19-05-2025
Oviedo - the lush, cooler region of Spain Brits should stop ignoring
Many Brits head to southern Spain for sun, sea and sangria, but take a trip to the cooler, greener north of the country and there's a fabulous foodie getaway to discover a world away from Mediterranean hotspots.
Handsome, historic Oviedo – capital of the Principality of Asturias and the commercial, administrative heart of the wider region – was last year's Spanish Capital of Gastronomy, which showcased the best of Asturian cuisine – rich meat, fresh seafood, creamy cheeses and refreshing cider.
NB: scorpionfish are unlikely to win a marine beauty contest any time soon.
Cabrales is an artisanal blue cheese made from pure, unpasteurised cow's milk or a blend of goat/sheep milk for a stronger, spicier flavour.
The modern Nuvó Hotel Oviedo is a four-star, accessible hotel with contemporary rooms in the historic heart of the city. Facilities include free wi-fi and a gym and spa and top-of-the range rooms have rooftop terraces with views.
The historic splendours of highly walkable Oviedo await… architecture, a leafy park and those traditional sidrerías to tempt visitors and, perhaps, to try the traditional pouring of a glass from head height.
Must sees include Oviedo Cathedral, Holy Chamber and Gothic tower. The cathedral was founded by King Fruela I of Asturias in 781 AD and is the most important landmark in the city.
Fontán Market is one of the best-preserved squares in the city and home to a busy local produce market. Its name comes from the natural spring fountain which formed a pool in the sunken ground.
History buffs will also enjoy the city's pre-Romanesque architectural sites, which flourished in the Kingdom of Asturias when the Moors' Caliphate of Cordoba had conquered the south of the Iberian peninsula.
The UNESCO-listed Naranco monuments are a short bus ride, and the centrepiece Santa María del Naranco church is thought to originally have been part of the palatial residential complex of the monarch who commissioned its construction, Ramiro I (842-850).
For the sweet-toothed, dive in to a sugary tour of the Old Town pastry shops in the historic centre. Elegant and famous Confiteria Rialto is a reliable choice.
More quirky, see the cute Mafalda Monument – a tribute to the savvy protagonist of a 1960s-70s Argentine comic strip.
Vibrant port city Gijón is a 30-minute train ride from Oviedo, larger and well worth a visit.
The old town, Cimavilla, lies on an impressive peninsula with narrow, winding streets, historic buildings and the inevitable sidrerías, plus Cerro de Santa Catalina Park for city and coastal views. Baroque Palacio de Revillagigedo overlooks the marina in Plaza del Marqués and hosts modern art exhibitions, while main square Plaza Mayor is a focal point surrounded by neoclassical architecture.
If you fancy a dip, take your cossie and stroll to Playa de San Lorenzo, Gijón's best-known and biggest beach. Much-photographed Cudillero is a fishing village 45 minutes by road from Oviedo and its colourful houses tumble down a hill to the harbour.
The locals' curadillo is a healthy dogs' treat made from dried fish spines, backbones and skin. For humans, it's just a photo opp!
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