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The Star
14 hours ago
- General
- The Star
How an 'accidental' mango cultivator boosted the image of Harumanis in Perlis
The first few rays of the morning sun have just started piercing through the distant horizon when a small group of men slowly make their way towards an orchard located by the foothills of Bukit Chuping, one of the numerous limestone outcrops dotting the picturesque Perlis countryside. Making sprightly progress even with wheelbarrows in tow, they soon find themselves surrounded by neat rows of mango trees with boughs heavily laden with fruits. By then, darkness has ebbed sufficiently to provide enough light for Datuk Rick Cheng and his men to fan out and start inspecting the fruits, which have been individually wrapped by hand with custom-made paper bags several months earlier when the mangoes were about the size of a human thumb. Prized variants Throughout the entire fruiting season, utmost care is taken when handling these mangoes, as they are not from any run-of-the-mill variety. These are the prized Harumanis variant, which most mango connoisseurs consider equivalent to the premium Musang King and Black Thorn versions in the durian realm. Taking the lead, Cheng reaches out for a fruit nearby and, without removing the paper bag, skilfully assesses its suitability for harvesting just by his experienced sense of touch. 'Perfect! This grade A fruit is slightly soft to the touch but yet still sufficiently firm!' the Harumanis mango farm founder exclaims in jubilation before carefully unwrapping the protective paper bag to reveal an unblemished, uniform green fruit the size of an adult palm. Cheng (right) grows the high-demand Harumanis mango, while cafe manager Tan turns the smaller fruits into cheesecakes, tarts and ice cream. Before plucking, Cheng puts the fruit to a final test. He is completely satisfied after placing it close to his nose and inhaling deeply to take in the delightful aroma that only ripe Harumanis mangoes can exude. 'Harumanis mango skin remains green even when the fruit is ripe. As such, the best technique to determine ripeness is when a fragrant aroma is detected and the fruit is supple when pressed gently,' he explains further. When the fruit is harvested, Cheng highlights the fact that the phloem sap that spurts out from the severed stem is the ultimate proof of freshness. 'Now the clock starts ticking. The fruit is only at its best over the next three to five days and should be eaten within this period. After that, the quality deteriorates rapidly. This is among the many reasons why Harumanis commands a premium in terms of price compared to the other types of mangoes,' he clarifies further. Disappointment turns to opportunity As harvesting progresses, the established property developer recounts the incident about a decade ago that made him fall headlong into the agricultural sector. It all began over 10 years ago when Cheng was left utterly disappointed when this 23-acre land, which was newly acquired at that time, could not be used for its intended purpose as a housing development. A selection of Harumanis desserts that make use of smaller mangoes at Caffe Diem Jejawi. Not one to easily throw in the towel, he started scouting for other ways to put the land to good use. After taking into consideration the ideal sub-annual wet and dry seasons as well as suitable terrain and alkaline-rich soil, the most viable land use option was to plant mangoes. With that, Harumango Sdn Bhd was established. By that time, the Harumanis was already widely planted in Perlis. Fossil evidence proves that mango ancestry, from where all known modern-day variants hail, evolved simultaneously some 25 to 30 million years ago in areas known today as northeast India, Myanmar, and Bangladesh. Development and cultivation caused it to reach Southeast Asia. Teething problems The road to Harumanis success wasn't an easy one for Cheng, who has suffered many setbacks along the way. Eager to prove that soil and climate conditions in Perlis are indeed conducive for Harumanis cultivation, Cheng worked closely with the state's Agriculture Department to plant some 1,300 bud-grafted seedlings on his Bukit Chuping land. Cheng and his team began their journey with great zeal and enthusiastic hopes of securing recurring bountiful yearly harvests. However, their lofty aspirations were abruptly dashed when they discovered the harsh realities of agriculture. The first two years proved to be the most challenging. As if the sight of the young saplings ravaged by disease was not heart-wrenching enough, the novice farmers were overwhelmed by various teething problems related to soil fertility and irregular water supply for irrigation. Local youths Abdul Rahman Razak (left) and Mohd Izhar Hashim hard at work packing mangoes. Despite lacking in Harumanis cultivation experience at that time, Cheng realised that decision had already been made and the die had been cast. There was no turning back, and the project had to succeed at all costs. Gifted with the uncanny ability to turn perceived weaknesses into strengths, he became the much-needed stabilising force that helped put his nervous team back on an even keel. The gradual passing of time brought crucial experience for the farm to start flourishing. Smiles turned into wide grins when the trees started to flower by the third year. Watching the blooms turn into thumb-sized mangoes for the very first time was nothing short of inspirational for all involved. Although just a few fruits survived to maturity, everyone gave their best and waited with bated breath for the much-anticipated maiden harvest. Unfortunately, their joy was short-lived. Turning up one morning to the sight of half-eaten fruits strewn on the ground was nothing short of devastating. The unexpected overnight raid brought a painful realisation that there were monkeys and civet cats in the vicinity and they had been biding their time to strike when the fruits were ripe. Although Cheng suspected that the caves dotting Bukit Chuping served as lairs for the animals, he could do little more than hope for larger harvests in the coming years to share with these ravenous local animal inhabitants. As for the caves, they form an integral part of Perlis heritage after serving as places of refuge for villagers when the area was relentlessly attacked by the Siamese in the 19th century. Cheng (standing) chatting with diners at Caffe Diem Jejawi, which has become a crowd favourite as it highlights Harumanis mangoes in new and novel ways. Turning point A year later, Cheng had to once again fall back on his infallible belief in looking on the bright side of things when the dark days of Covid-19 lockdowns gripped the nation. True to the saying it is always darkest just before the dawn, the pandemic proved to be the turning point for Harumango Sdn Bhd. The stay-home notices triggered many human behavioural changes, including the need to consume more fresh fruits to boost resistance and immunity levels. That trend not only boosted sales for Harumanis home delivery but also saw satisfied customers passing word around to friends and families regarding the coveted fruit's alluring sweetness, unparalleled fragrance and delicate texture. Even after the pandemic was over and all 1,300 trees started to fruit, demand has consistently superseded supply every season. Cheng's decision to establish Caffe Diem Jejawi, which is part of the AllIn Hotel complex, near the royal town of Arau in 2023 to boost tourism in Perlis, inadvertently helped to solve one of the farm's perennial dilemmas: how to utilise smaller mangoes and avoid wastage. The Harumanis ice cream at Bukit Chuping is a crowd favourite. Under the able guidance of branch manager Tan Khun Wei, Caffe Diem Jejawi's skilled pastry and dessert chefs came up with novel ways to turn smaller-sized fruits into cheesecakes, tarts and even ice cream. A smaller Caffe Diem Jejawi outlet was set up at the farm as a result of the overwhelming public response. Today, even though Cheng provides overnight deliveries to places as far away as Singapore, people from all over Malaysia still prefer to make their way to Bukit Chuping to sample Harumanis mango in its many delectable forms. As for Cheng and his team, they are not sitting on their laurels. Although much has been achieved over the years with their blood, sweat, tears and sacrifices, they continue striving for excellence, and plans are already afoot to elevate Harumanis mangoes to yet another level.
The Star
15 hours ago
- General
- The Star
All about Harumanis mangoes: What to know about this highly sought after fruit
From 2011 onwards, the name Harumanis can only be used exclusively to refer to the variety of mangoes grown in Perlis. It is widely believed that the Harumanis variety of mangoes first surfaced in Indonesia in the late 1950s before its introduction to Malaysian orchards about a decade later. The popular variant took Perlis by storm in the early 1980s when the Raja of Perlis initiated village improvement projects that saw Harumanis mango trees replacing unproductive fruit trees to enhance economic returns for the villagers and at the same time boost their living standards. The pilot project at Kampung Santan in Padang Pauh proved to be such a resounding success that other villages in the state quickly started planting the prized mango variety as well. Since then the name Harumanis has become synonymous with that of Malaysia's northernmost state. In fact, from 2011 onwards, the name Harumanis can only be used exclusively to refer to the variety of mangoes grown in Perlis. Harumanis is notable for only bearing fruit between the months of April and July, unlike most other mango varietals which grow all year round. The fruit's extreme sensitivity means that weather changes can affect it, and it has a high spoilage rate. This – coupled with its relative rarity throughout the year – has contributed to its expensive price tag. Harumanis mango farm founder Datuk Rick Cheng, for instance, sells three kilos of premium-grade Harumanis for RM300. Currently on his website, the mangoes are all sold out; such is the height of demand! Harumanis mangoes are typically divided into two grades – grade A mangoes are sold whole, while grade B mangoes are turned into cakes, drinks and jams. A Harumanis tree can take three to four years to mature and will often bear fruit for up to 30 years. The physical labour involved in growing premium-grade Harumanis is often laborious – at farms like Cheng's, each fruit is meticulously wrapped by hand, a process that has to be done at precisely the right moment. Harumanis trees also have to be pruned to maintain a height of three metres, which facilitates an easier harvest. If left unmanaged, the tree can easily grow up to 10 metres high! On the palate, Harumanis is intensely perfumed, richly sweet in a wonderfully indulgent way with thick flesh that is juicy and devoid of fibrous entanglements. It's a mango befitting the expense associated with it.
