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Yahoo
28-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
MM6 Maison Margiela Fall 2025: Ramrod Shoulders to the Fore
Do you remember Esther Cañadas? Her demonstrative, prowling style of runway walking seems to be making a comeback, including at the MM6 show on Thursday night in Milan, where models slowly stalked the room, making eye contact with front-row guests — sort of — through their censor-bar sunglasses. Their leisurely pace meant that Ice Spice, who arrived 55 minutes late, could still catch the last half a dozen looks, while the rest of the audience had already spent 10 minutes appreciating the very fine tailoring on display. More from WWD LVMH Métiers d'Excellence and Thélios Launch Third Edition of Italian Craftsmanship Prize Hunter Schafer Pops in Pastels at Prada's Fall 2025 Fashion Show in Milan Venus Williams Embraces Shirtless Blazer Trend in Pink Suit and Kisses Partner Andrea Preti at Dsquared2's Fall 2025 Show in Milan They surely noticed vertical panels of silk lining fabric inserted in the back of some supersized wool coats and trenches, which could be gathered up for a more 'normal' silhouette. Enlarging and reducing wardrobe staples was the main idea this season, so there were also ultra narrow coats and suits with a fin of fabric running down the spine, reduced so much as to make it well-nigh impossible to close in front. Likewise reduced, jeans and dress pants came with extra seam allowance jutting out from the legs, giving pants a square aspect when viewed straight on. Other attempts at reduction, by trapping shirts and coats under tight tulle tops or dresses, seemed forced. This was a restrained MM6 collection, at times reminiscent of house founder Martin Margiela's celebrated tenure at Hermès, felt in the demure pencil skirts and boxy, austere tunics in taupe wool or camel-colored suede. Long leather gloves added a glamorous touch. Military shirts, lopped-off trenchcoats, cable-knit sweaters and striped polos were rigged with removable shoulder structures that gave familiar clothes a fierce, ramrod appearance. They looked cool and chic. Launch Gallery: MM6 Maison Margiela Fall 2025 Ready-To-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Yahoo
23-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Roksanda Fall 2025: Art and Craft
Roksanda Ilincic took to the skies once again, showing a collection filled with offbeat color combinations and oversized proportions on the 17th floor of Space House, the refurbished 1960s show venue in Covent Garden that has spectacular views — when it's not so cloudy. She drew inspiration from the late artist and sculptor Phyllida Barlow, who worked leftover, everyday materials such as cardboard, fabric, plywood and plaster into her large-scale works. In this age of sustainable fashion, and a make-do-and-mend mentality, especially among young people, Ilincic was spot on trend. More from WWD Penelope Tree Is Back on the Runway, and Will Walk for Fendi in Milan Stephen Jones Serves Up a Feast for the Senses for Fall 2025 London's Mayor Opens London Fashion Week Store The designer rooted around her studio and used leftover materials, mainly from her spring 2023 collection, to create the sculptural, abstract looks in the show's finale. Deadstock included melton wool (which she uses to line the inside collars of coats), paper, raffia, viscose and big, stiff squares of sponge. Skirts and tops fashioned from those floppy sponge panels seemed to float around the models' waists and necks, while ragged-edged fil coupe dresses, coats and tunic tops looked as if they were made from Silly String. Ilincic said she left those colorful fil coupe threads 'free and loose' so they could fall in all different ways and create different types of sculpture 'on their own.' The main collection had a similarly arty feel, with standout pieces including a sheer, floaty gown that was a patchwork of lavender, yellow and cornflower blue; and a lineup of lovely pink dresses, some of which were painted. Not all of the looks had such a light touch. Some of Ilincic's collaged creations were heavy-handed, including the dresses, headpieces and long belts made from layers of giant sequins that rustled as models walked. Oversize jackets with sheer black panels, and a fuzzy-backed coat, swamped the women wearing them, and looked almost comical at times. Those outsized proportions were more suited to the art — or sculpture — gallery, and will need a few tweaks before they hit the shop floor. Launch Gallery: Roksanda Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Yahoo
08-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Christian Cowan Fall 2025: Embarking on a Refresh
Christian Cowan is embarking on what he described as a 'big refresh' for fall 2025, opting to create a collection that centered on his creative expression rather than making styles for sale. 'As you develop your career as a designer, you get lots of opinions and advice whether you ask for it or not,' Cowan said. 'You get that within creative stuff and business as well and obviously we want to grow the brand. I'm really glad we were promoting sales-worthy party dresses, which I love doing, but I don't know whether they need to have a place in my show. I think that can exist within the brand and on e-commerce and our retailers, but our runway doesn't have to be what we sell.' More from WWD Celebrities Front Row at Christian Cowan Fall 2025: Sam Smith, Kesha, Cole Escola and More New York Men's Day Showcases Emerging and Established Designers Kesha Was a Sweet Surprise at YSL Beauty's Candy Club Party The designer stayed true to his campy, theatrical design codes for the collection, stating he wanted to bring a childlike spirit to the runway. He created several 'gum dresses,' which he made from silicone molds made to look like chewing gum splattered all over dresses, and several dresses embellished with high heels hanging off the skirts. While the looks were kitschy, they exuded Cowan's signature playfulness and whimsicality. The collection was also an homage to his late friend and investor Abbie McLaughlin. 'I love the spirit of this because [McLaughlin] was such a wildly creative person and so fun,' Cowan said. 'I think a lot of the spirit of this collection is taking from that childish creative spirit that she had, but it's this idea of being a child at home and you're playing with things and creating things and we've kind of taken that idea, but made it in a really amazing way.' Many styles leaned into craft and creativity, but Cowan still delivered new takes on his signature partywear, such as polka-dot corseted dresses with a peekaboo bra, a minidress made out of labels and a lingerie-style maxidress. The craft was balanced with thoughtful construction, especially through the manipulation of feathers. There were feather-embellished dresses with the material used to resemble swipes of lipstick, an ornate feather headpiece that wrapped around the model and dresses with feathers transformed into paillettes. Cowan's fall 2025 collection reflected the designer's playful spirit and camp roots, while showing a new, craft-like direction that will be exciting to see play out in coming seasons. Launch Gallery: Christian Cowan Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
