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India.com
4 days ago
- India.com
Journey Through Mumbai's Unmapped Streets To Find Historical Gems
Mumbai is known as the city of dreams and has skyscrapers, the iconic Gateway of India, Marine Drive, and other landmarks that are loved by everyone. But behind all that, there exists a set of unmapped alleys that tell a story of their own. Not everything is modernized, and these roads are the oldest in Mumbai, and need to be preserved. For a long time, these roads have kept the history, culture, and the citizens' pulse. Lost Alleys of South Mumbai South Mumbai, the city's oldest region, conceals some of the most fascinating untouched alleys. One of these alleys is located behind the very energetic Crawford Market. The din of the market diminishes as you walk deeper into this alley, leaving you with an unexplained stillness. The walls here tell the story of the area, adorned with graffiti and murals of when it was a flourishing center for traders. It further leads to a neglected old Parsi fire temple, which is almost incognito at the entrance among all the surrounding buildings. This majestic temple, which is one of the oldest in the city, showcases the Parsi community's stronghold in Mumbai. Framing the iconic Flora Fountain, another hidden treasure lies in the Fort section. A passage between two colonial structures is what leads to this hidden courtyard. This courtyard is truly untouched and the spaces invite relaxation. The courtyard is surrounded by dilapidated buildings, their rest already covered with sculptures signifying an ancient beauty. It was first inhabited by British officers and Indian merchants. Today, it is a dignified retreat for those who need to escape the hectic pace of life in the city. Magical Alleys of Bhuleshwar Bhuleshwar, is a savory and fragrant neighborhood in Central Mumbai that is an untapped goldmine of alleys showcasing the city's cultural and spiritual roots. At the center of Bhuleshwar lies an alley. While walking down, one can find small shops that sell incense, temple bells, Indian sweets, spices, and religious items. All of which creates a perfume-like fragrance and the soothing sound of temple bells heightens the experience. Mumbadevi Temple, which is small compared to other temples, is quite historical and stands at the tail end of this alley. It is believed that the goddess who the temple is dedicated to is the namesake of the city from which Mumbai derived its name from. Another alley leading in the opposite direction gives access to the Walkeshwar Temple. It's a majestic temple that is married intimately with nature having burnt down our banyan trees growing around it. This temple is a 'must visit' for anyone who adores Turbo and is dedicated to the Enlightened God known as Shiva and is believed to have been erected in the twelfth century AD by the Silhara dynasty for their love of nature. Stand grateful as the nature further nourishes Walkeshwar Temple with serenity as they burn with compassion the alley leading to it makes you fall in love with Mumbai with each step. Alleys of Girgaum Girgaum is one of the oldest parts of Mumbai. It is heavily uncharted so it is quite easy to get lost, but what you see makes the exploration worth it. One of the alleys is quite literally home to 'wadas' or traditional houses that are even more majestic from the inside. These walls are built in a traditional style and were owned by affluent Marathi families in the past. This style of architecture is slowly changing due to the conversion of these houses into small shops and cafes, but these places still capture the hearts of those who see them. One more alley goes to the renowned Kalbadevi Temple which is dedicated to the goddess Kali. Although the temple is not large, it is very famous and quite crowded on special days of the year. On the way to the temple, you pass one of the most beautiful and full of life alleys as people burst into devotional songs, children make colourful rangoli and you smell delicious prasad being served. Secret Alcoves Located in South Mumbai is Mazgaon, a neighbourhood with some of the most breathtaking alleys in the city. These alleys stand out in comparison to the wider parts of the city as they are vibrant and often peaceful. One such maze stretches out into the old Portuguese houses whose richly coloured pastel walls clash beautifully with the more modern buildings around. Their construction dates back to the 1600s and acts as a symbol for the colonial times. At times, the maze leads to a quaint chapel, which feels as if it has been pulled from a story book, and sits peacefully with beautifully crafted walls and stained glass windows. Yet another alley leads to the rustically named Dockyard Road, which used to be a commercialised region of shipbuilders and international traders. With time, it transformed into a more quiet region where vividly colourful alleyways are scattered across. Abandoned big sturdy wooden warehouses with rusty gates and decaying walls serve as a reminder to the city's port history. Heart of Mumbai The essence of Mumbai beats through these municipal lanes. Walking through them feels as if you have ventured into a magical land where the soul of the city thrives, waiting to be uncovered. These lanes remind us of Mumbai's culture, in a city that is 'in progress' all the time. They stand as proof for how Mumbai, and its citizens, have succeeded in maintaining their history, despite sweeping developments. Hence, when you are in Mumbai the next time, go a little off track, and investigate some of these unmapped paths. There's a chance you might find a tale that is unexplored and is looking for its narrator.
Mint
07-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Mint
‘A Show of Hands': Celebrating the generous mentorship of artist Gieve Patel
All through Indian art history, there have been instances of artists as mentors to generations of young practitioners, ranging from Ramkinkar Baij and Nandalal Bose to K.G. Subramanyan and Jyoti Bhatt. An ongoing exhibition, A Show of Hands , at Jehangir Nicolson Art Foundation (JNAF) in Mumbai examines the role of another beloved mentor, Gieve Patel, who died in 2023. Largely self-taught and primarily a figurative painter, his work explored urban landscapes, people on the margins and the impact of human development on the ecology. He was a doctor—as well as an artist, poet and playwright, and found wide recognition in each of these professions. A Show of Hands is curated by cultural theorist Ranjit Hoskote, who found a mentor in Patel as a teenager. The two shared a deep friendship for nearly four decades. The exhibition feels like an intimate, soulful remembrance while also being a celebration of the values Patel held close. The first edition of this show was held at Vadehra Art Gallery in Delhi last year, and has now opened in Mumbai, which not only served as the artist's home but also his muse. Also read: Looking back at the intertwined legacies of Tagore and Ray According to Puja Vaish, director, JNAF, the showcase is a tribute to the institution's longstanding ties with Patel. 'Jehangir Nicolson had purchased a seminal work by Patel, Statesmen on a Floral Rostrum (1972), from his solo show at Pundole's Gallery, and it later featured in JNAF's inaugural exhibition in 2011," she explains. Hoskote approached the design of the exhibition and the narrative based on the specifics of space. 'I have designed this avatar [of the exhibition] as a Fibonacci spiral, starting out with a tightly-linked set of works with Gieve's at the centre," he explains. The show then opens out in a whorl of works by other artists responding to Patel's values, spaced along a rhythm of close and distant, 'which approach and stand back from Gieve's perennial themes of the wounded body, trauma and transcendence, the tension between the vulnerable and the inviolate, the replenishing yet mysterious presence of water, and the joys of friendship." The show features works by senior artists Nilima Sheikh, Anju Dodiya, Ghulammohammed Sheikh, Atul Dodiya, Ranbir Kaleka, Jitish Kallat and Sudhir Patwardhan. Two photographs taken by Atul Dodiya, placed at diagonally opposite ends of the exhibition, bring the persona of Patel as a gentle, affable and considerate man to life. Dodiya has also contributed Laughter (2024), which echoes the deep sense of humour of the artist while infusing aspects of mememto mori—an acknowledgement of the meaningful life Patel lived. Also read: Books: Upamanyu Chatterjee is master of the absurd in his new collection Another work that stands out is Marine Drive (2024) by Sudhir Patwardhan, which revisits the close bond that the two doctor-artists shared. It shows them sharing a relaxed evening on Mumbai's sea-facing promenade. While the camaraderie that Patel shared with his fellow contemporaries in Mumbai is well known, what comes across as interesting is his influence on the younger generation of artists. This is evoked through works by Aditi Singh, Biraaj Dodiya, Areez Katki, Sujith S.N., Ratheesh T. and Mahesh Baliga. Areez Katki met the senior artist in 2019 at a printmaking workshop and residency in Mumbai in which they were both participants. He was drawn to the organic nature of Patel's Daphne sculptures. 'That work was extremely compelling for me, not just as a reference to mythologies but also due to the tension held by bodies in the process of escaping danger. I appreciated how Gieve had represented the narrative of Daphne as a figure from whom autonomy, freedom of movement and feminine concerns around safety were brought to the fore," he says. In the exhibition, Katki is presenting Daphne (after Gieve Patel) , 2021, a cotton embroidery work made on a dhurrie rug, which represents his own take on the same character from Greek mythology. Thirty-one-year-old Biraaj Dodiya's parents—artists Anju and Atul— shared a close friendship with Patel. She has wonderful memories of dinner table conversations involving her family, Gieve and his daughter Avaan, and the Patwardhans. 'Often this would be after an opening of an exhibition or a lecture. There would be laughter, and discussions about art, cinema and literature. Gieve was a wonderful storyteller, and had a great sense of humour," she reminisces. Also read: Planner: 5 events to shake things up this week Her set of works made specifically for the exhibition, titled Sleep Chorus I-VIII (2024), is a series of painted steel sculptures, the forms of which reference ancient Egyptian, Japanese and Ethiopian headrests. The pedestals are inspired by medical stretchers—motifs she has worked with in the past as well. 'I was thinking about Gieve's life as a doctor, poet and painter. There is a tactile quality in both nurturing patients and in the act of painting. The faded worn surfaces of rexine pillows in doctors' clinics in Mumbai suburbs is where all kinds of heads rest and find respite. I was also thinking about the idea of healing. I place that in context of Gieve's sense of openness to people and their lives," she says. One of Sujith S.N.'s works, Dialogue (2024), a large watercolour on paper, shows a figure at the bottom of a waterfall. It references one of Patel's well-known paintings, Gateway (1981), which is currently in the permanent collection of Peabody Essex Museum, Massachusetts. 'I was inspired by Gieve's works as a response to the evolving urban landscape of Bombay. But my work is more like a dreamscape, which embodies the aspirations of many who migrate to the city for better opportunities," he says. Mahesh Baliga too has contributed two works: they are small but hold deep personal significance. The first, Two Poets (2021),shows the late Aveek Sen engaged in conversation with Patel. The other,Pakhi Babu (2018-2019), is especially dear to him as Patel had singled it out for appreciation at one of Baliga's shows. Hoskote attributes Patel's appeal among younger artists to his clarity of thought, and his refusal to follow dogmas or chase trends. He feels that they appreciated the precision and pertinence of his advice. As a young poet, he remembers having asked Patel about the direction that he should take. 'He told me, 'You should go deep down to where things are broken'. It took me a number of years, and a lot of growing-up, to recognise the wisdom of this advice. It allowed me to see and practise for myself the art of listening and healing, of attentiveness and repair," says the curator. Show of Hands | In Memoriam: Gieve Patel can be viewed at Jehangir Nicholson Art Foundation Gallery, Mumbai, till 25 May. Anindo Sen is an independent writer.
