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NDTV
11 hours ago
- Entertainment
- NDTV
High Fashion's Habit Of 'Borrowing' From India Isn't New. Prada's Kolhapuri Chappals Are Just The Latest
Watching India shine on global runway is a moment of pride for fashion experts and enthusiasts. Whether it's Rahul Mishra enchanting audiences at the Paris Couture Week, Gaurav Gupta sculpting drama with his gowns at the Met Gala, or Indian embroidery being praised by luxury houses like Dior - our fashion identity is finally getting its moment. And we're all here for it. But this celebration often comes with a sour note. When international fashion labels take Indian craft for granted. They remix, rebrand and repackage traditional Indian design - presenting it as their own, with zero mention of its origins. The same design sensibilities, the same textile legacy, and the same embroidery techniques are served on a fancier platter, often without acknowledging where the ingredients came from. Take Prada, as the latest example. The luxury label recently showcased Kolhapuri chappals on the runway at Milan, reportedly priced at over Rs 1.25 lakh. The Kolhapuri chappals is not just a pair of sandals - it's a heritage craft that dates back to the 12th century, traditionally handmade by cobblers in Maharashtra and Karnataka. Yet, the brand made no effort to credit this legacy. Unfortunately, this isn't a one-off case. Luxury labels have a long history of "borrowing" from India - sometimes calling it a source of inspiration, and at other times not even bothering with that excuse. Over time, we've seen a clear pattern emerge: Indian fashion is either branded as something exotic, spiritual, or earthy, or it's simply repurposed under a western label, with no trace of its actual roots. Alia Bhatt's Met Gala Saga Alia Bhatt's high profile debut at the 2025 Cannes Film Festival in May became a point of contention when Gucci, in its official post, referred to her outfit as a gown. This directly contradicted Alia's own statement, where she proudly said she was wearing a saree -inspired ensemble. View this post on Instagram A post shared by GUCCI (@gucci) It might sound small, but it's not-especially when the entire essence of the look is rooted in Indian tradition. Things escalated further when internet users noticed the look bore striking similarities to a lehenga by Indian brand Talking Threads, led by Pearl Uppal. Was it inspiration? Or a quiet lift? Either way, credit was nowhere to be found. Rapsodia Versus Anupamaa Dayal Delhi-based veteran designer Anupamaa Dayal's bad experience brought another layer to this troubling trend. Known for spiritual symbolism and detailed botanical motifs in her designs, Dayal discovered that several of her designs had been allegedly copied by international fashion chain Rapsodia. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Anupamaa Dayal (@anupamaadayal) It started in March 2025, when a woman named Gunjeet Kaur turned up at Dayal's Mehrauli studio and introduced herself as the Indian representative of the Argentinian label Rapsodia. Soon after, Dayal spotted strikingly similar designs on the brand's Instagram page. "They had copied in total," she alleged in her social media post. Dayal's efforts to confront the brand were met with silence and dismissive responses. She was even asked to produce trademarks and patents to prove ownership, revealing the murky legal protection available to independent designers, especially in fashion where copyright laws often fail to fully cover creative work. But Dayal didn't back down. She sent a legal notice to Rapsodia, demanding a formal apology from the brand. "It's shaken me," she said, "but it's also reminded me of the relevance of my work." The Scandinavian Scarf Incident Then came the infamous "Scandinavian scarf" saga, which is still unfolding. A classic case of cultural whitewashing went viral when western influencers and fashion platforms began showcasing the humble Indian dupatta-calling it a "Scandi girl scarf" or "European-core accessory". Not only was the terminology off, but there was an outright refusal to acknowledge that what was being presented as a fresh trend had been part of South Asian culture for centuries. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Sanjana Rishi (@sanjrishi) And this wasn't an isolated case. Saree blouses have been marketed as "Ibiza-style summer tops", kurtis turned into "sheer strappy dresses", and dupattas rebranded for European audiences with hashtags that completely erase their heritage. Indians and Indian NRIs were quick to clap back, using humour, memes, and powerful posts on social media to remind the world where these so-called trends actually came from. The Dior Sharara And Beyond When beauty influencer Chiara King recently wore a three-piece Dior outfit that looked suspiciously like a sharara complete with a dupatta, there was, once again, no mention of the Indian silhouette. View this post on Instagram A post shared by CHIARA KING (@chiaraking) And this wasn't Dior's first rodeo. Back in 2018, Delhi-based studio People Tree accused the French fashion house of copying one of their block prints for a red cotton dress in the Cruise 2018 collection. The original design had been handcrafted for over 15 years by Rajasthani block printers, many of whom struggle to sustain a livelihood. That Dior would not only replicate the design but also profit from it at a much higher margin - without any credit - struck many as deeply unfair. Ironically, that same dress was worn by Sonam Kapoor for a magazine cover, bringing even more visibility to a product that had erased its true creators. The Indy Turban Ft Gucci In 2019, Gucci sparked major controversy when it released a turban-style head wrap priced at Rs 68,000 ($790), called the "Indy Full Turban". Both the name and the accessory were seen as culturally insensitive towards Sikhism, a religion where the turban holds sacred value. Wow. @Gucci and @Nordstrom are selling turbans as fashion items. We're attacked and killed for how we look, and now corporations get to profit off that same look? Feels wrong to me. Your thoughts? — Simran Jeet Singh (@simran) May 15, 2019 After intense online backlash, the product name was changed to "Indy Full Head Wrap", but the damage was done. The incident highlighted how cultural items can be trivialised when divorced from their significance. The Nath and the Jean Paul Gaultier Show At Jean Paul Gaultier's Fall/Winter 2017 show in Paris, models walked the ramp in saree-inspired silhouettes and traditional nath, a Indian term for nose rings. While the visual might have been stunning, it also raised eyebrows. These accessories, rooted in the history of maharajas and still worn by Indian women today, were showcased with little to no cultural context - turning a deeply personal symbol into just another runway prop. So, Where's The Line? These examples, sadly, aren't rare. They are recurring patterns in the global fashion system, where Indian heritage becomes a moodboard reference, not a legacy to be respected. And while inspiration is natural, there's a fine line between that and appropriation. The difference lies in credit, collaboration, and fair compensation. It's time the fashion world takes a long, hard look at how it treats Indian craft and artisans. From Kolhapuri chappals to block prints, from shararas to naths, they are stories, skills, and generations of labour. When brands fail to acknowledge that, they aren't just borrowing, they're erasing an entire culture.
Hindustan Times
30-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Hindustan Times
White kurtis for women: From Lucknowi charm to modern prints; Top 8 white kurtis that wow
There's something timeless about a white kurti — it's graceful, versatile, and perfect for any season. Be it if you're dressing up for a family gathering, heading to college, or just want to feel effortlessly elegant, white kurtis offer that crisp and clean appeal every wardrobe needs. From traditional Lucknowi chikankari embroidery to contemporary prints and buti patterns, Amazon has a wide array of white kurtis to suit every style. Check out the most stylish picks and how to pair them for every mood and moment! Delicate hand embroidery meets premium cotton in this Lucknowi chikankari kurti by Ada. The short, straight-cut silhouette makes it ideal for casual wear or office elegance. The intricate black threadwork adds depth to the classic white, keeping things minimal yet eye-catching. Style it with cigarette pants and silver jhumkas for a graceful ethnic look. Pair it with: Black cigarette pants and silver oxidised earrings. This Seva Chikan kurti is pure artistry in cotton form. The fine Lucknowi embroidery feels luxe yet breathable, making it perfect for hot days. It's a versatile piece that looks great with both jeans and palazzos. Wear it to college or a brunch and enjoy compliments on your subtle sense of style. Pair it with: Straight-fit jeans and tan sandals White kurtis on Myntra: Elegance personified — this all-white Ada kurti is a beautiful example of minimalism done right. The straight fit and detailed chikankari work make it a staple for those who love ethnic wear with refinement. It's ideal for pujas, family functions, or even casual Fridays at work. Add leggings and a sleek bun for that timeless appeal. Pair it with: White leggings and delicate pearl studs. Soft, breezy, and loaded with charm — this Brownverse kurti offers floral embroidery in a relaxed short-fit design. It's a great everyday option when you want to look dressed without the fuss. Pair it with wide-leg pants and flats for an easygoing yet stylish outfit that works all day. Pair it with: Wide-leg linen trousers and flats. This hand-block printed white kurti channels pure Rajasthani artistry. The brown detailing adds earthy contrast while keeping the overall tone soothing. Great for day trips or cafe catchups, this kurti is both traditional and trendy. Pair with juttis and oxidised bangles for desi-chic flair. Pair it with: Straight brown trousers and juttis. Delicate buti prints in soft blue and white make this Rapsodia kurti perfect for summer styling. It blends ethnic charm with comfort, and works beautifully for workwear or weekend errands. Add blue leggings or pants and a sling bag to complete this graceful ensemble. Pair it with: Powder blue leggings and a white sling bag. If you like a little drama in your basics, this rayon kurta brings it with a deep V-neck and statement sleeves. The embroidery elevates the clean silhouette, making it great for semi-formal occasions. Pair with culottes and statement earrings for a modern ethnic twist. Pair it with: White culottes and chunky silver hoops. Simple, youthful, and super wearable — this printed short kurti by Myx is a must-have for college-goers and casual dressers. The soft cotton and subtle print make it ideal for daily wear. Pair it with jeggings and a messy bun for a no-fuss, fresh look. Pair it with: Blue jeggings and sneakers. From heritage hand embroidery to breezy modern prints, white kurtis offer endless styling potential. Whether you're looking to dress up or down, these versatile pieces from Amazon are perfect additions to your ethnic wardrobe. Embrace the magic of white and let elegance be your everyday mood. Chiffon saree for women: Top 8 breezy, simple, and comfortable picks for an elegant look Short cotton kurtis at 50% off: Beat the heat in style with kurtis at half price! Anarkali kurtis: Top 8 picks to level up your ethnic wardrobe; When elegance meets whimsy Yes, pair them with vibrant dupattas, statement jewellery, and embroidered bottoms for a festive-ready look. Short kurtis pair well with jeans, cigarette pants, palazzos, or even skirts depending on the occasion. Not at all. Just hand-wash or use a gentle cycle and avoid direct sunlight for longevity. Yes, just layer them with long ethnic jackets, shawls, or cardigans for a cosy twist. Disclaimer: At Hindustan Times, we help you stay up-to-date with the latest trends and products. Hindustan Times has an affiliate partnership, so we may get a part of the revenue when you make a purchase. We shall not be liable for any claim under applicable laws, including but not limited to the Consumer Protection Act, 2019, concerning the products. The products listed in this article are in no particular order of priority.
