07-05-2025
Oregon's Best Chardonnay May Be Coming From Yamhill-Carlton
Penner-Ash Chardonnay is made in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. Penner-Ash
When one thinks of Oregon wine, of course Pinot Noir comes to mind. It was one of the earliest calling cards of the region, and a varietal that is still special from the state.
Oregon also hasn't been shy about its uptick in Chardonnay production in recent years. The state, especially the Willamette Valley, has been pumping out some delicious, world-class Chardonnay, even though a lot of producers are more new to the game. In a short time, this grape has shifted the winds for winemakers in the region; and the best Chadonnay may be coming from the Yamhill-Carlton AVA.
'The growth seems exponential,' says Kate Ayres, winemaker at Penner-Ash. 'We only entered the Chardonnay game in 2017, but have seen so many vineyards plant Chardonnay or expand since that time, including us with the grafting over of several blocks to Chardonnay in recent years. California has always been at the forefront of the conversation around domestic Chardonnay, so it's great to see Oregon getting so much positive recognition.'
Brian O'Donnell, owner of Belle Pente Vineyard & Winery, echoes this sentiment, explaining that Chardonnay has come up pretty quickly in recent years, but Yamhill-Carlton's renditions have already set itself apart from others in the Willamette Valley as well as other American Chardonnay.
'We haven't spent as much time getting really serious and diving deep into Chardonnay as we have Pinot Noir. So it's really only been the last 10 years or so that people are getting serious about it,' he says,
What makes Yamhill-Carlton special as an AVA, notes say winemakers, is its position and terroir. Patrick Reuter, winemaker at Domino IV Wines, notes that Yamhill-Carlton has a convex hillside tilting to the Northeast. 'We can capture a lot of morning sunshine when temperatures are low and protect against midday heat,' he says.
O'Donnell notes that the soil itself also makes this section of the Valley unique, as it is made up of marine sedimentary soils, like sandstone. This, he explains, gives the wines a hint of salinity and minerality that make them brighter and seemingly a bit more fresh. 'Aromatically, they smell a little bit like a sea breeze,' he adds.
The site that Penner-Ash has, Ayres says, is up against the coastal mountains, which causes fluctuations in temperature. 'This translates to steady fruit development, really great acid retention, and slower sugar accumulation, creating a nicely balanced Chardonnay,' she says.
Additionally, the warm, dry climate and ability of the valley to hold heat has been one of the key benefits to the area's Chardonnay production, O'Donnell says, making the varietal show up as a bit more rich than other American Chardonnay, and its flavors are a bit more nuanced than those out of other areas.
'We get a little more the tropical characteristics overlaying onto the onto the citrus components,' he adds. 'The thing I love about Yamhill-Carlton is that it strikes a nice balance between freshness and richness.'
Adds Ayers, 'The winemakers up here have spent many years fine-tuning clones, areas of development, and winemaking to make world class Chardonnay. I think the intensity, freshness, and purity of the Chardonnay coming from Oregon sets it apart from our counterparts.'
However, whether visiting or sipping at home Reuter says that keeping an open mind will result in a surprise that will leave a lasting impression.
'Don't expect anything. Come prepared to open your mind and take in wines that will challenge and delight you. Yamhill-Carlton is just one corner of a magical valley that welcomes visitors with open arms,' he says.
Looking to try a bottle of Chardonnay from the region? These showcase the terroir and unique winemaking styles of the Yamhill-Carlton AVA.
Belle Pente Vineyards Estate Chardonnay: Made with a higher percentage of late harvest fruit and newer barrels, this wine has fresh citrus notes, a hint of tropical fruit and a medium structure. It can be opened immediately or aged in an appropriate setting.
Penner-Ash 2023 Willamette Valley Chardonnay: At first smell, one may realize this Chardonnay is unique. Starting with aromas of delicate bouquet of white flowers, it opens up to candied ginger and lemon zest on the palate, while sweet oak gifts it texture with a hint of creaminess. A wine that walks the line between sweet and indulgent.
Solena Estate Domaine Danielle Laurent Chardonnay: This vintage brought the lemon out to play for this Chardonnay. However, notes of papaya, candied white pineapple and Star Anise bring a depth of flavor to this wine, which spent eight months in 10 percent new Oak barrels. While it is ready to drink now, it can be cellared until 2029, according to the winery.
Abbey Road Farm Ab Ovo Chardonnay: Fermented and aged in a concrete egg vessel, this wine has stunning fruit aromas and flavors. These include green apple, lemon rind and honeysuckle and finishes with a gentle minerality. The combination of the creaminess with the acidity makes this a fan favorite.
Gran Moraine Chardonnay: A wine with a big mouthfeel, the Gran Moraine Chardonnay packs a punch. Aromas of clover honey, Champagne mango, pineapple, and crème brûlée give way to palate full of kumquat, prickly pear, marzipan, flint and honeysuckle. Complex yet playful, this wine also has a hint of minerality the region is known for.
Tendril Wines Child's Play Chardonnay: Designed to be opened immediately, this sipper is bright and playful. Expect lime, pineapple and apple blossom on the nose, while flavors of peaches, pears and bright citrus dance on the palate. Aged for four months in neutral Oak barrels for a touch of structure.
Domino IV Tempting Stones To Sing Chardonnay: A wine that walks a fine line between creamy and zesty. This wine's acidity sings alongside its lemon pie and verbena tasting notes; while it is aged in 15 percent new French Oak for roundness.
The artwork on the label is designed by Reuter using shape testing; it is his visual interpretation of the wine in the bottle. 'Shape tasting is an attempt to visualize flavors, aromas and sensations of wine without necessarily using words to describe our experience of tasting wine. I use shapes such as circles, arrows, and dots to represent fruit, acidity and texture,' he says.
