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Travel Weekly

Eating and drinking my way through Riverside Luxury Cruises' culinary program

Brinley Hineman I just spent a week aboard the Riverside Debussy, sailing the Rhine River from Amsterdam to Basel, where Riverside Luxury Cruises' culinary program was front and center. This was my first time sailing with Riverside, but after enjoying lunch on its ship the Mozart at the ASTA River Cruise Expo, I already knew that its food and beverage program shined. I had been hearing buzz during the expo about the delicious meals advisors enjoyed on the Mozart. And from the moment I stepped onto the 110-passenger Debussy, when I was handed a glass of bubbling champagne, until I departed, I couldn't stop myself from indulging. At practically all hours of the day, food is available: Heaps of meats and cheese are on display, along with fresh fruits and vegetables, assortments of pastries and freshly baked cookies. Breakfast and lunch are served buffet-style with classic dishes like scrambled eggs and avocado toast, and more indulgent options like foie gras and a crab sandwich wrap topped with caviar. Food can be a hit or miss, as I learned when I ate my way through at least six ships at the River Expo. And to be sure, on the Debussy an occasional side dish may have needed some extra salt, or a citrus dessert may have needed extra sugar to balance the tartness. But I was impressed that Riverside's quality consistently hit the mark. Executive Chef Simeon Petkov, who worked on the ship when it was owned by Crystal Cruises, told me that under Riverside's management he could better flex his creativity in the kitchen, especially for those dining in the ship's Vintage Room. A standout dish, and perhaps the best bite I had on the cruise, was a perfectly cooked venison filet served with a jus made of dark chocolate and a truffle potato foam. Though that is closely followed by a comfort meal of spaetzle, loaded with cheese and topped with fresh chives, and a slice of fried duck paired with a cherry sauce. The dark chocolate jus was an unexpected twist on an otherwise classic dish, and not the first time I was surprised by one of the kitchen's creations. Our first night, I ordered beef carpaccio as an appetizer because of the description: It included mustard ice cream. It felt odd to eat an ice cream that wasn't sweet, but the cold tanginess worked well. Plus, the unusual pairing leveled up the fun. Ilija Marojevic, the hotel manager, led a wine tasting one afternoon as we sailed down the Rhine, passing wild horses drinking from the river. The theme was New World wine vs. Old World, and Marojevic pitted two European and two Californian wines against each other. Prior to this tasting experience, the only thing I could tell you about wine is that I like to drink it. But by the end of the hour, I was left with a better understanding of the differences between wines grown in France than California. I even grew to appreciate white wines, thanks to an excursion to a winery in France where I drank what I would now describe as my ideal glass of white: a Pinot Gris from Alsace. Until the next time I'm able to sail with Riverside, I'll be dreaming about that spaetzle.