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Irish Times
6 days ago
- Entertainment
- Irish Times
Maybe what the world needs right now is another Anthony Bourdain
Like Anthony Bourdain, I am a little bit early. This August will mark 25 years of his memoir, Kitchen Confidential. But Bourdain was always two steps ahead. He still exists in most people's imaginations as 'the first celebrity chef' (Marco Pierre White or indeed the 19th century's Marie-Antoine Carême might have something to say on that); he pioneered, though didn't invent, the travelogue-cum-food television genre; he showed up for every appointment 20 minutes ahead of time, the New Yorker magazine's Helen Rosner once revealed. So it strikes me as fitting to mark Kitchen Confidential's anniversary two months in advance (though this is where mine and Bourdain's similarities begin and end). This is because it is in keeping with that enterprising spirit (I continue to flatter myself) and because the content of Bourdain's universe – the subject of his memoirs, his novels, his TV shows – is universal, always interesting and perhaps the only thing consistently relevant to every living person. READ MORE There is no bad time to write in tribute to Bourdain because there is no wrong time to think about food. Take, for example, his 2014 trip to Iran for the television show Parts Unknown. The country was escalating its incursion in Iraq and the social temperature was in flux (some controversially argued the regime was liberalising). Something was definitely changing (weeks after appearing on the show, two Iranian journalists were put in prison). But as Bourdain made clear, no matter the mutable weather of Iran – the friendliness of its people contrasted with the vitriol of its anti-American rhetoric – food remained the ancient and unchanging universal. [ Anthony Bourdain: The sceptical outsider baffled by fame ] And that was the soul of Bourdain: whether it was the tahdig he shared with the Iranian journalists, soon to be imprisoned; the cow's foot he ate in a Haitian enclave in Miami as Haiti itself was about to experience a devastating hurricane; or the maqluba he ate in Palestine in 2013. This was a marrying of the timely (the politics of the West Bank at the beginning of the 2010s) and the universal (the falafel made by everyone in the greater region); the ephemeral (the spectre of a liberalising Iran) and the material (the tahdig). Forget the pre-Socratics, Bourdain more than anyone understood this organising feature of the universe. I cannot help but think that if food was of central analytical importance, then – I was perhaps just too young to quantify seriously the extent of global upheaval in 2013 and 2014 – it must be all the more central now. But where is the Bourdain-redux eating borscht (with apologies for the regional stereotyping) with Ukrainians in Kyiv? Sharing a hamburger with Donald Trump just as he shared bun cha in Vietnam with Barack Obama? Proving the truth behind the mawkish and sentimental dreck that there is a culinary universal language? It needn't be so lofty, of course. In the long swooping arc of history the little things matter too. Yes, there is the goat stew that ties the 21st century Iranian with their ancient Persian forebears, linking ancestors through every political permutation of the country. Sure we can we think about the potato and its central importance to the trajectory of the Irish people – from the devastating Famine in the mid-1800s to source of a hackneyed and annoying stereotype in 2025. And what about the long shadow cast by Italy's historical Risorgimento movement on the culinary landscape of the Italian-American in New York today? Fine. But Bourdain was as concerned with the prosaic as he was with all of that stuff. It's not always about the shifting geopolitical sands, but the quotidian life of a restaurant; one not rendered any more or less interesting because of its location within or outside of a war zone. He struck fame in 1999 with his now-clichéd advice in the New Yorker that you shouldn't order fish on a Monday (it has been sitting there since Friday, by now cloudy eyed); that the worst cuts of meat are reserved for whoever orders it well-done; that chefs prefer weeknight diners over the fair-weather weekend ones. Perhaps none of this applies any more. It certainly sounds less original and significantly more pedestrian 25 years on. He was a better writer than chef, something he was willing to admit. And Bourdain had a tendency toward equivocation (on the one hand Iran ran an oppressively conservative regime towards women, but on the other hand the men on the street were terribly friendly to him). He was an imperfect rhetorician and a troubled man whose life ended in suicide . But there are perennial truths to the world constructed by Bourdain: chefs are mercurial; food is always about more than just food; the daily banalities performed in the kitchen are not incidental to an important life but the source of one; and fish goes off. Maybe his task was all too easy: ventriloquising things that were as true millenniums ago as they will be millenniums from now. He just happened to be the first to really do it.
Spectator
7 days ago
- Entertainment
- Spectator
The confusion of fusion food
There's a joint in east London that describes itself as a 'family-run osteria' and posts about the 'Italian tradition of generous hospitality and simple, beautiful food'. The menu is a combination of several Italian dishes with Japanese ingredients, and I can't think of anything more inappropriate. One of the dishes described as dolce (meaning 'sweet') is a cheese panna cotta with herring caviar. This restaurant has soy sauce nudging the balsamic. Is there no end to the revolting madness that is fusion food? I can understand why young chefs – those tattooed to within an inch of their lives – think they are a cross between Anthony Bourdain and Marco Pierre White and love the idea of mixing miso and chocolate pudding. It has all gone too far. Yes, I hear you object, but who was it that invented salted caramel? Or chilli and chocolate? If Italians had not discovered tomatoes in 1500, the red-sauce joints would not exist and where would we be without bruschetta? Yes, food evolves, and there are some great combinations and discoveries that work beautifully. But some decidedly do not. The food of the Dongbei region of China is cooked according to the available ingredients and the climate, with maize and wheat, meat, pickled vegetables and potatoes predominating. Try fusing that with Sicilian dishes made using ingredients grown in abundance in the sunshine. It's a culinary disaster. Some things should simply never be put together on a plate. I know there are restaurants that don't describe a nation or geographical location as inspiration for their menu. They might just call it 'modern European', which means pretty much anything from the plov (rice, grated carrots and onion) of Uzbekistan to the cheese fondue of Switzerland. But spare me the Korean-Mexican combination I happened upon in a small town in France. Pure hell. Food from south India – for example, coconut masala dosa – should not be paired with that from Alaska, such as berries or reindeer sausage. Soul food is already a fusion of flavours from west and central Africa, western Europe and indigenous cuisine of the Americas, with its hearty flavours such as spicy chicken, black-eyed peas and sweet potato pie. It should never be put anywhere near Cantonese egg-fried rice and wonton soup. However, my greatest gripe is Asian tapas. Spain is already fairly fusion in that it blends flavours and ingredients from its North African neighbours, but the idea of having some delicious smoked almonds, tortilla and pimientos de Padrón served alongside spring rolls with plum sauce is the stuff of nightmares. But it's a nightmare that has come true in the depths of south London. I've avoided crossing the river for food since I found out. Tex-Mex, with its beefy, cheesy, spicy combinations, works because it is cooking born of cultures living side by side. Other dishes originate through convenience and circumstance. Fish and chips, for example, came from Jews in 15th-century Portugal, who found a way to preserve fish by cooking it in batter the day before the Sabbath (when no cooking is allowed). It was eventually paired with chips when, as rumour has it, a young Ashkenazi (from eastern Europe) immigrant opened the first British chippy, aka fish and chip shop, in London in 1863. The point is that these two foods go brilliantly together – whereas Japanese pickled ginger on pizza does not. Pan-Asian restaurants like Sexy Fish – which one reviewer likened to 'a millionaire's TGI Fridays' – seem to shove anything on the menu so long as it vaguely resembles something that originated from the vast East Asian continent. Flavour Bastards, a London fusion gaff which thankfully closed down shortly after opening, boasted of dishes such as South Indian-style white lentil doughnuts with Spanish chorizo and Italian pecorino. A few years back, I found myself working in Dubai and popped into the infamous Friday brunch, served in five-star hotels across the city. Seeing 18 separate food stations – from Italian to Indian and British Sunday roast – was a revelation. I noticed people balancing plates with more countries represented via the food on them than in the United Nations. Mix and match was encouraged, with chefs on each station – for example, the Cantonese dim sum counter – pointing to the Irish stew and soda bread next door, insisting it all goes together. Culinary innovation is one thing. Spaghetti with chicken tikka masala is quite another abomination. Fusion is a crime against food.
Daily Mail
25-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Daily Mail
Tulisa puts on a very revealing display as she parties in Manchester days after sharing snaps of her swollen face after multiple beauty treatments
Tulisa put on a busty display in a very revealing outfit as she stepped out in Manchester on Sunday for a bank holiday party. The singer, 35, showed off her slim physique in the outfit, which consisted of a black bralet and blazer and figure-hugging pencil skirt. She accessorised the outfit with a black clutch handbag and high heels to create a glamorous, trendy look. She wore her long black hair back in a half ponytail, ensuring that her dark features, which she accentuated with a smokey eye, were on full display. The event was being held at Nauge Manchester, which describes itself as an experimental fine dining experience with events across the UK. The members-only club works with several well-known eateries including Marco Pierre White, and D&D London. From A-list scandals and red carpet mishaps to exclusive pictures and viral moments, subscribe to the DailyMail's new Showbiz newsletter to stay in the loop. The singer's night out comes after she visited London earlier this week for a whopping six beauty treatments - later revealing her bloodied face on social media. Tulisa showed off her bloodied nose and swollen face in a series of posts on her Instagram Stories, after completing a series of procedures to keep her 'eyebrows and cheeks' looking pert. Admitting she was keen to pack in as many treatments as possible, Tulisa revealed she had begun with a muscle-enhancing facial treatment at SkinCAN. The former X Factor star, who has previously shared her struggles with Bells Pallsy, explained: 'It enhances the muscles and gives you this snatched look on the face. It's brilliant if you don't want to use fillers.' Tulisa praised the treatment, saying that she really began to notice the results after being able to go five or six months without using Botox. Following the treatment, Tulisa then shared the results on her face, which included a bloody and sore nose, that left her looking like she'd been 'smacked in the face.' She added: 'I asked Jo to go a bit harder on that area because the next thing I'm doing isn't going to be touching that. No pain, no gain.' Next, Tulisa completed a Collagen Wave with radiofrequency technology, performed by Dermastar's Neelam Patel. The procedure uses heat to stimulate fibroblasts - the cells responsible for generating collagen and elastin, resulting in a natural lift and smoothing out fine lines. Sharing that they skipped the usual microneedling treatment, Tulisa told her followers the procedure was 'super relaxing.' Tulisa went onto film herself during a full body massage and reflexology as she enjoyed a moment of calm before her next treatment, followed by Emface, which combines radiofrequency with HIFES (high-intensity facial electrical stimulation) to tone muscles. With her face covered in sticky pads, Tulisa admitted her face was going to be 'a little red' following the treatment. The singer was diagnosed with Bell's palsy in 2020 - a neurological disorder that causes paralysis or weakness on one side of the face when the facial nerve is damaged or stops working properly. Yet she soon became locked in a vicious cycle of having filler to even out her appearance and her face becoming inflamed and swollen. After years of experimenting, Tulisa said she made the decision to remove the filler from her face and now only uses it in her lips.
Yahoo
24-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Meet the chef: From pot washer to head chef who cooked for Marco Pierre White
He's the Southampton steak house head chef who went from pot washer to cooking for legendary chef Marco Pierre White. Mario Leon, from Miller and Carter at Bursledon talks coffee, celery and jelly babies in our meet the chef column. What first inspired you to become a chef? "Watching my mum cook. Me and my sister always used to sit and watch mum while she cooked, she hated an audience but we were mesmerised. I believe that food is a love story and that starts at home." What was the first meal you cooked for someone else? "A classic Spaghetti Bolognese, I grew up with an Italian background so staple Italian dishes were always a regular thing in our house!" (Image: Miller & Carter Southampton)Tell us a bit about your career so far…? "I've worked in hotels and restaurants and have been at Miller and Carter for eight years. I started on pot wash and worked my way up to head chef in that time, through hard work, determination and a lot of hours and commitment. What is your proudest career moment to date? "Cooking for Marco Pierre White. He came in after service had ended and he complimented the steak I had cooked for him, I didn't even know it was for him!" What is your signature dish? "Moqueca – a Brazilian seafood stew!" (Image: Miller & Carter Southampton)What is your favourite dish currently on your menu? "I'm a big fish fan, I love our Pan Roasted Cod Loin, delicate flaky fish compliments the flavours of the butternut squash. Paired with a cold crisp Pinot Grigio, always a winner in our new outside dining area when the sun is shining." What is your favourite meal to cook at home? "Although I spend the majority of my days grilling steak at work, when I get home, I love to cook hearty classics! A lasagne, a roast dinner, the usual family favourites for me and my son." What do you like to drink with dinner? "It really depends on what I'm having, if eating steak its always got to be red wine – Rioja is my favourite." (Image: Miller & Carter Southampton)What is your culinary guilty pleasure? "Coffee is my first love, and most important meal of the day! I can't have anyone else make my first coffee of the day. Otherwise my guilty pleasure is anything sweet – tiramisu, chocolate & jelly babies!" Which key ingredient is always in your fridge? "I always have celery in the fridge, I like to make my own stocks and sauces and celery is a big game changer! I grow it in my garden." What is your favourite Hampshire ingredient? "I regularly use our local farm shop at Pickwell Farm. Me and my son love to pick the strawberries when in season, the pumpkins are great too!" (Image: Miller & Carter Southampton)Which chef do you most admire? "Marco Pierre White, after meeting him I took a lot from him in terms of my kitchen leadership style, he's very calm under pressure but runs a tight ship!" What's your career ambition? "To inspire others, sharing my knowledge with the younger generation and ensuring they have a safe and supportive environment to work in." What do you think will be the next big restaurant trend? "A friend of mine does an all-sensory immersive and theatrical dining experience Euphoria in London, which I think will definitely catch on. It's story-telling through the art form of food. You need to go with an open-mind and be ready to embrace a perfect world down a rabbit hole of nonsense!" (Image: Miller & Carter Southampton)
Yahoo
21-05-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
EatClub raises $18.2m in funding for UK expansion
Australia-based restaurant platform EatClub has secured $18.2m in Series A funding, facilitating its recent expansion into the UK market. Co:Act Capital spearheaded the investment round, with contributions from Marbruck, Gandel Invest and Platform Advisory. The move aims to launch EatClub's distinctive pricing model to London's dining scene, as reported by SmartCompany. Founded in 2017 and endorsed by celebrity chef Marco Pierre White, EatClub initially achieved traction by enabling restaurants to leverage real-time dynamic pricing to fill empty tables. The Covid-19 pandemic posed a significant challenge as dine-in transactions plummeted, but EatClub responded by enhancing its technology. EatClub CEO Pan Koutlakis stated: 'While the world talked about a 'new normal,' we kept building. The board and our investors aligned on a bold move to keep developing breakthrough tech that would future-proof the business. 'It completely re-imagines what a dining incentive should look like. Restaurants get targeted demand, and diners get spontaneity without friction.' The platform introduced EatClub Pay, a payment system that enables diners to claim offers via the app directly, eliminating the need for vouchers or codes. Following a 190% year-on-year surge in 2024, EatClub's business has risen sevenfold from its pre-pandemic peak. The company's growth trajectory paved the way for its international expansion. With the fresh capital, EatClub plans to further its product development and consolidate its position in the global market, starting with its recent foray into the UK. Co:Act Capital partner James Douglas stated: 'We're delighted to have led the round for EatClub. It is such an innovative Australian company, creating real value for both the hospitality industry and consumers. 'At a time when restaurants need smarter tools to drive demand and diners are seeking better experiences and value, EatClub delivers on both fronts. We see enormous potential not just in Australia, but globally.' "EatClub raises $18.2m in funding for UK expansion" was originally created and published by Verdict Food Service, a GlobalData owned brand. The information on this site has been included in good faith for general informational purposes only. It is not intended to amount to advice on which you should rely, and we give no representation, warranty or guarantee, whether express or implied as to its accuracy or completeness. You must obtain professional or specialist advice before taking, or refraining from, any action on the basis of the content on our site.
