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French department store Printemps brings surprisingly thrilling food to Wall Street
French department store Printemps brings surprisingly thrilling food to Wall Street

New York Post

time22-05-2025

  • Business
  • New York Post

French department store Printemps brings surprisingly thrilling food to Wall Street

The loudest cheers on Wall Street aren't for the New York Stock Exchange's closing bell, but for the opening of the five most dynamic restaurants FiDi has ever seen under a single roof. They're at Printemps, the new Paris-based fashion store that's the glam showpiece of One Wall Street — the landmarked former Irving Trust office building recently converted to luxury condos. The neighborhood, once starved for quality cuisine, is now a lively residential district as well as a business hub. 7 Printemps opened in the Financial District in March, bringing French fashions —and five restaurants — to the neighborhood. Brian Zak/NY Post It's enjoying a dining renaissance with the revived Delmonico's on Beaver Street, SAGA and Crown Shy at 70 Pine Street and lively indoor-outdoor cafes on Stone Street. But it never had anything like Printemps' nexus of high style and kitchen magic, which are surprising and delighting food-lovers, scene-makers and night owls. Last Friday at 10 p.m. — two hours after the Printemps store closed — its flagship restaurant, Maison Passerelle, buzzed like a Wall Street Balthazar with couples dressed to kill. 7 The crisp-skinned ocean trout at Maison Passerelle is almost too pretty to eat. Tamara Beckwith The next afternoon, Salon Vert — a sexy, green-accented, second-floor raw bar/cafe — was so full, I had to wait for a seat at the bar. Was this really happening at Broadway and Wall Street, a corner where the favorite dish historically was a street-cart hot dog? Olivia Gracey, 31, a West Village publicist who's not involved with Printemps, was as surprised as me by Printemps culinary pleasures. 7 Gregory Gourdet, a finalist on seasons 12 and 17 of Bravo's 'Top Chef,' is overseeing all five restaurants at Printemps. Tamara Beckwith 'We stumbled into Salon Vert as a reprieve from prowling the sunglasses and bags. I'm now obsessed,' she told me. 'I'd drink the sweet potato soup with a straw if they'd let me.' Wealth advisor/consultant Marina Warner, 41, favors Cafe Jalu, a casual cafe next to Maison Passerelle. 'The people-watching is wild and hilarious. I didn't know so many fancy people were in FiDi with HUGE dogs,' she said, adding, 'The pain au chocolat is pretty insane when I need to eat my feelings in a good way.' 7 The beautiful Maison Passerelle has a vaguely tropical vibe. Tamara Beckwith All five eateries are run by Haitian-born chef Gregory Gourdet of Kent Hospitality Group — named for its beloved founder, the late chef James Kent. Rather than offer a predictable department-store lineup of familiar standards, Gourdet, a finalist on Bravo's 'Top Chef,' bravely intertwines French cuisine with flavors of the French diaspora — the former colonies from Canada to the West Indies to Vietnam. There's no political statement behind it; the dishes are just meant to taste wonderful, which almost all did. Maison Passerelle's 85 seats are the place to catch Gourdet's best work. The airy space designed by Laura Gonzalez (who did all the restaurants) has a vaguely tropical mood, with a marble mosaic floor, walnut walls, red jasper-topped tables, and plush, green-and-white fabric banquettes. 7 The standout dish is duck breast and confit glazed in cane syrup and bathed in tamarind jus. Tamara Beckwith Except for a misbegotten amuse bouche of mushroom broth with nuclear-hot Thai chilis that made three of us gag, just about everything was delicious. A starter of warm, richly herbed plantain bread and butter ($14) was sinfully filling. The best dish was heritage duck breast and confit glazed in cane syrup and bathed in tamarind jus — a powerful, West African-inspired interplay of game-y, sweet and sweet-and-sour flavors. I almost didn't mind the $72 price, as it could be enough to serve two. Spaghetti with Maine lobster ($60) arrived perfectly al dente. The tomato sauce was rich and plentiful, but the lobster was too chewy. I'd have gladly had half as much of the general shellfish portion if it were twice as tender. 7 Salon Vert, a raw bar and cafe, has been quite popular. Tamara Beckwith At Salon Verte, I enjoyed herbed, round focaccia with a crackling crust ($14) and shrimp Creole ($32) sparked with habanero, black pepper and horseradish. Then there's the Red Room Bar, an appendage of the landmarked Red Room on the building's Wall Street side. The magnificent space was once open only to BNY Mellon executives until the bank moved out in 2015. It now serves as the store's shoe department with Italian-made Manolo Blahniks going for $1,375. Sam Freeman, 33, an executive of Global Hotel Partnerships at American Express Travel & Lifestyle, likes the Red Bar's 'vibrant energy and unique ambiance, perfect for a meet-up or a drink after work and dinner.' 7 The light, fresh fare includes peekytoe crab remoulade. Tamara Beckwith He favors the Kafe Negroni ($21) spiked with Haitian coffee. For me, a crispy-crackling chicken sandwich ($24) on a potato bun heaped with pickled cabbage slaw and remoulade was all I needed to watch fashionistas smoothly descend a circular staircase to the ground floor with their pooches, huge and tiny, close at hand. The stock market's wobbly, but I'm bullish on Wall Street's new eats.

Confidant Brings Fine Dining to Industry City
Confidant Brings Fine Dining to Industry City

New York Times

time18-03-2025

  • Business
  • New York Times

Confidant Brings Fine Dining to Industry City

Opening This much-anticipated fine-dining addition, a first for Industry City, is about to open in a setting that combines polished cement, wooden accents, napery and an open kitchen. The chefs Brendan Kelley and Daniel Grossman, who worked at Roberta's, have brought on a few hospitality veterans as partners. A seasonal menu emphasizes dry-aged fish and meats, some from Industry City merchants. Trout mousse, tuna prosciutto and tuna belly crudo can also precede prawn potpie, steamed monkfish with brown butter crumbles, and a whole crown of duck with duck confit salad. The pastry chef Mariah Neston offers a rhubarb upside-down cake and, move over charlotte russe, an updated biscuit tortoni. (Opens Wednesday) Industry City, Building No. 5, 67 35th Street (Third Avenue), Brooklyn, 929-252-0205, This 257-seat Korean barbecue palace on two floors is most of the iceberg. The space will soon accommodate the rest: DubuHaus for tofu and Musaek, serving cocktails with a raw bar. The specialties are steaks, domestic and imported, including Wagyu, to order à la carte ($55 to $95) or in set arrangements. All come with banchan and lettuce ssam. There are also seafood naeng-chae, spicy cold noodles, kettlepot rice, kimchi stew and, for dessert, green tea soft serve. 7 East 31st Street, 347-504-5401, They nailed the season for the opening of the New York branch of the Parisian megastore, Printemps. All but the flagship restaurant, Maison Passerelle, opening in April, will be ready to serve and pour by the end of the week. Alongside boutiques, shoppers will find a Champagne bar; Café Jalu, open all day for coffee and pastries; Salon Vert, with raw bar items; and the Red Room Bar, for cocktails, adjacent to Maison Passerelle. The food is the province of Gregory Gourdet, the culinary director, whose approach to French fare includes tastes of Haiti, West Africa, Vietnam and French Canada. Art Nouveau and Art Deco designs are by Laura Gonzalez. (Friday) 1 Wall Street (Exchange Place), An uncommon Nikkei vibe comes to Carnegie Hill from Jorge Dionicio, a native of Peru who worked at Uchi in Austin, Texas, and whose New York experience has been in Japanese restaurants like Morimoto and Sushi Noz. He makes liberal use of ají amarillo in gyoza, maki and tiradito, and is serving Peruvian lomo saltado, a beef stir-fry; and parihuela, a kind of Peruvian bouillabaisse. The dining room deploys Peruvian textiles for vibrant accents, and there's an omakase counter on the upper level. 1312 Madison Avenue (93rd Street), 646-833-7033, A tropical jungle fantasy that has parked its leopard prints, lush greenery and disco balls in pop-up locations in New York and elsewhere, now has a permanent home on Pier 17 in the seaport district. It trumpets its taste of Tulum, the late-Mayan archaeological site on the coast of the Yucatán that now has the vibe of St. Barts. Tulum is where the parent group, Grupo Gitano, run by James Gardner, got its start. An installation in Dubai preceded New York. The menu here is long on Mexican crowd-pleasers. It has taken over parts of two levels of the pier; a private club will open upstairs. Pier 17, South Street and Fulton Street, Want all of The Times? Subscribe.

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