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Business of Fashion
4 days ago
- Business
- Business of Fashion
How Raisefashion Helps BIPOC-Owned Brands Navigate Fashion's New Realities
As the fashion industry navigates rising production costs and new trade dynamics, independent designers are facing new pressures when scaling their businesses. These challenges are exacerbated by ever-changing consumer expectations, with an increasing demand for brands that prioritise inclusivity, sustainability and authenticity. Kantar's Brand Inclusion 2024 Index found that 75 percent of consumers globally say diversity and inclusion – or a lack thereof – influence their purchase decisions. To succeed, brands must strike a balance between meeting these needs, maintaining their own creative vision and adapting to new economic realities. Beyond the business challenges, the emotional toll of navigating this complex environment on designers is significant. The pressure of managing production costs, market volatility and rising consumer expectations can lead to feelings of burnout. For many BIPOC and underrepresented designers, the weight of being seen as cultural ambassadors for their communities can amplify these stresses. This emotional labour highlights the need for more holistic support systems that address both the business and emotional wellbeing of these entrepreneurs. RaiseFashion — a non-profit dedicated to empowering emerging BIPOC designers — provides designers with access to grant funding, executive mentorship and strategic advice — helping them navigate the complexities of the fashion industry. Now in its third year, hands-on guidance from industry leaders help chosen designers to adapt their operations, and leverage new technologies, while remaining focused on their core community objectives. Through the support of RaiseFashion, brands like Gwen Beloti, Danzy and Vontélle are working to build businesses that have inclusion and community at their core, while still benefitting from commercial success and scale. Now, BoF speaks to three members of this year's RaiseFashion intake, whose businesses centre around inclusivity and accessibility. Here, we learn how they are striking the balance between purpose, community and scaling for success. Marshall Danzy Taulbert, founder of Danzy Design Studio. (Raisefashion) Marshall Danzy Taulbert, Danzy Design Studio Danzy Design Studio is a fashion brand founded by Marshall Danzy Taulbert, a Los-Angeles based designer blending American heritage with a modern, preppy style. Launched in 2018, the label reflects Danzy's creative roots and personal style, offering elevated essentials that balance nostalgia with the contemporary. Known for its signature varsity jackets, sweats and clean tailoring, Danzy has gained a cult following and was spotlighted in a collaboration with Abercrombie & Fitch in March 2025. What unmet consumer demands are you working to meet through your brand? MDT: I just want to meet people where they are. Right now, we're all getting hit with twenty new brands a day on social media, each one throwing a hundred products at us — it's overwhelming. For me, it's really about doing less and doing it with intention. I've kept my site and offering tight — core pieces, limited colours, no endless scrolling. If I add a new colour, I take one away. I want people to know that when they come to Danzy, they're not going to be flooded with options. They know what they are getting and that clarity actually helps them make a decision. What are some of the biggest obstacles you've faced in scaling your business? MDT: Access to capital — no question. Producing samples, funding shoots, updating your website — it all comes down to having the funds to execute your ideas. RaiseFashion actually pitched me to Abercrombie, they took a real chance on me. They believe I could deliver a 26-piece collection for a major global brand — and I did. It was such a pivotal moment because for the first time, I didn't have to think about cost — I could just create. It was the first time I was able to fully build the world I see in my head, with no restrictions. It reminded me just how much capital fuels scale — not just in production, but in storytelling. How did participating in the RaiseFashion masterclass shape your perspective as a founder or creative? MDT: They focused hard on the business side of fashion. Cash flow, scaling, financial planning — all the stuff creatives don't always want to deal with. Having that structure, those advisors, some from totally different industries like Apple — it gave me new ways to look at my brands. Fresh eyes and fresh perspectives, that's something you can't get when you're just talking to other fashion people. It also really pushed me to take a hard, honest look at what my brand is. Today, consumers are being so careful about where their money goes — the last thing they want is confusion. RaiseFashion made me confront that. Know your brand, know your market and build from where you are, not where you hope to be someday. That shift in mindset helped me to avoid overextending creatively and financially. Tracy Vontélle Green, co-founder of Vontélle Eyewear. (Raisefashion) Tracy Green, Vontélle Founded in 2019 by Tracy Vontélle Green and Nancey Harris, Vontélle Eyewear is a Black-female owned brand that offers culturally inspired and size inclusive eyewear. Vontélle's eyewear is available online and in over 900 America's Best retail locations, through its collaboration with National Vision Inc. Its products are also featured on platforms such as Amazon and Shop with BET. What unmet consumer demands are you working to meet through your brand? TG: Vontélle is about size inclusivity in eyewear. I've worn glasses since childhood and I've always struggled to find pairs that fit my face comfortably. I have fuller cheeks and a wider nose bridge, and so most frames left marks on my face or gave me headaches from being too tight. It wasn't just me — so many people in our community have similar experiences, but have gotten used to dealing with it. My co-founder and I — who I've known since college — both lost expensive glasses within the same year. We joked about starting our own brand and that lightbulb moment led us to do serious research. We started attending trade shows like SILMO in Paris, which is one of the largest optical expos in the world. And we walked for hours and didn't see a single Black or Hispanic designer. It was that absence that made our mission clear — to create glasses that are not only stylish but actually fit diverse face shapes and sizes. We've redesigned everything — wider nose bridges, longer temples, frames that don't dig into your cheeks or press on the lymph nodes behind your ears. Our goal is for people to be able to wear their glasses all day without discomfort. It's about function, comfort and visibility — in every sense of the word. How do you balance innovation and accessibility, especially around pricing? TG: When we launched, our goal was to create luxury eyewear — bold designs, premium quality and better fit. Our original line, Vontélle's signature collection, sits in that middle-high tier with average prices around $235. But, we also knew affordability was important, especially for underserved communities. So, when National Vision — who owns America's Best — approached us, we saw it as an opportunity to meet people where they are. We created a special collection for them, with prices ranging from $90 to $150. With the same inclusive sizing, same colourful expression, just with fewer patterns or simplified silhouettes. Now we operate in tiers: the Vontélle signature line, our America's Best collaboration and a potential third tier for more expansive offerings. It's not unlike what brands such as Ralph Lauren do — offering Purple Label at the top and Polo for wider audiences. The common thread across all of our lines is the fit. Our products are a medical necessity first — but they can still be fashionable and culturally relevant. How has RaiseFashion shaped your business strategy and perspective as a founder and creative? TG: RaiseFashion has been truly transformative. Felita Harris and the entire team didn't just open doors — they gave us a new mindset. Before joining the programme, we had major wins — such as getting Vontélle onto — but we weren't always sure how to sustain that kind of momentum. Now, we have a framework. The masterclass has helped us to clarify our mission, tighten our branding and to think long-term. One session on brand identity really stuck with me. A speaker asked, 'if your brand is about colour, where is that colour in your storytelling?' — that was a wake-up call. RaiseFashion is teaching us that launching a product is just the beginning. Building a brand that lasts requires consistency, clarity and purpose. Even in the accessories world — which can be overshadowed by apparel — branding is essential. Ralph Lauren started with a tie. We started with eyewear. But now, with the right foundation, we can see Vontélle evolving into bags, scarves, maybe even apparel. We're thinking bigger — but with intention. Gwen Beloti, founder and designer at Gwen Beloti Jewellery. (Raisefashion) Gwen Beloti, Gwen Beloti Jewellery Gwen Beloti is the founder and designer behind Gwen Beloti Jewellery, a Brooklyn-based jewellery brand known for its minimalist and inclusive designs. Launched in 2019, the brand prioritises accessibility and versatility, offering gold-centric pieces that cater to a range of sizes. How do you ensure that your brand remains accessible as you scale, particularly with pricing and messaging? GB: My brand is deeply rooted in my own personal experience with fit and accessibility. Before jewellery, I was an apparel designer, and my frustration with finding flattering pieces that fit my body type pushed me to design. Jewellery became my creative outlet because it allowed me to express myself without the stress of sizing. But, I quickly realised that size inclusivity was a gap in the jewellery market too. Many minimalist jewellery brands overlook this, and so I wanted to ensure my brand wasn't just offering larger sizes; but truly designs for customers of all shapes and sizes. Inclusivity is a non-negotiable pillar of my brands. As for accessibility, it goes beyond just price points — it's about making people feel like the brand was made with them in mind. We offer a range of pricing options, from demi-fine jewellery that is priced between $85 and $350 to higher-end fine pieces. But the value we offer isn't just in the product — it's in the community that we are building. We aim to offer quality that lasts, which is why we only work with manufacturers who are committed to ethical production and consistency. We are also focused on creating a brand that feels inclusive and welcoming, not just to those who can afford luxury; but to a broader community that values both design and diversity. What obstacles have you faced as a small, minority-owned business? GB: Access to capital and the right networks have been some of the biggest hurdles. As a Black, female-owned business, it's challenging to break into spaces that are often gated by relationships and industry perceptions. But, I've been persistent — the RaiseFashion platform has been invaluable in connecting me to networks that have helped propel my brand forward. In fact, participating in RaiseFashion events led directly to placements at Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue. While the industry is often biased, these platforms are helping to create a level playing field by opening doors and providing access to those of us who might otherwise have been overlooked. How has RaiseFashion impacted your approach in scaling your business? GB: RaiseFashion has not only helped me to build relationships with major industry players, but has also given me the confidence to advocate for myself and my brand. I've learned how to navigate tricky business spaces, stand up for my value and position my brand in a way that highlights our unique perspective. It's a space where small businesses like mine are not just given a seat at the table — but the tools to truly succeed. This feature is part of a community partnership with Raisefashion.
Business of Fashion
24-05-2025
- Business
- Business of Fashion
How Raisefashion's Emerging Designers Build Brands Informed by Heritage
As the global fashion industry reckons with shifting tariffs, rising production costs and price sensitive consumers, emerging designers are compelled to adopt entrepreneurial mindsets to nimbly navigate these challenges. After a sustained period of success, luxury is facing a significant slowdown affecting even top brands. In 2024, the McKinsey Global Fashion Index forecast non-luxury wholly driving the increase in profit for the first time since 2010 (excluding the years of COVID-19), after years of luxury markups often accounting for over 80 percent of growth. In this complex landscape, emerging designers must focus on creative excellence and develop robust business strategies to align with evolving market dynamics, pricing models and consumer expectations. Notably, in a 2024 report by the Centre for Sustainable Fashion, over 60 percent of emerging designers experienced high levels of stress involving financial uncertainty, supply chain issues and social media visibility. For many BIPOC designers, those challenges are compounded by systemic barriers — whether through limited access to capital and advisory support, or the pressures to represent entire cultures through their work. As the emotional labour grows, so does the need for industry-wide solutions spanning financial and pastoral support. RaiseFashion's masterclass is one such initiative. Now in its third year, selected designers receive a grant between $10,000 and $15,000 and are connected to mentors, advisors and peer support systems that offer technical advice and a space for empathy and perspective. This year's cohort builds on the nonprofit's core pillars of education, mentorship and access, but with a sharpened focus on building creative and commercial longevity. With guidance from RaiseFashion's advisory network — a growing roster of C-suite and senior executives in the industry — designers are able to gain access to grants, resources and strategic advice. Initiatives involving crafting collections using deadstock materials to building effective pricing strategies amid volatile supply chains are married with the designers' own value propositions. For brands like House of Aama, Theophilio, L'Enchanteur and Bach Mai, cultural heritage is a critical tenet of their product and creative output, with each leveraging storytelling and technology to deepen impact. As conversations around trade continue to shape the economics of independent fashion, and as price hikes at legacy brands persist, the heritage and authenticity of these designers are what sets them apart. Now, BoF speaks with four designers from RaiseFashion's latest cohort to understand how they're scaling businesses rooted in identity — and built for the future. From left to right: Rebecca Henry and Akua Shabaka, co-founders of House of Aama. (Raisefashion) Rebecca Henry and Akua Shabaka, House of Aama House of Aama is a Los Angeles-based fashion label founded in 2015 by mother and daughter duo Rebecca Henry and Akua Shabaka. The brand weaves narratives of African heritage and the Black American experience into its designs — which have graced the runways of New York Fashion Week and been featured in publications such as Vogue and Teen Vogue. How are you navigating external pressures while staying true to your vision? RH: We're small, independent and committed to producing locally — we really value the relationships we've built with US-based partners. However, even before the latest tariff announcements, like many independent brands, we are exploring overseas production. Manufacturing in the US is meaningful and sustainable when you're trying to grow a business and we remain committed to US production. We were planning to expand and at present are unsure if that's a viable option. AS: In some ways, this moment has reaffirmed what we've already been doing. Practices like local production and thoughtful sourcing, which we've prioritised from the beginning, are now becoming less of a choice and more of a necessity. But running a financially sustainable business often points you towards production options outside of the US — just because of cost. It's always a balancing act. Even before recent economic developments, we were working on a project involving a fully American supply chain. It's rooted in storytelling — reclaiming cotton and crops —with plans to launch in September. With everything happening globally it feels especially timely. How do you care for your mental health while growing a brand? RH: Akua introduced me to the concept of self-care — something I now take seriously. We've built Pilates and journaling routines — taking moments for ourselves. You need to show up for yourself in order to show up for your work. AS: We've been at this for 12 years and as the pace picks up, we've learned how important it is to set boundaries. The business never really 'slows down,' so we've developed a rhythm that allows for sustainability — not just in our work — but in our minds and our bodies. Burnout doesn't serve anyone and longevity requires balance. How has participating in the RaiseFashion Masterclass shaped your perspective as a founder and creative? RH: Emerging designers need what any builder needs — a foundation. That includes mentorship, community, capital and access to resources that support real growth. You need knowledge, yes — but you also need infrastructure. How do you run a business? How do you scale it? We didn't start out with a formal business plan — we were just creating. Raisefashion has been incredibly eye-opening because it's helped us understand the full scope of running a company. It's the most comprehensive support we've had. AS: Through different incubators, what has always stood out is the value of community — especially access to people in adjacent industries like finance, strategy and tech. Without such support, you stall. Better incubation models could make a huge difference industry wide. Edvin Thompson, founder and creative director of Theophilio. (Raisefashion) Edvin Thompson, Theophilio Theophilio is a contemporary ready-to-wear label by Jamaican-American designer Edvin Thompson. Rooted in nostalgia and cultural storytelling, Thompson's bold and expressive designs have appeared at the Met Gala, adorned by the likes of model Alton Mason and singer Davido. What does authenticity mean to you, and how does heritage shape that expression of your brand? ET: Honesty — and telling unfiltered stories reflecting who I am. It's not just about the clothes, it's about the stories stitched into them and the dialogue they spare. My Caribbean roots are the foundation of everything I create with Theophilio. They're the anchor guiding the brand. So when moments like the Met Gala happen, it's a cultural conversation.. It's about staying rooted while evolving. How has participating in the RaiseFashion Masterclass shaped your perspective as founders and creatives? ET: RaiseFashion is less rigid and more like a real community. It has helped me pinpoint exactly where I need support. The sessions reinforce the idea that no question is too small or bold. What kind of support do emerging designers still need in 2025? ET: Funding, first and foremost. It's especially daunting for students coming out of school who are entering a landscape more challenging than ever. But, it's not just about money. Support can also look like providing studio space, offering interns or even donating resources — mannequins, machines, laptops. I've been lucky to receive tech support through partnerships that helped accelerate my business. I also think having an accountant early on is critical for sparing a lot of stress down the line. From left to right: Dynasty Ogun and Soull Ogun, co-founders of L'Enchanteur. (Raisefashion ) Dynasty and Soull Ogun, L'Enchanteur L'Enchanteur is a Brooklyn-based luxury concept brand, founded in 2017 by identical twin sisters Dynasty and Soull Ogun. Through erging their previous individual labels — Alkhemi9 and Brzé — their new work draws inspiration from Yoruba heritage, and has been worn by the likes of Beyoncé, Jay-Z, Lauryn Hill and Erykah Badu. In 2004, L'Enchanteur won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. How does heritage and authenticity shape the long-term vision of your brand? SO: Authenticity starts at the roots and is reflected in the outcome. For us, that grounding is spiritual. We stay connected by staying in touch with spiritual practices — meditation, reflection and aligning with purpose. DO: Those roots are cultural too. We're first generation — our family is West Indian and Nigerian — and we were raised in Crown Heights, Brooklyn. That has shaped how we move through the world, design and approach business. We learned so much from the elders in the community — people with real talent and vision, often building without access to resources and recognition. Our goal is to honour that legacy and carry the torch forward. How does technology support your ability to connect and build community? DO: Technology is woven into everything that we do — it always has been. It's about changing the way that we share and receive information. We explore both ends of the spectrum — ancient technology that reconnects us to our roots, and then new age technology — like the Meta Ray-Ban smart glasses that we are playing with now. How has participating in the RaiseFashion Masterclass shaped your perspective as founders and creatives? SO: The masterclass has taught me that financial support gives you room to scale, community holds you steady as you grow and mentorship gives you insights that are priceless. The Raisefashion masterclass really emphasised those three pillars. DO: Thriving in community is so much more sustainable than starving alone. And mentorship gives you a blueprint to adapt. The masterclass also reaffirmed some of the choices we've made as a brand. Beyond that, it's been deeply communal. Bach Mai, founder of Bach Mai. (DUKE WIIN) Bach Mai Bach Mai is a Vietnamese-American designer known for his couture-level craftsmanship and bold, sculptural silhouettes. A Parsons graduate with a master's from the Institut Français de la Mode, Mai honed his skills under John Galliano at Maison Margiela. Launching his namesake label in 2021, Mai quickly gained acclaim for his modern take on glamour — dressing stars such as Venus Williams and Tessa Thompson. All collections are crafted in New York's Garment District. How do you navigate economic external pressures while staying true to your vision and brand? BM: It's never been smooth sailing — it's always difficult as a young brand — especially over the last year. We produce in New York but raw materials and supplies still come from all over. You truly roll with the punches and staying true to your vision amid all this is hard work — but important. What does authenticity mean to you in today's landscape? BM: It really comes down to knowing why your brand needs to exist. Who are you making it for, and why? It's easy to get lost if you're not deeply moored to something. And that 'something' has to be your vision, and why your brand exists. It's also about being connected to the lives your designs touch. How has participating in the RaiseFashion Masterclass shaped your perspective as a founder and creative? BM: The RaiseFashion Masterclass has been an incredible experience. It's given us new tools — helping us to see our brand from every angle: whether that be retail, branding, marketing, wholesale or merchandising. It's like taking a 360-degree magnifying glass to everything. I think it can only make us stronger moving forward. It has also been encouraging to hear that the instincts and realisations we've developed are right. This feature is part of a community partnership with Raisefashion.
