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Telegraph
04-04-2025
- Business
- Telegraph
How Vinted killed the charity shop
The humble charity shop has long been a mainstay of the British high street. Thrift stores of clothes, shoes, books and 'bric-a-brac', have boomed in popularity since opening in the 1940s. But charity shops are facing a silent killer. Where people used to bundle up their old clothes and dump them on the shops' doorsteps, now they're being more careful. The 'vintage' jacket which is still in good condition? The wrap dress which was bought for a wedding five years ago? The heeled boots which never quite fit? All can make a pretty penny when sold online on platforms such as Vinted. This, in turn, has hit the quality of charity shop donations. Robin Osterley, chief executive of the Charity Retail Association, which represents charities with bricks and mortar stores, said the decline in good quality donations was 'undoubtedly true'. He added: 'A lot of our members have said they no longer get the high-quality items they used to receive.' An Oxfam spokesman said: 'Due to some changes in the production of new clothes and online reselling, the quality of donations has dropped compared to recent years.' Martin Wildsmith, chief commercial officer at Sue Ryder, said: 'It is clear that more people are choosing to sell their pre-loved items via online platforms. 'We are always in need of good quality donations so whether it's a pre-loved item from someone's home or surplus stock from a retailer, we would encourage everyone to consider donating to us.' Liz Choonara, executive director of commerce and enterprise at Crisis, a charity with 17 shops across London, said: 'We have seen an impact, we have seen a change in habits. 'Obviously times are tight for people, so people are having to make choices around what they donate.' One shopper, Larissa Hazell, 33, said that she previously donated 'loads' to charity shops, but since becoming a mother, she now chooses to sell old clothes online. The Essex-based businesswoman said: 'I used to donate lots to the charity shop, however since I became a mum and am working far less than I did previously, I now sell as much as I can. 'I regularly go around the house and find things we no longer need and sell them. 'Recently I have sold clothes hangers and a suit bag which would previously have been automatically taken to the charity shop.' Ms Hazell, who earns around £100 a month from selling unwanted garments online, added: 'It is less convenient than donating – but the items often get outside of the house much quicker, as they do not get forgotten by the door waiting to be taken to the charity shop.' Hazell still buys from the charity shop, but said that she does not feel guilty about no longer donating as much. 'I don't feel guilty for selling rather than donating because the money usually goes towards getting the next size up clothes and toys for our child. 'I also sell things cheaper than many charity shops sell things – so parents who are struggling can buy clothes and toys for their children at really low cost,' she added. Lack of designer finds Shoppers have also picked up on the decline in quality, with fast-fashion increasingly replacing designer finds. A Telegraph reporter found a £185 Christian Dior wool coat and a £200 Chloe cardigan under lock and key in London charity shops last year. Previously, another shopper found a £870 Christian Dior dress – also bolted to the rail – in Cancer Research on Marylebone High Street. The same dress was on sale eBay for £165. Another shopper, Bournemouth-based Antonella Lazzeri, 58, said that she began shopping regularly in charity shops around eight years ago, and even used them to source her singer daughter's performance outfits. 'Charity shops are not what they used to be. Over the past year especially I have noticed a big difference in the amount of clothes available in, and in the quality. 'I feel this correlates to the rise of Vinted and other similar websites. You really have to look for designer labels and clothes that do not look like they are worn to death.' Ms Lazzeri attributed the fall in quality to changing consumer behaviour. 'I know friends that used to drop bags of clothes off to charity shops along with handbags and shoes – but are now selling on Vinted – even though they don't really need the money.' Reselling has become so popular that HM Revenue and Customs (HMRC) has been cracking down on those not paying tax on their profits. Since January 2024, the tax authority has required online platforms such as eBay, Vinted and Etsy to provide data on users who earn more than £1,700 a year – or complete more than 30 transactions. The rules are aimed at sniffing out online sellers who have slipped through the tax net by failing to declare their trading income. The ongoing donation issue only adds to the problems charity shops are facing. The Telegraph understands that six Oxfam shops are marked for closure in 2025 – after charities warned that the employers' National Insurance raid from April would add £1,000 a year to their costs. More than a quarter of charity shops said they were considering permanent closures in a survey by the Charity Retail Association in December, while a third warned of redundancies because of higher overheads. Others said opening hours would likely be reduced. Two thirds also said that customers would see higher prices as a result. It's not just donations of clothes and odd bits which are falling. The Charities Aid Foundation has found that 5.2m fewer Britons were reaching into their pockets – with less than a third of those aged under 25 supporting any charity. A separate survey, by Mastercard, found that nearly two thirds of Gen Z – those aged between 13 and 28 – are instead prioritising travel, food, arts and live music for their spending. But it is not all doom and gloom. Some charities have begun selling directly on online platforms, while others have paired with corporate partners to increase their donation levels. Ms Choonara, of Crisis, said: 'One of the things we've been doing to mitigate against the quality of donations is working with corporate partners and stock suppliers. 'We're exploring more innovative partnerships around how we supplement some of the donated stock that we might not be getting as much of now, because of people's changing donation habits. 'We're really keen to not see this as an ultimate threat to the charity store model.' Mr Osterly said: 'A rising tide floats all ships. If it's good for Vinted, it is probably good for our members as well.' In a statement, Vinted said it continues to work with charities to raise money for good causes. A spokesman said: 'Both Vinted and charity shops play a critical role in ensuring that every item produced has the longest possible life. 'For many of our members, making money back from the items they no longer use provides them value, which can make a significant difference in the current cost of living crisis. 'We want to continue to work in partnership with charity organisations and offer tools to support this including our charity giving feature and Vinted Pro which gives business sellers and charities the opportunity to sell on Vinted to raise funds for their causes.'
Yahoo
04-04-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
How Vinted killed the charity shop
The humble charity shop has long been a mainstay of the British high street. Thrift stores of clothes, shoes, books and 'bric-a-brac', have boomed in popularity since opening in the 1940s. But charity shops are facing a silent killer. Where people used to bundle up their old clothes and dump them on the shops' doorsteps, now they're being more careful. The 'vintage' jacket which is still in good condition? The wrap dress which was bought for a wedding five years ago? The heeled boots which never quite fit? All can make a pretty penny when sold online on platforms such as Vinted. This, in turn, has hit the quality of charity shop donations. Robin Osterley, chief executive of the Charity Retail Association, which represents charities with bricks and mortar stores, said the decline in good quality donations was 'undoubtedly true'. He added: 'A lot of our members have said they no longer get the high-quality items they used to receive.' An Oxfam spokesman said: 'Due to some changes in the production of new clothes and online reselling, the quality of donations has dropped compared to recent years.' Martin Wildsmith, chief commercial officer at Sue Ryder, said: 'It is clear that more people are choosing to sell their pre-loved items via online platforms. 'We are always in need of good quality donations so whether it's a pre-loved item from someone's home or surplus stock from a retailer, we would encourage everyone to consider donating to us.' Liz Choonara, executive director of commerce and enterprise at Crisis, a charity with 17 shops across London, said: 'We have seen an impact, we have seen a change in habits. 'Obviously times are tight for people, so people are having to make choices around what they donate.' One shopper, Larissa Hazell, 33, said that she previously donated 'loads' to charity shops, but since becoming a mother, she now chooses to sell old clothes online. The Essex-based businesswoman said: 'I used to donate lots to the charity shop, however since I became a mum and am working far less than I did previously, I now sell as much as I can. 'I regularly go around the house and find things we no longer need and sell them. 'Recently I have sold clothes hangers and a suit bag which would previously have been automatically taken to the charity shop.' Ms Hazell, who earns around £100 a month from selling unwanted garments online, added: 'It is less convenient than donating – but the items often get outside of the house much quicker, as they do not get forgotten by the door waiting to be taken to the charity shop.' Hazell still buys from the charity shop, but said that she does not feel guilty about no longer donating as much. 'I don't feel guilty for selling rather than donating because the money usually goes towards getting the next size up clothes and toys for our child. 'I also sell things cheaper than many charity shops sell things – so parents who are struggling can buy clothes and toys for their children at really low cost,' she added. Shoppers have also picked up on the decline in quality, with fast-fashion increasingly replacing designer finds. A Telegraph reporter found a £185 Christian Dior wool coat and a £200 Chloe cardigan under lock and key in London charity shops last year. Previously, another shopper found a £870 Christian Dior dress – also bolted to the rail – in Cancer Research on Marylebone High Street. The same dress was on sale eBay for £165. Another shopper, Bournemouth-based Antonella Lazzeri, 58, said that she began shopping regularly in charity shops around eight years ago, and even used them to source her singer daughter's performance outfits. 'Charity shops are not what they used to be. Over the past year especially I have noticed a big difference in the amount of clothes available in, and in the quality. 'I feel this correlates to the rise of Vinted and other similar websites. You really have to look for designer labels and clothes that do not look like they are worn to death.' Ms Lazzeri attributed the fall in quality to changing consumer behaviour. 'I know friends that used to drop bags of clothes off to charity shops along with handbags and shoes – but are now selling on Vinted – even though they don't really need the money.' Reselling has become so popular that HM Revenue and Customs (HMRC) has been cracking down on those not paying tax on their profits. Since January 2024, the tax authority has required online platforms such as eBay, Vinted and Etsy to provide data on users who earn more than £1,700 a year – or complete more than 30 transactions. The rules are aimed at sniffing out online sellers who have slipped through the tax net by failing to declare their trading income. The ongoing donation issue only adds to the problems charity shops are facing. The Telegraph understands that six Oxfam shops are marked for closure in 2025 – after charities warned that the employers' National Insurance raid from April would add £1,000 a year to their costs. More than a quarter of charity shops said they were considering permanent closures in a survey by the Charity Retail Association in December, while a third warned of redundancies because of higher overheads. Others said opening hours would likely be reduced. Two thirds also said that customers would see higher prices as a result. It's not just donations of clothes and odd bits which are falling. The Charities Aid Foundation has found that 5.2m fewer Britons were reaching into their pockets – with less than a third of those aged under 25 supporting any charity. A separate survey, by Mastercard, found that nearly two thirds of Gen Z – those aged between 13 and 28 – are instead prioritising travel, food, arts and live music for their spending. But it is not all doom and gloom. Some charities have begun selling directly on online platforms, while others have paired with corporate partners to increase their donation levels. Ms Choonara, of Crisis, said: 'One of the things we've been doing to mitigate against the quality of donations is working with corporate partners and stock suppliers. 'We're exploring more innovative partnerships around how we supplement some of the donated stock that we might not be getting as much of now, because of people's changing donation habits. 'We're really keen to not see this as an ultimate threat to the charity store model.' Mr Osterly said: 'A rising tide floats all ships. If it's good for Vinted, it is probably good for our members as well.' In a statement, Vinted said it continues to work with charities to raise money for good causes. A spokesman said: 'Both Vinted and charity shops play a critical role in ensuring that every item produced has the longest possible life. 'For many of our members, making money back from the items they no longer use provides them value, which can make a significant difference in the current cost of living crisis. 'We want to continue to work in partnership with charity organisations and offer tools to support this including our charity giving feature and Vinted Pro which gives business sellers and charities the opportunity to sell on Vinted to raise funds for their causes.' Broaden your horizons with award-winning British journalism. Try The Telegraph free for 1 month with unlimited access to our award-winning website, exclusive app, money-saving offers and more.
Yahoo
18-03-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
'Rag' price slump costs charity £5,000 a week
A children's hospice charity has said a slump in the price of unwanted clothing has been costing it nearly £5,000 a week. East Anglia's Children's Hospices (EACH), which has 52 charity shops across Norfolk, Suffolk, Essex and Cambridgeshire, said prices for the clothing - known as "rag" - had plummeted by up to 73% over the past three years. The Charity Retail Association (CRA) said the global market had been facing a "perfect storm" of wars, labour shortages and a drop in the quality of second-hand garments. EACH insisted its services would not be cut as a result, but said it was looking at other ways to fundraise. "[Rag] is a valuable income stream to EACH and we're losing nearly £250,000 a year," said the charity's retail director, Ian Nicolson. "On top of that it's the potential landfill it creates as a result - as they're [clothing collectors] no longer picking up our rag, which is up to 11 tonnes every week." EACH, which runs three children's hospices, said the price of rag had fallen from 45p per kg (2.2lb) to 12p per kg over the past three years. In 2024, the charity's total income was £21.1m, of which £7.7m was raised by its charity shops. EACH said it received, on average, about 9,000 bags of donated items each week - of which only four items per bag were good enough to sell. Other items were too dirty, marked or ripped. Like many other charity shops, the unwanted clothing is sold to collectors, and distributed to markets around the world to be resold. Robin Osterley, CRA chief executive, said rag collectors had faced global transportation issues due to conflicts in places such as Africa and Ukraine. "Not only has it reduced income it's also made it harder for charities to get the service they need to clear their back rooms of excess stock," he told the BBC. "It doesn't seem as bad now as it did a year ago when I was receiving almost daily phone calls from clothing collectors and our members saying 'this is all going horribly wrong, what can we do about it?'. "But it's a volatile market and things can change quite quickly." Mr Osterley said market analysis showed its members received "no more than 1.9% of their income" from the sale of used clothing to collectors. A spokesperson for the Textile Recycling Association, said other factors were behind the "economic crisis" facing the industry. "This is driven by the rise of ultra-fast fashion, which is poor quality has no resale value, and a surge in collected clothing without market expansion," they said. "A decade ago, most used clothing came from the UK, USA, and parts of Europe. "Now, collection rates have soared worldwide, with China emerging as the largest source alongside the USA, and Asian countries playing a much bigger role in the trade." Follow Norfolk news on BBC Sounds, Facebook, Instagram and X. 'Charity shops are about the thrill of the thrift' Charity shop clothes challenge returns 10 years on Poor quality donations 'costing charities money' East Anglia's Children's Hospices Charity Retail Association Textile Retail Association
