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Toronto Star
22-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Toronto Star
Take a nostalgic tour of Montreal's iconic foods, from a famous plate of lobster spaghetti to the battle of the bagels
Canadian Travel Only in Canada is a new travel series that acts as a love letter to the bucket-list destinations and experiences in our beautiful country. Look for the Only in Canada series every week. There's nothing precious about the presentation at Au Pied de Cochon, Montreal's legendary temple of Quebecois decadence, but there's a flair for the dramatic. The signature canard en conserve (duck in a can) arrives as described, a server cutting off the lid tableside and spilling out the goods: a half duck breast, hunk of foie gras, butter-braised cabbage and roasted garlic, in a puddle of balsamic demi-glace. Chances are you've heard about this place and this entrée, one of the city's signature dishes (as long-time Montreal restaurant critic Lesley Chesterman has proclaimed). Culinary tourists everywhere were tipped off by a 2006 episode of 'No Reservations,' wherein Anthony Bourdain declared chef Martin Picard 'a personal idol,' and Au Pied de Cochon one of his 'very favourites in the world.' This city has no shortage of dining destinations, and last week Michelin finally bestowed stars in Quebec for the first time. Montreal earned three one-star ratings (awarded to Europea, Mastard and Sabayon) — a frankly underwhelming tally that had the local press questioning if Michelin really gets Montreal at all. ARTICLE CONTINUES BELOW Au Pied de Cochon's decadent canard en conserve. The ingredients are sealed in a can, then cooked in submerged water for 27 minutes. Au Pied de Cochon The better judges? Montrealers. You don't need a Michelin guide to know about Joe Beef, for example, which competes with Au Pied for irreverence and indulgence. (To be clear, both did make Michelin's list of 'recommended' places, akin to honourable mentions.) Joe Beef is widely recognized as one of the city's most influential restaurants, where diners clamour for the steaks and the cream-drenched lobster spaghetti, probably the most popular dish. If you want a taste of the places that reflect the city or helped define the food culture, look to the venerable institutions that are still going strong, decades on. And if you can, tour around with a passionate local. 'We have such a unique culture here that doesn't feel like the rest of Quebec and also doesn't feel like the rest of Canada. It has shared connections with Canada and Quebec, but there's a 'Montrealism' that's purely Montreal,' says Thom Seivewright, the guide also known as @montrealexpert on Instagram and founder of Tours Montréal. He shows travellers around town on themed or custom, private walking tours, highlighting places like Chez Tousignant (a decade-old 'tribute to Quebecois junk food,' specifically casse - croûte staples such as poutine and hot dogs) or the Jean-Talon Market, an impressive open-air cornucopia that dates back to 1933. 'It's a producers' market — you can't sell here unless you produce something,' says Seivewright. Like so many places in Canada, Montreal was transformed by waves of immigration. This was once home to the country's largest Jewish community, and you can credit this history for the Eastern European foods now synonymous with the city: smoked meat and the bagel. Schwartz's Deli is a Montreal institution that opened in 1928. Smoked-meat fans still line up for the brisket on rye. Eva Blue/Tourisme Montréal Particularly in the late 1800s and early 1900s, Jewish immigrants from countries like Romania arrived, importing their knowledge of preserving meat in this era before trusty fridges. Reuben Schwartz was one such newcomer, establishing Schwartz's Deli in 1928. ARTICLE CONTINUES BELOW ARTICLE CONTINUES BELOW Reputedly it's now the oldest deli in Canada. The decor remains a blast from the past, the secret recipe has stayed true to the original, and the crowds keep coming for the piled-high brisket on rye. Céline Dion is a fan (and part owner). In nearby Mile-End, St-Viateur and Fairmount continue to vie for the title of Montreal's best bagel. There are duelling lineups, historical claims, celebrity endorsements. Fairmount boasts that it's Montreal's first bagel bakery, dating back to 1919. St-Viateur, opened in 1957 and once frequented by Leonard Cohen, brags it's 'the longest running bagel shop.' St-Viateur is one of the city's most famous bagel shops. It has a long-running rivalry with nearby Fairmount, another icon. Eva Blue/Tourisme Montréal Bagels at both are rolled by hand, boiled in honey water (unlike New York's girthy, more savoury style), and baked in wood-fired ovens the old-fashioned way. Fairmount's version tends to taste sweeter, at least sometimes, especially when eaten hot and fresh, depending on who's judging. 'It's so close, and I'm not just trying to be diplomatic,' says Seivewright, who runs a two-hour tour dedicated wholly to the Montreal bagel, complete with a blind taste test to decide the winner. Whichever way you lean, this may be the most essential Montreal food tradition of all: debating (and disputing) what's most delicious here. Wing Sze Tang travelled with some trip support from Tourisme Montréal, which did not review or approve this article.
The Province
22-05-2025
- Entertainment
- The Province
Famed 'Lunch Lady' behind Vancouver, Toronto restaurants has died
Anthony Bourdain-approved The Lunch Lady, Nguyen Thi Thanh, was a 'quiet master of her craft' Reviews and recommendations are unbiased and products are independently selected. Postmedia may earn an affiliate commission from purchases made through links on this page. Nguyen Thi Thanh, best known as The Lunch Lady of Saigon, has died. This advertisement has not loaded yet, but your article continues below. Create an account or sign in to continue with your reading experience. THIS ARTICLE IS FREE TO READ REGISTER TO UNLOCK. Create an account or sign in to continue with your reading experience. Subscribe now to read the latest news in your city and across Canada. Subscribe now to read the latest news in your city and across Canada. THIS CONTENT IS RESERVED FOR SUBSCRIBERS ONLY Article content The famed chef behind the Ho Chi Minh City street food stall died Monday following a flight to Toronto. Thanh reportedly experienced cardiac arrest shortly after arrival and could not be resuscitated. Thanh's food cart, where she offered a signature dish for every day of the week, was a favourite in Ho Chi Minh City until 2009, when the late chef Anthony Bourdain featured The Lunch Lady on his CNN show, No Reservations. It became an international sensation. From that support and exposure, Thanh would go on to call Bourdain both a friend and guardian angel. Her famous Vietnamese food came to Canada in 2020, when restaurateur Michael Tran and his mother, Victoria, opened The Lunch Lady at 1046 Commercial Dr. in Vancouver. Thanh was a founding partner in the Canadian operations. 'She and the Tran family had a beautiful relationship and I'm so sorry for their loss,' says Mia Stainsby, Vancouver Sun restaurant critic. 'She entrusted them with her recipes and techniques, became family. And she enriched the Vietnamese food culture here in Vancouver.' In 2022, Thanh visited the Vancouver restaurant for the first time. 'I was overflowing with happiness as soon as I stepped in the restaurant,' Thanh shared in a video following the visit. 'Its scale was absolutely beyond my expectation.' A second location in Toronto was slated to open June 3.
Vancouver Sun
22-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Vancouver Sun
'Lunch Lady' street food chef dies in Toronto before restaurant opening
Nguyễn Thị Thanh, the renowned Vietnamese chef known as 'The Lunch Lady,' died shortly after arriving at Toronto Pearson International Airport on May 19. The Lunch Lady 's Toronto location was set to open on June 3, with Thanh at the helm for the month. The owners of The Lunch Lady restaurant in Vancouver announced Thanh's death on Instagram . According to a statement, 'Following her arrival, she experienced cardiac arrest, and although medical personnel worked tirelessly for over an hour to resuscitate her, they were unable to revive her.' Thanh established her Ho Chi Minh City street stall in 1995, serving a rotating menu of noodle soups that was never the same from one day to the next. 'It's like discovering new neighbourhoods every few mouthfuls,' late chef and author Anthony Bourdain said of her ever-changing offering. Thanh reached celebrity status after her appearance on Bourdain's food and travel show, No Reservations, in 2009. Discover the best of B.C.'s recipes, restaurants and wine. By signing up you consent to receive the above newsletter from Postmedia Network Inc. A welcome email is on its way. If you don't see it, please check your junk folder. The next issue of West Coast Table will soon be in your inbox. Please try again Interested in more newsletters? Browse here. According to the South China Morning Post , Bourdain coined Thanh's nickname and helped her decide on The Lunch Lady for her then-nameless stall. She, in turn, called him her 'guardian angel.' 'To the world, she was The Lunch Lady. But to me, she was my aunt, my mentor and someone I loved like family,' Michael Tran, creative director and co-owner of The Lunch Lady Canada, said in a statement. 'We're mourning more than the loss of our founder. We're mourning her warmth, her generosity — the way she lit up a room without ever needing to speak. Her smile said everything.' Established in the summer of 2020, The Lunch Lady's Vancouver location has received three consecutive Michelin Bib Gourmand awards. The guide notes Thanh's 'warm, loving presence' and an 'endlessly enticing' menu. The Lunch Lady Canada has postponed the Toronto opening, and the Vancouver location is temporarily closed. 'Management will be reaching out to patrons who have reservations to arrange alternate arrangements for both Canadian locations.' Vigils in Thanh's honour will be held in Vancouver and Toronto, the details of which will be announced in the future. 'Her impact went far beyond food,' Tran added. 'She taught us to lead with care, to cook with soul, and to stay grounded in where we come from. We'll carry her legacy forward with honour, with gratitude, and with the same heart she brought to every bowl.' Our website is the place for the latest breaking news, exclusive scoops, longreads and provocative commentary. Please bookmark and sign up for our cookbook and recipe newsletter, Cook This, here .
Vancouver Sun
21-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Vancouver Sun
Famed 'Lunch Lady' who inspired Vancouver, Toronto restaurants has died
Nguyen Thi Thanh, best known as The Lunch Lady of Saigon, has died. The famed chef behind the Ho Chi Minh City street food stall died Monday following a flight to Toronto. Thanh reportedly experienced cardiac arrest shortly after arrival and could not be resuscitated. Thanh's food cart , where she offered a signature dish for every day of the week, was a local favourite in Ho Chi Minh City until 2009, when the late chef Anthony Bourdain featured The Lunch Lady on his CNN show , No Reservations. Then, it became an international sensation. From that support and exposure, Thanh would go on to call Bourdain both a friend and guardian angel. Her famous Vietnamese food came to Canada in 2020, when local restaurateur Michael Tran and his mother Victoria opened The Lunch Lady at 1046 Commercial Dr. in Vancouver. Thanh was a 'founding partner' in the Canadian operations. In 2022, Thanh visited the Vancouver restaurant for the first time. 'I was overflowing with happiness as soon as I stepped in the restaurant,' Thanh shared in a video following the visit. 'Its scale was absolutely beyond my expectation.' A second location in Toronto was slated to open June 3. A post shared by The Lunch Lady (@thelunchlady) In a post shared to Instagram, the Toronto team behind The Lunch Lady confirmed that Thanh had been travelling to the city in order to assist with the opening. Discover the best of B.C.'s recipes, restaurants and wine. By signing up you consent to receive the above newsletter from Postmedia Network Inc. A welcome email is on its way. If you don't see it, please check your junk folder. The next issue of West Coast Table will soon be in your inbox. Please try again Interested in more newsletters? Browse here. 'She was on her way to celebrate the grand opening of The Lunch Lady Toronto, to be part of this next chapter and share the story she began decades ago in a small alley in Vietnam,' they shared. 'We were ready to welcome her. To honour her. To celebrate this moment together. And now, we are mourning an immeasurable loss.' Noting the creator of the street food sensation was the 'heart and soul of The Lunch Lady,' the late chef was referred to as 'a mother figure, a mentor, a quiet master of her craft.' 'To the world, she was The Lunch Lady. But to me, she was my aunt, my mentor, and someone I loved like family' said Tran in a news release. ' Today, we're mourning more than the loss of our founder. We're mourning her warmth, her generosity — the way she lit up a room without ever needing to speak. Her smile said everything. Her impact went far beyond food. She taught us to lead with care, to cook with soul, and to stay grounded in where we come from.' The Canadian restaurant team is working with Thanh's family to return her body to Vietnam where she will be laid to rest. 'In the meantime, our team is taking time to grieve, to reflect, and to hold space for everything she meant to us,' they shared on social media. The opening of the new Toronto location will be postponed. A new date will be shared by the team 'when the time feels right.' The Vancouver location, which has received three Michelin Bib Gourmand awards, will be closed May 21 for a day of mourning and to allow staff to mourn. Vigils will also be planned in both Vancouver and Toronto, according to The Lunch Lady Canada, with details such as date and locations to be announced. When operations return at the Canadian locations, Tran says the restaurant teams will carry her legacy, with gratitude. ' And with the same heart she brought to every bowl.'
Vancouver Sun
21-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Vancouver Sun
Famed 'Lunch Lady' behind Vancouver, Toronto restaurants has died
Nguyen Thi Thanh, best known as The Lunch Lady of Saigon, has died. The famed chef behind the Ho Chi Minh City street food stall passed away following a flight to Toronto. Thanh reportedly experienced cardiac arrest shortly after arrival and could not be resuscitated. Thanh's food cart , where she offered a signature dish for every day of the week, was a local favourite in Ho Chi Minh City until 2009, when the late chef Anthony Bourdain featured The Lunch Lady on his CNN show , No Reservations. Then, it became an international sensation. From that support and exposure, Thanh would go on to call Bourdain both a friend and guardian angel. Her famous Vietnamese food came to Canada in 2020, when local restaurateur Michael Tran and his mother Victoria opened The Lunch Lady at 1046 Commercial Dr. in Vancouver. 'I bought the trademarks to her recipes and the Lunch Lady name,' Tran shared i n an article by Vancouver Sun restaurant critic Mia Stainsby published July 21, 2020. Thanh was a 'stakeholder' in the Canadian operations. In 2022, Thanh visited the Vancouver restaurant for the first time. 'I was overflowing with happiness as soon as I stepped in the restaurant,' Thanh shared in a video following the visit. 'Its scale was absolutely beyond my expectation.' A second location in Toronto was slated to open June 3. A post shared by The Lunch Lady (@thelunchlady) In a post shared to Instagram, the Toronto team behind The Lunch Lady confirmed that Thanh had been travelling to the city in order to assist with the opening. Discover the best of B.C.'s recipes, restaurants and wine. By signing up you consent to receive the above newsletter from Postmedia Network Inc. A welcome email is on its way. If you don't see it, please check your junk folder. The next issue of West Coast Table will soon be in your inbox. Please try again Interested in more newsletters? Browse here. 'She was on her way to celebrate the grand opening of The Lunch Lady Toronto, to be part of this next chapter and share the story she began decades ago in a small alley in Vietnam,' they shared. 'We were ready to welcome her. To honour her. To celebrate this moment together. And now, we are mourning an immeasurable loss.' Noting the creator of the street food sensation was the 'heart and soul of The Lunch Lady,' the late chef was referred to as 'a mother figure, a mentor, a quiet master of her craft.' 'To the world, she was The Lunch Lady. But to me, she was my aunt, my mentor, and someone I loved like family' said Tran in a news release. ' Today, we're mourning more than the loss of our founder. We're mourning her warmth, her generosity — the way she lit up a room without ever needing to speak. Her smile said everything. Her impact went far beyond food. She taught us to lead with care, to cook with soul, and to stay grounded in where we come from.' The Canadian restaurant team is working with Thanh's family to return her body to Vietnam where she will be laid to rest. 'In the meantime, our team is taking time to grieve, to reflect, and to hold space for everything she meant to us,' they shared on social media. The opening of the new Toronto location will be postponed. A new date will be shared by the team 'when the time feels right.' The Vancouver location, which has received three Michelin Bib Gourmand awards, will be closed May 21 for a day of mourning and to allow staff to mourn. Vigils will also be planned in both Vancouver and Toronto, according to The Lunch Lady Canada, with details such as date and locations to be announced. When operations return at the Canadian locations, Tran says the restaurant teams will carry her legacy, with gratitude. ' And with the same heart she brought to every bowl.'
