01-06-2025
A Miscellany Of New Italian Wine Releases
The vineyards of San Lorenzo in Italy's Dolomite Mountains.
With summer on the wing, one yearns for outdoor dining and perhaps a bit more adventurous spirit when it comes to drinking wines. Here are several Italian wines I like very much and give good bang for the buck.
Its Germanic name is due to Kaltern's vineyards on the border of Austria.
KALTERN KALTERERSEE CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2024 ($14). True, it doesn't sound very Italian but this splendid red wine is made in Alto-Adige in the north, from vineyards around Lake Kaltern from Alpine Schiava grapes (called Tollinger in Austria). The vintage weather was perfect and allowed for early ripening. With just 12.5% alcohol., it is recommended as an apéritif with light foods, but I found it delicious with grilled chicken and vegetable-based pastas.
FAMIGLIA COTARELLA FERENANO BIANCO LAZIO 2119 ($25). Named after the ancient Etruscan town of Ferento in Lazio, this 100% Roscetto (similar to Trebbiano and Greco) uses grapes from planting averaging 17 years of age. Vinified in stainless steel and oak tanks after an eight-hour cryomaceration, it then spends four months in French oak and six months aging. It emerges at an alcohol level of 12.7%, making it an easy to drink wine with lots of tropical fruit notes, very good with dishes like salmon, branzino and Gorgonzola cheese.
Bolla is one of the oldest Veneto wineries making a classic Amarone.
BOLLA AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2018 ($56). This was the first Amarone I ever had, way back in the 1970s, and I was impressed with its big, leathery, slightly sweet flavor that is a classic profile of this Veneto wine. Since then Amarones have become lighter and less distinctive, but Bolla's blend of Corvina and Rondinella still maintains the boldness of the wine, making it excellent with red meat on the grill and in autumn with venison.
VIGNE SURRAU SCIALA VERMENTINO DI GALLURA SUPERIORE 2022 ($29). 'Sciala' comes from an Arabic word for an abundant harvest, and this is a prime example of Sardinian Vermentino , made by Mariolino Siddi, planted in sandy, granite-rich soil that provides minerality. Aged for six months, it is released with 14% alcohol. The Demuro family produces about 90,000 bottles. Ideal with linguine with clam sauce.
OLIANAS VERMENTINO DI SARDEGNA 2023 ($20). Here's another fine Sardinian Vermentino, this from the southern region of Sarcidano. The Olianas estates' 35 hectares of vineyards are planted exclusively with native Sardinian grape varieties such as Cannonau, Vermentino, Tintillu, Nasco, Bovale and Carignano. This Vermentino comes from the Murvonis vineyard with a clay loam texture and the Porruddu vineyard, with a dark brown loam texture soil and sandy marl. About 20% of the grapes are harvested slightly in advance and allowed to ferment with maceration on the skins. The result is a complex example of this all-too-often bland varietal.
This is a Tuscan IGT wine made from 100% Cabernet Franc.
TENUTA CASADEI FILARE 18 2022 ($65). An IGT venture by Tuscan Stefano Casadei and Californian Fred Cline, both dedicated to organic crops. The wine is from the estate in Suvereto, made from 100% Cabernet Franc planted in 1999 and grown on medium texture soil. Spontaneous fermentation and maceration take place within tburied amphorae, and the wine is then aged in new French oak barriques for 18 to 20 months. The producers say this has a potential to age for twenty years but I found is very good now in its youth especially as an accompaniment to pork.
'VETTE' DI SAN LEONARDO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2024 ($25). Sauvignon Blanc is not rare in Italy though vintners have only recently been making examples that show off Italian rather than New World terroir, in this case from the Dolomites. The estate, since 2012 run by Anselmo Guerrieri Gonzaga, is known for its Bordeaux-like blends but the Sauvignon Blanc 'Vette' ('peaks') comes from a high elevation site to the north of the winery, vinified in stainless steel and aged on fine lees for five months. It has just enough vegetal flavor, kept in balance with its acids and floral components.
Livio Felluga has long been one of the premier white winemakers of northern Italy.
LIVIO FELLUGA FRIULANO SIGAR ($63). Long among the finest producers of Italy, Livio Felluga named this wine after his enjoyment of a cigar while inspecting his Rosazzo estate in the evening. Today, the 500-acre winery is led by Livio's son, Andrea. Vines were planted in 1963. The grapes are hand-picked and undergo maceration on the
skins for a few hours, then racked into terracotta jars towards the end of alcoholic fermentation, to permit proper temperature control. There is a fine citrus and aroma of herbs, making it wonderful with all seafood.
