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Hindustan Times

Pooja Bavishi: 'The book is about celebrating the flavours of South Asia'

Photos: Pooja Bavishi at her Philadelphia ice cream parlour (Courtesy Malai / Morgan Ione Photography) At first glance, the ice cream flavours at Malai seem more like a spice menu than a dessert list: ginger root, cinnamon, mace, vanilla, cardamom, garam masala, masala chai, and even a riff on that age-old Indian favourite, sweet roti and ghee. But when I step into the cheerful scoop shop's Philadelphia outpost, a few days after its opening, surprise quickly gives way to delight. It's clear that founder Pooja Bavishi has reimagined the classic American ice cream parlour through a South Asian lens, blending traditional techniques with the bold, aromatic ingredients of her Indian heritage. The result is a range of unexpectedly lush, fragrant ice creams, as comforting as they are adventurous. 224pp, $35; Weldon Owen Born to Indian immigrant parents and raised in the American South, Bavishi grew up at the crossroads of cultures; she says the aroma of cardamom and saffron were as familiar to her as that of apple pie. Bavishi never felt like she was balancing two separate cultures growing up. 'To me, being Indian-American was the same as being American – it was all part of who I was. My family's traditions and flavours were a natural part of my everyday life, and I carried that with me everywhere I went,' she says. That sense of being herself, without feeling like she had to fit into one box or the other, shaped how she approached her work with Malai, which translates into 'cream' in Hindi. 'I want to celebrate those flavours and stories in a way that feels inclusive and authentic – because to me, that's what being American looks like,' she says. Growing up in a first-generation Indian-American household, food was always a vibrant part of family life. There was always a blend of traditional Indian dishes alongside classic American staples. 'There was definitely some mishmash – like cilantro chutney on our tacos or a dash of Kashmiri red chili in tomato soup – but it was also a seamless mix that reflected both worlds I was living in,' she says. Bavishi says the seamless blend of flavours is at the heart of Malai. 'I love taking those familiar spices and ingredients from my childhood and reimagining them in ice cream, creating something that feels both nostalgic and new,' she says. The entrepreneur, who has a master's degree from the London School of Economics, and an MBA from NYU Stern School of Business, says each step gave her different perspectives and skills that helped shape how she approached building Malai – from understanding markets to strategy to leadership. 'After a few years of doing markets, pop-ups, and selling online, we realised that people weren't just coming to Malai for the ice cream – they were coming for the experience. They wanted to talk about the flavours, ask questions, and share memories. And we wanted to create a space where that could really come to life,' she says. Bavishi opened her first scoop shop in Brooklyn in 2019. Having her own space meant she could tell the story of Malai more fully – from the design of the shop to the way people were introduced to her flavours. The early days were intense – long hours, a small team, and figuring things out on the fly. 'But there was also something really special about watching people walk in, taste something totally new (or deeply familiar), and feel connected to it. That's when we knew we were onto something,' she says. This is clear when you see kids, parents, friends, office-goers, and others troop into the ice cream store, requesting a taste of this, a bite of that. The flavours are unusual, but ice cream is familiar, which makes the atypical tastes an out-of-the-ordinary experience. Malai rotates a seasonal selection of up to 12 of flavours, along with up to two soft serve options. Right now, the dairy options include tulsi chocolate chip, lemon cardamom, cherry black cardamom, masala chai, apricot mace, and rose with cinnamon roasted almonds. The non-dairy and vegan options on offer in summer are passionfruit cilantro and lychee. Bavishi says the flavours are drawn from her own upbringing. 'Growing up in an Indian-American household, the spices and ingredients we used daily were so vibrant and layered. These were the flavours that felt like comfort and joy to me,' she says. She naturally gravitated toward those ingredients when she started experimenting with ice cream. The idea was to see what would happen if she paired the spices of her childhood with the dessert she loved most. 'That's really how Malai was born: from the idea that these ingredients belong in the mainstream dessert conversation,' she says. Each flavour is rooted in a memory, a story, or even a playful twist on something nostalgic – like the Cinnamon Honeybun, a cardamom and spiced honey ice cream, which was inspired by the snack she used to get from the corner store growing up. 'So, while the profiles may seem unusual at first, they all come from a very personal and intuitive place,' she says. The response has been meaningful. For many South Asians, Malai's flavours tap into something deeply familiar. 'I've had customers share that our Rose with Cinnamon Roasted Almond reminds them of desserts they grew up eating, or that a scoop of Masala Chai ice cream feels like home,' she says, adding that this connection is why she started Malai – to celebrate and honour those flavour memories in a new and joyful way. For those new to these ingredients, the reaction is often one of pleasant surprise. They may not have tasted fennel or fenugreek in a dessert before, but they're curious – and often fall in love with the flavours. What's been especially rewarding is seeing people embrace that sense of discovery and be open to something new. 'At the end of the day, whether it's a memory or a new experience, we want Malai to bring people joy and a sense of connection,' she says. People have shared how much they've enjoyed experimenting with the recipes – and how meaningful it is to see ingredients like fennel, jaggery, and garam masala front and centre. 'That kind of resonance means everything to me.' Bavishi says one of the biggest early hurdles was educating people about the flavours as South Asian spices aren't something everyone grew up tasting in desserts. On the operational side, scaling up while keeping quality consistent was another challenge. 'We're really passionate about making ice cream that's rich, creamy, and true to those flavours, so that meant a lot of trial and error as we grew. Ice cream is a delicate product, and any hiccup in temperature can affect the texture and flavour, so it requires constant attention and careful coordination,' she says. In April 2025, she launched her labour of love: the Malai cookbook. The idea grew from years of conversations with customers who weren't just excited about the ice cream – they were curious about the flavours behind it. 'The book isn't just about ice cream – it's about celebrating the flavours of South Asian childhoods in a way that feels fun, accessible, and joyfully indulgent. It's for those who've grown up with these ingredients and those discovering them for the first time. We wanted it to feel like an open invitation to play, explore, and celebrate culture through dessert,' she says. A collection of 100 recipes, including ice cream bars, cones, pies, cakes, and cookies, the cookbook promises varied sweet endings to meals. 'The cities where we have scoop shops have long been defined by the cultural fabric – and food is one of the most powerful ways that shows up. Malai fits into that tradition by taking something familiar, like ice cream, and reimagining it through the lens of South Asian ingredients and memories,' Bavishi says. (Courtesy Malai / Morgan Ione Photography) In the future, Bavishi wants to be 'all about world domination – in the sweetest way possible'! She wants Malai to become a household name, the go-to for anyone craving something deliciously different and rooted in culture. Malai just signed a lease for a scoop shop in Manhattan, another chance to share the unusual flavours with even more people. 'But beyond opening new shops, our biggest goal is making sure as many people as possible can enjoy Malai, whether that's through stores, grocery, shipping, or partnerships,' she says. New York, Philly, and DC are known for their deep immigrant roots, which have had a huge impact on the community and culture. Malai was born out of that very spirit – the first generation experience of bridging heritage and identity in a way that feels joyful and real. 'The cities where we have scoop shops have long been defined by the cultural fabric – and food is one of the most powerful ways that shows up. Malai fits into that tradition by taking something familiar, like ice cream, and reimagining it through the lens of South Asian ingredients and memories,' Bavishi says. Malai's presence in neighbourhoods isn't just about serving dessert – it's about creating space for cultural expression, for celebration, and for a new kind of nostalgia that reflects who we are today. 'We're proud to be part of this ongoing story, showing that 'American' dessert can be as diverse and layered as the communities it serves,' she says. At the end of the day, Malai is all about bringing joy and connection through every scoop – and it's just getting started.