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Telegraph
03-04-2025
- General
- Telegraph
Sweet-savoury sausage and aubergine ragu with cheesy polenta
This is gorgeous, with little bursts of sweetness from the raisins (use those tiny Corinth raisins, or currants, if you can – Ocado has them). You can also serve it with cheesy mash – it doesn't matter that mash isn't Italian! – or potato gnocchi or pasta. Which you use depends on how cold it is. You can add more cheese to the polenta, a Gruyère- or fontina-type one that is stretchy when melted. Getting the ragu ready on a Thursday night is ideal here; you get to have an easier time on Friday and the ragu tastes better after a night in the fridge. Ingredients For the ragu 400g spicy Italian sausages (I use M&S ones from Calabria) 25ml olive oil, plus extra as you need it, for frying 2 very large aubergines (or 3 medium ones), cut into cubes 1 large onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, grated to a purée ½ tsp ground allspice ½ tsp ground fennel seeds ¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg 1 x 400g tin finely chopped tomatoes (I use Mutti Polpa) leaves from 4 sprigs of thyme 1½ tbsp cider vinegar 1½ tbsp sugar 30g raisins 30g pine nuts, toasted For the polenta 500ml chicken stock 350ml full-fat milk 75g butter 200g quick-cook polenta 150g gruyère, grated 15g parmesan, grated, plus extra to serve Method Step Remove 400g spicy Italian sausages from casings and roll it into roughly shaped balls. Heat 25ml olive oil in a large pan and fry over a medium heat until golden, about 7-8 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Step Add 2 aubergines to the fat in the pan and cook them in 2 batches, for about 5-6 minutes, adding more oil if you need to. Remove them and put with the sausages. Step Add more oil if you need, then cook 1 onion in the same pan for about 10 minutes, until softening and getting a good colour. Add 2 garlic cloves, ½ tsp ground allspice, ½ tsp ground fennel seeds and ¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg and cook for a further 2 minutes. Stir in 1 tin of tomatoes, leaves from 4 sprigs of thyme, 1½ tbsp vinegar, 1½ tbsp sugar, 300ml of water and 30g of raisins. Season. Step Bring the mixture to the boil and return sausages and aubergines to the pan. Turn the heat down to low and let the ragu simmer for about 20-30 minutes. Add 30g of toasted pine nuts last and check the seasoning. This is even better when left in the fridge for a day. Step For the polenta, put 500ml chicken stock, 350ml of full-fat milk, 100ml of water and ½ of the butter in a medium-sized saucepan along with some seasoning. Bring to a gentle simmer and add 200g of polenta in a slow, steady stream, stirring all the time. Keep stirring or whisking until the mixture is smooth and amalgamated. Step Whisk for another 3 minutes – it should still be quite loose – and add 150g of gruyère, 15g of parmesan and ½ of the butter. Check the seasoning. Spoon on to plates and top with some ragu. Provide more cheese to sprinkle on top.
Telegraph
14-03-2025
- General
- Telegraph
Simple fish stew
This is such a simple recipe, despite the length of the ingredients list. I started cooking it years ago (the original recipe is from The Carved Angel Cookery Book by Joyce Molyneux) when I wanted to make bouillabaisse and found this instead. It's like a bourride – a French fish stew enriched with aioli. There's a lot more fish here than in Joyce's version. You need the aioli but the rouille is optional, though the contrast is great. Overview Prep time 25 mins Cook time 30 mins Serves 4 Ingredients For the aioli 1 large egg yolk ¼ tsp Dijon mustard 140ml groundnut or sunflower oil 60ml olive oil (not extra-virgin) 2 garlic cloves, grated to a purée lemon juice, to taste white wine vinegar (optional) For the rouille 1 garlic clove, grated to a purée ½ roasted red pepper 1 egg yolk 2 tsp harissa small pinch saffron threads 85ml olive oil 85ml groundnut or sunflower oil 1 tsp lemon juice (or more to taste) For the fish stew ½ fennel bulb about 8 parsley stalks, plus leaves to serve 4 thyme sprigs 3 dill sprigs 4 tbsp olive oil 1 small onion, finely chopped 1 celery stick, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes (I use Mutti Polpa) 185ml dry white vermouth (or dry white wine) ½ tsp saffron threads 500ml fish stock 2 tsp lemon juice 345g smoked haddock fillet, skin removed (or you can use half as much smoked haddock and another white fish for the rest) 1 baguette, sliced and toasted, to serve Parmesan or Gruyère, grated, to serve Method Step Start with the aioli. The stew comes together quickly so the aioli should be ready. Put 1 large egg yolk in a large bowl and stir in ¼ tsp Dijon mustard with a pinch of salt. Start to add the oils (140ml groundnut or sunflower oil, and 60ml olive oil) a drop at a time, beating all the time using electric beaters. Once the mixture starts to thicken you can add more oil in one go. Step Add 2 grated garlic cloves and, once all the oil has been incorporated, lemon juice to taste. Seasoning is very important so you might want to adjust it. Sometimes I add a little white wine vinegar, too. Step For the rouille – if you choose to make it – put 1 grated garlic clove, ½ roasted red pepper, 1 egg yolk, 2 tsp harissa, a small pinch saffron threads and some seasoning into a food processor. Whizz, adding the oils (85ml olive oil and 85ml groundnut or sunflower oil) a little at a time, then season again and add 1 tsp lemon juice. Step Cut 1 fennel bulb in half. Remove the outer discoloured layer and the hard core at the base. Discard these and chop the flesh finely. Using kitchen string, tie 8 parsley stalks, 4 thyme sprigs and 3 dill sprigs together. Step Add 345g smoked haddock fillets and simmer gently for about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat, lift out the pieces of fish using a slotted spoon and set aside. Step Serve with 1 sliced and toasted baguette, the rest of the aioli, the rouille (if you've made it), grated Parmesan or Gruyère, and some parsley leaves.
Telegraph
27-02-2025
- General
- Telegraph
Crespelle stuffed with spinach, leeks and ricotta
I'm not going to lie – this dish takes effort and time, but my God, it's worth it. I'd sooner have this than baked cannelloni. Crespelle are mostly found in Tuscany and perform the role of pasta here but they're much lighter. Make the filling one day and the batter the next. They can easily be assembled on the third day. The pancakes are – more or less – Marcella Hazan's recipe, and the filling is just made up but this is a classic of Italian cooking. I've had leek, ricotta and smoked salmon 'Italian' pancakes in Dublin. Feel free to riff. Overview Prep time 30 mins Cook time 1 hr 25 mins Serves 6 Ingredients For the filling 2 medium leeks 1 tbsp olive oil 10g butter 500g ricotta cheese 500g spinach leaves, washed and sorted 45g Parmesan, grated 2 garlic cloves, grated to a purée 1 large egg grated nutmeg For the crespelle 375ml whole milk 4 large eggs ½ tsp salt 125g plain flour 10g butter, melted and cooled olive oil, as needed 30g Parmesan, grated For the tomato sauce 1½ tbsp olive oil 1 onion, very finely chopped 1 garlic clove, grated to a purée 400g tin chopped tomatoes (I use Mutti Polpa) 200g passata 1 tsp sugar (optional) 300ml double cream Method Step Trim 2 medium leeks at the top and the base and get rid of the outer couple of layers. Cut into fine slices and wash them well in a sieve. Heat 1 tbsp olive oil and 10g butter in a frying pan and cook the leeks over a medium heat. Season and continue to cook until the leeks are soft. Leave to cool. Step To make the pancakes, whisk together 375ml whole milk, 4 large eggs and ½ tsp salt until well combined. Put the flour in a bowl, make a well in the middle and add the eggs and milk, a little at a time, whisking constantly until the batter is smooth. Whisk in the melted butter, then cover and place in the fridge for at least 1 hour. Step Give the batter a quick stir to mix. Heat a few drops of olive oil in a non-stick frying pan 22-25cm across. When it's hot and the oil has spread out, pour the excess oil into a heatproof bowl. Pour a ladleful of batter into the pan and immediately tilt it in a circular motion so that the batter spreads out in an even layer. Cook the pancake for about 2 minutes until the edges become golden brown and the underside is golden. Flip it over using a palette knife and cook until the other side is fully set and golden (about 30 seconds more). Step Transfer each pancake to a large plate, laying a piece of baking parchment on top. Repeat with the remaining batter, adding more oil to the pan as you need to, but never too much. Put a square of baking parchment between each pancake. You should have 10. If you do them ahead of time, cover the plate with cling film and keep in the fridge. Step Continue with the filling by putting 500g spinach leaves (washed and sorted) in a large saucepan, add 2 tbsp water, cover and turn the heat down to low. Cook for about 6 minutes, turning the spinach over from time to time until it's completely wilted. Drain, spread it out on a plate and leave to cool. Step Once the spinach is cool enough to handle, squeeze out all the excess liquid (you can do it with your hands or press it between 2 dinner plates). Chop the spinach and place in a bowl with the cooked leeks, drained ricotta cheese, 45g grated Parmesan, 2 garlic cloves (grated to a purée), 1 large egg and grated nutmeg, then season. Mix with a fork until everything is well combined. Step Now make the tomato sauce. Heat 1½ tbsp olive oil in a saucepan and add 1 very finely chopped onion. Cook over a medium to low heat until the onion is soft. Add 1 garlic clove (grated to a purée) and cook for another minute, then add 400g tinned tomatoes and 200g passata. Season and add 1 tsp sugar if you think it needs it. Step Bring to the boil then turn the heat down and simmer for 15 minutes, then add 300ml double cream and simmer for another 10-15 minutes. If the mixture is too thick, add some water; if it's too thin, simmer gently until it's the thickness you want. Taste for seasoning. You can purée this to make it smooth but I like the texture as it is. Step Preheat the oven to 220C/210C fan/gas mark 7. To assemble the dish, spread half the tomato sauce across the bottom of a 22-23cm x 33cm ovenproof dish. Put some of the filling in a line across each pancake, folding in each side like a letter. Arrange the filled pancakes in the prepared dish – roughly 6 on the bottom and 4 on top. Pour the remaining tomato sauce over the top then sprinkle on 30g Parmesan. Step Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the heat to 190C/180C fan/gas mark 5 and bake until the crespelle are golden brown and bubbling all over. Leave for 10 minutes to rest and cool a little before serving.
