21-04-2025
Where To Eat And Drink In Old Town Phuket, According Hotel Verdigris' Owner
Pichakorn "Peach" Phanichwong, owner of Hotel Vrerdigris.
In 2023, I passed by Hotel Verdigris in Old Town Phuket—a Mr & Mrs Smith-vetted boutique stay (my personal trusted source for cool hotels) that looked like the perfect place to hole up for a long weekend. I flagged it for my return, and earlier this year, I finally made it back. This soulful part of Phuket is dotted with colorful Sino-Portuguese shophouses, hidden temples, a vibrant art scene, and plenty of amazing restaurants and bars.
Hotel Verdigris feels like stepping into an 18th-century dreamscape—an ode to Martina Rozells, Penang's enigmatic Thai-Portuguese First Lady. Its owner, Pichakorn 'Peach' Phanichwong, describes the vibe as 'contemporary Eurasian with hints of old-world opulence.' I opted for the Billon Room, designed with solo travelers in mind (and Peach's personal favorite), featuring herringbone parquet floors, brightly colored kimono-style robes, and my favorite amenity: a balcony with a built-in terrazzo bathtub that looks up to the sky and down onto a koi pond.
Hotel Verdigris
The next day, Peach took me on a walk around town that included ร้านขนมแม่หงวด (Mae Nguad), where she handed me a bag of fried meatballs so I could walk, talk, and dip simultaneously. 'Delicious,' I screeched. Over snacks, we talked food, travel, and how she got into the hotel world. 'For me, travel isn't about checking off landmarks—it's about discovering how people live,' she said. 'I'm drawn to the rhythm of local life: what people eat, how they go about their day, and the small, everyday details that reveal the soul of a place.'
Billon Room at Hotel Verdigris
If you're a boutique hotel person like me, you'll appreciate the charm and personality of Hotel Verdigris. 'Boutique hotels reflect the spirit of their surroundings in a way that feels authentic and personal—through design, food, and hospitality,' says Phanichwong. 'Creating one here felt like a way to celebrate my roots and share that experience with others.'
'This part of town is still very much alive—we locals come here for dinner, drinks, coffee, and slow evening strolls,' she adds. 'I wanted to create a space where guests could be part of that rhythm. Not just a visitor, but a part of Phuket Town, even if only for a little while.'
Hotel Verdigris.
One of my favorite things? Breakfast. 'When I travel, I skip the standard hotel breakfast and search for those hidden local gems—the real flavor,' says Peach. 'So this is the kind of experience I've always wanted to offer guests: a chance to taste the city the way I do.'
Dim sum at breakfast; Hotel Verdigris.
Guests can go classic—croissants, eggs, the usual comforts—or take Peach's advice and order from her personal 'Peach-elin Guide,' a selection of beloved local spots where Phuketians actually eat. Think dim sum, rice soup, rice salad, noodles with curry—dishes that reflect Phuket's unique culinary identity.
The most popular is Siu Boi, Phuket-style dim sum. 'Even Thai guests from other regions ask for it,' she says. The secret is in the Nam Chor dipping sauce: not as spicy as it looks, but rich with dried chilies, tamarind juice, and a blend of seasonings—totally different from the usual vinegar dip. The dim sum comes from a local institution that opens at 5 a.m. and usually sells out by 8. 'Our team picks it up fresh, reheats it for hygiene, and serves it when guests wake up,' Peach explains. 'So yes, you can have a 7 a.m. breakfast at 10, right here in the sunroom.'
A local snack shop with no written menu, serving daily desserts, fried meatballs, and authentic Phuket coconut milk fried rice-noodles. 'My favorite, though, is Hoo Chae, a classic Phuket-style salad made with a mix of fresh and boiled vegetables, egg, and crispy noodles, all topped with Nam Chor, a signature dressing that brings sweet, salty, sour, and spicy together in one bite.'
The Charm Dining Gallery.
Go here with friends and order the entire menu. It's traditional Phuket food reminiscent of home-cooked meals. 'This place will always be at the top of my list, simply because they make food exactly like lunch at my grandma's. I always order the Pla Tau Eu, fried fish braised in soy sauce with garlic. And it's not just the taste they get right, they also never compromise on the freshness of their ingredients.'
Phanichwong spent a few years in Melbourne and still thinks often of its distinct, multicultural food scene. 'Having a taste of that here in Phuket, especially from Chef Nattaphon 'Oat' Othanawathakij—who also lived in Melbourne—feels extra meaningful. With fresh local ingredients and Australian-inspired touches, it's just nice to have a little bit of Melbourne at home once in a while.'
Surf & Turf by Soul Kitchen.
I cut my flight close, wrapping up Old Town Phuket with a final dinner from Chef Tom Köffers and Peach. Originally from Germany, Köffers infuses Thai flavors with a European touch. 'He cooks every dish himself, so he's always there. In Phuket Town, even the architecture reflects our history as a Eurasian crossroads, and this place captures that spirit beautifully. One great example is his take on Hor Mok, the classic Phuket fish curry cake, reimagined to reflect East meets West. Or the prawn carpaccio with a subtle hint of Laab—chef's kiss.'
A-Pong is a heavenly Phuket-style coconut pancake, cooked over charcoal with coconut milk, rice flour, and palm sugar. Phanichwong describes it as 'light, slightly chewy in the center, and crisp around the edges—all in one bite.' The recipe traces back to Indian appam, brought to Phuket through old trading routes. 'Locals made it thinner, sweeter, and uniquely ours. I love introducing it to my friends from Bangkok—not just because they can't find it there, but because most have never even heard of it.'
Restaurant Royd.
A creative reinterpretations of classic Southern Thai dishes made with local produce by way of the talented Chef Mond Suwijak Kunghae in an imtinamte but unpretentious space .'He celebrates Southern Thai cuisine with pride, and modern thoughtful approach. Sometimes fine dining can get so experimental that you lose sight of the original dish, but he manages to preserve the true flavors, even when the presentation looks nothing like the traditional version.
This is a personal favorite for Phanichwong. 'I make it a point to visit local markets whenever I travel—they tell me the most about how people really live and eat. You can see what's in season, what people cook at home, and get a feel for the rhythm of daily life. In Phuket, the Downtown Market is that place. Locals have gone there for fresh fruits, vegetables, and everyday ingredients for as long as I can remember.'
There are no shortages of great afés in Phuket. 'I have to give a special shoutout to Dou Brew. It's been there for me since the beginning, before the café scene really blew up in Phuket Town. Whether I'm craving a solid espresso, a clean filter brew, or feeling funky with their flavored dirty coffee inspired by local desserts, Dou Brew always hits the spot.'
Coolies Club.
'Phuket has lived through many eras, and the tin mining period was especially important—it's what turned the area into a hub for trade. My grandfather even owned a tin mine, so that history feels personal, and Coolies Club captures the heritage well. The concept is inspired by a place where miners would unwind after work, with food and cocktails that focus on smoky flavors, which I absolutely love. The space has so much character with its eclectic interior.'
'Torry's has become synonymous with ice cream in Phuket and plays a big role in keeping our sweet traditions alive. I always come back to their Si Tau So, a local spin on cookies and cream. If you've stayed at my hotel, you might recognize the cookie from the minibar jar—Phuket's take on the classic Chinese walnut cookie. Torry's also serves flavors inspired by other local desserts like O-Aew jelly and Bi Ko Moi black glutinous rice.'
'I'm drawn to places that are a little obsessed with what they do—and it shows. Ryn is one of those spots where you instantly feel the care behind everything, from the wide variety of teas and brewing methods to the really great sweet treats that go with it.'
