25-04-2025
Forget the Rhine and Danube – Europe's best river cruise is in Belgium
Belgians will proudly tell you there was a time when you could sample a different beer every day of the year, and three years later, you would still be tasting something new. These days, it's more about quality over quantity – at least, that's the case on board CroisiEurope's new canal barge cruise from Halle to Ghent – and not just when it comes to beer.
Easily reached from the UK by air or Eurostar to Brussels, it's fitting that the first stop on the itinerary is a city tour of the capital, where the country's most famous symbol, the Manneken Pis, continues to draw legions of tourists. In truth, the 55.5cm bronze fountain statue of a urinating boy is fairly unremarkable, except for the fact that it now has more than a thousand different costumes, housed in a nearby museum.
More remarkable is the city's Grand-Place, described by Victor Hugo as 'the most beautiful square in the world'. Its majestic town hall, Maison du Roi (home to the Brussels City Museum) and opulent gilded baroque guild halls reflect Brussels's Golden Age in the 17th century.
Belgium's association with chocolate began in 1635. Its history is explained in bewildering detail at the city's Chocolate Museum, but is perhaps better experienced at one of Brussels's numerous chocolate shops. No end of flavour combinations are on offer from all the big names, including Neuhaus, the inventor of the praline, and Chocolaterie Mary, founded by Belgium's first female chocolatier, Mary Delluc, said to have come up with the idea of a box to keep them in.
Food is a major unique selling proposition (USP) of CroisiEurope's new Belgium itinerary. Mornings begin with strong coffee, omelettes, charcuterie and freshly baked pastries. A bell is rung at midday for an aperitif, followed by daily three-course lunches, proudly announced by the barge's French chef, plus an additional cheese course. In the evening, the bell rings again as the cocktail of the day is delivered, before the chef reveals the evening menu. Paired wines with every meal add to CroisiEurope's gastronomic identity.
Founded in 1976 by Gérard Schmitter, the Halle-to-Ghent cruise is the company's first barge itinerary outside of France. The dinky MS Raymonde vessel, built in 2018, has just 11 twin rooms and a staff of six, offering a completely unique cruising experience.
The fact that it moves via water is just about the only comparison that can be made with its bigger cruise cousins. Every inch of space is maximised in compact cabins with hidden wardrobes, concealed drawers and secret cupboards. Upstairs, the dining room and an area of comfy banquettes in the barge's quirky palette of violets, purples and burnt orange open to a terrace with a jacuzzi and steps to the expansive sun deck.
Locks obviously play a big part in canal cruising, and this itinerary takes in the incredible Strépy-Thieu boat lift, the second largest of its type in the world. With an impressive 73.15m incline, it's an engineering feat which connects two Belgian waterways with a dramatic height difference. Other locks along the 152km route aren't quite so mind-boggling to experience, but each helps to underline the sense that this is slow travel at its finest. As runners and cyclists zoom along the towpath, Raymonde just pootles along, taking everything in its stride until it's time to visit another Belgian landmark.
The Château de Beloeil has been dubbed the Belgian Versailles, and while it doesn't quite live up to its namesake, it's still a treat to visit. The beautiful house has been in the same noble family for more than 700 years and was originally built as a defensive castle. Following a fire in 1900, it was carefully restored, and visitors flock to enjoy its lavish salons, French furniture, Van Dyck paintings and a stunning library of rare books.
It's also conveniently well located for a visit to the Chant d'Eole vineyard, which produces a very impressive sparkling wine, produced by the méthode champenoise. Geographically, it can't call itself a champagne, but it certainly gives the French tipple a run for its money.
Continuing the unhurried agenda on Raymonde, a leisurely stroll around Mons took us to the famous market square where the legend of the Angel of Mons – whom First World War British soldiers believed they witnessed protecting them in battle – is still celebrated. In 2014, the then-Prince William and Princess Kate visited the city's gothic City Hall to commemorate the war's centenary.
Belgium's dense network of waterways crosses Flanders and Wallonia from east to west and north to south. It also connects with the Scheldt river, where the lovely town of Oudenaarde is situated. The city is mostly associated with cycling, in particular the Tour de Flanders, but also boasts a magnificent 16th-century Gothic town hall. It also happens to be close to a family-run distillery that produces Belgian Jenever (a juniper-flavoured spirit known as Dutch gin), plus a range of whiskies. And yes, you get to sample the goods.
The grand finale of CroisiEurope's Belgian barge trip is a day trip to Bruges, almost a theme park of medieval buildings with colourful stories. On the way into the historic centre, you pass through a preserved beguinage (village within a town) which was once the home of lay religious women, or beguines, who were often associated with witchcraft thanks to their penchant for wearing pointy hats and having black cats to keep the rats at bay.
The town still produces the famous Brugse Zot, a light blonde beer also known as 'crazy beer', as some of the more questionable ingredients originally added in its production included meat and metals. Thankfully, the modern version is much more palatable. You'd be mad not to try it.
Belgium's waterways may not have the fanfare of the Rhine or the Danube, but if it's excellent food and slow travel that moves you, this is the cruise for you.
Essentials
Nicole Carmichael was a guest of CroisiEurope, which has a six-night cruise between Halle and Ghent aboard MS Raymonde from £1,356pp, including all meals and drinks, excursions, use of onboard bicycles, Wi-fi and port fees.
