21 hours ago
Table grapes undergo a variety revolution as tastes evolve
The introduction of sweeter table grapes in supermarkets is leaving old staples like Thompson Seedless behind.
The Thompson green grapes have been a mainstay on the shelves, but new varieties such as Cotton Candy, Fire Crush, and Midnight Beauty are joining them.
Enrique Rossi is overhauling his vineyard at Merbein, near Mildura in Victoria's north-west, moving from Crimson Seedless grapes to the newer proprietary varieties Allison and Ivory.
Proprietary grapes refer to a specific name or brand, rather than a single variety, and there are more and more of them hitting the market.
He said up to 70 per cent of grapes now being grown were new varieties.
Mr Rossi was involved in bringing new grapes from the United States to Australia more than a decade ago.
"Back then, there were five varieties," he said. "But today we are closer to 150 and still developing new ones.
"Choosing is the risky part. By the time you get one in the ground and producing fruit, there could be another 51 breeds coming — you'll never be on top of the wave."
The constant cycle of production is something he is worried will disproportionately affect smaller family farms like his own.
"There will be a decrease in family-operated growers and the smaller to medium ones will disappear or merge," he said.
On his vineyard at Euston, in south-western New South Wales, Joe Garreffa is transitioning away from Thompson grapes.
He is the chair of the Robinvale & District Table Grape Growers Association and says growers have to respond to what buyers want.
"There is increasing demand for these proprietary varieties and they have got a better taste, and that's what the consumer is chasing these days," he said.
"These [new varieties] are a good thing, there is a lot of work involved with them.
"They're a different vine and grow a little bit differently than the varieties we're used to.
"The cost to grow these new varieties is higher, but the return on actual sales is also greater," Mr Garreffa said.
Table Grape Australia Association chief executive Jeff Scott said he had noticed the shift away from traditional grapes.
"Supermarkets are heading down the pathway of wanting newer varieties over traditional ones like the Thompson and Menindee," he said.
"There are also growers who are now moving to these new varieties because they have a much higher yield and are more robust in terms of travel and presentation."
Mr Scott said the change in the way table grapes were being sold could be seen in supermarkets.
"If the supermarkets were to get a box of grapes and put them on the shelf they don't normally nominate the variety," Mr Scott said.
"Traditionally, retail chains advertise grapes as reds, greens or blacks, but some of these proprietary varieties are coming in labelled-bunch bags."
Supermarket giant Woolworths plans to "move away from select white and red grape varieties" from the start of August next year.
A spokesperson for IGA said it sourced produce locally and did not capture overall data.
Coles did not respond to questions.
