Latest news with #Oroarezzo


Forbes
28-05-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Made In Italy Jewelry And A Precious New Alloy Debut At Oroarezzo
The 44th edition of the Oroarezzo International Jewelry Exhibition took place in Arezzo from May 10 ... More to May 13 and was presented by the Italian Exhibition Group (IEG). While the world braced for impacts from U.S.-imposed tariffs, the international Oroarezzo jewelry fair presented its 44th edition from May 10 to May 14th in Arezzo, Italy. With 84 percent of exhibitors coming from Italy and visitors hailing from 100 countries. Oroarezzo's subtitle, 'Shaping Jewelry Ideas,' seems justified. Despite 2025's record-high gold prices and economic uncertainties, Oroarezzo highlighted how Italian jewelry designers and makers are responding to current challenges with the ingenuity and artisanal savoir-faire that has animated Made in Italy jewelry since Etruscan antiquity (700 B.C.) Oroarezzo 2025, staged by the Italian Exhibition Group (IEG) at Arezzo's Fiere e Congressi convention center, also featured a bustling Tech hall. Buzzing with latest generation manufacturing equipment and various time-saving technological tools, Oroarezzo's Tech Hall attracted designers and jewelry artisans en masee. While the four-day show saw foreign attendance increase by 9% this year over last, about 400 buyers from 60 countries were hosted through a partnership with the Italian Trade Agency and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation. Formulated by Legor Group in collaboration with Alessi Domenico and Diamonds de Canada, Modern ... More Electrum™ is a 21st century reinterpretation of electrum, an ancient, naturally occurring alloy. One of Oroarezzo's most internationally relevant highlights involved the debut of a Made in Italy precious metal alloy. Named Modern Electrum™, this material is luxurious-looking, hypoallergenic, highly resistant to oxidization, and it costs less per ounce than gold. Only time will tell if Modern Electrum™, developed by Alessi Domenico S. p. A. in collaboration with the Legor Group S.p. A. and Diamonds de Canada, re-shapes luxury jewelry, yet it does hold the potential to set new trends and gain market share. The result of research and development by Legor Group, an Italian company specializing in metals science and production, Modern Electrum™ was presented to this writer by Alice Alessi, part of the fourth generation leading Alessi Domenico. From May 10 to 13 in Arezzo, Oroareazzo' showcased fine jewelry, material and tech innovation, while ... More promoting dialogue between jewelry industry retail buyers, fashion media and creative artists. As Alessi related while presenting various chains made of Modern Electrum™, 'This precious alloy is designed as a 21st century reinterpretation of electrum, the naturally occurring gold and silver alloy that Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans used to create their fine jewels.' Comprised of gold, silver, platinum, rhodium and palladium, plus non-precious metals, Modern Electrum™ is free of nickel and copper. Its precious metals are all certified as 100 per cent sustainably sourced by the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). Alessi elaborated, 'Non-precious metals used in Modern Electrum™ are 100% recycled, guaranteeing a completely sustainable and traceable composition for every component.' Equally important, she added, 'Modern Electrum™ delivers high performance during production processes and is an excellent alloy in terms of its mechanical properties.' In other words, it's easy to work with. Oroarezzo's art director Beppe Angiolini chose "The Mirror of Time" as the theme for this year's ... More show, which featured designs created by artisans skilled in time-honored jewelry-making techniques. 'Whereas gold lends ductility and its rare radiance, silver contributes malleability and brilliance,' Alessi continued, 'Palladium lends elasticity and oxidation resistance to Modern Electrum™.' What's more, she added, 'To maximize aesthetic appeal and ensure greater durability by increasing resistance to wear and oxidation, Legor Group created two electroplating cycles for Modern Electrum™. These allow jewels to be created with either white or yellow finishes.' (The Lands Collection from Diamonds de Canada features diamonds set in Modern Electrum™.) Alessi Domenico is an Italian heritage company that specializes in fabricating luxurious chains in ... More precious metals, including the trademarked alloy Modern Electrum, which it helped develop. According to Legor Group president Massimo Polieri, 'These unique electroplating cycles utilizeonly precious metals, are completely free of nickel, cobalt and cyanides and are REACH compliant.' This last fact is important to sustainable-minded jewelry lovers and the retailers who serve them, for products or substances designated as REACH compliant meet the European Union (EU) Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) requirements. Consumers might also be interested to know that the E.U.'s REACH regulations, established in 2006, are designed to protect humans and the environment from potentially harmful chemicals. REACH compliance ensures that chemicals are properly registered, evaluated for risks, authorized for specific uses, and restricted if deemed too dangerous. Any discussion of Oroarezzo would be incomplete without noting that the United States is the second largest market for Arezzo and Italian gold and jewelry exports. While U.S. retail buyer attendance at Oroarezzo 2025 rose by 30 percent as compared to 2024, it was intriguing to observe which exhibitors drew the most buyers and designers from around the world. About 400 buyers from 60 countries were hosted at Oroarezzo through a partnership between the ... More Italian Trade Agency and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation. Made in Italy jewelry brands and manufacturers such as Arezzo-based Giordini s.r.l. FEMAR s.r.l. and UNOAERRE S.p.A presented electroformed (hollow) gold designs that attracted retail buyers and media from around the globe. As Giordana Giordini detailed, 'Electroforming is a complex procedure that requires numerous steps and the use of the latest generation machinery. This production technique,' she continued, 'is the only one that allows for the creation of voluminous, articulated shapes in gold or sterling silver that embody sculptural plasticity.' In the case of electroformed earrings, for example, their lightweight, hollow forms make them kinetically attractive, and comfortable to wear for hours on end. While Giordini is too discreet to say so, another major selling point of electroformed jewels is that they look luxurious while costing significantly less than solid gold or solid sterling silver pieces. These important details may account for why some designers traveled thousands of miles to Oroarezzo. As New York-based goldsmith and designer Barry Verragio, founder and CEO of Verragio Fine Jewelry explained, 'I came to Oroarezzo for the first time to form strategic partnerships with experts in innovative fabrication techniques like electroforming. For almost three decades, Verragio has been producing engagement rings, wedding bands and diverse fine jewelry collections for a design-driven, gold-savvy, sophisticated demographic. 'Our customers understand very well the composition of 18-karat gold,' Verragio observed. 'Constant emphasis in the news on rising gold prices has only reinforced the value of fine jewelry in their minds. Electroformed gold jewelry,' Verragio ventured, 'allows us to create bold pieces that are still comfortable and wearable. We're not positioning ourselves on price,' he stressed. Rather, with electroformed jewelry, it is Italian artisanal excellence 'and a look that we are pursuing. We're always looking for ways to create unique styles and bring the best craftsmanship to our clients,' Verragio related. In the realm of traditional high luxury jewelry, Benoi, a new brand on exhibit at Oroarezzo which launched at the Vicenzaoro show in January 2025, made a strong impression with one-of-a-kind statement pieces set with richly hued emeralds and diamonds. From dazzling diamond collars set with emeralds to circular blue titanium earrings twinkling with diamonds to flexible ceramic and diamond bracelets, Benoi offered a glamorous range of refined, red carpet-worthy jewels. During the 34th edition of Oroarezzo's Première competition, 58 Made in Italy jewelry brands vied ... More for design prizes in eight categories. Other creations exhibited at Oroarezzo that satisfy today's lifestyles, tastes and consumer demands included flexible and expandable 14-karat and 18-karat gold rings, bracelets and necklaces from various brands. Several brands this writer spoke with including Giordini, noted how ergonomic jewels such as these are easy to put on and remove as their flexibility eliminates clasps. What's more, they accommodate human bodies as they expand in response to temperature and health conditions. For those who prefer maximalism, however, 18-karat gold cuffs from Femar come in massive, smooth and gleaming, 18-karat gold forms that look like armorial adornments from a super-stylish tribe. (Femar won one of the categories in Oroarezzo's Première Made in Italy design competition for one of its exquisite cuffs.) Another Femar jewel of note consisted of a bold, 18-karat gold bangle that had been laser-cut with a Greek key motif, also known as the 'meander' or 'fret' pattern." This dates back to around 10,000 BC and has been used in jewelry and other art forms, since then. Featuring continuous, interlocking lines, the popular motif symbolizes infinity, the eternal nature of life, unity and bonds of loyalty. The Tech Hall at Oroarezzo presented new technologies, tools and equipment that can help streamline ... More jewelry production. Living up to Oroarezzo's subtitle, 'Shaping Jewelry Ideas,' the Tech Hall featured the Italian company Vidam Robots, which demonstrated its computerized, wheeled delivery robot that's fitted with trays. The robot that this writer observed can be used in manufacturing facilities to transport jewels, tools and more to artisans during various stages of production. Say for example that every two hours, an artisan produces 20 bracelets that are ready for polishing. Instead of walking the jewels to the other end of the factory to the polishing station and using up valuable time, the artisan places the bracelets in the robot's trays, and programs the robot to deliver them to the polisher. According to Vidam representatives, the robot can cover 20 kilometers, or 12.4274 miles, a day. Tying the whole Oroarezzo program together were various ceremonies, panel discussions and talks that featured industry leaders. For example, on Oroarezzo's opening day, Minister Matteo Piantedosi received a position paper created by various industry associations that highlighted urgent issues like security, regulatory streamlining, training, generational transition, and internationalization—all vital for continued success. The opening day also featured two major economic panels. The first, organized with Club degli Orafi Italia and Intesa Sanpaolo, addressed hot topics including tariff barriers, sustainability, and supply chain dynamics. The second, promoted by ICE and Yoodata, focused on opportunities for Italian jewelry in European markets. Italian jewelry in the Asian market was also covered with a dedicated session on Vietnamese jewelry demand, followed by Federpreziosi Confcommercio's Retail Observatory. As Oroarezzo's art director and President of the Première Design Competition jury Beppe Angiolini mused in his essay about the fair's theme, The Mirror of Time, "Time is a constantly changing reflection and the jewel becomes its witness…jewels can "reflect" not only light, but also emotions, personality, and style. Jewels are not only precious objects but also custodians of memory. Each reflection is a fragment of life." Encountering the myriad bejeweled treasures at Oroarezzo, one saw, touched and enjoyed the eternal creative power of great jewelry and the designers, artisans and manufacturers who create it.


Forbes
22-05-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Oroarezzo Première Competition Honors Made In Italy Jewelry Designs
58 jewelry companies that produce in Italy entered their designs in Oroarezzo's Première ... More competition, which was organized into eight different categories. Since the time of the ancient Etruscans, jewelry made in Italy has been highly valued for its design aesthetic, noble materials and artisanal excellence. Embodying the radiance of gold and other precious metals, made in Italy jewelry designs may also glitter with the brilliance of diamonds, colored gemstones-- and it might even shimmer with organic gems like pearls or coral. During the recent four-day Oroarezzo trade show in Arezzo, an array of new and highly refined made in Italy jewelry designs featured all of the above. The brands showing here presented new jewelry forms and concepts while also upholding Italian jewelry culture's commitment to design integrity, beauty and mater craftsmanship. Proposing that jewelry serves as 'the mirror of time,' Oroarezzo's art director Beppe Angiolini, owner and creative director of Arezzo's high concept boutique SUGAR, dreamed up this poetic theme, and also headed the jury for the Première design competition. This show-within-a-show presented 58 companies from Italy's most productive, artistically and technically advanced; hence internationally important jewelry districts. (These include Arezzo, Vicenza and Alessandria.) In his introductory notes to Première, Angiolini noted that Time is fluid, ever-changing, and jewelry, worn over lifetimes and handed down across generations, often serves as a kind of mirror or microcosmic memento of one's time on Earth. Organized by the Italian Exhibition Group (IEG), the 44th edition of the Oroarezzo show presented jewelry as a literal embodiment of emotion, and as a metaphorical mirror of time, by placing a massive, mirrored cube in front of the Arezzo Fiere e Congressi convention center. This mirrored sentinel greeted visitors with shimmering reflections of themselves as they entered and exited the event. Once inside the exhibition halls, Oroarezzo attendees encountered smaller mirrored cubes in the walkways between the exhibitor booths. These were variously inscribed with philosophical musings about life, beautiful sensations and majestic moments that, according to Angiolini, embody the essence of jewelry. Winning jewelry designs at Oroaezzo's Première competition were announced by Grazia Editor-in-Chief ... More Silvia Grilli. Upon entering the convention hall, visitors viewed the competition's 58 entries in the carefully illuminated display case in the Oroarezzo welcome lounge. Award winners in eight categories were decided upon by an international jury of jewelry experts, journalists and opinion leaders. The award ceremony was presided over by Silvia Grilli, editor-in-chief of the eminent Italian fashion magazine, Grazia. When Marianna Maddaluna, a young art school student from Sansepolcro's G. Giovagnoli Institute was announced as the winner of the 'Talents' category, she accepted the Première mirrored cube award weeping tears of joy. (Thanks to a collaboration between Oroarezzo and an Arezzo jewelry manufacturer, Maddaluna will see her rendering fashioned into a piece of jewelry by master artisans.) This wonderful opportunity will come to full flower when Maddaluna's finished jewel is unveiled at the Italian Jewelry Summit that IEG is presenting in Arezzo in December 2025. FEATURED | Frase ByForbes™ Unscramble The Anagram To Reveal The Phrase Pinpoint By Linkedin Guess The Category Queens By Linkedin Crown Each Region Crossclimb By Linkedin Unlock A Trivia Ladder In Angiolini's conception, the 'Mirror of Time' category of the competition refers to those jewels that are keepers and markers of memories, as well as precious adornments; emotional talismans. Awards in this realm went to a bracelet by Maria De Toni and a ring by Moraglione 1922. In the 'Infinite Light' category, light was understood by Angiolini to be an optical, physical and emotional force that we all experience, yet light is also an element to be employed with artistry and technical savoir-faire in jewelry. The jury chose to award bracelets by Luiber and Mosca Guido. The 'Precious Reflections' category referenced how mirrors can reflect light and shadows, as well as the thoughts of jewelry creators and jewelry wearers. As Angiolini noted in conversation with this writer, 'Every reflection is a fragment of life.' Première's jury selected bracelets by Gold Art and Graziella Braccialini for this category. For the 'Past, Present and Future' category, jewelry designs that express strong emotions were requested. As Angiolini explained, 'A jewel is more than an adornment, it is a refined object that contains narrative elements, which include the past from which it takes inspiration, the present time in which it is created, and the future it imagines.' Awards went to bracelets by Anima, Biz and Patros. The 'Glamour' category focused on jewelry that most keenly interprets the fashion world's mood of the moment. The winning design was an intriguing and utterly timeless necklace by Arezzo-based Kitty Jewellery that featured five tiny, heart-shaped mirrors stationed on fine gold chain; separated by amethyst beads. The 'Iconic Design' category awarded innovative aesthetics, artisanal brilliance and novel contributions to jewelry culture. A massive 18-karat gold cuff by Femar, founded by brothers Pasquale and Santi Barneschi in 1991, received this prize, and deservedly so, as this gracefully sculpted form is an iconic form and concept. Appropriately, the 'Art and Sculpture' category concerned itself with architectural jewelry that continues the "wearable sculpture" trend. The jury chose a gold ring by Giordini. As Giordana Giordini explained to this writer, " Giordini jewels are made with electro-forming, a procedure that requires numerous steps and the use of latest-generation machinery. This technique allows us to create voluminous, yet extremely light jewelry that is highly sculptural and comfortable to wear." As it happens, Ms. Giordini is also the District President of Confindustria goldsmiths, and thus a principal executive in the Italian jewelry industry. The winning award in the "Timeless jewelry' category went to a gold UNOAERRE brooch. UNOARRE, which was founded in 1926, is based in Arezzo and is one of Italy's largest producers, distributors and exporters of gold and silver jewelry.


Forbes
28-04-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Oroarezzo Shapes New Jewelry In Its 44th Edition May 10th To May 13th
From May 10th through 12th, 2025, Oroarezzo is open to attendees from 9:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. On May ... More 13th, 2025, it is open from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Amidst skyrocketing gold prices, global economic and geopolitical uncertainties, the jewelry industry prepares for one of its most consequential annual events: Oroarezzo, which showcases Italian jewelry design and made-in-Italy gold and silver jewelry excellence, along with goldsmithing companies from Turkey and Spain. Presented by Italian Exhibition Group (IEG), 'Oroarezzo 2025 will embody an expanded exhibition layout as compared to last year's,' said Matteo Farsura, IEG's division head of Fashion and Jewellery. The 44th edition of the business-to-business Oroarezzo show will take place at Arezzo Fiere e Congressi from May 10th to May 13th in Arezzo, Tuscany. Oroarezzo highlights how Made in Italy jewels, plus Made in Italy gold and silver chains all embody ... More the country's tradition of luxe materials and artisanal excellence. While the show's tagline is 'Shaping Jewelry Ideas', Oroarezzo welcomes a rarefied selection of international jewelry and accessory buyers from the most strategic and mature markets for Made in Italy exports. In addition, it attracts buyers from countries with potentials that have yet to be fully realized. For these and other reasons, Oroarezzo continues to be an important platform for the fashion industry. The four-day trade fiesta includes exhibitors specializing in processes and technologies that produce jewelry as well as such fashion accessories as belts, handbags, etc. Like jewelry, other upmarket accessories often embody luxury design codes, precious metals and other valuable materials. In addition, many other upmarket accessories are also made according to technically precise, artisanally advanced standards. Oroarezzo's relevance to the global jewelry industry is also embodied in 'Precious Fashion'. This carefully programmed event is dedicated to supplying metal accessories supply chain professionals with evidence-based data and actionable insights for consideration plus strategies and tactics for potential use. Taking place on May 12 in the Arezzo Fiere e Congressi, the 'Precious Fashion' program titled Maximalism and Competitiveness: Opportunities and Challenges for the Fashion Accessories Supply Chain, will attempt to answer such urgent questions as: How is the upsurge of maximalist design and rising gold costs affecting planning and conceptualization of jewelry collections? What technologies can be employed to make beautiful, lightweight, yet resilient gold jewelry? How and where will fashion brands evolve in the next five years, and what will they expect from the supply chain? According to Matteo Farsura, IEG's Global Exhibition Manager for Jewellery and Fashion, Oroarezzo ... More 2025 will embody an expanded exhibition layout that includes six distinct zones. FEATURED | Frase ByForbes™ Unscramble The Anagram To Reveal The Phrase Pinpoint By Linkedin Guess The Category Queens By Linkedin Crown Each Region Crossclimb By Linkedin Unlock A Trivia Ladder 'The six distinct sectors of Oroarezzo 2025,' Farsura explained, 'will provide retail buyers, manufacturers and others with rich opportunities for making new design discoveries, learning about advanced manufacturing technologies and connecting with industry professionals.' IEG reports that the 2024 edition drew just over 400 high-profile international buyers from 60 countries. Attendance figures totaled 11,550 visitors from 109 countries, with a 14% increase in foreign attendance. 'Last year's edition saw a 5% increase in overall visitation compared to the previous year,' said Farsura. Oroarezzo, it should be noted, does far more than unite made-in-Italy jewelry companies with top-tier luxury buyers from 60-odd countries. The show also attracts jewelry and fashion reporters, opinion leaders and influencers who then disseminate jewelry Images, videos and feature articles online and in print media. Seen, studied and/or saved by the world's jewelry and fashion retailers and consumers, Oroarezzo stories and images make impacts that are difficult to quantify, yet nevertheless affecting consumer purchasing decisions. Oroarezzo's program includes 'Precious Fashion', an event dedicated to the metal accessories supply ... More chain that delivers evidence-based data, and potential strategies for success. According to Farsura, the six zones of the Oroarezzo fair include Goldsmith and Jewelry Creation,where artisanal and contemporary designs from Italy's finest heritage houses, independent and global brands will be presented. Inside of Semi-finished Products and Components, goldsmiths and manufacturers will be able to find everything from mountings to clasps. As the realm of Tech Innovations presents cutting-edge machinery and technologies that are revolutionizing jewelry production, this area promises to attract designers, international jewelry brands and manufacturers. Oroarezzo includes exhibitors that offer new opportunities for key players in the Made in Italy and ... More international jewelry and technology sectors. As David Brough, editor and publisher of the global jewelry trade magazine Jewellery Outlook noted, 'The trade is grappling with the impact of soaring gold prices, which have hit a series of all-time highs lately. Buyers will need to be in close contact with manufacturers to ensure that gold jewelry is crafted as efficiently as possible at a time of buoyant bullion prices.' Brough ventured that, 'Some manufacturers may offer lower purities of gold jewelry while deploying the latest technologies, including electro-forming, to reduce gold weight in designs.' In the Cash & Carry realm of Oroarezzo, retailers will be able to purchase an array of finished pieces on the spot, while a treasure trove of colorful and rare gems plus high-grade gemstones for designers and manufacturers will animate the Precious and Semi-Precious Gemstones area. Fashion Accessories and Packaging will be a showcase for innovative bejeweled accessories plus new and novel solutions for packaging. Myriad packaging forms and concepts from various suppliers are on offer in one of Oroarezzo's six ... More zones. Wherever they go in Oroarezzo, Farsura promises, 'Foreign buyers will see and feel a vast catalogue of made-in-Italy gold and silver jewels, along with jewelry containing precious stones. They will view an array of the most advanced, top-quality technologies.' Also important, Farsura continued, 'Oroarezzo provides the chance to speak with companies so as to plan or design new products and collections for the second half of the year. IEG,' he observed, 'considers Oroarezzo and its relationship to the Arezzo area as fundamentally important.' (Together with organizers in Arezzo, IEG has prepared a program of professional and cultural events that are taking place during the show.) With support from the Italian Trade Agency (ITA), Orozrezzo also generates cultural messaging that reaffirms Italy's commitment to upholding and enhancing its renowned jewelry heritage. (The history of made-in-Italy gold jewelry stretches back to the Etruscan civilization, which flourished from 8th century B.C. to the 2nd century B.C., in what is now Central Italy. Etruscan jewelry, particularly from the 7th to 5th centuries B.C., embodied labor-intensive, highly precise and intricate artisanal techniques such as granulation, filigree and repoussée.) The Oroarezzo program also features dynamic data-based panel discussions animated by jewelry ... More industry experts. Past and present glories of made-in-Italy jewelry shine especially bright during Oroarezzo's annual Première design competition. This aims to recognize and promote the productive and creative excellence of "Made in Italy" jewelry by showcasing original, one-of-a-kind creations based on a theme. The theme of this year's competition is 'Mirror of Time', and it's curated by Oroarezzo's Art Director and Jury President, Beppe Angiolini. The jewels designed and crafted for 'Mirror of Time' will be displayed in two large showcases at the center of the 'Chimera' pavilion, facilitating visitors' contemplation. The 'Mirror of Time' theme encourages designers to create jewels that mark significant moments in time, or tell stories of far longer duration. Referencing the show's theme, Angiolini noted in an IEG press release, 'A jewel is more than just a precious object, it's also a keeper of memories.' Angiolini is the owner and founder of the Arezzo multi-brand luxury boutique, SUGAR, founded in 1978. His Première jury is comprised of industry experts, journalists, bloggers, fashion influencers, and style authorities. The 'Mirror of Time' theme also references how certain jewelry materials, such as gold and platinum, are of ancient and extraterrestrial origin. (Scientists believe gold and platinum hurtled to earth in meteorite bombardments about 3.9 billion years ago.) Likewise, the competition's elemental theme encourages use of materials and techniques that amplify effects of light while suggesting purity and clarity. This writer looks forward to seeing whether jewels created for the 'Mirror of Time' contest will enchant with mirrored materials, highly polished metals, scintillating gemstones, crystals or hyper-bright facets. Will kinetic elements that catch the light as they move on the wearer's body also come into play? Winners will be announced at the Première award ceremony on Sunday, May 11. At Oroarezzo, foreign buyers encounter a vast catalogue of made-in-Italy gold and silver jewels and ... More view numerous examples of the most advanced, top-quality technologies. As Farsura explained, 'Première celebrates how ancient Italian traditions of artisanal excellence are expressed in 21st century jewelry and also looks to the future. Along with the main competition,' he related, 'Première's Talents category returns for its third year in a row. This is for students from Italian goldsmith schools and young designers under 30. The winning project will be crafted and presented at the Italian Jewelry Summit in December, thanks to support from Italian partner companies. 'Première is the creative heart of Oroarezzo,' Farsura mused. 'This competition supports and promotes Italian jewelry design and craftsmanship while connecting generations of artisans with emerging talents.' Connecting these creators with the world's most important jewelry and fashion retailers, ultimate beneficiaries of Oroarezzo and its Première competition seem destined to include jewelry shoppers as well as the narrative of jewelry history.