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The Guardian
25-05-2025
- Entertainment
- The Guardian
Winsome, Manchester M1: ‘The new, big, generous beating heart of Manchester hospitality' – restaurant review
Winsome has been much anticipated on the Manchester food scene, not least because chef Shaun Moffat was pretty much the toast of the town during his time as executive chef at the Edinburgh Castle gastropub in nearby Ancoats. Rather than being attractive in a sweet, innocent way, as the restaurant's name suggests, Moffat's style – or swagger, to be more precise – is elegant but plentiful modern British cooking, featuring a scoop of Fergus Henderson, a nod to Mark Hix, a dash of London's Quality Chop House and a teeny touch of Toby Carvery. The Guardian's journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more. Think meaty things, saucy things, big bowls of crunchy roast spuds and exquisite oversized yorkshire puddings. Pork with rhubarb ketchup and freshly baked parker house rolls to drag through warm butter or hollandaise. Asparagus with a dippy egg for starters, or mussels and trotters on toast. Bread-and-butter pudding with brandy custard. You get the gist. This is Cool Britannia wearing a napkin bib with a side portion of rhubarb jelly and custard for pudding. But Winsome is far from a novelty restaurant. Yes, there are little playful touches here and there – dino egg cups, cow-shaped gravy boats and school dinner puddings – but it's all done in such a sleek, cool and pared-back way. Moffat may be a hugely experienced chef, but this is his first proper bricks-and-mortar venture, working with Owain Williams, who, among many other restaurants, launched Liverpool's rather brilliant Belzan, and Tom Fastiggi, ex head bartender at Manchester's bold, glitzy Schofield's. Winsome has taken over a large, cool, airy space clamped to the side of Whitworth Locke, one of those new-fangled co-working/hotel/gymnasium/cocktail bar/leisure/third spaces populated by bright young things on laptops. What is it exactly? An apparthotel? A cult headquarters? Never mind all that, this restaurant stands fully alone, so let's just concentrate on Winsome. It is from the outset an attractive and lovable room, with a large open kitchen down one side and blue-aproned staff serving trays of sbagliatos and breakfast martinis laced with Duerr's marmalade. Tables are large and well spaced, and topped with pale tablecloths topped with pale paper, presumably to protect the linen from spills. No such luck with us. Perhaps your family can share a platter of cylindra beetroot in goat's curd without someone leaving a CSI Manchester crime scene smear; mine was not so successful. 'I do apologise,' I told the staff as we gave back the empty plate after a feast of Tewkesbury courgettes in a glut of excellent olive oil that we'd spilled rather dramatically while grabbing our fair share. There's something about Moffat's cooking, however fine and highfalutin it may seem to be, that lends itself to the sheepish dry-cleaning of blouses. A plate of Brixham crab came with celeriac remoulade and a whole heap of mustard cress that weirdly reminded me of growing the stuff back at primary school. Another starter of incredibly rich fried wild mushrooms and shallots on a slick of well-seasoned pease pudding was similarly deeply nostalgic. For mains, we shared a whole john dory, cooked perfectly and served in a pool of pale green pie shop liquor, and a Creedy Carver assiette of duck featuring rare breast, rendered skin and a jug of rich duck jus. It was a Sunday, so both came with all the Sunday lunch trimmings, which here involve cartoon-esque XL yorkshire puddings, carrot puree, roast parsnips and a thick piece of trencher bread topped with stewed beef shin in ale. This is confident, clever cooking that stays just the right side of earnest, or at least as earnest as a chef can be when he also serves up a dessert that is essentially a 1980s school sponge pudding with a scoop of milk ice-cream flecked with multicoloured sprinkles, or hundreds and thousands as they will for ever be known in my heart. In a further nod to the sainted Fergus Henderson, right at the end of the meal eccles cakes are offered with slices of St Sunday's cheese from Cumbria. Winsome may well be my new favourite restaurant, and it's the new, big, generous beating heart of Manchester hospitality. It's classy but come-all – bring your gran, bring your baby, no one need feel conspicuous. There's something about the place that makes me want to use it as a canteen, not least out of sheer curiosity as to what Moffat will put on the menu next. Great cooking, and forward-thinking fine dining without any of the faff. Bring your appetite and don't wear pale colours. Aaah, Manchester, you have so much to answer for. Winsome will seriously impact your waistline. Winsome 74 Princess Street, Manchester M1 (no phone). Open lunch Thurs-Sun noon-3pm (8pm Sun), dinner Mon-Sat 5-11pm. From about £60 a head for three courses; Sun lunch £35 for two courses, £39 for three, all plus drinks and service


Wales Online
24-05-2025
- Wales Online
'Truly beautiful adventurer' in coma after crash
'Truly beautiful adventurer' in coma after crash Owain Williams remains in a critical condition and was only saved by a passerby who stopped the bleeding until medical help arrived Owain Williams, 23, was involved in a serious car accident A young man remains in a critical condition after a one-vehicle accident near Criccieth, Gwynedd, on May 8. A passerby saved the life of Owain Williams, 23, who stopped the bleeding from his neck. Family and friends have been left devastated. They described Owain as "truly beautiful" and an "adventurer", who remains in a coma following the crash. A passerby played a pivotal role saving Owain's life by stopping the bleeding until a local specialist doctor arrived to assist at the scene. Owain was airlifted to Stoke major trauma unit and has since been transferred to critical care, where he remains in a coma and his condition uncertain. His partner Arianna was also present during the accident but fortunately was not seriously hurt. His family and friends, from Blaenau Ffestiniog and Porthmadog, are now raising funds for the trauma unit as well as brain injury organisations. See the fundraising page here. Sign up for our free daily briefing on the biggest issues facing the nation sign up to the Wales Matters newsletter here. The family's fundraising message reads: "It breaks our heart as a family to share the tragic news that Owain was involved in a very serious car accident earlier this month.", reports North Wales Live. Article continues below "After the incident, he was airlifted to Stoke Hospital where he remains in critical care. Without going into too much detail he has suffered a traumatic brain injury (TBI). He has undergone emergency brain surgeries following the accident to mitigate the spread of brain damage. He also suffered other serious injuries." They said Owain is cherished by many including his parents Karl Williams and Beverley Griffiths, step-parents Einir and Eiddon, beloved sisters Melangell, Rhiannedd, Ela, and Mari, alongside his devoted partner Arianna. The appeal added: "He is a true adventurer, someone who embraces life with open arms and a heart full of hope even when faced with adversity in his life. He has so much life left to live and love to give and so many dreams to chase. "The road ahead will be long and challenging. While much of Owain's condition and recovery prognosis is still unclear, the magnitude of his injury is heartbreaking. We would like to thank all the emergency services that initially responded to the incident and to all the staff working tirelessly at the critical care unit - you are all an inspiration and we are so very grateful. "Anyone who knows Owain will know how truly beautiful he is both on the outside and inside. We are reaching out to family, friends and anyone moved by his story. We need your help to give him the best possible care and give him every chance of recovery. "Donations for this cause will go towards the transport and accommodation costs for immediate family to be by Owain's side through this process, rehabilitation care and required equipment and home accessibility and safety improvements. Donations will also be given to the Critical Care Unit at Stoke University Hospital and Brain Injury charities." Article continues below You can support the fundraiser here.