27-05-2025
Antonelli
Filippo Antonelli is his estate vineyards, Montefalco, Umbria
There has been something of an engima surrounding Montefalco Sagrantino. A powerful red from central Umbria, made exclusively from the Sagrantino grape, much of the common wisdom with this wine is that is has been too tannic, and lacks the finesse of a Barolo or Brunello di Montalcino.
That thought process has resulted in only moderate sales; it may be a forceful red capable of excellent aging potential, but the wine rarely receives much attention. Maybe it's the fact that it's from Umbria, a beautiful wine region that doesn't receive the publicity it deserves. Or more likely, it's the reality that not enough local producers have realized the promise of this wine. Thankfully, this is changing thanks to a few individuals, most notably Filippo Antonelli at his estate - Antonelli San Marco - in Montefalco, not far from the cities of Assisi and Spoleto.
Antonelli, a native of Rome, whose father's family was from Umbria, first made bottled wines under his own label starting with the 1986 vintage; prior to that, his family bottled wines in demijohns to be sold in Rome. His estate today is respected as one of the true leaders of the Montefalco area, primarily for Montefalco Sagrantino, produced exclusively with the Sagrantino grape, but also Montefalco Rosso, made primarily with Sangiovese with smaller amounts of Sagrantino. Additionally, Antonelli also produces excellent white wines, both from Grechetto and Trebbiano Spoletino; this last variety being one many Montefalco producers are counting on as an important part of their viticultural success.
Sagrantino is a very tannic variety, and if not treated properly, the resulting wines can be rough and bitter, with little charm; note that a Montefalco Sagrantino wine must be produced solely from Sagrantino. So what steps have the area's producers taken to soften the tannic sensation and make better wines? For Antonelli, the answer is twofold: replanting older vineyards as well as using larger wood containers for aging.
Vineyards at the Antonelli San Marco estate, Montefalco, Umbria
'Sagrantino is very sensitive to an illness that kills the vine,' remarks Antonelli. 'So it happens that they die after 30 years. Throughout the area, there are no more extremely old vineyards.' To that end, there has been a great deal of planting new Sagrantino in the area's vineyards over the past two decades.
Continuing, Antonelli explains, 'also fewer producers today use barrique as compared to the past. In the '80s and '90s. there were very few using large barrels; Adanti, us, maybe Paolo Bea. But it was mostly barrique like Caprai or Colpretone. Still there are producers that use only barrique, but more and more producers today use large barrels.' The thinking here is that smaller barrels can add tannins, not necessarily a good thing for such a tannic variety.
Success for Antonelli with Montefalco Sagrantino goes hand in hand with constant research and experimentation. 'To me, we still have room for improvement with the quality of Sagrantino because there are plenty of places that are fantastic to plant Sagrantino, but nobody outside the area knows about them.'
Filippo Antonelli is a producer who strives not only for excellence with all wines, but elegance as well, and when Montefalco Sagrantino can finally be described as a wine of harmony and finesse, that's great news for everyone.
Notes on current releases from Antonelli San Marco:
Trebbiano Spoletino Spumante - As Trebbiano Spoletino has high acidity, it is an ideal candidate for sparkling wine; this version from Antonelli is a metodo classico and is pas dosé, meaning it received zero dosage; the grapes are from the 2021 vintage and were aged for 24 months on the lees. Offering aromas of lemon peel, yellow poppy and a hint of allspice, this is medium-bodied, has very good persistence and a clean finish. Enjoy over the next two to four years. (90)
Montefalco Grechetto 2024 - Before the recent introduction of Trebbiano Spoletino among Montefalco producers, Grechetto was the primary white wine of this area. Antonelli has been producing a notable version for years; this 2024 is another first-rate example. Medium-bodied, this is a delightful wine with appealing aromas of Bosc pear, quince and almond. This is fresh, well-balanced and has good persistence, with a subtle note of spearmint in the finish. Suited for a wide variety of foods (chicken salad, lighter seafood, vegetarian dishes), enjoy over the next three to five years. (91)
Trebbiano Spoletino Vigna Tonda 2023 - Unlike Antonelli's Grechetto that is vinfied in stainless steel, this is fermented with skin contact in amphora, giving the wine a medium-deep golden yellow color. Expressive aromas of fusel oil, spiced Anjou pear, honey and dried apricot. Medium-full, with good acidity, excellent complexity and notes of beeswax in the finish. Enjoy with strongly flavored seafood over the next four to seven years. (91)
Montefalco Rosso 2022 - A blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino and 15% Montepulciano. Aromas of more cherry, currant, thyme and allspice. Medium-bodied with very good ripeness, moderate tannins and good acidity, this is well-balanced and would be a fine accompaniment to chicken in red wine as well as most red meats. Enjoy over the next three to six years. (90)
Montefalco Sagrantino 2020 - Aromas of morel cherry, thyme, a hint of tobacco and geranium. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. Excellent harmony and complexity; this 2020 version from Antonelli, while quite rich, is not as powerful as some recent vintages, so this would be recommended for those who want to get to know this wine. Especially good with pork or game, enjoy this over the next six to ten years. (92)
Montefalco Sagrantino Chiusa di Pannone 2019 - Initially produced from the 2003 vintage, this was the first single vineyard Montefalco Sagrantino produced. Aromas of morel cherry, currant, red plum, a hint of molasses and Oriental spice. Very good to excellent concentration with a rich mid-palate. Medium-full, well-balanced tannins, very good acidity. Enjoy over the next eight to twelve years - perhaps longer. (93)
Montefalco Sagrantino Passito 2021 - For centuries, Montefalco Sagrantino was always a sweet wine, made as a passito (the grapes are dried on crates, bamboo racks or under the sun); Antonelli continues to produce this wine today, which is arguably the best of its kind. Appealing aromas of black cherry, licorice, tar and molasses. Medium-full, there is a lightly sweet finish with balancing acidity. This is an ideal match for chocolate! Enjoy over the next 8-12 years. (94)
Antica Torino Vermouth di Torino Rosso - Over the past decade, some of Italy's finest producers have begun to produce their own version of the classic Vermouths of Torino in the Piedmont region. This is a new project for Antonelli and judging by this example, it is another inspired success for the producer. Made with 13 botanicals, including rosemary, thyme, cumin and ginger, this is very flavorful with great complexity and elegance, along with a clean, well rounded finish. Enjoy over the next five to seven years, a little at a time. (93)
