14-03-2025
WNC's hidden gem: sprawling rainforest of waterfalls is among most biodiverse in NC
In October 2012, a kaleidoscope of monarch butterflies flew over the brand-new Gorges State Park Visitor Center, where then-superintendent Steven Pagano and Park Ranger Kevin Bischof were moving in supplies from a strip mall down the road.
Fewer than 15 years before, this sprawling Appalachian temperate rainforest near the South Carolina border — home to a third of Western North Carolina's rare or endangered species — was set to be developed for its natural resources by Duke Energy, its rivers and waterfalls funneled through a vast network of hydroelectric plants, Pagano said.
Facing opposition from the community and controversy over some of the projects, Duke decided to sell the property to protect the watershed. North Carolina State Parks stepped in, purchasing the land in April of 1999, according to Pagano.
At the southern edge of the Blue Ridge Escarpment, moisture drifting up from the Gulf of Mexico falls on the 8,000-acre temperate rainforest, bringing roughly 90 inches of rain a year to feed four landmark rivers: the Tompson, Toxaway, Horsepasture and Whitewater, Bischof explained. Mist from must-see cascades like the Whitewater, Rainbow, Turtleback and Windy waterfalls create a microclimate haven for rare species. Among the unique landscape, a fern typically found in Asia grows within the forest's interior.
"They don't show up anywhere else in the country, only in Asia, which is quite amazing," Pagano said, his love for the park evident in his voice.
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As the park's first-ever superintendent, all Pagano had to work with was "a piece of paper with a survey on it" and an electric pencil sharpener, he said. Most of his 19 years as superintendent was spent with development plans and building, growing the park into the recreational oasis it is today.
Baring a name referring to the deep gorges created by the area's rivers, Gorges State Park features some rough terrain, making it difficult to build trails to the park's more remote waterfalls.
Pagano, who is now the president of the Friends of Gorges, had hoped to build more trails in the park and is now talking with staff about how the nonprofit can help with trail construction and maintenance. The park currently features 56 miles of hiking trails.
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Standing on the porch in 2012, watching the monarchs flutter over the land, Pagano and Bischof realized the park rests along the butterfly's migratory route. A seed of an idea was planted: a festival celebrating the butterflies.
After stints as superintendent at Mount Mitchell and Grandfather Mountain state parks, Bischof came back to Gorges as superintendent in 2021 and floated the idea of changing the park's annual fall celebration into what is now the Mountain Monarch Festival.
The festivity is held each year during the monarch's migration in late September to the high elevation fir forests of Mexico's Neovolcanic Mountains. The event is meant to bring attention to the endangered species' declining numbers. The day features crafts, food trucks, educational programming and vendors.
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The park, located in Transylvania County about an hour and 15 minutes southwest of Asheville, is built to fit a wide array of outdoor recreational needs, from rugged backcountry camping, to RV stays and camper cabins. Many families come with children and grandparents to camp overnight by using all three options from primitive to comfortable, Bischof pointed out.
Park visitation has steadily increased over the past couple of years, jumping from about 180,000 in 2022 to 203,000 in 2023 — the first year the park surpassed 200,000 visitors, according to Bischof. Before Tropical Storm Helene hit, the park was on pace to beat that record but fell to 192,000 due to the park being closed during its busiest month in October. The park reopened in November after fixing some damage to the trails.
In a short 30-minute hike on Bearwallow Falls Trail, visitors can see Upper Bearwallow Falls — a tumbling river sliding down an angled rock outcrop amid the trees. The popular Rainbow and Turtleback falls are also nearby. Though the trailhead is on state park land, hikers pass onto U.S. Forest Service property during the strenuous 1.5 miles one way to Rainbow Falls, Bischof said.
A smaller waterfall called Ted's Falls can be found along the Auger Hole Trail, a 7.2-mile strenuous path that can be hiked, biked or ridden on horseback.
Though beautiful, waterfalls can be deadly if visitors don't follow safety precautions. People may be tempted in the summer by low water levels to wade across the river, but moss-covered rocks are slippery and may prove disastrous. Bischof issued a reminder that state parks do not allow swimming in undesignated areas, including waterfalls. Never hike, walk or swim near the top of a waterfall.
Park officials ask visitors please to stay on designated trails and hiking areas since many rare, vulnerable plants live on thin soils and wet rocks.
Additional details on hiking trails can be found at:
The park also features numerous areas to fish, picnic, bike on 17 miles of trail, or go for a 12-mile horseback ride.
There are no fees to access Gorges State Park for day use, only for camping, certain event permits and facility reservations. Pets are also allowed in the park and at campsites but must be leashed and are not allowed in the buildings.
More information on the park can be found at:
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Ryley Ober is the Public Safety Reporter for Asheville Citizen Times, part of the USA Today Network. Email her at rober@ and follow her on Twitter @ryleyober
This article originally appeared on Asheville Citizen Times: Gorges State Park is a hidden gem among WNC mountains