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Forbes
3 days ago
- Science
- Forbes
Why Star Trek Owes A Debt To Ancient Crete
The ruins of the ancient Minoan Palace at Knossos, Crete A stone's throw from Heraklion's ancient city walls, a modern-day McDonald's stands at the crossroads of a busy urban thoroughfare here on the Greek island of Crete. Four thousand years ago, however, Crete was also a crossroads dominated by a mysterious and largely still poorly understood Bronze Age culture that predated classical Greece. For those familiar with Star Trek: The Next Generation, it's hard not to compare Crete's ancient Minoans with the Ferengi, the fictional 24th century traders so savvy in dealing across space, time and civilizations. Not only were the Minoans adept at trade, but they were likely well ahead of their time when it came to celestial navigation. It's even arguable that their celestial prowess paved the way for the same sort of stellar navigation still in use at sea and now even in space. According to at least one researcher, the Minoans were using stellar navigation to trade with partners via all four cardinal points of the compass. I hypothesize that the Minoans employed a form of sidereal navigation similar to traditional Polynesian techniques—using star paths as directional guides across the sea, Alessandro Berio, an independent archeoastronomer, who holds a masters in cultural astronomy from the University of Wales in the U.K., told me via email. This is supported by archeoastronomical evidence of Minoan palatial alignments toward the rising or setting points of key stars, corresponding to trade routes to major Bronze Age port cities across the eastern Mediterranean, he says. In a new paper that Berio is preparing for journal submission, he argues that his most significant finding is the proposition that Arcturus—one of the brightest stars in the northern hemisphere—may have served as a primary navigational anchor in a Bronze Age sidereal system. That is, one that linked some of the most important cultural and political centers of the Aegean and the Mediterranean. I argue that the palace of Malia—one of Crete's major Minoan complexes—had a deliberate alignment with the rising of Arcturus, guiding seafarers along a star path toward Miletus, the principal Minoan outpost on Asia Minor's Anatolian coast, says Berio. Arcturus, the fourth brightest star in the night sky is an aging red giant only 36.6 light years away. It's also the brightest star in the northern constellation of Bootes, a constellation known to be used for navigation by the ancient Greeks. Berio wonders whether Arcturus functioned as a celestial beacon across multiple cultural spheres—Minoan, Mycenaean, and Egyptian. In a 2022 paper published in the journal Mediterranean Archaeology and Archaeometry, Berio argued that the Minoans aligned their palaces with the stars Spica, Castor, Betelgeuse, Markab and even Sirius to navigate on imaginary lines to all points around the Mediterranean, including the Greek mainland, Asia Minor, Cyprus, the northeastern Nile delta, and even further west along North Africa. The Minoans were cosmopolitan people who traveled across the Mediterranean exporting olive oil, wine, cereals, textiles, and leather goods while importing precious materials like gold, silver, and ivory, Kostis Christakis, an archeologist and director of the Knossos Research Center of the British school at Athens, told me in his office on Crete. The Minoans knew how to trade and produced various goods for the Egyptian, Levantine, and Cypriot markets, Sue Sherratt, an archeologist at the University of Sheffield in the U.K., told me via email. In the Early and Middle Bronze Ages silver from further north in the Aegean destined for the east may have been channeled through Crete, she says. How did the Minoans use celestial navigation? Similar to traditional Polynesian and Micronesian navigators, the Minoans may have mapped the rising and setting of stars to specific angles on the horizon, says Berio. By following these 'star paths'—linear constellations rising at known azimuths—and combining this with seasonal knowledge of winds and currents, they could reliably sail to distant ports across the Aegean and eastern Mediterranean and expand their trade network, he says. Berio used OpenCPN, an open-source software, to plot likely Minoan navigation routes between two distant points. The correct altitude at which a star was visible on the horizon he determined by using Stellarium, a free software planetarium, as noted in his new paper. To mimic the naked eye observations of the Minoans, Berio limited the stars he plotted to only a magnitude of six. To achieve this kind of navigational accuracy, the Minoans would have needed to calculate course angles across hundreds of kilometers of open sea; we don't know how they did it, says Berio. The possibility exists that they developed some form of proto-coordinate system, perhaps using celestial zenith stars for latitude, and/or comparing simultaneous lunar and solar eclipses for longitude, he says. They likely first arrived on Crete from what is today southwest Anatolia in Asia Minor. Even though this civilization has been dubbed Minoan, in truth, no one knows what they called themselves, much less what they called the island of Crete. The myth of King Minos came later from Greek culture, but the Minoans were not Greek, says Christakis. A model of the ancient Minoan palace at Creek as it may have looked around 1800 B.C. pictured here ... More inside the Heraklion Archeological Museum. Yet the center of their society was clearly their palaces. Used over six centuries from roughly 2000 B.C. until 1450 B.C., the Minoan palaces were the main administrative, economic, religious and ideological centers of Crete, says Christakis. Standing atop the ruins of the palace at Knossos, I'm surrounded by semi-arid, wooded mountains that envelop this complicated maze. It's hard to imagine what it must have looked like in its full glory, but clearly this was a very sophisticated civilization that predated classical Greece by some five hundred years. On the muggy afternoon I was there, a real-life peacock perched on a much-degraded stone wall seemed to perfectly fit this place in time. My first thought was that great ancestors of this peafowl must have paraded their plumage when the palace itself was in all its splendor; delighting the residents with their haunting calls. A peacock on an ancient ledge at the Palace of Knossos, Crete At present, we simply know too little about the Minoans to determine whether they had a more philosophical and esoteric side, but like Star Trek's Ferengi, they were all about accumulating wealth. The upper echelons of their society, at least, seem to live in high style. As for their celestial prowess? The biggest enigma is whether we're seeing evidence of lost mathematical knowledge, or a navigational system so embodied in ritual, architecture, and oral memory that it never needed to be written down, says Berio. What puzzles me most is how the Minoans could have measured the angle of a sea route between two distant locations with such precision — especially without known instruments or a documented system of trigonometry, he says. The author inside part of the Palace at Knossos
The Independent
22-05-2025
- The Independent
The 11 best holiday destinations in August for summer sun
As summer approaches, greater attention will turn to plans with family and friends for that long-awaited trip abroad. With brighter days, warmer temperatures and the kids off school, August remains a popular choice of month for a summer holiday. While the UK weather can range from heatwave to downpours, many destinations offer near-uninterrupted sun along with more manageable daily temperatures. Some places are best avoided at the height of summer, such as Seville, where temperatures can regularly hit 40C. Nevertheless, there are plenty of enticing destinations, both in Europe and further afield, where August is the perfect month for a holiday, whether you're looking at getting stuck into some history and culture or picture yourself sprawling on a sun lounger. From a Greek island to the Portuguese coast, Italian lakes to a Columbian city, here are some destinations that are sure to inspire your August summer holiday. Crete, Greece Average temperature in August: 29C Hours of sunshine per day: 11 With an average temperature just under 30C and just under 12 hours of sunshine per day, August in Crete offers a more pleasant and temperate experience than nearby Corfu or mainland Greece. The largest and most populous of the Greek islands, Crete is a mountainous island as famed for its historical importance (think of the Minoans) as it is for its beaches. Tourists can visit the capital, Heraklion, to see a stunning old harbour, Venetian architecture and the ruins of the (alleged) oldest city in the world, Knossos. Alternatively, go to Chania for another scenic harbour, colourful buildings and beautiful beaches. Other towns, such as Rethymno, are less touched by tourism for those hoping for more of an 'authentic' experience of Greece. Nice, France Average temperature in August: 28C Hours of sunshine per day: 10 One of the most famous cities on the French Riviera, Nice has long been a tourist destination. Queen Victoria was known to have visited several times, while other visits from European aristocracy in the 18th and 19th centuries contributed to its establishment as a fashionable destination. Today, Nice stands out as one of the more accessible and affordable places in southern France and was recently awarded status as a Unesco World Heritage site in 2021. With several plazas, its own beach (and the famous Promenade des Anglais), a picturesque port and buzzing nightlife, Nice's high-end reputation has morphed into being a city with something for everyone. Valencia, Spain Average temperature in August: 31C Hours of sunshine per day: 10 Spain 's third city has enjoyed a rise in popularity with foreign tourists in recent years. Offering miles of golden sand, warm sea and the guarantee of heat and sun, it also contains an extensive old town that is lined with cobbled streets, a range of quality restaurants, hole-in-the-wall bars and independent shops. Three impressive plazas and a stunning cathedral form the focal point of the city, while the beaches of Malvarrosa and Patacona are home to dozens of cafes, beach bars, excellent (often paella-led) restaurants, football and volleyball pitches, and dozens of happy locals. Attractions include the City of Arts and Sciences (and its aquarium), the 12km Turia Gardens and the Holy Chalice, supposedly used by Jesus during the Last Supper. Dubrovnik, Croatia Average temperature in August: 30C Hours of sunshine per day: 11 Perched tantalisingly close to the Adriatic Sea, Dubrovnik is the seaside gem of Croatia. While more recently famous for being the filming location for Game of Thrones, the Old Town, encircled by 16th-century walls, is replete with Baroque and Gothic architecture, impressive squares and limestone streets. Visitors can walk along some sections of the walls before taking in several medieval buildings, such as the clock tower or cathedral. Though pebbly in places, the beaches offer great access into the azure waters of the Adriatic and also house – along with the Old Town – a good portion of the city's nightlife. British Colombia, Canada Average temperature in August: 21C Hours of sunshine per day: 11 Although cooler than some summer getaways, August is the perfect month to visit one of Canada 's most beautiful provinces. Home to the city of Vancouver, part of the Canadian Rockies and incredible forests and lakes, British Colombia is best experienced in summer when the full range of outdoor activities is possible. The cooler temperatures allow for getting out and about in any of the seven national parks, where you can swim, hike, fish, cycle and kayak to your heart's content. If you prefer, visit Vancouver – the third largest city in the country – or go to Whistler; even outside of ski season, the famous resort town provides plenty of natural beauty and opportunities for physical activities. Parts of the province receive up to seven days of rain during August, but you can seize this opportunity to see stunning areas of natural beauty in different conditions. Algarve, Portugal Average temperature in August: 29C Hours of sunshine per day: 11 A popular destination for Brits, visit the Algarve for rugged, golden beaches, picturesque towns, and blue seas and skies. This slither of southern Portugal has several amazing locations for sun in August, with its temperate Mediterranean climate meaning it often stays cooler than other places in the country. Faro, the region's capital, contains the main airport and also offers cobbled streets, neoclassical architecture and nearby green spaces. Albufeira, 46km away, is one of the most popular beach and party towns in the area, with rocky cliffs, hidden coves and several adventure activities. Lagos offers similar with regard to beaches but with a more calm and relaxed atmosphere. Tavira and Silves provide a similar range of activities and beaches as well as scenic Old Towns. Medellín, Colombia Average temperature in August: 29C Hours of sunshine per day: 11 While many nearby destinations are coming out of (or are in the middle of) winter in August, Medellin's location (just over 400 miles north of the equator) means that August temperatures remain high. Nicknamed 'The City of Eternal Spring' due to its good weather, the city was once more famous for drug production than as a tourist destination. However, the sprawling city set in the mountains of Antioquia has improved enormously in recent years, with recent advances in transport and infrastructure saw it named as the most innovative city in the world by the Urban Land Institute. It now holds a reputation as a clean, thriving and safe city, with several features – such as its wildlife setting, extensive metro system, and cable cars – contributing to the city becoming a 'hipster holiday destination'. Ljubljana, Slovenia Average temperature in August: 27C Hours of sunshine per day: 10 The Slovenian capital is another city that has become somewhat of a hipster destination in recent years, for good reason. With the river and medieval castle as focal points, the city offers several lesser-known cultural attractions and plenty of opportunities to learn about the region's often understudied history. The city is home to several excellent bars and restaurants (both on the riverside and further into town). Those looking to combine an urban break with some rural escapism can pair a visit with a trip to Lake Bled, a lakeside town just an hour from the capital. Its idyllic setting and small size make for an easy spot to relax and unwind by the water. Trincomalee, Sri Lanka Average temperature in August: 34C Hours of sunshine per day: 9 Anyone looking to travel further may want to head to the Indian Ocean. The weather in Sri Lanka varies quite dramatically throughout the island, but August presents an excellent opportunity to visit the north. The city of Jaffna on the northern tip of the island might offer the taste of a city and Wilpattu National Park is home to the natural beauty of lakes, but Trincomalee provides both – with the addition of scenic port and beach areas. Gokarna Bay is known for its white sand, while the city itself is home to historic Hindu temples such as Koneswaram and Bhadrakali Amman. If the beaches don't take your fancy, you can head to nearby Kanniya and visit the hot springs. Milan and the Lakes, Italy Average temperature in August: 29C Hours of sunshine per day: 8 Famous as a fashion capital, Milan is one of the most accessible cities in Italy due to the number of daily flights from the UK. In summer, it receives fewer tourists than southern destinations and is often far cooler, with its average temperatures of 29C ensuring it's still a smart summer choice. While the city itself has a plethora of cultural, historical, architectural and leisure attractions, the nearby lakes of Como, Maggiore and Garda can be reached by direct train services (journeys take between 40 minutes to just over an hour) and offer more picturesque views with a lakeside setting. While prior planning may be needed to minimise some of the costs, the opportunity to bask in the lakeside sun just before ordering your risotto may be too good for some to turn down. Tunis, Tunisia Average temperature in August: 27C Hours of sunshine per day: 11 Sun-soaked beaches, fresh seafood and towns brimming with fascinating architecture and culture, Tunisia in North Africa is both an inspiring and safe bet for an awesome summer holiday. Come August, the capital Tunis bursts colour and life as visitors flock for an alternative Mediterranean get-away with much to explore. Spend some time unravelling the city's maze-like medieval medina which is home to vibrant and lively souqs, while the Great Mosque Zitouna and Bardo National Museum are among the visitor highlights. While in the area, a day in the pretty fishing village Sidi Bou Said – whose beauty inspired artist Paul Klee – is a must, while for a swim in turquoise waters, skip over to the inviting sands of the quieter and spacious Amilcar Beach.
Otago Daily Times
28-04-2025
- Otago Daily Times
A taste of Greece in Crete
This excerpt from Lonely Planet's 100 Weekends in Europe demonstrates Crete's combination of cultural and natural spectacles make it a perfect destination for a quick getaway. The largest of the Hellenic islands, Crete is a condensed version of Greece, and a weekend here offers a tantalising taster of its charms. Underwater caves, shipwrecks and diverse marine life will delight divers, while inland, hikers can enjoy scenic walks through the island's many gorges. Beach lovers head for the south coast's Preveli (with a freshwater strand as well as the sea), the palm-backed Vai at Crete's northeast tip or, in the southeast, the delightful Elafonisi, with pink-tinged sand and turquoise waters. History buffs won't be disappointed, either. The place where the legendary King Minos is said to have kept his minotaur, the Palace of Knossos was the former capital of the Minoans, whose legacy is preserved in the archaeological museum in the capital, Iraklio (Heraklion). The evocative Old Town of Hania (Chania), with its winding streets and Greek, Ottoman and Venetian architecture, leads to a waterfront promenade lined with pastel houses. Between the two, Rethymno is equally attractive, as is the fortified island of Spinalonga. And in the interior, venture into the tavernas and kafeneio (cafes) of remote villages to enjoy Cretan cooking and warm hospitality. Check out Cretan farmhouse living For a hands-on immersion into the traditions of rural Crete, take a trip to one of the island's working farms, many of which have opened up their doors to visitors. You can book in for a few hours or a day (or even overnight — many also offer accommodation); typical activities might include watching olive oil production, learning how to make local breads and cheeses, or taking a cooking class, as well as pitching in with herb picking and feeding the animals. Recommended Cretan farms include Agreco ( the ecotourism village Enagron ( and the Dalabelos Estate ( Follow a wine route Wine has been produced in Crete over four millennia, and this long tradition of winemaking is best explored by taking a tour of the island's wineries, the majority of which are located around Iraklio ( If you have a car (and a designated driver), it's easy to plot a route around the wineries, which offer tastings, tours and a wealth of information on the local grape varieties. Alternatively, take an organised wine tour with Made in Crete ( including transport, tastings and lunch. Paddle a sea kayak along the Cretan coast What could be more exciting than discovering the Cretan coastline from a kayak? Numerous operators rent kayaks with which you can explore the coast independently and organise guided excursions lasting a few hours or a full day; two-day excursions to discover the coves and cliffs that dot the southern coast are also available. Take a hike through gorgeous gorges Hiking through the many gorges that slice through the Cretan landscape is a must-do for hikers. Most make a beeline for the famous Samaria, but for less-frequented trails, head to the likes of Imbros Gorge, half as long as Samaria at 8km, and a two- to three-hour walk from end to end along a scenic one-time mule path. In the east of the island, Zakros Gorge offers a range of lovely walks along a meandering green river (dry in summer); the canyon walls are dotted with Minoan burial sites, earning Zakros its Valley of the Dead nickname. You can walk independently, but guided hikes are also available. More time? Gadvos: Anendyk Seaways ( offers summer ferries (around two hours from Hora Sfakion) between Crete and this southernmost of the Greek islands, a wild and unspoilt place with lovely beaches and a pine-and cedar-swathed interior. Lasithi Plateau: Dotted with windmills and overlooked by the peaks of the Dikti Mountains, this fertile plateau in eastern Crete's Lasithi Province is home to the Dikteon Cave where, according to legend, the earth goddess Rhea is said to have given birth to Zeus, safe from the clutches of his cannibalistic father Cronos. The artfully lit interior is a riot of impressive stalactites. Cretan raki While ouzo is very popular in other parts of Greece, in Crete it's all about raki. Also known as tsikoudia, this fragrant, clear spirit is distilled from strafylla, the pulp that remains after grapes are crushed and pressed to make wine. Similar to French marc and Italian grappa (though unlike Turkish rak, no anise is added here), Cretan raki is a popular aperitif, and you'll often be offered a glass to round off a meal at the island's tavernas. Production begins in October at the island's distilleries, and Cretan villages celebrate the event with tastings. If it's chilly, try rakomelo, flavoured with honey and cinnamon and often served warm. Practicalities How to get there: Crete has two international airports, in Hania and Iraklio. Low-cost airlines run to both from European cities and the UK. Where to stay: Inland, especially around Hania and Rethymno, staying on a farm offers an atmospheric alternative to the beachside hotels. Many offer farm-to-table meals too. The book 100 Weekends in Europe by Lonely Planet, $55 RRP. Available at Whitcoulls or contact
Telegraph
03-03-2025
- Telegraph
An expert's honest review of every (major) Greek island
It would be easy to think that one Greek island is pretty much like another. After all, they belong to the same country, swelter under the same – almost inevitably blazing – sun, and promise the same laid-back vibe. Their tavernas, reassuringly, offer the same delicious staples. In my decades of exploring them, however, I've discovered plenty of differences. From the Minoans to the Romans, the Venetians to the Ottomans, successive invaders have left their mark on each island's culture, habits, clothes, music, and even food. A major hub of Western civilisation's earliest maritime trade routes, the Cyclades are littered with ancient sites, while the Dodecanese – occupied by the Italians from 1912 to 1943 – reveal a strong Italian influence, not only in the local dialect which uses a lot of borrowed words, but also in the cuisine – pizza obviously, but also in half a dozen pasta specialities that you won't find elsewhere. Crete, birthplace of the mysterious Minoan civilisation, and the island Greeks themselves know as the megalo nisi (the big island), is a world all in itself – head for any village kafenion (Greek café) and you're bound to hear raki-fuelled talk of epanastasi (revolution), reflecting the islanders' oft-voiced (if not acted-upon) desire for independence. So which should be on your travel bucket list? Which lesser-known spots are worth a visit, and which aren't worth the effort? Below, I've listed the 50 largest Greek islands. In ascending order, I've offered my candid verdict on their all-round visitor appeal, and given them a mark out of 10. You may not agree, of course, in which case, please leave your comments below. One of Greece's most LGBT-friendly destinations, this Cycladic island, whose emigrants helped build Athens, populating the picturesque Anfiotika district at the foot of the Acropolis, is like Mykonos before mass tourism. Expect feet-in-the-sand beach clubs, cosy bars and oodles of designer wear, without the whopping price tags. My verdict: 5/10 49. Sikinos 'Sandy beaches make it a big hit with Greek families' Population: 253 A welcome breath of authenticity in the centre of the Cyclades, this low-key island is a big hit with Greek families. They come here in summer for the gloriously sheltered sandy beaches and return in winter to eat katsiki lemonato (goat in lemon sauce) and other specialities in its handful of tavernas which – unlike those on neighbouring islands – stay open all year round. My verdict: 7/10 48. Agios Efstratios 'Inhabitants cling doggedly to their own customs' Size: 16.7 square miles Population: 250 A prison for political dissidents during the Junta years (there's a museum telling the story), the island's few remaining inhabitants cling doggedly to their own customs on this chunk of rock, 30 kilometres south-west of Lemnos. There's not a great deal to entice tourists, with just one main village, beaches linked by dirt tracks, and a taverna serving dishes including locally caught lobster. My verdict: 2/10 47. Psara 'The best lobster linguine you'll ever taste' Size: 17.2 square miles Population: 420 Dubbed 'the heroes' island' by Greeks because of its vital role in the country's 1821 War of Independence, the pristine waters of this rocky island, a short ferry ride from Chios, belong to Greece's largest lobster fishing ground. This translates as tavernas serving the best (and cheapest) lobster linguine you'll ever taste. My verdict: 4/10 46. Nisyros 'As spectacular as Santorini – but without the crowds' Population: 1,048 Seen from the air, this volcanic atoll is easily as spectacular as Santorini. Unlike that overtouristed island, however, Nisyros is an uncrowded time warp. Life is centred around the volcano-rim village of Nikia and capital Mandrakis, whose labyrinth streets lead to a medieval castle built by the Knights of St John. My verdict: 6/10 45. Skiathos 'Come for white-sand beaches and raucous nightlife' Size: 19.3 square miles Population: 5,802 Cosmopolitan Skiathos has lively nightlife, but away from the main town this lush island's white-sand beaches, ancient archaeological sites and far-flung monasteries are perfect for lovers of nature and culture. Greeks flock here for tavernas serving katsikaki me patates (goat with potatoes) and other delicious dishes. My verdict: 5/10 44. Hydra 'Traffic-free streets attract a bohemian crowd' Population: 1,966 Expect cutting-edge galleries and boutique boltholes on this Saronic island, a ferry hop from Athens, whose striking stone mansions (including one that belonged to Leonard Cohen) and traffic-free cobbled streets have attracted a bohemian crowd – from Chagall to Callas – for decades. My verdict: 6/10 43. Tilos 'A twitcher's paradise' Population: 780 The first certified zero-waste island in the world, this unspoilt spot midway between Kos and Rhodes is a twitcher's paradise. Squeaky clean beaches and a surprisingly lively capital also make a visit worthwhile. My verdict: 7/10 42. Symi 'A cosmopolitan island that lures yachties' Population: 2,580 The Dodecanese's most cosmopolitan island, Symi's clock tower, fish market and Battenberg-cake-coloured shipowner's mansions lure yachties, who park in the harbour and climb the Kali Strata, the 500-stepped stairway to the heaven that is Chora's tavernas, with their breathtaking sunset views. My verdict: 5/10 41. Kasos 'Perfect for would-be Robinson Crusoes' Size: 26.8 square miles Population: 1,088 Surprisingly for such a tiny island, Kasos in the Dodecanese has four blue-trimmed villages replete with kafenions, along with its very own ancient Mycenaean acropolis and an impressive gorge that locals have dubbed Greece's 'Grand Canyon'. Sand-strewn islets perfect for would-be Robinson Crusoes are a five-minute boat hop away. My verdict: 5/10 40. Leros 'A barren place with curious attractions' Size: 28.6 square miles Population: 7,992 Beach holidays are not really a reason to visit this barren isle, once home of a notorious psychiatric hospital dubbed 'Europe's guilty secret' and still littered with architectural projects built on the orders of Mussolini, part of his attempts to Italianise the Dodecanese. Fans of curious historic attractions will be fascinated, however. My verdict: 3/10 39. Sifnos 'Foodie delights abound' Size: 28.6 square miles Population: 2,777 From white cheese matured in wine lees to marzipan sweet amygdalota, foodie delights abound on this Cyclades island where chef Nicholas Tselementes wrote Greece's first cookbook in 1910. Some of the region's loveliest dusky sand beaches are the icing on the cake. My verdict: 5/10 38. Serifos 'Sandy Psili Ammos beach regularly wins awards' Population: 1,241 The vivid contrast between rocky, arid landscapes riddled with mining tunnels, Cyclades-style blue-trimmed houses and long scoops of sandy beach (Psili Ammos regularly wins awards) lends plenty of charm to Serifos. Having some of Greece's best seafood tavernas doesn't hurt, either. My verdict: 6/10 37. Mykonos 'Avoid it in high season' Size: 33 square miles Population: 10,704 With the celebrity-loved clubs of Psarou and Super Paradise Beach, and the designer shops of pretty Chora, also known for its windmills, the glitziest Cyclades island needs little introduction. Given the shocking prices and elbow-to-elbow overcrowding, however, there are plenty of reasons to avoid it, especially in high season. My verdict: 3/10 36. Aegina 'Lively nightlife and a sprinkling of archaeological sites' Population: 12,911 An hour's ferry ride from Piraeus, the island where Nikos Kazantzakis wrote Zorba the Greek is also well known for its nightlife. Although there is a sprinkling of archaeological sites to add cultural appeal, its beaches aren't the best. My verdict: 4/10 35. Santorini 'A poster child for overtourism' Size: 35 square miles Population: 15,480 Magnet for honeymooners and Instagrammers, and poster child for overtourism, Santorini's spectacularly beautiful caldera definitely merits the hype, but its most popular parts get overwhelmingly busy. When you're tired of playing sardines in Fira's narrow streets, however, there is a lesser-seen traditional side to this volcanic island found in villages away from the caldera. My verdict: 4/10 34. Salamis 'Beyond the unattractive main town, there are a few pleasant surprises' Size: 37.1 square miles Population: 37,220 Just a hop from Piraeus port, the largest Greek island in the Saronic Gulf was the site of a naval battle that changed the course of history. It's gone downhill since then. Beyond the unattractive main town, however, there are a few pleasant surprises, including a 4th-century funerary monument and a couple of sandy beaches. My verdict: 2/10 33. Skopelos Size: 37.2 square miles Population: 4,518 Britons might come here for Mamma Mia! tours, but Greeks take the ferry to this lush Sporades island to laze on white-sand beaches and scoff prickly platters of gemistoi achinoi (stuffed sea urchins) and other local treats in its string of traditional tavernas. My verdict: 7/10 32. Kythnos 'Dusty trails lead to snowdrop-white chapels' Size: 38.7 square miles Population: 1,568 Expect mainly Greeks on this rugged island, a short ferry hop from Athens, whose unsung charms include blue-trim houses set against a backdrop of arid land stitched together by drystone walls, where dusty trails lead to snowdrop-white chapels (one for every day of the year, apparently). My verdict: 4/10 31. Syros 'The unsung queen of The Cyclades' Size: 39.3 square miles Population: 21,124 Dominated by its two picturesque main towns – Ermoupoli and Ano Syros – perched upon separate hilltops, this is the unsung queen of The Cyclades. Highlights include a wealth of tavernas serving succulent local specialities, friendly locals, lovely beaches – and even its very own opera house. My verdict: 9/10 30. Ios 'This party island now attracts a more sophisticated crowd' Size: 42.1 square miles Population: 2,299 Dogged by its party-island reputation for decades, new hotels like Calilo and Liostasi, overlooking the blond-sand beaches for which this Cyclades island is famed, are attracting a more sophisticated crowd. Main town Chora is still best avoided on Saturday nights, however. My verdict: 5/10 29. Astypaleia 'A contender for Greece's most peaceful island' Population: 1,376 It's known as the 'butterfly island' because of its central peninsula separating two 'wings' of land – one with near-empty beaches and the other home to the windmill-studded Chora, the island's only village. With a fleet of electric vehicles to get around, Astypalea is a contender for Greece's most peaceful island. My verdict: 6/10 28. Ithaca 'It's a real odyssey just to get there' Size: 45.5 square miles Population: 2,862 With no direct flights it's a real odyssey just to get to this Ionian island, once a favourite haunt of Aristotle Onassis and Jackie O, where legend says Odysseus was born. Highlights that make the trip worthwhile include the intense blue waters of Kioni's fjord-like bay. My verdict: 5/10 27. Amorgos 'It has retained most of its charm' Size: 48.8 square miles Population: 1,961 Despite the free-diving opus The Big Blue being filmed here back in the Eighties, Amorgos has managed to maintain most of its original charm, possibly because most of its main sights, including the lofty 10th-century Panagia Hozoviotissa monastery, and Lagada's traditional kafenions, are so hard to reach. My verdict: 6/10 26. Alonissos 'Home to shipwrecks and pristine beaches' Population: 2,804 Pristine beaches and a vast marine reserve, home to a thrilling underwater park with shipwrecks dating back to the 5th century BC, are the main lure for the handful of tourists who make it to this remote island in the Sporades, an hour's boat ride from Skiathos. My verdict: 6 /10 25. Kalymnos 'My favourite lesser-known island' Size: 51.9 square miles Population: 16,411 My favourite 'hidden gem' Greek island? This fascinating sponge diver's isle, where kafenions in the capital Pothia serve unique dishes like xtapodokeftedes (octopus meatballs), and Easter celebrations involve flinging live dynamite from the surrounding mountain peaks, would probably be it. My verdict: 10/10 24. Kea 'Off the mainstream tourist radar – for now' Population: 2,335 Favoured by weekending Athenians and divers who come here to explore shipwrecks in the Kea Underwater Historic Site, this island's forested interiors and car-free capital have flown under mainstream tourist radars. A recently opened outpost of top-notch luxury resort One&Only could change all that. My verdict: 5/10 23. Milos 'A siren call for Instagrammers' Population: 5,302 Striking Sarakíniko beach, surrounded by a lunar landscape of chalk-white volcanic rock, is a siren call for Instagrammers. Out of season, however, you'll have the translucent seas and idyllic beaches of Milos, where the Venus de Milo (now in the Louvre) was discovered, almost to yourself. My verdict: 6/10 22. Samothrace 'Ignored by tourists but loved by Greeks' Size: 68.7 square miles Population: 2,596 Famed for its seawater-drinking goats, whose tender meat is a base for countless dishes, northerly Samothrace's rugged volcanic interior, eerie landscapes and grainy yellow beaches are a turn-off for most tourists – a happy fact for the handful of Greeks who spend summer holidays here. My verdict: 4/10 21. Paros 'The new Mykonos is on the cusp of being overtouristed' Size: 75.8 square miles Population: 14,520 With celebrities flocking to buy villas and influencers bleating about 'the new Mykonos', picture-perfect, windmill-studded Paros (and satellite atoll Antiparos) are on the cusp of being overtouristed. Out of season there are still a few pockets of authenticity – but you'll need to look hard to find them. My verdict: 4/10 20. Skyros 'A hippy vibe floats over the island' Size: 86.1 square miles Population: 2,870 A hippy vibe floats over this island, where pint-sized horses roam freely, yoga centres flourish, and tiny traditional villages – whose tavernas serve island speciality astakomakaronada (lobster spaghetti) – have barely changed since great war poet Rupert Brooke was buried here in 1915. My verdict: 6/10 19. Ikaria 'This place is all about slowing down' Size: 98.6 square miles Population: 8,843 One of only five Blue Zone regions in the world, the island where inhabitants 'forget to die' is all about slowing down: throwing away your watch, taking long siestas, soaking in hot springs and sipping tsipouro in laid-back kafenions are de rigueur if you want to fit in. My verdict: 5/10 18. Kythira 'An adventure lover's paradise' Size: 108 square miles Population: 3,354 Just off the southernmost tip of the Peloponnese peninsula, this hard-to-reach island is an adventure lover's paradise where swimming in gushing waterfalls, hiking to idyllic pristine coves and exploring half-abandoned frescoed chapels is a constant leitmotif. My verdict: 5/10 17. Kos 'The perfect all-rounder' Population: 37,089 Families love Kos, and it's easy to see why. This Dodecanese island, where the father of modern medicine Hippocrates was born, has nightlife for teens, silky beaches for toddlers, and archaeological sites and family-run wineries for mum and dad – definitely the perfect all-rounder. My verdict: 6/10 16. Tinos 'Expect magnificent scenery' Size: 120 square miles Population: 8,934 Expect magnificent scenery and a string of lost-in-the-past villages on this mountainous Cycladic island, whose roads wind up through bizarre rock-studded landscapes. Sculptors have chipped away at the local translucent marble since antiquity – even the main church of Panagía Evangelístria, a major site of pilgrimage, is made of it. My verdict: 7/10 15. Karpathos 'Go soon, before it's ruined' Size: 125.4 square miles Population: 6,567 Greeks have flocked to this faraway Dodecanese atoll for decades, but tourists are only just starting to discover Karpathos' pine-covered hillsides, blonde-sand beaches and mysterious mountain villages where women still go about daily life in colourful traditional costume. Go soon, before it's ruined. My verdict: 7/10 14. Lefkada 'Oodles of spectacular beaches' Size: 128.8 square miles Population: 21,900 Linking to the mainland by a causeway, the island where poet Sappho leapt to her death is one of only a handful that can be reached by road. Oodles of spectacular isolated beaches and some excellent fish restaurants make the trip well worthwhile – it's also a popular island for sailing. My verdict: 5/10 13. Andros 'It attracts a bohemian crowd' Size: 150 square miles Population: 8,826 The second largest Cyclades island, and one of the lushest, Andros attracts a bohemian crowd, who come to hike trails leading to beautiful waterfalls and far-flung monasteries, or admire the works in the Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art in cobbled-streeted capital Chora. My verdict: 5/10 12. Thassos 'The most stunning beaches you can find this side of the Caribbean' Size: 150 square miles Population: 13,104 A ferry ride from the Macedonian city of Kavala, this less touristed isle has some of the most stunning white-sand beaches you can find this side of the Caribbean. A generous sprinkling of archaeological sites and alpine-style villages add to the idyll. My verdict: 7/10 11. Zakynthos 'There more to it than the notorious nightlife' Size: 156.6 square miles Population: 41,180 From the pristine beaches of Zakynthos Marine Park, to the labyrinthine streets of the rizochoria 'root villages', there's a lot more to the island dubbed 'flower of the Levante' by Venetians than its over-Instagrammed shipwreck and notorious Laganas nightlife. My verdict: 6/10 10. Naxos 'Authenticity in spades' Size: 170 square miles Population: 20,578 Unlike glitzy sisters Mykonos and Santorini, the Cyclades' largest island, littered with its Easter Island-like kouroi statues, has authenticity in spades. Highlights include four-mile Agios Prokopios, one of Greece's loveliest beaches, along with a string of mountain villages where daily life is blissfully undisturbed by the tourist hordes. My verdict: 9/10 9. Samos 'A spiritual centre' Size: 184 square miles Population: 21,900 One of Greece's most easterly outposts, Samos gets the earliest sunrise, which is fitting for an island that was an important spiritual centre in ancient times. Apart from a clutch of fascinating archaeological sites, having its own airport is also a major boon. My verdict: 6/10 8. Lemnos 'A haven of peace' Size: 184.4 square miles Population: 17,752 A striking blend of sand dunes, pastures and rugged mountainscapes, this volcanic isle, which was a base for the British Empire forces during the Gallipoli campaign, is a haven of peace. Be sure to try the island's syrupy muscat of Alexandria, which is the Mediterranean's oldest wine. My verdict: 5/10 7. Corfu 'A perfect combination of Greekness and Britishness' Size: 235.9 square miles Population: 99,134 Combining just enough 'Britishness' to make it feel familiar (philharmonic orchestra; Prince Philip connections; ginger beer on the menu) with the 'Greekness' of cosy tavernas, plus the sheer charm of its Unesco-listed Old Town, Corfu – known as Kerkyra to Greeks – is cosmopolitan, and a great fit for families My verdict: 8/10 6. Kefalonia 'Untrammelled in the wake of Captain Corelli's Mandolin' Size: 298 square miles Population: 32,642 Thankfully untrammelled in the wake of Captain Corelli's Mandolin, the blockbuster film adaptation of Louis de Bernières' novel, Kefalonia's charm can still be found in forested mountains – home to the wild hare that features in traditional stews – and its dusky-sand beaches loved by rare sea turtles. My verdict: 6/10 5. Chios 'Crams charm into every corner' Size: 325.2 square miles Population: 50,361 From pistacia lentiscus trees that produce the island's unique mastixa gum (try the mastixa ice cream at Pagoto Kronos) to geometric xysta wall decorations in villages like Pyrgi and Olympi and hideaway beaches (including my favourites Didima and Vroulidia), Chios crams charm into every corner. My verdict: 7/10 4. Rhodes 'A magnet for culture vultures' Size: 540.8 square miles Population: 125,113 Home of the Lindos Acropolis and Europe's oldest inhabited medieval city, regal Rhodes is a magnet for culture vultures. A slew of chic beach resorts and glitzy nightlife venues bring the largest of the Dodecanese islands bang up to date. My verdict: 7/10 3. Lesbos 'Beyond the yoga centres, glorious golden beaches abound' Size: 631 square miles Population: 83,755 Birthplace of 7th-century BC poet Sappho, this island just off the coast of Turkey, where punch-packing aniseed spirit ouzo was invented, is a favourite with alternative lifestyle seekers. Beyond the yoga centres, however, glorious golden beaches and traditional tavernas abound. My verdict: 6/10 2. Evia 'Britons are only just cottoning onto its appeal' Size: 1,422 square miles Population: 207,726 A short drive from Athens, Evia is a favourite getaway for Greeks. Bizarrely, Britons are only just cottoning onto the appeal of the country's second-largest island, where forested interiors swoop to meet fine golden-sand beaches, and lost-in-the-past resorts bubble with healing hot springs. My verdict: 7/10 1. Crete 'A dose of everything Greece does best' Population: 624,408 With stunning landscapes, spectacular beaches, world-renowned archaeological sites, one of the world's healthiest diets, and a reputation for philoxenia (welcoming strangers), the Mediterranean's fifth-largest island is a concentrated dose of everything that Greece does best. My verdict: 10/10 Don't agree? Have your say in the comment section below
