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Business Post
16-05-2025
- Business
- Business Post
101 Great Irish Restaurants: Head for Leinster's best culinary addresses
The 2025 edition of 101 Great Irish Restaurants, produced in partnership with Nespresso Professional, showcases the depth and breadth of Ireland's food scene, from casual bistros to Michelin-starred fine dining restaurants. Here are the venues in Leinster that made the cut this year. The cash-rich, discerning people of Greystones were bizarrely lacking in a restaurant offering good fish and seafood until the arrival of the Harbour Kitchen, which is housed upstairs from the Beach House pub. Now they can choose from dishes like crab with dressed celery and wasabi buttermilk, moules mariniere with chips and sourdough that is an utter bargain at €19.50, and wild halibut with house-made gnocchi. Owner Sheerin Wilde and his young, enthusiastic team offer superb service, while chef Jaco Pretorius, who you might have know of old from La Maison on Castle Market in Dublin 2, cooks up food that is precise, unfussy and bursting with flavour. The gods were certainly smiling on the owners of Carton House when Adam Nevin, a wildly talented young chef from nearby Maynooth, was persuaded to return home from London and take the reins at what must easily be one of the most beautiful dining rooms on this island. Awarded a Michelin star in February, a return visit in April confirmed Nevin's status as a serious talent, with at least two dishes - scallops with preserved truffle and salami, and a strawberry, lime and olive oil pre-dessert - easily at two star level. Expect exciting things in this kitchen over the next few years courtesty of Nevin, who is still only 30, and his team. Bearu, New Ross, Co Wexford, This hard working little gem of a restaurant run by husband and wife Dave Rowley and Siobhán Ward lures the punters in with delicious breakfasts, lunches and afternoon cake breaks, with stunning bakes from Claire Griffin, and stays open for dinner too on Friday and Saturday nights. The concise, seasonally-led menu has three choices of starter and main, and two for dessert. It changes very regularly, which is great for local customers, and draws on Rowley's extensive repertoire of classics. Fish is always a good choice, being so close to the busy south east fishing ports, and a recent dish of pan-roasted cod, with chicken velouté, wild garlic and celeriac was a standout. Leave room for desserts, which are outstanding without being overly fussy. From this month, newly-sanctioned daytime outdoor seating will be a big draw here. Thyme, Athlone, Co Westmeath, To scroll through Thyme's Instagram feed is to almost guarantee that soon - very soon - you will get in your car and drive to Athlone to eat the food there. If you're visiting in game season, you might get to eat Sika deer with red cabbage and kohlrabi; in spring, a rhubarb and stem ginger baked Alaska. Chef John Coffey, who runs Thyme with his wife Tara, is not only a wonderful chef, but a generous mentor to the young cooks who come through his kitchen, and a champion some wonderful Irish food suppliers. Chakra by Jaipur, Greystones, Co Wicklow, One of the pioneers of Indian fine dining in Ireland, Asheesh Dewan is the man behind this bright, airy restaurant in the Meridian Point centre in Greystones. The room was always an attractive one, but a post-Covid makeover that included the addition of new booths and a bar, as well as a serious upgrade to the cocktail offering, only enhanced its appeal. Everything is good here, but some particular favourites include chef Santosh's Nepalese chicken, the Himalayan venison - it'll put hairs on your chest - and the Goan prawn curry. Vegetarians and vegans will be spoiled for choice, and the presentation of the dishes is among the most elegant you will see anywhere. Campagne, Kilkenny city, No one does the classics like Gareth Byrne. Confit of suckling pig with black pudding and choucroute, Paris-Brest with hazelnut butter cream and lemon curd - his menu is a temptation-packed delight. Opened in 2008 and awarded a Michelin star in 2013, this Kilkenny city gem is run by Byrne and his partner Brid Hannon, and has built up an incredibly loyal customer base. Don't live locally? Not a problem. Campagne is only a few minutes walk from the train station. The Sea Rooms at Kelly's, Rosslare, Co Wexford, It's hard to know where to look when you sit down to dinner in this stunning, elevated glass box structure with its unobstructed views of the magnificent manicured gardens and outdoor art installations at Kelly's Resort Hotel and the Irish sea beyond. As you enter, take note of the custom built Smokin' Soul grill; this beast is the beating heart of the restaurant, bringing the fire and smoke that subtly permeate head chef Chris Fullam's menu. The Dubliner is going into his third season here and he brings an interesting, sophisticated take on modern dining, capitalising on the hotel's vegetable garden, proximity to the sea and the lush Wexford grazing pastures. Demonstrating his versatility, Fullam offers both vegetarian and vegan versions of his seven-course menu. On the core menu, available as either seven courses or three, you might find dishes such as barbecued halibut with white asparagus, garden peas, pesto and vin jaune. Square, Dundalk, Co Louth, Conor Halpenny's Square was always worth a vist - a Business Post review late last year described the cooking there as 'quietly brilliant' - but a recently-completed renovation makes it even more of a draw. What to eat? The fried corn ribs are a joy whether you're veggie or not, while the Square KFC - available as either a starter or a main - will make you wonder why you ever crossed the door of a certain chain of fast food chicken restaurants. The drinks selection is superb across the board, too. The Dining Room at Ballyfin Demesne, Ballyfin, Co Laois, One of three Irish restaurants to win Michelin stars for the first time in February - the Morrison Room at Carton House, and Lignum in Galway being the other two - the dining room at Ballyfin Demesne makes the most of the estate's incredible kitchen garden. You might presume that somewhere this grand would only offer a tasting menu, but there's an a la carte too, with full vegetarian versions of both also available, something that remains incredibly rare in Ireland. The setting, as you'll know if you've visited, is jaw-droppingly gorgeous, but the service is wonderfully warm too. Alumni Kitchen Table, Rathangan, Co Kildare, For three nights each week, chef Philip Mahon and his sommelier wife Kathy open their home and business to a maximum of eight guests, seated at a communal table in their kitchen dining room, or at the prep counter, right in the middle of the action. They call it an 'immersive culinary experience with food, wine and hospitality in mind', and it really is something quite unique. Every morsel, from the snacks that open your meal to the handmade chocolates that bring it to a delicious close, is made in-house by Philip, who brings his Michelin experience to dishes such as Union Hall lobster, spiced tomato ketchup, burnt cream and tarragon emulsion. Most diners stay overnight in one of the four bedrooms available to guests. The Lady Helen at Mount Juliet, Thomastown, Co Kilkenny, This grand dame benefits from having one of the most exquisite dining rooms in the country, with views over the immaculate gardens to the river Nore beyond. Michelin has bestowed a star on the restaurant for the past 12 years, and for eight of those chef John Kelly has headed the kitchen. He says he brings his personality, his locality and his travels to his cooking, as demonstrated by a dish of Tipperary organic veal, baby leek, black truffle, aged Comté cheese. He also has an extensive on-site larder to capitalise on, so you'll find estate herbs and 'salad cream' paired with asparagus, and Mount Juliet honey in a dessert with Waterford whiskey and orange. This year, chef Kelly and sommelier Jean-Baptiste Renault have introduced an elevated prestige wine pairing to sit alongside the fine wine pairing offered with the tasting menu. Keep your phone camera ready, if that's your thing, for the arrival of the custom made petits fours trolley. The Coach House, Roundwood, Co Wicklow, This is the kind of place where you'd be happy to get snowed in - in fact, you might actually pray for it. It's an impossibly cosy spot in the tiny Wicklow village of Roundwood where you'll find dishes like free range chicken schitznel and Wicklow venison pie, as well as rooms on-site with comfy beds that you can flop into after eating. Simon Pratt and Monique McQuaid are at the helm of this complex, which also includes Roundwood Stores, the much-adored cafe. Apparently, Billie Eilish once popped in to eat in the Coach House, and if it's good enough for a musical icon, it's good enough for us. Bramley, Abbeyleix, Co Laois, Where would we be without family-run, small hospitality businesses like Bramley? Run by husband and wife Sam and Emily Moody, it offers lunch and dinner dishes that are simply, but deliciously executed. Dinner might include organic free-range pork with home made gnocchi, or venison with turnip and a spiced date puree. For dessert, you'll find it hard to resist the hot chocolate soufflé with white chocolate ice cream - you're only human, after all - but there are also lighter options like strawberries with mint, lime and elderflower ice.
Business Post
16-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Business Post
101 Great Irish Restaurants - The capital choices in Dublin
The 2025 edition of 101 Great Irish Restaurants, produced in partnership with Nespresso Professional, showcases the depth and breadth of Ireland's food scene, from casual bistros to Michelin-starred fine dining restaurants. Here are the venues in the capital that made the cut this year. La Gordita, Montague Street, Vanessa Murphy and Anna Cabrera's La Gordita is an elegant Spanish bodega serving the kind of simple yet explosively delicious food that would quickly make you forget that you're within spitting distance of Camden Street. For familiar flavours, you'll find much loved classics like croquettas and jamon Iberico, but dive deeper into the menu and you'll find true delight. The anchoas de Santona - fat, glistening anchovies with Valdeón blue cheese - will leave you breathless and smiling, while the morcilla de Burgos, served with caramelised piquillo peppers, is a bloody treat for the ages. Top the whole experience with the world class service that the Hermanas Lola family are known for, and it's easy to love this little fat one. Big nights out don't come much better ones that involve a table at this stylish steakhouse in the lavishly restored former home of the National Bank. The best seats in the house are the see-and-be-seen leather upholstered booths at the back of this glorious space, but there really isn't a bad table here. Start with a cocktail in the bar; these guys really know their shaken from their stirred, and the martinis are among the best in the city. The Hawksmoor team go to great lengths to source their beef, always ensuring that it is ethically produced, and properly aged. Constant innovation brings fun additions to the menu, such as the current Big Matt Burger, and the much missed Tayto ham and cheese toastie bar snack. The early dinner special (5pm-6pm), three courses for €36, is a good way to dip in, and if it's a Monday, a €5 corkage offer offer also applies. Achara, Aston Quay, Northern Thai food grilled over charcoal finally made it to Dublin last summer, landing on busy Aston Quay, where a custom-designed Smokin' Soul rig is doing its bit to bring fire and smoke to the table. It is a happy coincidence that Achara is located in the building next to the former USIT offices, where generations of students planned their escapes to far flung places, and where another generation can now relive a part of their Asian experience through dishes such as chilli beef krapao and panang curry. Key team members at Achara, including chef and co-owner Graeme Reynolds travelled to Thailand on a food research trip earlier this year and the menu has grown to incorporate some of their findings. The pre-theatre menu (4pm to 6pm, Monday to Thursday) is a steal, with three courses and side dishes served family style for €25. Bike Mike's, Blackrock, Once there were three - Michael's, Little Mike's and Big Mike's - but now there is just the bigger, brasher latter, a lavishly appointed dining room, cocktail bar and terrace in the heart of Blackrock. Big Mike's is big in every sense, from its proprietor Gaz Smith's exuberant personality, to the expansive dining and drinking spaces, and the caveman sized cuts of carefully selected meat. The surf and turf platters are the thing to have here, with a couple of cuts of beef, a generous selection of the catch of the day, and a panoply of locally caught shellfish, all swimming in butter, with sauces on the side and a bucket of homemade chips too. The cocktails are innovative and fun, and the wine list is extensive. Come hungry and thirsty. The lunch specials, keenly priced, are always worth checking out. Kicky's, Georges Street, The food, indeed the entire experience at Kicky's, is exuberant, generous and occasionally playful, much like its co-owner and chef Eric Matthews. The menu reads like a list of what the chefs themselves would like to eat, and that's no bad thing. It changes regularly but the 72-hour potato focaccia with carbonara butter and a snowy mountain of Permesan and pecorino; the rabbit Bolognese with pangrattato, and the unashamedly assertive cacio e pepe are staples. You'll also usually find a whole grilled fish, with glorious blistered skin, on the main course offering. There would be an outcry if the Irish coffee dessert, a modern classic consisting of butterscotch whiskey sauce with a crunchy macaron topped by coffee ice cream, softly whipped mascarpone and a dusting of chocolate and nutmeg, were to disappear from the menu. Order a glass of co-owner Richie Barrett's famous home made limoncello to finish. The Saddle Room at The Shelbourne, St Stephen's Green, Slide into a properly comfortable and well considered dining chair and admire the snowy starched table linens, order a glass or two from the swanky new Champagne trolley, and it won't just be the collection of Martyn Turner cartoons on the walls that brings a smile to your face. A meal at the Saddle Room at the Shelbourne is undoubtedly an indulgence, but it needn't cost the earth. Three courses at lunch or pre-theatre is €47, and they don't hold back on the opulent extra little touches. Executive chef Garry Hughes and Saddle Room head chef Phily Roe have simplified some elements of the menu here, bringing flawless ingredients front and centre. At dinner, the incredibly tender and flavoursome Black Angus beef from Cork is carved tableside for added drama. Nightmarket, Ranelagh, If it's authentic Thai food you are looking for, you'll find it here at this smart suburban spot, where Jutarat Suwankeeree, known to all as R, puts a spotlight on the spicy seafood dishes from her coastal home town of Hua Hin, as well as the dishes she learned to cook with her grandmother in Chiang Mai. The extensive menu is a roll call of Thai favourites, prepared and served just as they should be. Front of house, and stewardship of a wonderful wine list with an entire page devoted to riesling, is in the hands of R's partner in business and in life, Limerick man Conor Sexton. Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen, Parnell Square, Eating in Chapter One is like watching the Russian State Ballet do Swan Lake - it's pacey, perfectly executed and exciting. This long-established bastion of Irish hospitality found a new iteration under Mickael Viljanen a few years back, securing a second Michelin star in the process. The restaurant is situated in a building which once accommodated the Jameson family, though the cosiness of this basement room would make you forget you were in Dublin. Expect classics like foie gras royale with smoked eel and green apple, sensational takes on seasonal cooking and service that would stand out anywhere in the world. Skip the Irish coffee trolley at your own peril. Lena, Portobello, You could almost feel the T-Rex sized footsteps quaking the glasses of water on the desks of every Irish food writer when news broke that the team behind Uno Mas would be taking over Lock's on Windsor Terrace, and reopening it as Lena. This level of hype can harm a restaurant more than help it, but Lena is a restaurant that exudes a calm, cool composure, and is putting out some of the best food in the city. Start with a simple fritti of anchovy and sage, an aromatic face punch that will leave you thanking the pugilist, in this case, Paul McNamara, for blessing your cheek before turning the other for an ethereal osso bucco on a bone marrow rich Milanese risotto. Cap it off with a rum baba for a picture perfect landing. Eating food like this while watching swans glide down the canal is close to the peak of Dublin existence as it gets. Bastible, South Circular Road, There are rooms and restaurants in this world that you can't help but feel good in, and Bastible is among them. Located on the South Circular Road, it serves up the kind of clean, seasonally driven and delicious food in a manner that would make you think they can do it in their sleep. Chef Killian Walsh has a way of balancing flavours that is rare and wonderful, knowing when to put the foot on the gas or hit piano piano on the score, and the results speak, whisper and shout for themselves. This neighbourhood restaurant has evolved into a well deserved destination that is well worth the journey, no matter the start point. Grano, Stoneybatter, Grano is a love letter to the dry soils and hot pork specialities of Calabria, all tucked away in a little room off Manor Street in Stoneybatter. The brainchild of chef Roberto Mungo, Grano is one of Dublin's most in demand restaurants for very good reason. The pasta, made fresh every day, and often within sight of where you're sitting, is as close to perfect as you can get this side of the strait of Messina, and the cacio e pepe suppli are a Dublin staple at this point, but scratch deeper and you'll see what makes Grano truly spectacular. Almost everything on the menu, right down to the wheat in the pasta, is brought over from Calabria. Don't miss the scaldanduja, a fiery spreadable pork sausage, cooked over candle flame, and the house wine, senza dubbio, a gaglioppo/greco nero blend made specifically for Grano, and another reason to ever doubt what it, and Calabria are about. Variety Jones, Thomas Street, After a fire ravaged its new home on 79 Thomas St just days after opening, there was a collective intake of breath from the hungry crowds of Dublin eaters at the thought of Variety Jones being no more. But you can't keep a good thing down, and Variety Jones is very high up the list of good things. A family run and owned restaurant through and through, it's one of the most exciting places you can hold a knife and fork in the city. The tasting menu is always uncompromising on flavour, and unafraid to either push the boat out or plunge you into pure nostalgia via the by now legendary spaghetti Alfredo. Anyone who has an image of professional kitchens as dark, shouty, flame-filled pits of aggressive tension should be prescribed a meal in D'Olier Street. The kitchen team, led by head chef and co-owner James Moore, exude a level of coordination and calm that is seldom seen anywhere. This, of course, is reflected in the food - paced perfectly, generous, clean and delicious, and served n a room that is exquisitely lit and appointed. The menu changes regularly and continues to evolve and get better, and although D'Olier Street is a relative newcomer in the Irish restaurant landscape, it's already secured its status and has rightly won over the hearts and bellies of its diners. Coppinger, Coppinger Row, In one of the greatest gastro-phoenix moves of the last decade, the Bereen brothers reopened Coppinger restaurant in the same site that it had originally inhabited as Coppinger Row, much to the joy of all. The new project feels familiar, but with chef Dan Hannigan stepping up at the helm, the new Coppinger has stepped up a level. A glistening tranch of turbot with Basque vinaigrette remains among the best things we have eaten in some time, while the ever changing menu del dia, offering a three course midweek lunch for €20, remains unquestionably the best value in town. As good for a 12 person celebration as it is for a solo lunch with a cold martini, Coppinger remains as cool as ever and is only getting better. Spitalfields, The Coombe, What could be more perfect than a restaurant in a pub? We're not talking about a pub serving sad shepherds pies or buckets of buffalo wings with bottled blue cheese. Spitalfields is something very different and quite wonderful. A refuge nestled in The Coombe, Dublin's historical silk weaving quarter, it serves excellent modern Irish food backed up with some of the finest service in the city from veteran manager Declan Maxwell. If you're of a sharing disposition, try the cock-a-leekie Pie, but honestly, you'll rarely put a foot wrong in Spitalfields. And the best thing about it? A perfect pint downstairs after dinner. You are in a pub after all. Richmond, Portobello, The definition of a gem, Richmond is a small restaurant serving brilliant plates of food close to the Grand Canal. We could wax lyrical about the a la carte menu, which always delivers excellent value and quality, but what makes Richmond stand out is the Tuesday tasting, a five course menu priced at €72 offering a new selection every single time. This is a restaurant that's not afraid to put the work in, and that is obvious on the plate. Impeccable cooking and balanced flavours, with the kind of technical prowess that doesn't lean into smoke and mirrors. The early evening menu, meanwhile, is some of the best money you can spend on food in the city, and the Sunday brunch is as good as you'd expect. If every neighbourhood had a Richmond, the city would be richer for it. Bar Pez, Kevin Street, Pass the threshold of this small but perfectly formed Kevin Street canteen and you could think yourself in San Sebastián or Santander. With rich wood panelling offering a golden hue, Bar Pez is a warm and inviting room staffed by people who truly love the product, and the small kitchen, located behind a counter, churning out brilliant bites. The crab sandwich, made with No Messin' bakery milk bread, will stay with you for weeks after. The fish a la plancha - turbot on our last visit - is a reminder that often less is more, and that there are other worlds with quiet confident cooking behind steamy windows in the city centre. If you think back to the idea of chipper dinners through the rose tinted lens of nostalgia, the current reality of that vision might be getting served in Fish Shop on Banburb Street, albeit with a few more feet of white marble counter and a wine list which reads like a Beano annual for Burgundy lovers. It would be really easy to look at the chalkboard fish and chips menu and the friendly, easy service and think that Fish Shop don't take what it does too seriously. But sit down, have some perfectly seasoned dressed crab on toast with a glass of something cold and dry, and follow it with a fish (choose between hake, plaice or haddock) and some perfect chips, and you'll see that this is more shark than minnow. Etto, Merrion Row, You will never forget the first time you eat the prunes in this tiny place on Merrion Row, and you may well find yourself gazing lovingly at these glistening stone fruits, poached in red wine and spices, with an almost impossibly architectural swirl of vanilla mascarpone on their flank. Even after all these years, Etto continues to bring the same levels of happiness, not just through prunes, but the whole menu. The mussels with nduja and sweetcorn are the stuff of legend, and the approach to simple yet elevated food results in a restaurant that is incredibly consistent and delicious. Be prepared to talk to your neighbours if you're sitting in the cosy dining room and once again, don't skip the prunes. Uno Mas, Aungier Street, An ode to the delicious offerings of the Iberian peninsula by restaurateurs Liz Matthews and Simon Barret and chef Paul McNamara, Uno Mas is undoubtedly one of Dublin's most loved restaurants. The feeling of anticipation and sharp intake of breath before your knife breaks the surface of the tortilla is something that everyone should experience at least once. But it doesn't stop there - toothsome, tender rice with rabbit, shiitake and aged Manchego cheese or perhaps a delicious plate of Porchetta tonnato, guindilla peppers and crispy pig's ears? We could go on, but suffice to say you will seldom put a foot wrong in Uno Mas. A special mention has to go to the hospitality and service, which is amongst the finest in Dublin. Library Street, If you've eaten in Library Street, you may have had chef Kevin Burke serve you a fish head, and had it bring tears to your eyes. You won't have been said, though; instead you'd have been bowled over by one of the most delicious things you'll have ever eaten. Looking down at the business end of a turbot that's been thickly coated in a phenomenal layer of a preserved lemon and miso condiment, plucking out the sticky cheeks and peeling delicate flakes of fish from the frame, will bring out something primal in you. But there is so much more than fish heads on the menu in Library Street. The cooking is smart, precise and democratic, and the atmosphere is second to none. Pickle, Camden Street, The depth of flavour that chef Sunil Ghai manages to cram into his cooking has to be tasted to be believed. Originally hailing from Gwalior, Ghai has ascended to the top of the food chain when it comes to Indian food in Ireland, with Pickle being the crown jewel of his restaurants. Bejewelled curries, incredibly profound and complex flavours and a unique take on food from all over India, married with a love for Irish produce, makes any meal in Pickle one to truly remember. Don't miss the goat keema pao - deeply aromatic goat mince on bread, rich with cinnamon, cardamom and cloves - and the pork champ vindaloo, a fiery take on the Indo-portugese classic. For groups, the Raan feast of a slow cooked leg of Irish lamb is one of the most impressive centrepieces in the country, and as good as it looks. Foret, Sussex Terrace, The French have given a lot to this world - Peugeot pepper mills, pinot noir and the song Ca Plane Pour Moi by Plastic Bertrand to name a few. For years, however, Dublin has been screaming out for a good French bistro, and it finally has it in the form of Foret. Our advice is to book in for a long, leisurely lunch with the following game plan. Start with some home made saucisson, oeuf mayo, leek vinaigrette and some anchovies with ratte potatoes and fresh cheese. Move onto the pig's head ballotine with a glass of Gamay or some rich, beefy, onion soup. Follow with a rare wagyu beef rump au poivre with a nice syrah is the logical next step, and the warm chocolate mousse is the perfect way to ride out a truly indulgent meal. Finish with a pint in the wonderful O'Briens downstairs to bring you back to earth and go home knowing that you've dipped a little piggy in the brand of joie de vivre and savoir faire that Foret is serving by the plate load. Volpe Nera in Blackrock is a shining example of what a good neighbourhood restaurant should be. The service makes you feel at home, the room is comfortable and unassuming, but as soon as plates hit the table, it's clear that Volpe Nera is all about the food. Barry Sun's cooking is incredibly precise, clean and visually stunning, from perfectly dressed Flaggy Shore oysters on the half shell, mushroom dumplings in a soy broth that are almost too pretty to eat, and mains like wild John Dory or delicate mezzalune pasta filled with lemon and ricotta. There are elements of Sun's Chinese roots, and nods to his time spent as head chef at the equally special Etto, but Volpe Nera is fast becoming a destination restaurant known for all the right reasons. Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Merrion Steet, The tagline on the website of Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud reads 'forty years of excellence', but it could easily have been 'forty years of changing the landscape of Ireland's restaurant scene and training some of the country's best chefs, therefore creating a legacy that continues to create ripples'. It might not look great on a website, but it is undoubtedly true. The vibrant Irish dining scene of today has only been possible because of venues like Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud and Ross Lewis' original iteration of Chapter One - ambitious, forward-thinking establishments whose owners didn't see why Ireland shouldn't have world-class places to eat. Some of the dishes here are by now legendary - the ravioli of blue lobster, the suckling pig croquette, the squab pigeon from Anjou - and they always deliver. But there are also newer additions like a 30-month comté soufflé with creamed morels and soy, a and spiced lamb with potato croissant. Don't even think about leaving without dessert. Mamo, Howth, The Business Post's most recent review of Mamó remarked that good restaurants 'help you park your worries at the door, then pick them up again in smaller packages once you've been well fed and watered'. But to call Mamó a good restaurant, it went on, 'does it a disservice; it is one of the best around'. Every word of that remains true, because what Jess D'Arcy and Killian Durkin have created with this restaurant in Howth which they opened in 2019 is truly special. The food - including the famed 'cod chip' - is full of flavour and unpretentious, but also elegant and fresh. A wonderful wine list and some of the warmest service in the city makes this the complete package. Reggie's, Rathmines, reggie' You don't expect to find one of the best salads around in a pizza place. But one taste of the pumpkin salad at Reggie's - earthy, roasted chunks of the stuff, with crispy cavolo nero and a pumpkin seed dressing - leaves you in no doubt about the commitment to quality you'll find here. Reggie White worked in Pi, Bambino and Little Forest among others before opening his own place in Rathmines late last year. It's a bright, modern space where you'll find gorgeous 48-hour fermented sourdough pizzas, but also cacio e pepe arancini, superb chicken wings and - if you can find room for it - a good old fashioned ice-cream sundae for dessert. Toon's Bridge Dairy, Andarl Farm, McNally's and Dermot Carey are just some of the top drawer Irish producers White has populated his menu with. Big Fan, Aungier Street, Is Big Fan the most fun place to eat in Ireland? It's certainly up there. But we're not using the word 'fun' as it's normally used to talk about restaurants - 'the food's crap, but it's good fun' - because the food here is about as far away from that as it's possible to get. Rob Hayes and Alex Zhang's bright, brash and exuberant Aungier Street venue is a delight, a place where you can head with a group, eat things like scamorza wontons and deep-fried duck wings, and drink cocktails like the Ho Lee Fook and the Spoilt Brat. And if all that doesn't sound like a great night out, we don't know what does. Liath, Blackrock Market, It is still a thing of wonder, even after all these years, that you can find a two Michelin-starred restaurant down a lane off the main street in Blackrock in south Co Dublin. But that is where Aussie chef Damien Grey and his small but perfectly-formed team serve up some of the most delicate, smile-inducing food you'll find anywhere on this island. The communal nature of the experience, with all guests arriving at the same time to this tiny dining room with the open kitchen at one end, only adds to the warm, welcoming and fun nature of a visit to Liath. FX Buckley, Pembroke Street, Devilled kidneys or oysters to start? A ribeye, striploin or t-bone for mains? What about sides - beef dripping chips, creamed spinach, onion rings - all three perhaps? And would adding a truffle-fried egg be out of the question? These are the delicious questions you must answer before starting a meal in this temple to Irish beef, but even before that, you'll need to decide on a cocktail to have in the wonderfully cosy Xavier's Bar of this superb steakhouse a few minutes walk from St Stephen's Green. Forget there's a world outside, and cocoon yourself away for a few hours of pure indulgence. 3 Leaves, Blackrock, Santosh Thomas and Milie Matthew are the husband and wife dream team behind 3 Leaves, an unassuming space in the Blackrock Market - yes, the same one that houses the two Michelin-starred Liath - where you can eat the Indian food of your dreams. First time visitor? Try the thali, the pan puri, the chicken biryani, though really you won't go far wrong whatever you choose. Dax, Pembroke Street, There is an argument, and it's a good one, that you haven't really experienced the essence of Irish fine dining until you've had a meal cooked for you by Graham Neville. His food - precise, refined, delicious - is perfectly suited to Dax, the basement restaurant that Oliver Meisonnave opened in 2004, and that even during the Celtic Tiger years managed to retain a sense of sophistication. Expect French classics made with the best of ingredients, among them smoked salmon from Port Oriel, Wicklow Gap venison, Dinish Island scallops and lots more. Let Meisonnave guide you on your wine choices, and you are set for a truly magnifique Hiberno-French experience
Business Post
16-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Business Post
101 Great Irish Restaurants: The Munster destinations that should be on your radar
The 2025 edition of 101 Great Irish Restaurants, produced in partnership with Nespresso Professional, showcases the depth and breadth of Ireland's food scene, from casual bistros to Michelin-starred fine dining restaurants. Here are the venues in Munster that feature in this year's guide. Landline at The Park Hotel, Kenmare, Co Kerry, Interesting changes are afoot at The Park in Kenmare, where new owners Bryan and Tara Meehan are renovating bedrooms, seriously improving the coffee offering, and dotting the hotel with an incredible collection of contemporary art. The latter is on superb display in Landline, named for one of the Sean Scully pieces that hang there, and the tasting menu is no more, replaced by an a la carte overseen by chef James O'Sullivan and his team. Kerry Hill lamb is there of course, while the catch of the day might be brill with a mussel sauce. The sides alone - ratte potatoes, wilted kale with a lemon and pine nut dressing, and green beans with confit shallots and smoked almonds - are almost worth the trip. Should there be anyone left wondering if Goldie's whole fin-to-gill whole catch shtick is just a gimmick, point them in the direction of all the awards and accolades chef-proprietor Aishling Moore and her team have collected since day one. Or maybe how in-demand Moore is in print, on stage and in other people's restaurants. Everyone wants a bit of Goldie, and as such the restaurant and its crazy excellent dishes have single handedly made fish funky, fun and fashionable for a whole new generation. It's food with a side order of marine ecosystem advocacy, and hey, they are having huge fun with it. Who else can take scrappy bit of fishy off cuts and turn them into the tastiest snacks ever? Let us pray that the prawn cocktail crisps with Cuinneog buttermilk ranch never ever leave us. Ichigo Ichie Bistro and Natural Wine Bar, Cork city, Since handing back his Michelin star and changing tack, the reinvention of Ichigo Ichie has reinvigorated chef-proprietor Takashi Miyazaki, who is relishing being back behind the pass, enjoying the interaction with his diners and the daily meditative ritual of hand rolling his signature buckwheat noodles. Dishes are full flavoured meanderings mixing a stable menu of mainly noodle and rice bowls, with specials that embody Miyazaki's personal memories of Japan. This is at once food for fun and the epitome of fast-slow food. Vaughan's Anchor Inn, Liscannor, Co Clare, It's interesting to see just how many of the wonderful Irish restaurants listed in this guide are family-run, and Vaughan's is a prime example. Three generations of the family have presided over this characterful seafood and oyster bar, and the kitchen is currently led by James, elder son of the current proprietors, Denis and Lisa Vaughan. If you stay in one of the pretty bedrooms upstairs, in the morning you might also meet Annette, Denis's mother, and co-founder of the business with her late husband John. Seafood is king here, and Denis Vaughan has put together one of the country's best collections of fine Burgundy wines to accompany the local catch. Chowder, oysters and fish and chips are on the menu of course, but the kitchen also draws inspiration from further afield, so you might find citrus cured salmon served with clementine, nori, ponzu and chive dressing. The Bishop's Buttery, Cashel, Co Tipperary, The studied perfectionism that begins at the door of the reinvented and revitalised Cashel Palace hotel permeates right down to the vaulted ceiling dining room in the basement. This was the palace's original kitchen, but is now a temple to Tipperary's extraordinary food-producing prowess and the talent of a tight-knit kitchen team led by culinary director Stephen Hayes and head chef Stefan McEnteer. The tasting menu is a well-judged six courses, mixing land and sea, pulling from the Golden Vale and its environs, and the Irish sea. A shiny Michelin star twinkles overhead, but the real stars of the show are the thoughtfully composed and beautifully presented dishes that land at the table here. The Falls at Sheen Falls Lodge, Kenmare, Co Kerry, The quiet beauty of executive head chef Mark Treacy's food is in contrast to the exuberant energy of the fast flowing water outside this Kenmare landmark. Settle in for a comforting, cosseting experience in a dining room that reflects the hotel's two Michelin key status. Treacy's ability to combine seasonality with classical technique to bring something incredibly harmonious to the plate is evident in a spring menu standout dish of Caherbeg free-range pork loin, belly, croquette, wild garlic, morels, green asparagus and sauce Albufera. If this restaurant were to have a signature dish, however, it might be the whipped frozen coconut marshmallow, compressed pineapple, passionfruit curd and lychee sorbet, which never fails to surprise and delight diners. The Oak Room at Adare Manor, Adare, Co Limerick, It wouldn't be surprising if Mike Tweedie and his kitchen team at The Oak Room sat on their laurels; after all, not only do they have a Michelin star, but they are also located in one of Europe's most exclusive hotels. But that's not in Tweedie's nature, as he contines to evolve his food, which is about as far away from stuffy and buttoned-up as it's possible to get. Yes, there are all the high-end touches that you would expect somewhere like Adare Manor, but you will never forget that you are eating in Ireland thanks to dishes like Banner blueberries from Clare with a raw milk custard and ginger tea, or a Doonbeg crab tart with confit tomatoes, smoked caviar and coriander. Everett's, Waterford city, everett' Consistency is key at this cosy dining room in the heart of Waterford city, where Peter Everett and his husband Keith Noonan are celebrating seven years in business. They make full use of great raw ingredients, with fish and shellfish coming from the south east coast fishing harbours, locally reared beef, and duck and venison from neighbouring counties. Nothing travels very far to the table here, and once in the kitchen, it is treated simply and with respect, while benefiting from Everett's mastery of classical technique. A recent dish of fillet of hake, smoked bacon, cabbage and potato was a case in point, the fish roasted à point, served on a bed of finely shredded Savoy cabbage and smoked bacon, with Parmesan and shallot-enriched potato mousse and cider beurre blanc. Best of all, this perfect plate appeared on the €41 three-course pre-theatre menu. Homestead Cottage, Doolin, Co Clare, It's a family affair here in picturesque Doolin, where Sophie and Robbie McCauley's charming restaurant in a 200-year-old cottage perched on the edge of the Atlantic rewards those who make the journey. Robbie McCauley was previously head chef at Gregan's Castle, and has also been a key member of the kitchen team at the Michelin-starred Campagne in Kilkenny. His relationships with his local suppliers go beyond business into friendship, and he is fastidious about sharing credit for the restaurant's success with them. Burren lamb, Liscannor crab and Aran monkfish sit alongside homegrown and locally sourced vegetables, and in summer their own berries dictate the dessert menu. Sophie runs front of house and brings her Gallic charm to service in the cottage's three small rooms. 51 Cornmarket, Cork City, Locals always want to keep the best places for themselves, and 51 Cornmarket is definitely one of those places, beloved by Corkonians for its outstanding food and neighbourhood vibe. Unfussy but skillful cooking that's all about meticulous sourcing, provenance and seasonality brings joy to those who wangle a seat in this petit bistro. David Deveraux runs the kitchen while Anne Zagas treats her guests like family. Together, they know what their people want, and boy do they deliver - their heart and generosity will keep you coming back again and again. A small but perfectly sourced wine list is courtesy of Grape Circus and Brian's Wines. The Glass Curtain, Cork city, It might be Brian Murray's name over the door, but what makes dining at The Glass Curtain such a joy is the feeling of community he has inspired inside and outside his kitchen. The camaraderie among staff is the secret sauce that makes every meal here a delight to be relished. The commitment to sourcing the best of produce is matched by a mindful kind of cooking, honouring those who raised the beef and grew the asparagus. Murray and his team travel extensively, bringing back flavours and trends that dance on the plate and feel right at home in Cork. An obvious classical touch to the cookery is adroit in matching the demands of the modern diner, with creative collaboratins a fixture of the dining year. Sublime dining, every time. Paradiso, Cork city, It may have been in business for 32 years, but Ireland's pioneering vegetarian restaurant is as bright a beacon for excellence as it ever was, and hopefully alwawys will be. An absolute commitment to seasonality can be challenging when dealing with a larder of Irish vegetables. Unpredictability reigns, and what shows up can swing between gluts and dust. But being around for as long as Paradiso has means there is an unparalleled understanding of what it takes to be a seasonally focused vegetarian restaurant in Ireland. Firstly, that is a symbiotic relationship with a network of driven, passionate growers. Secondly, and of equal importance, is the Paradiso playbook of tried, tested, tried and tested again recipes that are the blueprint to success from its own mother sauces to a catalogue of 'crunchy things' and ferments. Founder Denis Cotter is gearing up to take a major step back in handing over operation of Paradiso to long-time manager Dave O'Mahony and head chef Miguel Frutos. In safe hands, so. The Dining Room at Gregan's Castle, The Burren, Co Clare, To bag a window table in the Dining Room at Gregan's Castle is to achieve a kind of bliss that is hard to replicate anywhere in the world. First, there's the view of the Burren, which is magical whatever the weather, and which might also include a glimpse of one of the hotel's two resident cats. Secondly, there's the knowledge that after dinner, you can head to the dark, cosy bar for a cocktail, perhaps one made with pomo from Killahora Orchards and Highbank Orchard syrup. And of course, there's the food from chef Jonathan Farrell, formerly of Bastible in Dublin, which makes glorious use of Flaggy Shore oysters, local lamb and Ailwee Cave cheese. Elbow Lane, Cork city, Flames, smoke and beer - the triumvirate signature of Elbow Lane – continues to be a recipe for success as the smokehouse restaurant eases into its second decade. There's no finer place in Cork to get your fix of steak, flashed over embers and served with a lake of butter and caveman chips with a shake of house seasoning. Executive head chef Harrison Sharpe's laser focus on quality, provenance and mastering the flame means every item comes with a side order of consistent perfection, whether it once mooed, clucked or splashed in the sea. Cocktails by resident mixologist Joe Timbrell are no afterthought; his eponymous Joe's Amaretto scooped a silver award in the liqueur category at the 2024 World Drinks Awards. The on-site micro-brewery, meanwhile, has entered a new era of collab-based brews all designed with food in mind. Terre, Castlemartyr, Co Cork, Two stars in, Vincent Crepel is well and truly in the flow of in east Cork. Since opening, there has been a gradual increase in the range of Irish produce appearing across the menu in this restaurant in the Castlemartyr resort, while also staying true to a commitment to pick and serve the best, from wherever in the world that may be. Terre offers a sensory feast delivered by velvet glove; every comfort has been thought of for you so you can focus on how this place makes you feel, from the inside out. The inclusion of the kitchen garden as an additional stop on the Terre journey, and including bespoke locally-made water kefir adds to the sense that this is a restaurant settling into its surroundings. It's by far the most exclusive dining experience to be had in the Rebel County, but that only seems to add to its appeal. Rare, Kinsale, Co Cork, Meeran Manzoor's culinary vision is about as exciting as it gets for Ireland today. Evangelical about the use of hyper-local seasonal produce from in and around Kinsale, his dishes are a whirlwind of classical French technique and exquisite flavours of his south Indian heritage. His food is personal and shifts lazy perceptions of what fine dining Indian cuisine can be and is. The dining room is unique too, with its glass curtain wall affording diners a glimpse into the kitchen that only builds anticipation for what is to come. Menus constantly change to keep pace with the seasons, meaning no two visits are ever the same. An adroit front of house and mixology service completes the experience. There's a joyful community that surrounds the happenings at St Francis Provisions, with the ready crowd of regulars who throng to this diminutive restaurant knowing that whatever they order will always be absolute perfection. That's no mean feat when random ingredients turn up at the door in the morning and are somehow magicked into dishes that easily slake the appetites of this restaurant's devoted punters. Head chef Rebeca Recarey Sanchez brings punches of moreish Spanish flavour to dishes, particularly the heady marriage of sweet-sour-salty. This is a chef unafraid to put Spanish slow cooked tripe on the menu, and plenty will gobble it up. Owner Barbara Nealon is Kinsale's very own Nonna, pouring glasses of incredible natty wines and making sure you're well fed, watered and ecstatic as you roll out the door. Monk's Lane, Timoleague, Co Cork, For the past eleven years, Michelle O'Mahony and Gavin Moore have been putting the tiny village of Timoleague on the map thanks to their uber-friendly neighbourhood bar and restaurant, Monk's Lane. Here is where you will find all the essential elements of contemporary dining with a menu that practically bear hugs local-seasonal produce and melds it with the warm fuzziness of Irish hospitality. There are generous-to-a-fault portion sizes, unfussy delicious dishes cleverly construed and presented, attentive service, excellent wines and bar specials. There's a Mrs Doyle streak in the service as you're asked if you might want some more, taste this, or to have a go on that. It's an adorable and delicious place to be and why it has such a cult following. Adrift at Dunmore House Hotel, Clonakilty, Co Cork, Adrift is a restaurant that mirrors its surroundings perfectly. A champion of local produe, and with seasonality as a central tenet of how menus are designed, they walk the walk with their three acres of oceanside kitchen gardens recently certified as organic. Located within a hotel that has been in the Barrett family for four generations, Adrift is imbued with the same sense of generosity and spirit of hospitality that greets every guest through the doors. Fresh fish and seafood is a speciality, reflective of the ocean vista enjoyed from the light-filled dining room. Adrift was named best hotel Restaurant of the year in 2024 by this publication, a reflection of the quality, freshness and commitment to only serving the best, coupled with a joyful and gregarious service that is a rare gem indeed. The Tannery, Dungarvan, Co Waterford, By now, Paul and Maire Flynn's restaurant can surely be said to have attained national treasure status. Opened in 1997 and followed by a cookery school and extremely stylish guesthouse across the road, their business is a little oasis of culinary excellence in a town that punches way above its eight when it comes to hospitality. The Flynns have always been outward-looking, and continue to bring guest chefs like Patrick Powell, formerly of the London celeb hangout the Chiltern Firehouse, to cook in their kitchen. But they have also stayed true to their roots with a menu that's big on comfort and flavour, and that will send even the pickiest eater home happy. Camus Farm Field Kitchen, Ardfield, Clonakilty, Co Cork, West Cork has long been a land of renegades, and Field Kitchen is no different. The restaurant has an irreverent sense of being quite sure of itself while pivoting among the seasonal fayre bursting forth from its farmlands, while inspiring head chef Bob Cairns gently nurtures the bounty at his fingertips into dishes that make your heart sing. There is a simplicity in dishes that belies a deep knowledge of the ingredients under his hands; the perfect treatment and matching of flavours and textures that selflessly puts focus on celebrating the produce and not the chef. But only an exceptional chef can do that, and so Cairns is just that. Dexter beef reared on the farm, along with an extensive larder of organic produce from the farm that is picked to order is paired with the very best from a veritable west Cork larder. Restaurant Chestnut, Ballydehob, Co Cork, Kudos to Restaurant Chestnut for declaring that having a Michelin star doesn't mean you have to keep doing the same thing forever lest it stifle the abundant creative genius of its chefs. Rob Krawcyzk and Elaine Fleming's petit restaurant has done some creative deckchair moving to make room for more diners to enjoy their cuisine. The corset-tight precision of dishes Krawcyzk has perfected since opening isn't lost even as they get loose with their offering. The stellar signature tasting menu is still there, and now other - quicker, affordable - offerings such as the two course prix fixe and the short four course make the most of quieter times when long languid dinners might not be the goal. In addition, the reintroduction of the Covid-era three course Sticks & Twigs menu ensures a taste of Chestnut is available in the comfort of one's home too. Baba'de, Baltimore, Co Cork, The baby sister to Ahmet Dede's gilded fine dining powerhouse has proved a hit since it opened mid-summer season 2024. It may be more casual and highly spirited, but the food is every bit as stellar as we've come to expect from Dede and his squad of flavour-driven chefs. Presided over by culinary director Ali Siyar, Baba'de is where dishes can push the wild romanticism that blossoms when Dede's love of his Turkish homeland collides with his Irish home in Baltimore. Dishes like Ali's hummus is the best hummus ever tasted, or Ahmet's mum's rice pudding with Turkish hazelnuts and sest Cork cream. But it is perhaps his ode to the Baltimore blue lobster that will leave you swooning into the night. Dede at the Customs House, Baltimore, Co Cork, The beauty of dining again and again at Dede is witnessing the evolution of greatness. The restaurant, food, story, mission - every bit is as personal to Ahmet Dede as it gets. The partnership between Dede and compadre Maria Archer is symbiotic, and the desire to keep pushing their own bar of what constitutes the best dining experience in Ireland is to be admired. With two Michelin stars tucked under the belt, Dede's cuisine has not rested on laurels gained but is pumped and reinvigorated to strive to another level of perfection. But for all the industry and perfectionism in the kitchen, for the diner Dede remains a warm, welcoming and charming space, oozing ease. Wines are not an afterthought but considered in tandem with the food and are as one. The cherry on top? Dede insists on touring the room and shaking hands with every person he and his team serve. Why? Because for him it really is personal. The Mustard Seed, Ballingarry, Co Limerick, Head chef Angel Pirev cooks elevated country house cuisine, and to that end his ethos is powered by selecting ingredients for their quality and flavour. A larder of local produce is bolstered by a daily garden run of freshly plucked and picked vegetables, herbs and flowers grown in the walled garden and glasshouses to bestow seasonal accents to dishes. There's a comforting certainty in the classic cookery of country house hotels; dining at The Mustard Seed protects that whilst matching expectations of contemporary diners, many of whom are loyal regulars. This is food in keeping with its surroundings with menus that allude to a time when pursuits of hunting and shooting were for the leisurely. When the food matches its location so beautifully, then does the oft monikered taste of place become a real and tangible thing. Solas Tapas, Dingle, Co Kerry, Nicky Foley is cooking food he likes to eat and knows you will too. Hanging out in Dingle on the south-western edge of this little island, the bites at Solas Tapas take you galloping around the globe whilst honouring the unique foods and producers of this peninsula - you haven't tasted a potato until you've had a Maharees-grown potato that's gone through Foley's kitchen. Acquiring a well-earned Michelin Bib Gourmand has done nothing to make getting a table any easier, so perseverance is key with the effort duly rewarded. Fresh off the boat fish is always a speciality but keep an eager eye out for when seasonal veggies start making an appearance on the menu, too.
