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The Courier
05-05-2025
- The Courier
St Andrews views and star soufflés at The Road Hole Restaurant
After a major refurbishment that has reimagined The Old Course Hotel's fourth floor, the legendary Road Hole Restaurant in St Andrews has reopened – and it's not just the views that dazzle. This three AA Rosette gem boasts a contemporary new look, a kitchen that's front and centre, and a menu that turns local Scottish produce into high culinary art. I went along on a warm spring evening with my young nephew, Marley, to see if the food and experience lived up to the promise. The Old Course Hotel is one of those places I'll take any excuse to visit. Whether it's afternoon tea, a trip to the Kohler Waters Spa, or simply soaking up the atmosphere of this iconic St Andrews landmark. So, I was excited to finally experience the rooftop Deck Bar with those sweeping views over the course and the sea. Where you know you're in for some top-notch champers the moment you sit down. We emerged onto The Deck, now open for the summer season and with the sun still warming the air after a scorcher of a day, we perched on bar stools sipping our drinks. Marley enjoyed a vibrant mocktail called Scratch, which included a lime wedge, mint leaves, crushed ice and Peroni 0% and I had a lovely full-tasting champagne. We watched golfers finishing their rounds on the Old Course while being mesmerised by the view across the West Sands – the very definition of a St Andrews golden hour. This was our introduction to the newly transformed fourth floor. The refurbishment celebrates Scottish coastal colours – think sea blues, golden sands and rich burgundies – and we felt that warmth throughout the space. When it was time for dinner, we were escorted past the opulent Road Hole Bar, a whisky lover's dream with more than 300 varieties lining the shelves. And into the spacious Road Hole Restaurant – named after the famous golf course's 17th hole. The most striking change? The open kitchen has been made even more visible and is now a live, copper-clad stage where the chefs cook just metres from diners. It adds a theatrical buzz that complements the refined yet relaxed vibe of the room. Our evening kicked off with oysters – six Cumbrae beauties with a custom Bloody Mary dressing that was kindly made gluten-free. Plump, chilled and already loosened from the shell, they were effortless to enjoy and absolutely delicious. Starters followed: I had grilled Wye Valley asparagus with fermented wild garlic emulsion. It was elegantly simple and full of flavour, the emulsion reminiscent of a green-hued hollandaise. But I would've preferred to see a local asparagus on the menu. Marley went for the St Andrews Bay lobster ravioli – a beautifully plated dish topped with a crunchy coral tuile. 'It's like nothing I've ever had before,' he said, enchanted by the creamy filling, perfect pasta, and the fresh crunch of green vegetables. Before our mains, a surprise palate cleanser arrived – green apple sorbet with white chocolate crumble. It was a revelation. Marley declared it 'the best sorbet ever,' and I wouldn't disagree. He even said if they sold tubs of it he would happily buy some to take home. For mains, I chose the butter-poached St Andrews Bay lobster tail, served with velvety potatoes and delicate watercress. Meaty, perfectly cooked, and bathed in a rich sauce, it was every bit the indulgence I hoped for. At £56, it was the priciest item on the menu, but the generous portion and quality helped it live up to the splurge. Marley's choice was a standout – the braised leek with sprouted wild rice, nori, sesame and tofu. Visually stunning, the dish resembled a floral sushi arrangement. The flavours were complex and earthy, with a piping of soft tofu lending a creamy balance to the sprouted wild rice. The chef even came to our table to explain the technique behind the dish. We were both captivated. Throughout our meal, the service was impeccable: warm, enthusiastic and never overbearing. Staff were eager to share the story behind the menu and the local ingredients that inspire it. It is clear that the restaurant's fine dining ethos is as much about hospitality as it is about flavour. We'd been advised to save room for dessert – a tip we were glad to take on board. Marley, lured by the promise of pistachio ice cream, went for the rhubarb and custard soufflé. It arrived puffed to perfection, with our server ceremoniously cutting a cross in the top and nestling the ice cream inside, where it slowly melted into the fluffy centre. A spoonful was like biting into sweet rhubarb-scented air. At £12, it was not only exquisite but excellent value for such culinary theatre. My dessert, the Blacketyside strawberry and basil Vacherin, was a more complex creation. It had layers of champagne jelly, lime curd, strawberry sorbet and shards of basil meringue. Beautiful and bold, it was perhaps a touch too involved for my taste. I longed for something a little simpler – but every component was delicious, especially the tart, vibrant sorbet. The meringue-smashing ritual at the start added a playful note. After dinner, we retreated to the Road Hole Bar, where we sank into plush armchairs and watched the sky darken over the links. As the last golfers disappeared into the St Andrews night, it was hard not to reflect on just how special this place is. From the tactile luxury of the refurbished interiors to the confident, creative cooking on the plate, this is a restaurant that has found its rhythm – blending tradition with modern finesse. Yes, prices lean toward the premium – this is, after all, one of Scotland's most iconic hotels. But the experience justifies the price and many of the dishes weren't prohibitively expensive or dissimilar to other high-end establishments. I'm already thinking of an excuse to return – and next time, I'm not missing out on that soufflé. Address: Old Station Road, St Andrews KY16 9SP Telephone: 01334 474371 Website: Disabled access: Yes Dog-friendly: No Scores: Food: 5/5 Service: 5/5 Surroundings: 5/5 Price: £140 for two people having three courses (not including drinks)
The Courier
30-04-2025
- Business
- The Courier
First look at revamped bar and restaurant at Old Course Hotel
The Old Course Hotel in St Andrews has unveiled a revamped bar and restaurant after renovating its fourth floor. New images show the transformation that has taken place at the five-star hotel. The Road Hole Restaurant and the Road Hole Bar have been at the centre of the renovation. Floor-to-ceiling windows now provide views of the 17th hole of the Old Course and West Sands Beach. The restaurant offers fine dining and includes an open kitchen where guests can watch the chefs in action. Dishes include the St Andrews Bay lobster ravioli and a Vacherin dessert including strawberries grown at Blacketyside Farm near Leven. Meanwhile, the Road Hole Bar offers guests coffees and light lunches during the day. In the evening, customers can enjoy a drink from a collection of more than 300 Scottish whiskies. A deck at Road Hole Bar will also provide an outdoor area in the summer months featuring pods and blankets. Elsewhere on the floor is the Swilcan Loft, which will continue as a modern seafood bar and chophouse, selling local shellfish. A boardroom has also been included in the fourth-floor revamp. It now features cream woven wallpaper, which includes floral artwork and artwork showcasing Scottish landscapes. Old Course Hotel bosses say this provides 'one of the most spectacular views' from any boardroom in Scotland. Phyllis Wilkie, general manager at the Old Course Hotel, said: 'Our guests can savour both the landscape and cuisine that makes Scotland truly special and revel in the elevated, comfortable spaces that nod to our home in St Andrews.' 'We're creating living narratives that connect our guests to the soul of Scottish heritage, while delivering truly indulgent good times.'
