, it's as relevant today as it was 26 years ago. 'It's still iconic, and I think that probably made cookbooks what they are, because you see the level of cookbooks. They're so well done now. But that was my original inspiration, my love for cookbooks. Love to tell a story of how you got there.' Discover the best of B.C.'s recipes, restaurants and wine. By signing up you consent to receive the above newsletter from Postmedia Network Inc. A welcome email is on its way. If you don't see it, please check your junk folder. The next issue of West Coast Table will soon be in your inbox. Please try again Interested in more newsletters? Browse here. Purtzki owns and operates Made By Marcus , a small-batch ice cream shop with four locations in Calgary and soon-to-be three in Edmonton. He tells his origin story in his self-published cookbook, Made By Marcus, Made By You , printed by FriesenPress in Altona, Man. As a food scientist with a master's degree in nutrition from the University of British Columbia, sharing his ice cream expertise felt natural. 'The foundation of research is sharing your knowledge in journals and articles, so I thought that was a fun thing to do.' Initially intending to take a break after eight years of post-secondary education before getting a job in the field, Purtzki followed his passion for cooking. He attended a culinary program in Montpelier, Vt., and moved to New York City, where he worked as a cook at the now-closed one-Michelin-starred restaurant Rouge Tomate. He had joined the staff as a nutritionist. Since he had experience and the restaurant was buzzing, having recently earned a Michelin star , he ended up in the kitchen. 'I fell in love with the kitchen lifestyle a little bit. It was fun. It was different,' says Purtzki. 'There are long days, but you're in a Michelin-starred restaurant, so you actually feel you're getting some value.' Back in Canada, Purtzki continued his culinary career at high-end restaurants in Vancouver, such as the now-shuttered West Restaurant, where he had dreamed of working since his university days. He had long been a fan of pastries, and it was there that he started making macarons just for fun. In 2012, Purtzki launched a namesake macaron company, the original Made By Marcus. 'It started as a little passion project on the side that I would do after work. And eventually, I (realized), 'I like running my own business and doing my own thing,'' he says. Over the next few years, 'there was a lot of soul-searching and following things that you really like to do.' He relocated the business to Calgary, where his wife, Mel, was offered a pediatric residency. With a surplus of unused Alberta egg yolks left over after making macarons, he started making ice cream in a small basement kitchen. His 'scientific brain' was hooked, and in 2016, Purtzki opened the flagship Made By Marcus ice cream shop across the street. Nearly a decade later, Purtzki channelled his skill and talent into Made By Marcus, Made By You. Before launching into 50 ice cream recipes and more than 60 inclusions, such as purées, ripples and caramels, he features a version of the primer he gives new scoopers and offers in workshops: how to taste and evaluate ice cream and the science behind it. A solid understanding of the science underpins it, but seasonality is a key element. From Calgary's Village Ice Cream to Vancouver's Earnest Ice Cream , Purtzki points out that seasonal flavours are central to today's scoop shop culture. Made By Marcus's seasonal approach to ice cream extends to the cookbook. Using local products has been one of Purtzki's priorities from the beginning, whether in the wintry Douglas fir ('a Christmas tree in a scoop') and the summery Taber corn and blackberry , or fan favourites, such as malted chocolate with housemade honeycomb (a nod to the Crunchie chocolate bars Purtzki loved as a kid). They source their dairy, 70 per cent of their ice creams, from Alberta farms. Purtzki embraced the opportunity to explain how menu items came to be in the book. At Made By Marcus, they come up with new flavours every month. Purtzki draws on his childhood memories, background in fine-dining restaurants, and Swedish and German heritage to develop imaginative combinations, such as goat cheese and lingonberry and toasted hay and Saskatoon berry. Chapters are devoted to the four seasons plus a fifth 'Weird' season filled with unusual flavours, such as mac and cheese ice cream and Caesar sorbet. 'Weird is certainly in the eye of the beholder, but I'd like to think that we do weird pretty well here at Made By Marcus,' Purtzki writes. These recipes aren't tied to a specific time of year, but many would be at home on the Calgary Stampede midway , where visitors flock for out-of-the-ordinary food experiences. Six Seasons by Joshua McFadden was the inspiration for including a fifth 'Weird' season. 'It's one of the best books I have,' says Purtzki. After studying food and nutrition science and working in Michelin-starred kitchens, Purtzki found his calling. He enjoys the mentorship aspect of working with people who are just beginning their professional lives, the creativity of coming up with new ice cream flavours and the fun of the marketing side of the business. 'People hate Mondays. I love Mondays. It's the best day,' says Purtzki. 'I'm going to sound like my dad, but I just love work. I love going to work every day. I love having a purpose to work, and being in ice cream gave me that purpose.' Yield: 3 pints Base: 360 g (1 1/2 cups) whole milk 360 g (1 1/2 cups) cream 38 g (1/3 cup) milk powder 133 g (2/3 cup) cane sugar 5 egg yolks Base additions: 48 g (1/3 cup) powdered cheddar cheese (i.e. Kraft Dinner powder) Whisk together the powdered cheddar cheese with dry ingredients before following base steps below. Gather the base ingredients and see the method below to cook your base . Follow the directions below to churn your ice cream . Transfer ice cream to a freeze-safe container. Place in the freezer and allow it to harden for at least 4 hours before enjoying. Note: If you want to get extra crazy, then sure, go ahead and add in some cooked macaroni as the inclusion for this ice cream. Yield: 3 pints Base: 360 g (1 1/2 cups) whole milk 360 g (1 1/2 cups) heavy (whipping) cream 38 g (1/3 cup) milk powder 150 g (3/4 cup) cane sugar 5 egg yolks 1 g (1 pinch) salt Base additions: 6 g (1 tbsp) fennel seeds Inclusions: 280 g (1 cup) black cherry jam Combine the milk in a medium pot over medium heat, whisking constantly. Warm the milk until steam begins to rise, then remove from heat and add the fennel seeds. Allow it to infuse for 30 minutes. Strain the mixture to remove and discard the fennel seeds. Reserve the fennel-infused milk for the next step. Gather the base ingredients and see the method below to cook your base . Follow the directions below to churn your ice cream . Transfer ice cream to a freeze-safe container and layer the ice cream with alternating layers of black cherry jam throughout. Place in the freezer and allow it to harden for at least 4 hours before enjoying. Yield: 3 pints Base: 360 g (1 1/2 cups) whole milk 360 g (1 1/2 cups) heavy (whipping) cream 57 g (1/2 cup) milk powder 133 g (2/3 cup) cane sugar 5 egg yolks 1 g (1 pinch) salt Base additions: 2 corn cobs, shucked with kernels and cobs separated or 200 g of frozen corn kernels Inclusions: 280 g (1 cup) blackberry jam Combine milk in a medium pot over medium heat, whisking constantly. Warm the milk until steam begins to rise, then remove from heat and add corn cobs. Allow it to infuse for 1 hour. (Skip this step if using frozen corn kernels.) Strain the milk to remove and discard the corn cobs. Return the corn milk to a medium pot and heat over medium heat. Add corn kernels and cook for 3 minutes, or until the corn is tender. If using frozen corn kernels, use whole milk to cook corn kernels. Using a high-speed blender, purée the corn mixture until smooth. Strain and reserve the corn-infused milk for the next step. Gather the base ingredients and see the method below to cook your base . Follow the directions below to churn your ice cream . Transfer ice cream to a freeze-safe container and layer the ice cream with alternating layers of blackberry jam throughout. Place in the freezer and allow it to harden for at least 4 hours before enjoying. Note: Steeping the corn can be a bit time consuming, so frozen corn kernels are always a good alternative — just don't use canned! Combine your liquid ingredients in a medium pot on low heat. Warm the mixture to lukewarm, whisking continuously. Meanwhile, combine the dry ingredients in a small mixing bowl. When the mixture is lukewarm, gradually add spoonfuls of the dry ingredient mixture to the pot, whisking as you go. Once fully incorporated, add egg yolks (and salt if you're making the black cherry and anise or Taber corn and blackberry) and continue to whisk on medium heat. Cook the base while continuously whisking until the base thickens slightly and is near-simmering or registers at 80C. Make sure to whisk uniformly around the pot to prevent scalding on the bottom. Prepare an ice bath with two bowls, placing ice in the bottom bowl and another bowl on top. Once the base reaches the desired temperature, remove it from the heat and strain the ice cream base into the top bowl of the ice bath. Place in the fridge to cool. Allow the base to reach 4C before churning, and age overnight if time allows. (Follow this step if your ice cream machine has a built-in compressor.) Turn on the machine and allow it to pre-chill for at least 10 minutes before adding the ice cream base. You should see some light frost forming in the chamber. (Follow this step if you're using a freezer-bowl machine.) Follow the directions for your machine to ensure the freezer bowl is completely frozen before use. This usually takes 12+ hours, so plan accordingly! Pour the ice cream base into the pre-chilled machine and begin churning. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for freezing time, which can range from 20-30 minutes. Once the ice cream reaches a soft serve consistency, turn off the machine and remove the dasher or blade. Recipes and images reprinted with permission from Made By Marcus, Made By You: An Ice Cream Cookbook by Marcus Purtzki. Our website is the place for the latest breaking news, exclusive scoops, longreads and provocative commentary. Please bookmark and sign up for our cookbook and recipe newsletter, Cook This, here .
National Post
10 hours ago
- Entertainment
- National Post
Cook This: 3 ice cream recipes from Made By Marcus, Made By You, including mac and cheese
Article content He relocated the business to Calgary, where his wife, Mel, was offered a pediatric residency. With a surplus of unused Alberta egg yolks left over after making macarons, he started making ice cream in a small basement kitchen. His 'scientific brain' was hooked, and in 2016, Purtzki opened the flagship Made By Marcus ice cream shop across the street. Article content Nearly a decade later, Purtzki channelled his skill and talent into Made By Marcus, Made By You. Before launching into 50 ice cream recipes and more than 60 inclusions, such as purées, ripples and caramels, he features a version of the primer he gives new scoopers and offers in workshops: how to taste and evaluate ice cream and the science behind it. Article content A solid understanding of the science underpins it, but seasonality is a key element. From Calgary's Village Ice Cream to Vancouver's Earnest Ice Cream, Purtzki points out that seasonal flavours are central to today's scoop shop culture. Article content Made By Marcus's seasonal approach to ice cream extends to the cookbook. Using local products has been one of Purtzki's priorities from the beginning, whether in the wintry Douglas fir ('a Christmas tree in a scoop') and the summery Taber corn and blackberry, or fan favourites, such as malted chocolate with housemade honeycomb (a nod to the Crunchie chocolate bars Purtzki loved as a kid). They source their dairy, 70 per cent of their ice creams, from Alberta farms. Article content Purtzki embraced the opportunity to explain how menu items came to be in the book. At Made By Marcus, they come up with new flavours every month. Purtzki draws on his childhood memories, background in fine-dining restaurants, and Swedish and German heritage to develop imaginative combinations, such as goat cheese and lingonberry and toasted hay and Saskatoon berry. Article content Chapters are devoted to the four seasons plus a fifth 'Weird' season filled with unusual flavours, such as mac and cheese ice cream and Caesar sorbet. 'Weird is certainly in the eye of the beholder, but I'd like to think that we do weird pretty well here at Made By Marcus,' Purtzki writes. These recipes aren't tied to a specific time of year, but many would be at home on the Calgary Stampede midway, where visitors flock for out-of-the-ordinary food experiences. Article content Six Seasons by Joshua McFadden was the inspiration for including a fifth 'Weird' season. 'It's one of the best books I have,' says Purtzki. Article content Article content After studying food and nutrition science and working in Michelin-starred kitchens, Purtzki found his calling. He enjoys the mentorship aspect of working with people who are just beginning their professional lives, the creativity of coming up with new ice cream flavours and the fun of the marketing side of the business. Article content 'People hate Mondays. I love Mondays. It's the best day,' says Purtzki. 'I'm going to sound like my dad, but I just love work. I love going to work every day. I love having a purpose to work, and being in ice cream gave me that purpose.' Article content Article content Yield: 3 pints Article content Base: 360 g (1 1/2 cups) whole milk 360 g (1 1/2 cups) cream 38 g (1/3 cup) milk powder 133 g (2/3 cup) cane sugar 5 egg yolks Article content Base additions: 48 g (1/3 cup) powdered cheddar cheese (i.e. Kraft Dinner powder) Article content Prep the base Article content Whisk together the powdered cheddar cheese with dry ingredients before following base steps below.
