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Los Angeles Times
02-05-2025
- Health
- Los Angeles Times
5 Trending Skincare Ingredients You'll See Everywhere This Spring (And Why They Work)
LA Times Studios may earn commission from purchases made through our links. Spring is the season of glow-ups. As the weather softens and your wardrobe shifts from cashmere to cotton, your skin is also ready for a refresh. That winter-induced dullness? It's out. Dehydrated, flaky patches? We're done. The new season calls for ingredients that hydrate, plump, and protect without overwhelming your skin barrier. And if you've been on TikTok or down a beauty subreddit lately, you've probably seen the usual skincare suspects (hi, hyaluronic acid) being joined by some newer faces and a few rebranded favorites. But are these trending skincare ingredients worth the hype? Dr. Daniel Moghadam, Medical Director and founder of Modern Aesthetica, explains the real science behind the buzz. From polyglutamic acid to bakuchiol, here are the five ingredients that deserve a spot in your spring skincare routine. You've heard of hyaluronic acid, but polyglutamic acid is having a major moment this spring, and for good reason. This moisture magnet is being dubbed as hyaluronic acid's bigger, thirstier cousin, and it delivers serious hydration without the heaviness. 'Polyglutamic acid works a lot like topical hyaluronic acid serum,' explains Dr. Moghadam. 'However, the molecules are larger, drawing more water to your skin. It doubles as a soothing agent for irritated skin.' Because of its larger molecular structure, polyglutamic acid doesn't penetrate as deeply as hyaluronic acid. Instead, it forms a moisture-sealing film on the surface, making it a fantastic addition to lightweight spring routines where locking in hydration is key. How to use it: Layer it after your essence or serum and before your moisturizer to boost hydration retention. It's especially good for dry, flaky, or tight skin coming out of winter. Try this: Tula's Ultra Hydration Triple-Hydra Complex because of the encapsulated squalane pearls, which plump the skin while delivering moisture and reducing fine lines. Often referred to as the natural version of hyaluronic acid, snow mushroom is more than just a trendy ingredient with a poetic name. Also known as tremella fuciformis, this fungus has been used in Eastern medicine for centuries, but it's making a major splash in Western beauty circles now. 'Snow mushroom molecules attract water to them and attach to it, allowing better skin hydration,' says Dr. Moghadam. Its particles are smaller than those of hyaluronic acid, so they penetrate the skin more effectively, giving your complexion a deeper, longer-lasting drink. How to use it: Look for snow mushroom in hydrating serums, essences, or lightweight gel moisturizers. It's gentle, soothing and plays well with actives like niacinamide or peptides. Try this: Shikohin's 5 Mushroom Moisturizer that blends Snow Mushroom, Reishi, Wood Ear, Maitake, and Chaga to hydrate and energize the skin. Azelaic acid may not be as buzzy as its trendier cousins, but it's one of the most dermatologist-loved actives for good reason. Derived from grains like barley and wheat, it has a unique ability to target multiple skin concerns without irritation. 'It's great for neutralizing free radicals and evening skin tone,' says Dr. Moghadam. 'One of my favorites. Great for dark spots, and works amazingly in conjunction with retinol, but needs to be introduced slowly.' It also has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it ideal for acne-prone or rosacea-prone skin types. How to use it: Start with lower concentrations (around 10%) a few times a week and build up. It layers well with retinol or bakuchiol, but always monitor for sensitivity. Try this: Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10% because it's also formulated with niacinamide and vitamin C and developed for most skin types, including sensitive skin. If there were a Swiss Army knife of skincare, it would be niacinamide. Also known as vitamin B3, this ingredient does a lot with very little fuss. Brightening? Check. Soothing? Absolutely. Barrier repair? Yes, please. 'Niacinamide helps restore the skin barrier, which can be hurt during the dry winter season,' says Dr. Moghadam. 'It balances skin oils and has been clinically shown to help correct dark spots. It's also a strong anti-inflammatory that can benefit problematic skin.' How to use it: You can layer niacinamide with almost any ingredient, making it a versatile addition to any routine. Use it day or night to help even tone, minimize pores, and calm redness. Try this: Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment Retinol may be the gold standard for anti-aging, but it can also be irritating, especially for sensitive skin or those navigating pregnancy. Enter bakuchiol, a plant-based alternative that offers many of the same benefits without the redness, peeling, or photosensitivity. 'Bakuchiol is nature's retinol,' says Dr. Moghadam. 'It's milder and suitable for almost all skin types, whereas retinol can be irritating. It's plant-derived, making it relatively safe during pregnancy.' While retinol remains stronger and faster-acting, bakuchiol is a solid option for those looking to ease into anti-aging skincare without irritation. How to use it: Apply it in the evening after cleansing and before moisturizing. Look for formulas that pair it with hydrating agents like squalane or peptides to boost tolerability. Try this: Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Eye Cream or Beauty by Earth's Bakuchiol Serum. As the seasons shift, so should your skincare. Spring is the perfect time to transition into ingredients that support hydration, repair winter damage, and prep your skin for the sunnier months ahead. Whether you're building your routine from scratch or looking to swap in a few new stars, these trending skincare ingredients for spring are science-backed and expert-approved. Focus on ingredients that hydrate, calm, and gently brighten as your skin adjusts to the new season — you don't need a 10-step routine, you just need the right actives. Click here for more information on Modern Aesthetica
Los Angeles Times
19-04-2025
- Health
- Los Angeles Times
Injectable Moisturizers 101: What to Know About the Glow-Boosting Trend
You know the look: lit-from-within, effortlessly dewy, that signature L.A. radiance that somehow survives marine layer mornings and rooftop sunsets. But as we move from cozy winter layers to sun-drenched patios, achieving that glow takes more than a good cleanser. Enter injectable moisturizers: the needle-based hydrators promising to give your skin that filter-free glow from the inside out. But what are they, exactly? Are they fillers? Are they facials? And do they really work? Think of injectable moisturizers as the next evolution in hydration. These treatments deliver microdroplets of hyaluronic acid (the same plumping molecule found in your favorite serums) directly into the deeper layers of your skin. 'One of the newer trends is injectable moisturizers, which are comprised of hyaluronic acid,' says Dr. Danny Moghadam, founder and owner of Modern Aesthetica in Beverly Hills. 'The difference is that traditional fillers are made with cross-linked HA, which makes them firmer and great for shaping. Skin hydrators like Juvederm SkinVive are non-cross-linked, meaning they're more fluid and diffuse evenly through the skin.' In other words: no contouring, just conditioning. Let's break it down. They're also ideal for anyone wary of the 'overfilled' look, or just tired of slathering on products that never seem to penetrate. Coming out of a dry winter? Your skin's probably feeling a little parched. Here are three top options to consider: FDA-approved, designed specifically to improve skin smoothness, hydration, and glow for up to six months. Best for the cheeks. A European favorite is now making waves in California. High HA concentration, which spreads evenly under the skin, stimulates collagen and elastin production. Great for crepey areas like the neck and décolleté. Popular for treating fine lines and dehydration in the face, hands, and even under the eyes. They provide soft, subtle rejuvenation by delivering microdroplets of hyaluronic acid beneath the skin's surface, enhancing hydration and elasticity. Each treatment involves a series of microinjections spaced about a quarter-inch apart — a method that ensures even distribution. Patients often describe the sensation as more of a gentle pinprick facial than anything invasive. The hero ingredient here is hyaluronic acid—a sugar molecule that binds up to 1,000 times its weight in water. Your body makes it naturally, but production dips with age, sun exposure, and environmental stress. Injecting HA bypasses the outer layers of skin and gets straight to where moisture is most needed. Some formulations also include amino acids or antioxidants for extra skin support. According to a 2023 review, HA injectables can significantly improve skin hydration, elasticity, and roughness after just one treatment cycle. Glow, yes. But also smoothness, softness, and a kind of plump bounce-back you can't get from a sheet mask. Dr. Moghadam says most patients start to see visible improvements within a week, with full effects peaking at around 30 days. 'Typically, this effect lasts for six months,' he notes. Maintenance depends on your skin type, lifestyle, and sun habits. Short answer: Yes, for most people. Injectable moisturizers are considered low-risk when performed by a licensed provider. Side effects are usually mild and may include redness, bruising, or small bumps at the injection sites. 'The biggest complications I've seen include the formation of bumps under the skin,' Dr. Moghadam says. 'But these are usually minor and resolve easily.' That said, if you're pregnant, breastfeeding, or prone to certain skin conditions, always consult a doctor before treatment. If Skinvive and Profhilo are the headliners, these lesser-known players are the indie darlings of the injectable world quietly gaining fans among dermatologists and beauty insiders. Combines non-cross-linked HA with amino acids, antioxidants, and vitamins. Best for under-eyes, neck, and dull skin. Often delivered in three-session protocols. A polynucleotide (PN) injectable made from salmon DNA (yes, really). Designed to boost skin repair, reduce inflammation, and improve barrier health. Particularly popular in Korean clinics. Combines hyaluronic acid and PDLLA for dual-action hydration and collagen stimulation. Great for fine lines and large pores. Just now entering select U.S. practices. Uses PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide) instead of HA to repair oxidative stress and improve elasticity. Considered a biological skin revitalizer. If you're looking to hit the reset button on your skin before summer, injectable moisturizers may be worth a spot in your lineup. They won't replace your daily SPF or nighttime retinol, but they can give your skin a hydrated, healthy-looking foundation that lasts beyond your next beach day. Click here for more information on Modern Aesthetica
