08-05-2025
A taste of Assam on a plate
Aloo pitika — mashed potatoes laced with mustard oil and green chillies — is as comforting as it gets. No Assamese meal feels quite complete without it. So naturally, when I went to Assam House on Bordoloi Marg earlier this week, it was the first thing I looked for. Sure enough, there it was, sitting quietly in a corner of the thali, surrounded by an inviting spread.
I have always had a soft spot for Assamese food, especially the meaty curries — goat, chicken, duck, pigeon, pork, you name it. The tangy tenga fish curry is one of my favourites. And then there is khar — the slightly alkaline, rather intriguing dish made with vegetables, often served at the start of a meal. I have tasted many of these at Maihang, a local chain in Assam named after the ceremonial meal.
Since I dropped in for an early lunch, the place was quiet and not everything was ready — the day's dessert, kheer, for instance, was still bubbling away in the kitchen. I ordered a special vegetarian thali with a side of mutton curry and duck fry; the bill came to ₹930. The thali itself was a colourful plate comprising a mound of rice surrounded by small bowls of dishes. If you are hungry, they do offer refills, at no extra cost.
My plate included two dals — yellow and black — a mixed vegetable curry with gourd and tomato, stir-fried lai saag, a dry veggie fry, papaya khar, and of course, aloo pitika. The potatoes had that sharp punch thanks to the mustard oil, while the khar brought its signature bitter-alkaline twist. But the surprise hit was the fried vegetable bowl — crisp slices of okra and pointed gourd with minimal spice, done just right. The yellow dal was smooth and comforting. The black dal, though, did not do much for me. The mutton curry had a fiery kick, but still managed to be flavourful.
What I like most about Assamese food is its clean, bold flavours. It is rarely overdone. I have had great meals at Jakoi, Assam Bhavan's restaurant in Delhi (though it is currently under renovation). Their duck was one for the books. At Maihang, it was a bit tough — I took it home, gave it a whistle in the pressure cooker, and it softened just enough while keeping a bit of chew. Duck and pigeon dishes from Assam really stand out — I still remember a pigeon curry my friend's mother made once; the meat was tender, the gravy packed with flavour.
In Delhi, a few restaurants do serve Assamese food. Many Northeast joints in Humayunpur have a dish or two. Oh! Assam in the neighbourhood has some interesting offerings too — their pork and greens stir-fry is worth a try.
All in all, my lunch at Maihang hit the spot though I did miss a sweet ending. A thali without dessert feels a bit incomplete, like idli without podi. As I was leaving, the kheer was still simmering on the stove. Maybe next time.
At Maihang, Assam House, Bordoloi Marg; 7.30am to 10.30am; 12.30pm to 4pm, 7.30pm to 10.30pm; Phone 9315250043
